Noctua AMD Threadripper Air Cooler Roundup @ [H]

...I don't understand why they keep insisting on using that awful beige and brown color scheme. It matches nothing else in the computer parts industry, and just clashes and looks awful.
Literally the only thing I ever had a problem with when it comes to Noctua coolers. The color scheme is ugly as all fuck. Good to see from this review that performance and sound profiles live up to the Noctua reputation though.
 
In rSiilver Arrow TR4 vs NH-Ui14S you say "If you take the time to do a little fan profile management you can get it quiet, but not as quiet as the Noctua units." I've used Silver Arrow IB-E Extreme (same cooler as Silver Arrow TR4 but without bigger base) and NH-U14S with 2x fans, and D15 with 2x fans. I found ast same fan speed the Silver Arrow's TY-143 fans have near identical sound levels as NF-A15 does. If anything the TY-143 is a dB or 2 quieter .. but as it take 3dB difference for our ears to hear a difference basically same noise level.
 
Just gheto slap that noctua fan on the silver arrow instead of waiting for the Thermalright to come :sneaky: Shoud give an idea.
By the way,with a second fan attached to the cooler,will it interfere with the second ram slot on the right or is it only extending to the first ram slot?
Testing coolers with other than stock fans is usually more hassle than it's worth. Few if any NH-U14 owners would ever buy and use TY-143 fans or SA TR4 owners buy and use NF-A15 1500rpm fans. ;)

2nd fan on front of Silver Arrow w ill clear RAM as long as RAM is not too tall and not leave enough room for 140mm fan between top of RAM and case. ;)
 
Testing coolers with other than stock fans is usually more hassle than it's worth. Few if any NH-U14 owners would ever buy and use TY-143 fans or SA TR4 owners buy and use NF-A15 1500rpm fans. ;)

2nd fan on front of Silver Arrow w ill clear RAM as long as RAM is not too tall and not leave enough room for 140mm fan between top of RAM and case. ;)

Well than,patience.

Still found someone that went through a lot of effort doing this review

http://blog.livedoor.jp/wisteriear/archives/1071922044.html

Strange to see those themp on the 1950x with the silver arrow.But it does cover ram hight with triple fan setup.
 
Well than,patience.

Still found someone that went through a lot of effort doing this review

http://blog.livedoor.jp/wisteriear/archives/1071922044.html

Strange to see those themp on the 1950x with the silver arrow.But it does cover ram hight with triple fan setup.
Decent review.
I see running 2x TY-143B fans at 1300rpm is 2c cooler than 1x @ 1500rpm. I wonder what thep with 2x fans @ 1500rpm would be? Would it be 2c cooler than 1x fan?
Only wish they had ran TY-143 at full speed so we could see what the temps would have been with that much more airflow through Silver Arrow TR4
 
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Kyle, thanks for a very informative review. I am currently running a 1950x cooled by the Noctua U14S with a push/pull config and I'm overclocked at 3.9Ghz. With my intense encoding applications, I at times hit 68C and throttling occurs. I used the IC Diamond and applied using 6 smaller dots and 4 larger ones recommended by Noctua. I would like to shave off at least a couple degrees if possible. My thoughts are switching to the Thermalright Silver Arrow or re-applying the TIM using your method and possibly switching to the Prolimatech PK-1. Out of all these variables, what do you recommend?
 
If I reapplied new TIM, I would use my method and PK-3.
 
Giving an update here. I installed the Silver Arrow TR4 with the Prolimatech PK-3 TIM as outlined by Kyle. It looks like I am experiencing a 2-3 degree drop in temperature from the Noctua U14S. I tried to add a Noctua NF-A15 Chromax that I had on the Noctua cooler but it didn't fit with my Corsair RGB RAM. Idle temp at 26-27C and video encoding 56-61C.
 
Giving an update here. I installed the Silver Arrow TR4 with the Prolimatech PK-3 TIM as outlined by Kyle. It looks like I am experiencing a 2-3 degree drop in temperature from the Noctua U14S. I tried to add a Noctua NF-A15 Chromax that I had on the Noctua cooler but it didn't fit with my Corsair RGB RAM. Idle temp at 26-27C and video encoding 56-61C.
Just a thought, if you are running the included TY-143 at speeds above 1300-1500rpm it is very likely your case is only flowing about half as much cool air to cooler as the 130cfm the Ty-143 moves at full speed. What ends up happening is cooler re-uses it's already heated exhaust air to make up the difference between the 70cfm case fans are supplying and the 130cfm TY-143 is using which raises the air temp into cooler by many degrees .. and with CPU working hard every degree warmer the airflow into cooler is translates into almost exactly the same number of degrees hotter the CPU is.
 
Just a thought, if you are running the included TY-143 at speeds above 1300-1500rpm it is very likely your case is only flowing about half as much cool air to cooler as the 130cfm the Ty-143 moves at full speed. What ends up happening is cooler re-uses it's already heated exhaust air to make up the difference between the 70cfm case fans are supplying and the 130cfm TY-143 is using which raises the air temp into cooler by many degrees .. and with CPU working hard every degree warmer the airflow into cooler is translates into almost exactly the same number of degrees hotter the CPU is.
I just received a few NF-A14 IndustrialPPC 3000 fans. I installed one on the front of the Thermalright Silver Arrow. The others are going on the front of the case for intake fans, replacing the standard Nf-A14 fans. The other industrial fan will be on the back of the case as exhaust. Just from installing the industrial fan on the front of the Silver Arrow has resulted in a 5C temperature drop. I have the Threadripper 1950X overclocked at 4.025Ghz. Idle temps are 27C and 64C with CPU at 100% on all cores. It is definitely a whirlwind of noise from these fans spinning top speed. I will take performance first because I do quite a bit of video encoding using Handbrake.
 
If your case has room for 2x 140mm front intakes, I suggest using 2x NF-A14ippc as front intakes with no rear exhaust and remove PCIe back slot covers to add more rear vent area around GPU for better front to back airflow around GPU. This setup is almost always gives the best front to back flow resulting in low temps and less noise.
 
If your case has room for 2x 140mm front intakes, I suggest using 2x NF-A14ippc as front intakes with no rear exhaust and remove PCIe back slot covers to add more rear vent area around GPU for better front to back airflow around GPU. This setup is almost always gives the best front to back flow resulting in low temps and less noise.
That's a great suggestion. I do have 2 NF-A14ippc 3000 fans on the front as intakes. The Silver Arrow heatsink is a beast and I was thinking that the NF-A14 fan on the back of the case is acting as a bottleneck for airflow. I guess removing this will improve things. Since the PCIe back slot covers are slotted, is the point of them aesthetics or protection of the motherboard and components?

image1-311.jpg
 
That's a great suggestion. I do have 2 NF-A14ippc 3000 fans on the front as intakes. The Silver Arrow heatsink is a beast and I was thinking that the NF-A14 fan on the back of the case is acting as a bottleneck for airflow. I guess removing this will improve things. Since the PCIe back slot covers are slotted, is the point of them aesthetics or protection of the motherboard and components?

View attachment 120353
Nice clean looking build!
The back fan is not doing much if anything. Airflow is simple displacement and with high pressure rated front intakes pushing air into case the air has to leave through other case vents .. all air flowing into case has to also flow out. Having both intake and exhausts fans only increases case airflow the same way it does on a cooler or radiator; by increasing static pressure rating/ability to overcome resistance which give us a little more airflow against resistance.

I suppose if we want to get critical, PCIe slot covers are both aesthetic and protection .. but who sees the back and what woujld they be able to protect motherboard from? ;) Is it worth what little aesthetics and protection they might give to have them blocking way more than half of the opening they are in? Compound this with the turbulence they create in the air that does flow through them and how much that increases airflow resistance and lowering the airflow through them and they are restricting way more than double the airflow that will flow from front to back of case around GPU when they are removed.

The smoother the front to back airflow is the less heated component exhaust air will mix into cool airflow the better components will cool along with less noise being created. Getting cool air to component is key because every degree warmer the air is going into component cooler translates into almost exactly the same number of degrees hotter that component will be at same load and fan speed.
 
Nice clean looking build!
The back fan is not doing much if anything. Airflow is simple displacement and with high pressure rated front intakes pushing air into case the air has to leave through other case vents .. all air flowing into case has to also flow out. Having both intake and exhausts fans only increases case airflow the same way it does on a cooler or radiator; by increasing static pressure rating/ability to overcome resistance which give us a little more airflow against resistance.

I suppose if we want to get critical, PCIe slot covers are both aesthetic and protection .. but who sees the back and what woujld they be able to protect motherboard from? ;) Is it worth what little aesthetics and protection they might give to have them blocking way more than half of the opening they are in? Compound this with the turbulence they create in the air that does flow through them and how much that increases airflow resistance and lowering the airflow through them and they are restricting way more than double the airflow that will flow from front to back of case around GPU when they are removed.

The smoother the front to back airflow is the less heated component exhaust air will mix into cool airflow the better components will cool along with less noise being created. Getting cool air to component is key because every degree warmer the air is going into component cooler translates into almost exactly the same number of degrees hotter that component will be at same load and fan speed.
Makes sense. I have 3 NF-A14 fans on the top of the case for exhaust. I would imagine these fans are beneficial and I should leave them, right? I could add another NF-A14ippc 3000 to the other side of the Silver Arrow heatsink making a total of three fans. Thoughts about this as well? I'm looking to shave another degree or two of the CPU temp. Again, I have a stable OC at 4.025GHz and when encoding with Handbrake, taxing the processor, it runs hot.
 
Makes sense. I have 3 NF-A14 fans on the top of the case for exhaust. I would imagine these fans are beneficial and I should leave them, right? I could add another NF-A14ippc 3000 to the other side of the Silver Arrow heatsink making a total of three fans. Thoughts about this as well? I'm looking to shave another degree or two of the CPU temp. Again, I have a stable OC at 4.025GHz and when encoding with Handbrake, taxing the processor, it runs hot.
We need to be careful to keep smooth airflow and not use too many fans and end up with air blowing everywhere mixing heated with cool and ending up with hotter air going to components. Below is link to a guide to how airflow works and how to optimize it for best temps, including how I monitor air temp into component coolers.
https://www.overclock.net/forum/22319249-post5.html
 
We need to be careful to keep smooth airflow and not use too many fans and end up with air blowing everywhere mixing heated with cool and ending up with hotter air going to components. Below is link to a guide to how airflow works and how to optimize it for best temps, including how I monitor air temp into component coolers.
https://www.overclock.net/forum/22319249-post5.html
Got it. So the exhaust fans on the top are good and I'll leave the heatsink with the 2 fans as is?
 
Got it. So the exhaust fans on the top are good and I'll leave the heatsink with the 2 fans as is?
Top exhaust often draw air up and if the fan drawing air up is in middle or front half of case it's drawing cool air that is coming in the front intakes up and out .. meaning the heated exhaust air coming off of GpU below air below is being drawn up into the cool air going to CPU cooler and we end up with warmer air going to CPU cooler. Hope tht makes sense.
 
Nice clean looking build!
The back fan is not doing much if anything. Airflow is simple displacement and with high pressure rated front intakes pushing air into case the air has to leave through other case vents .. all air flowing into case has to also flow out. Having both intake and exhausts fans only increases case airflow the same way it does on a cooler or radiator; by increasing static pressure rating/ability to overcome resistance which give us a little more airflow against resistance.

I suppose if we want to get critical, PCIe slot covers are both aesthetic and protection .. but who sees the back and what woujld they be able to protect motherboard from? ;) Is it worth what little aesthetics and protection they might give to have them blocking way more than half of the opening they are in? Compound this with the turbulence they create in the air that does flow through them and how much that increases airflow resistance and lowering the airflow through them and they are restricting way more than double the airflow that will flow from front to back of case around GPU when they are removed.

The smoother the front to back airflow is the less heated component exhaust air will mix into cool airflow the better components will cool along with less noise being created. Getting cool air to component is key because every degree warmer the air is going into component cooler translates into almost exactly the same number of degrees hotter that component will be at same load and fan speed.
I was gonna mention that too, the two top fans might not be making any difference or possibly be a detriment to airflow. I also run without the slot covers, ive even put a fan there to exhaust and help pull air from the front fan to the gpu, makes a pretty good difference in temp.

Got it. So the exhaust fans on the top are good and I'll leave the heatsink with the 2 fans as is?
I would try a straight front to back airflow by disconnecting the top fans as they are sucking the fresh air coming from the front out the top, at least the front one is. id disconnect them and play around a bit, see what temps are like.
 
I was gonna mention that too, the two top fans might not be making any difference or possibly be a detriment to airflow. I also run without the slot covers, ive even put a fan there to exhaust and help pull air from the front fan to the gpu, makes a pretty good difference in temp.


I would try a straight front to back airflow by disconnecting the top fans as they are sucking the fresh air coming from the front out the top, at least the front one is. id disconnect them and play around a bit, see what temps are like.
It doesn't seem to make a difference that I can notice with the top exhaust fans running. I'm also concerned about dust in the case so I know it's better to have positive airflow. I have a fan controller in my 5.25" bay so I can control all fan speeds and keep the top exhaust fans spinning slower than the intake fans.
 
It doesn't seem to make a difference that I can notice with the top exhaust fans running. I'm also concerned about dust in the case so I know it's better to have positive airflow. I have a fan controller in my 5.25" bay so I can control all fan speeds and keep the top exhaust fans spinning slower than the intake fans.
What pendragon1 said.

I will add that experimentation is the only way forward. Using a simple low-cost digital indoor/outdoor thermometer or terrarium/aquarium thermometer to monitor airflow temp into coolers completely takes the guesswork out of airflow temps. If you unplug top fans instead of watching component temp to see what it does watch the airflow temp because that is what makes the component temp change.

If you want to know how warm your oven is you don't check the temp inside of the roast you are cooking, you check the oven temp directly. So what's the difference here? Why monitort component temp to see if you rairflowl temp is changing? Look at the airflow temp using a cheap remote sensor thermometer! It gives use the temp quicker and more accurately!
 
It doesn't seem to make a difference that I can notice with the top exhaust fans running. I'm also concerned about dust in the case so I know it's better to have positive airflow. I have a fan controller in my 5.25" bay so I can control all fan speeds and keep the top exhaust fans spinning slower than the intake fans.
dont worry about dust, clean more if you have too, you want airflow.
 
Honestly with good case airflow and decent filters dust usually is not a problem. I build several systems a month and I haven't used any exhaust fans in about 2 years now .. so long ago I can't remember the last build that had any exhaust fans. Like I said before, needing both intake and exhaust fans is like needing push/pull on a cooler or radiator to get lower temps. With good fans setup properly in a case with decent airflow exhaust fans are a waste and might lower temps 1-2c at the expense of more noise. If your temps are so close to critical levels you need to worry about 1-2c you have much bigger problems you need to deal with than positive case pressure and resulting dust.
 
fuck filters you want airflow, clean more if you have too. and an exhaust fan will help air move, you dont want intake only.
 
I am a perspective guy. With that said, I am in awe that I have a Stable 4.025GHz OC being air cooled. No interest in water. As somebody once said...water and computers don't mix.:woot: I have no time for a custom water loop. When I originally built this system, I chose the Enermax Liqtech TR4 360 and had to RMA twice because they are garbage. I don't want to obsess about my temps. Taking the rear exhaust fan off helped a little. I'm keeping the top 3 exhaust fans. At stock speeds, the 1950X rips through video encoding at high quality settings. Overclocked to 4.025GHz makes a noticeable speed improvement but not an earth shattering one.

Getting off topic now... I never would consider AMD and was always an Intel guy. I seem to attract the best situations in my life across all areas. When I was tired of the long encode times with my i7-4770K which I never overclocked because I didn't have a MOBO that was could overclock and didn't even know what overclocking was, I started researching by Googling "What is the fastest Handbrake processor?" Threadripper popped up. I didn't know what a Threadripper was. I thought it was a technique of some kind and I never heard of Ryzen. I thought Ryzen was a new movie. When I realized this was a processor that out performs everything else for half the cost and that I could build a system for around $2,500, pricing out parts, I had to figure out how I would build my own system because I had never done anything like this before. This is where HardOCP and this forum along with PCpartpicker helped immensely. I got sick of paying somebody else to sell me something they built and then when I called for tech support, I was transferred to a person overseas who couldn't speak English clearly and was hired help who didn't know anything about computers and who would Google the answers while we were on the phone. There is a certain satisfaction that comes from looking over at a fast PC that works well and run greats and then realize that I was the one who thought of the build and built it myself.
 
fuck filters you want airflow, clean more if you have too. and an exhaust fan will help air move, you dont want intake only.
That's a strange fettish, but to each their own. :p
I am a perspective guy. With that said, I am in awe that I have a Stable 4.025GHz OC being air cooled. No interest in water. As somebody once said...water and computers don't mix.:woot: I have no time for a custom water loop. When I originally built this system, I chose the Enermax Liqtech TR4 360 and had to RMA twice because they are garbage. I don't want to obsess about my temps. Taking the rear exhaust fan off helped a little. I'm keeping the top 3 exhaust fans. At stock speeds, the 1950X rips through video encoding at high quality settings. Overclocked to 4.025GHz makes a noticeable speed improvement but not an earth shattering one.
While I don't have a Threadripper I agree completely. I had custom H2O for many years for way back when it was so custom we used car heater and compact car engine radiators untill about 10 years ago when heatpipes and tower air coolers started coming out. A good air cooler is as good / usually better and quieter than CLC/AIO, lasts longer, has much less maintenance and costs less. What is not to love?
 
I am ordering parts for a 2950x build in a Fractal Design Define R6. I see these options for coolers:

1. Noctua NH-U14S TR4-SP3
https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-U14S-TR4-SP3-Premium-Grade-Cooler/dp/B074DX2SX7/?tag=hardfocom-20

+ $79.90

2. Cooler Master MAM-D7PN-DWRPS-T1 AMD Wraith Ripper
https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Maste...&qid=1543254804&sr=8-1&keywords=Wraith+Ripper

+ Unavailable

3. Silver Arrow TR4
https://www.amazon.com/Thermalright..._rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=XH9XQDK2RD20ZWPQKV3K

+ $165.88 ($3.99 Shipping) Arrives between Dec 18- Jan 10

4. Enermax LIQTECH TR4 240mm AIO
https://www.amazon.com/Enermax-Exclusive-Threadripper-Technology-ELC-LTTR240-TBP/dp/B074ZLQZG1

+ Available (USED!) Total dumpster fire of quality with awards removed and straight up drama. Enermax seems to have the only AIO's with a proper sized contact area.

I'm at a loss here... [H]orde please rescue me. The obvious answer that I'm being forced into is the Noctua U14S, but I'd really like your feedback. The Noctua fans = much ugly and its performance topped out with stock fans is not where I'd want it to be (Silver Arrow TR4 levels would be awesome).

I'm in the U.S. of A.

Please HALP!
 
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I am ordering parts for a 2950x build in a Fractal Design Define R6. I see these options for coolers:

1. Noctua NH-U14S TR4-SP3
https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-U14S-TR4-SP3-Premium-Grade-Cooler/dp/B074DX2SX7/?tag=hardfocom-20

+ $79.90

2. Cooler Master MAM-D7PN-DWRPS-T1 AMD Wraith Ripper
https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Maste...&qid=1543254804&sr=8-1&keywords=Wraith+Ripper

+ Unavailable

3. Silver Arrow TR4
https://www.amazon.com/Thermalright..._rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=XH9XQDK2RD20ZWPQKV3K

+ $165.88 ($3.99 Shipping) Arrives between Dec 18- Jan 10

4. Enermax LIQTECH TR4 240mm AIO
https://www.amazon.com/Enermax-Exclusive-Threadripper-Technology-ELC-LTTR240-TBP/dp/B074ZLQZG1

+ Available (USED!) Total dumpster fire of quality with awards removed and straight up drama. Enermax seems to have the only AIO's with a proper sized contact area.

I'm at a loss here... [H]orde please rescue me. The obvious answer that I'm being forced into is the Noctua U14S, but I'd really like your feedback. The Noctua fans = much ugly and its performance topped out with stock fans is not where I'd want it to be (Silver Arrow TR4 levels would be awesome).

I'm in the U.S. of A.

Please HALP!
I've tried three out of the four coolers above with a 1950x. I would stay far away from Enermax. I had to RMA two of them for leaks and faulty manufacturing. The NH-U14S is excellent at cooling this processor. I switched over to the Silver Arrow TR4 from the Noctua and I was able to reduce the temp. by 4-5C. If you are not planning to overclock, the Noctua will cool more than enough for you. If you are going to overclock, I would go with the Silver Arrow TR4. I would also add a second fan to the front of the heat sink in addition to the one between the two heat sinks. I actually swapped the Silver Arrow TY-143 orange fan for the Noctua NF-A14 industrialPPC 3000 fan and added this to the front of the heat sink as well. Great cooling performance but loud fans.
 
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I've tried three out of the four coolers above with a 1950x. I would stay far away from Enermax. I had to RMA two of them for leaks and faulty manufacturing. The NH-U14S is excellent at cooling this processor. I switched over to the Silver Arrow TR4 from the Noctua and I was able to reduce the temp. by 4-5C. If you are not planning to overclock, the Noctua will cool more than enough for you. If you are going to overclock, I would go with the Silver Arrow TR4. I would also add a second fan to the front of the heat sink in addition to the one between the two heat sinks. I actually swapped the Silver Arrow TY-143 orange fan for the Noctua NF-A14 industrialPPC 3000 fan and added this to the front of the heat sink as well. Great cooling performance but loud fans.
Was Enermax quieter than Silver Arrow TR4 is with TY-143 or NF-A14 IPPC fans at same CPU temps?
 
Enermax was quietest. Again, I would steer clear of Enermax. Just a fair warning.
Yeah, I'm aware of all the problems Enermax Liqtech TR4 is having. While the specs look good on paper with the problems people have had and are still having I wouldn't touch with a barge pole, but than I wouldn't use and CLC. While there are a couple of AIOs that are not CLC worth considering, they are not enough better than a good air cooled system to be worth the added expense, especially considering they will obviously need need coolant flushed and replaced after about a year of serious cooling just like any other H2O loop does .. and their lower quality components than the much more expensive custom loop components are not going to last as long meaning it's likely components will start failing in a couple years as well .. While water cooling does have it's place I can't afford it any more .. no, that's not really true. I can't justify it any more.
 
Yeah, I'm aware of all the problems Enermax Liqtech TR4 is having. While the specs look good on paper with the problems people have had and are still having I wouldn't touch with a barge pole, but than I wouldn't use and CLC. While there are a couple of AIOs that are not CLC worth considering, they are not enough better than a good air cooled system to be worth the added expense, especially considering they will obviously need need coolant flushed and replaced after about a year of serious cooling just like any other H2O loop does .. and their lower quality components than the much more expensive custom loop components are not going to last as long meaning it's likely components will start failing in a couple years as well .. While water cooling does have it's place I can't afford it any more .. no, that's not really true. I can't justify it any more.
All of that is a hassle in my opinion. Air cooling is the way to go in my humble opinion. The other thing I have found with Threadripper is that overclocking does not make a huge difference regarding performance. This processor is a beast right out of the box. With that said, once overclocked to 3.9 or 4Ghz, anything after that is splitting hairs and I have not noticed any noticable performance gains. I have mine OC'd to 4Ghz. When I encode video with Handbrake, I fire up all the fans to full tilt and leave the room because it sounds like a jet engine. I don't care what people say...If you want to properly cool this processor OC'd with air then you're going to have to put up with loud decibels.
 
All of that is a hassle in my opinion. Air cooling is the way to go in my humble opinion. The other thing I have found with Threadripper is that overclocking does not make a huge difference regarding performance. This processor is a beast right out of the box. With that said, once overclocked to 3.9 or 4Ghz, anything after that is splitting hairs and I have not noticed any noticable performance gains. I have mine OC'd to 4Ghz. When I encode video with Handbrake, I fire up all the fans to full tilt and leave the room because it sounds like a jet engine. I don't care what people say...If you want to properly cool this processor OC'd with air then you're going to have to put up with loud decibels.
I agree with you 100%. Although I do still have one H2O loop in use my other 4 systems are air.
I agree overclocking with most modern CPUs doesn't gain a significant improvement. So what if a extremely CPU intensive function take 35 minutes instead of 30 minutes? Very few of us ever use our CPUs at full load anyway, and if we do it's only on rare occasions.
 
Just put a Noctua NH u14 on my 1920x, idle temps are currently less than 30c, taking my 360mm Enermax AIO apart tomorrow, i'm curious to see what I find.
 
Just put a Noctua NH u14 on my 1920x, idle temps are currently less than 30c, taking my 360mm Enermax AIO apart tomorrow, i'm curious to see what I find.

I look forward to your results. Photos please.

I picked up a be quiet Dark Rock Pro TR4 last month when I was in Italy, but haven't installed it yet. It's huge, but less wide than the NH-U14S. I'm not really interested in quietness so I want to replace the be quiet fans with better ones. I wish Noctua sold 140 mm versions of the NF-A12x25 (and the 15 mm thick one too). None of the wire fan clips I have look like they'll work with the fans I have so I may have to resort to zip-ties (tie-wraps). Eventually, I'll present some cooling results comparing the 2 setups. Maybe with their original fans and similar fans.
 
Well its a good thing I like Earth tones & Owls. I will never buy another cooler that isn't a Noctua. My D-15 has been good to me thus far. Thanks for the review.
 
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