LG 43UD79 Information?

I have found this values works great for me:
Picture Mode Custom
Brightness at 55%
Contrast at 70%
Sharpness at 50% (at 100% oversharpened certain fonts)
Super Resolution off
DFC OFF
Response Time Normal
Black stabilizer at 70% (I like detail in the dark scenes)
Gamma mode 4
Color Temp Custom
Red 50
Green 32
Blue 20

But Even more important for me was to switch the color control in the nvidia control panel to nvidia settings, in the default configuration I suffered from extreme black crush and it looked horrible.
Also important is to run cleartype settings to correct the halo in the fonts due to the GBR Subpixel.
After all that I am really happy with the monitor, it is miles ahead of a samsung 4k tv as a pure monitor.

Thank you for sharing. Is non-default black stabilizer advised outside of games? Also, why would you not set the response time to fast? I frankly don't understand why that's an option at all, why isn't it just locked at fast out of the factory?

Your color settings aren't calibrated for perfect accuracy, but if you like that balance, you should use what you like.

I agree that ClearType recalibration is needed, I did it a few times until I found a good balance.

Also, I found a good compromise between increasing the Windows scaling to 125% which I really did not want to do, and making text bigger. I increased global scaling in Chrome to 125%. So web pages are bigger, but otherwise everything is still scaled at 100%. Try it, it definitely makes typing and reading easier, and also subpixel rendering of larger text looks much better.
 
I think that the black stabilizer settings is usefull in normal desktop use also, It brings more detail to anything that has greyscale on it.
The color calibration is not perfect, it is calibrated to match a second screen (sony tv) set to warm (the warm setting in this sony is too cold).
In regard to the response time I think it is a confusing name, In does not have any impact in latency, it is for the overdrive value of pixel response. I leave it at normal because i dont see any diference to the fast setting, and in the past lg monitors the fast settings creates haloing or overdrive shadows in scrolling text.
I will set it to fast and try it for a while.
 
So I just got this monitor delivered last week. Installed the LG control software, and went to update the firmware but it says that I am up to date already. What firmware version were you guys installing? Want to check and make sure that I have the latest.
 
anyone else having the issue where it blacks out for a second? I use this for work and it happens every few hours. Debating on returning it because of this - very distracting when it happens.
 
So I just got this monitor delivered last week. Installed the LG control software, and went to update the firmware but it says that I am up to date already. What firmware version were you guys installing? Want to check and make sure that I have the latest.

Same thing here, I installed OnScreen control, connected the monitor to my PC via USB, and it told me it was up to date. I did the line test with my cell phone camera to measure the PWM frequency, and while I don't know the shutter speed, the lines are very fine so I think it is indeed running the latest firmware with 480Hz PWM.

anyone else having the issue where it blacks out for a second? I use this for work and it happens every few hours. Debating on returning it because of this - very distracting when it happens.

I've had the monitor for about a week now and it happened for the first time today. Quite startling and annoying, I hope it doesn't start happening frequently. :( When the monitor came back online I got the message that says to use the included cable, which I get every time I turn it on, and I think a few times for no reason just during normal usage (or maybe I changed a setting, not sure). I am using the included DP cable, so I don't know why I'm getting the message. I can choose the option not to get the message again, but I kind of want to see if it'll disappear on its own in the future after a firmware update or if I change some setting.

I have my 43UD79-B since a few days. All in all I am very satisfied. But I have a strange issue.

In very rare cases I can observe some horizontal pixel errors. Have a look at the following photo:

I figured out that these errors have something to do with the overdrive (response time) setting. I can observe those errors for fast, normal and slow setting. If I chose the off setting, such errors does not appear.

If I look at the screenshot (in Screenshot.zip) in full-screen the error is present. Have any owner the same issues or is my display faulty?

I've gotten that too a few times, usually on the left side of the monitor, those green dots. It's just artefacting, if I swipe a window over it or change the image in any way it disappears. I guess it is tied to the response time setting. I had it on fast and now have it on normal, I think on normal it's happened less, but I've only seen it a few times so I'm not sure. If it becomes annoying, I will turn off that setting like you did.


Overall, I am experiencing the same issues as other people. I'm still very happy with the monitor, but it does have a few bugs apparently. After that first random shut down, I wasn't thrilled. I hope it doesn't happen again, but odds are it will. I wonder if it's an issue with the built-in PSU, maybe it depends on how clean the power you're feeding it is.

And the other thing I've noticed, though this isn't a bug, is that this monitor has a lot of IPS glow. I guess that's standard for IPS displays. I love the colors but watching a movie with the lights off, the black bars are quite glowy. It's not backlight bleed, there isn't any of that, it's just uniform IPS glow.
 
I've gotten that too a few times, usually on the left side of the monitor, those green dots. It's just artefacting, if I swipe a window over it or change the image in any way it disappears. I guess it is tied to the response time setting. I had it on fast and now have it on normal, I think on normal it's happened less, but I've only seen it a few times so I'm not sure. If it becomes annoying, I will turn off that setting like you did.


Overall, I am experiencing the same issues as other people. I'm still very happy with the monitor, but it does have a few bugs apparently. After that first random shut down, I wasn't thrilled. I hope it doesn't happen again, but odds are it will. I wonder if it's an issue with the built-in PSU, maybe it depends on how clean the power you're feeding it is.

.

I have three computers (two laptops and one desktop) connected and have never experienced a 'shut down'. However, I only got one message that I should use supplied cable and only when I powered the monitor on and off multiple times (did not know if it was on or off). I use three HDMI cables, including one with DP to HDMI adapter, with response time set to either Normal or Slow. Maybe it's a DP port issue?
 
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I found this site that gives screen measurements for different screen ratios and given, single, dimension: http://screen-size.info/
Maybe someone will find it interesting...

For example, I used to have 1080p laptop with 17.3" screen. I think that was the highest dpi that I would go for. Therefore my perfect 4k monitor would be four 17.3" screens:

since 1080p 17.3" screen width=15.1"
therefore 4k screen width =30.2"
which gives diagonal of 34.6" So it appears that best monitor size for me would be 34-36".

One aspect that is not often mentioned is screen height. 43" LG monitor is 25" tall while my eye level is 17" therefore 1/4 of the monitor causes strain on eyes (plus there's noticeable darkening of bottom of the screen if my eye level is at the top portion of the monitor due to viewing angle). 34.6" monitor, on the other hand is 17" tall which would be perfect :)
 
anyone else having the issue where it blacks out for a second? I use this for work and it happens every few hours. Debating on returning it because of this - very distracting when it happens.

I get this once or twice a day; recently it kept blanking out for a second every few minutes and I reseated the HDMI connector. It still blanks out at least once a day so I feel like it may be the monitor's fault (not video card).
 
I get this once or twice a day; recently it kept blanking out for a second every few minutes and I reseated the HDMI connector. It still blanks out at least once a day so I feel like it may be the monitor's fault (not video card).
I haven't experienced blinking, though, I use DisplayPort.
 
How is the screen burn-in with this one? Curious if it is visible especially at max brightness
There is none, as far as my panel is concerned... Solid 8 hours of use a day during 2 weeks and no burning to report, but my brightness is kept between 55% and 75%.
 
There is none, as far as my panel is concerned... Solid 8 hours of use a day during 2 weeks and no burning to report, but my brightness is kept between 55% and 75%.

Thank you! That sounds pretty awesome.

Is max light enough to be used during full blown daytime if the room is very well-lit?

How do you feel about the colors? I'm thinking of replacing my 2515H, which has really good colors, a bit afraid of being disappointed by the color performance. I think LG made the display panel of 2515H as well though
 
Thank you! That sounds pretty awesome.

Is max light enough to be used during full blown daytime if the room is very well-lit?

How do you feel about the colors? I'm thinking of replacing my 2515H, which has really good colors, a bit afraid of being disappointed by the color performance. I think LG made the display panel of 2515H as well though

It has vibrant colors and ok horizontal viewing angle. Vertical viewing angle is not so great (top and bottom are dimmer when you sit 2ft away which is compounding issue below ). Screen is quite bright and I use it in 'dark room 1' picture setting to make it darker. There's no screen burn-in.

The biggest issue I have is that the screen is not uniform and white varies from (faint) yellow- gray- pink visible only with white background windows and winter photos. LG tech support claims that's normal.

Edit: I have 43MU79 model.
 
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It is plenty bright enough for daytime viewing. I am in the mediterranean and it is bright here.
The colors are great, a little undersaturaded for my taste but it´s an easy fix. I have been incredibly lucky with my unit and the backlight bleed is non existent and white and grey uniformity are much better than in my latter lg 34um95. The only thing that let the monitor down slighty is the contrast ratio, it is lower than some premium ips units, such as the 34um95, but good enough.
 
It is plenty bright enough for daytime viewing. I am in the mediterranean and it is bright here.
The colors are great, a little undersaturaded for my taste but it´s an easy fix. I have been incredibly lucky with my unit and the backlight bleed is non existent and white and grey uniformity are much better than in my latter lg 34um95. The only thing that let the monitor down slighty is the contrast ratio, it is lower than some premium ips units, such as the 34um95, but good enough.

Thank you for your answer!

I'm from Romania, and it can get extremely bright in here, enogugh for me to keep my current 2515H on max brightness all day long.

Lower contrast is something a bit bothersome, but something that is widescreen won't work so as well as something that is 16:9 for 16:9 content, so I think that sticking to anything 16:9 is better for creating and editing 16:9 content.

It has vibrant colors and ok horizontal viewing angle. Vertical viewing angle is not so great (top and bottom are dimmer when you sit 2ft away which is compounding issue below ). Screen is quite bright and I use it in 'dark room 1' picture setting to make it darker. There's no screen burn-in.

The biggest issue I have is that the screen is not uniform and white varies from (faint) yellow- gray- pink visible only with white background windows and winter photos. LG tech support claims that's normal.

Edit: I have 43MU79 model.

Thank you for your answer!

This concerns me a little as I am doing a lot of professional photo work, and I require colors as accurate as possible.

BTW, I've been looking at 43" LG TVs in some shops in Bucharest, and most of them had excellent brightness and color saturation / vibrancy, which made me wonder if they used the same, or a similar panel in this display. This same panel is also used in DELL 4317Q monitor which seemngly is a bit dark ex-factory, but which can be fixed.
 
brightness has more to do with the backlight than the lcd panel itself. They are two separate parts, and lcd panels of this size are often sold without a backlight.
 
Thank you for your answer!

I'm from Romania, and it can get extremely bright in here, enogugh for me to keep my current 2515H on max brightness all day long.

Lower contrast is something a bit bothersome, but something that is widescreen won't work so as well as something that is 16:9 for 16:9 content, so I think that sticking to anything 16:9 is better for creating and editing 16:9 content.



Thank you for your answer!

This concerns me a little as I am doing a lot of professional photo work, and I require colors as accurate as possible.

BTW, I've been looking at 43" LG TVs in some shops in Bucharest, and most of them had excellent brightness and color saturation / vibrancy, which made me wonder if they used the same, or a similar panel in this display. This same panel is also used in DELL 4317Q monitor which seemngly is a bit dark ex-factory, but which can be fixed.
Hungarian here, the monitor's brightness is sufficient. I have huge windows in my room where I use it. I don't know whether the summer will change my mind but so far the brightness level I'm using (54%) is okay.
 
Same thing here, I installed OnScreen control, connected the monitor to my PC via USB, and it told me it was up to date. I did the line test with my cell phone camera to measure the PWM frequency, and while I don't know the shutter speed, the lines are very fine so I think it is indeed running the latest firmware with 480Hz PWM.
How did you connect the monitor to the PC via USB? What kind of cable did you use? Which USB port on the moniter?
I bought a USB 3.0a to USB 3.0a cable and plugged one end into the monitor, and the other into my computer.
When I hit "Run" on the monitor software update (in Onscreen Control) - it tells my to connect the monitor to PC via USB and try again.
Thanks
 
How did you connect the monitor to the PC via USB? What kind of cable did you use? Which USB port on the moniter?
I bought a USB 3.0a to USB 3.0a cable and plugged one end into the monitor, and the other into my computer.
When I hit "Run" on the monitor software update (in Onscreen Control) - it tells my to connect the monitor to PC via USB and try again.
Thanks
You are going to need a USB-C cable. First I did the same thing as you, but the regular USB 3 ports on the monitor for some reason are not for firmware upgrading.
 
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I have three computers (two laptops and one desktop) connected and have never experienced a 'shut down'. However, I only got one message that I should use supplied cable and only when I powered the monitor on and off multiple times (did not know if it was on or off). I use three HDMI cables, including one with DP to HDMI adapter, with response time set to either Normal or Slow. Maybe it's a DP port issue?

You mean with the DP port on my graphics card? I have a 1070, used to have an HDMI monitor, first time I've even used that DP port. It's all connected properly, don't see how that could be an issue. I'm starting to think the message to use the supplied cable comes on every time you power on the monitor no matter what as just a general reminder... That's why you have the option not to show it anymore. Otherwise I can't explain why I get it every time. I have yet to experience another shut down, so in 2 weeks of use so far it's still just the one time.

How did you connect the monitor to the PC via USB? What kind of cable did you use? Which USB port on the moniter?
I bought a USB 3.0a to USB 3.0a cable and plugged one end into the monitor, and the other into my computer.
When I hit "Run" on the monitor software update (in Onscreen Control) - it tells my to connect the monitor to PC via USB and try again.
Thanks

I used a USB Type-C cable from my phone to plug into the monitor and then used the included Type-A to Type-C adapter to plug the other end into my motherboard. That's what you need as ruc0la said.


Regarding brightness/color issues -- you definitely need to calibrate the colors, it's way too cold by default. And as far as brightness, I only use 2 settings - 50% by default and then 60% if I am watching a movie or playing a game. But even 50% is plenty for a sunlit room. Anything over 60% is way too bright for me for sitting 2 ft away. I agree that the contrast isn't amazing, especially with the IPS glow. Movies don't look amazing for that reason, but good enough. 4K movies feel like you have an IMAX on your desk, you can really appreciate the extra resolution at this size/distance. I got a Roku, so I can watch Netflix and Amazon Prime Video in 4K, otherwise they only work at 1080p on the Windows clients. Excellent use of the additional HDMI ports and PIP capability, I'm quite happy with it.

HDR would have been amazing, but then the monitor would have cost an extra $1000 probably. That is the holy grail for me, this monitor with HDR and 120Hz+G-Sync. And OLED with no image retention. :D Maybe in 2 years that will exist and I will upgrade.
 
You mean with the DP port on my graphics card? I have a 1070, used to have an HDMI monitor, first time I've even used that DP port. It's all connected properly, don't see how that could be an issue. I'm starting to think the message to use the supplied cable comes on every time you power on the monitor no matter what as just a general reminder... That's why you have the option not to show it anymore. Otherwise I can't explain why I get it every time. I have yet to experience another shut down, so in 2 weeks of use so far it's still just the one time.



I used a USB Type-C cable from my phone to plug into the monitor and then used the included Type-A to Type-C adapter to plug the other end into my motherboard. That's what you need as ruc0la said.


Regarding brightness/color issues -- you definitely need to calibrate the colors, it's way too cold by default. And as far as brightness, I only use 2 settings - 50% by default and then 60% if I am watching a movie or playing a game. But even 50% is plenty for a sunlit room. Anything over 60% is way too bright for me for sitting 2 ft away. I agree that the contrast isn't amazing, especially with the IPS glow. Movies don't look amazing for that reason, but good enough. 4K movies feel like you have an IMAX on your desk, you can really appreciate the extra resolution at this size/distance. I got a Roku, so I can watch Netflix and Amazon Prime Video in 4K, otherwise they only work at 1080p on the Windows clients. Excellent use of the additional HDMI ports and PIP capability, I'm quite happy with it.

HDR would have been amazing, but then the monitor would have cost an extra $1000 probably. That is the holy grail for me, this monitor with HDR and 120Hz+G-Sync. And OLED with no image retention. :D Maybe in 2 years that will exist and I will upgrade.

Really really sad to hear that contrast and color isn't the best. I don't know how noticeable this is, but I really hope it isn't.

As for OLED without image retention, that won't be possible as long as OLED has the O part in it , which stands for Organic. Even the best high-end displays with OLED will decay sooner or later, and opposed to most IPS image retention, OLED burn-in is not something you can fix as it means that the cells within the organic part have died. I love how OLED looks and would jump on an OLED display if it didn't had those problems, but right now the only solution that I can foresee for the future is if they made the screens really large so the degradation would happen slower.
 
Really really sad to hear that contrast and color isn't the best. I don't know how noticeable this is, but I really hope it isn't.

As for OLED without image retention, that won't be possible as long as OLED has the O part in it , which stands for Organic. Even the best high-end displays with OLED will decay sooner or later, and opposed to most IPS image retention, OLED burn-in is not something you can fix as it means that the cells within the organic part have died. I love how OLED looks and would jump on an OLED display if it didn't had those problems, but right now the only solution that I can foresee for the future is if they made the screens really large so the degradation would happen slower.

The contrast isn't great, but it's good enough. The colors are actually very vibrant, it just needs calibration.

There are no cells in OLED displays haha, it's just an organic compound, like plastic. I think it's possible to mitigate the image retention issue to the point where it's a non-issue, but I'm not sure. I hope it is, they've made a lot of progress already compared to early displays. Otherwise, any amount of image retention would be a deal breaker to a heavy desktop user, I think the main reason we haven't seen them on PC monitors yet. There are also software fixes, like move static images a few pixels over every couple of hours. I think eventually the problem will have to be solved as the fundamental technology is superior in every way to LCD. But I don't want to digress from topic.
 
The contrast isn't great, but it's good enough. The colors are actually very vibrant, it just needs calibration.

There are no cells in OLED displays haha, it's just an organic compound, like plastic. I think it's possible to mitigate the image retention issue to the point where it's a non-issue, but I'm not sure. I hope it is, they've made a lot of progress already compared to early displays. Otherwise, any amount of image retention would be a deal breaker to a heavy desktop user, I think the main reason we haven't seen them on PC monitors yet. There are also software fixes, like move static images a few pixels over every couple of hours. I think eventually the problem will have to be solved as the fundamental technology is superior in every way to LCD. But I don't want to digress from topic.

I am really afraid of this statement - not great but good enough... Anxiously awaiting to see how it looks in person
 
Well sometimes 'good enough' can be pretty damn good. Its all in how you look at it.
 
Well sometimes 'good enough' can be pretty damn good. Its all in how you look at it.

Sadly, it seems that I have been asking about the wrong panel. After my latest discovery, it looks like what I got was in fact Dell P4317Q, which has a different panel....
 
Sadly, it seems that I have been asking about the wrong panel. After my latest discovery, it looks like what I got was in fact Dell P4317Q, which has a different panel....

Interestingly P4317Q GTG is 8ms which is the same as 43MU79. We were wondering if UD and MU have different panels - how do you know that the one in Dell monitor is different?

I looked at Dell's reviews and found this one which seems to match my experience (only that bottom discoloration on my LG43MU79 is much more pronounced and not uniform). From BHphoto site:

First, I am a pro wedding photographer.. just upgraded my system from an iMac 27 and Apple 27 display combo to a new high power PC, and needed a new monitor. I wanted to do away with having two screens on my desk.. so, I got this. Overall I like this monitor, but I am un-sure if I am going to keep it, exchange it, or try a different brand altogether... I have this calibrated with the i1 Pro from X-rite and it works well. I was able to match the Apple display pretty close, and more importantly just match that of phone displays / web etc.. as this is where 100% of my customers are :) So, in that sense its all good. However.. I do have some *slight* color shifting within the panel itself. The lower part seems just a hair on the pink hue side of things, vs. the top has a little more of a green shift.
 
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I got P4317Q

Birghtness is enough at 100%

Contrast is really good

No glow

Screen burn in doesn't seem an issue.

Colors are out of this world good.

Works well for photo editing.

This is a really solid monitor.
 
So, more testing with Dell 4317Q Re v A02. The size of this monitor will make your light bulb reflect into it regardless what you do. That is a given. But, besides that and maybe burn-in, which is temporary and which only happens at times, everything else is quite nice.

There is no calibration needed, and the gamma curves are almost ideal, although you need to play with the RGB settings

Ghosting - some of it, but meh, I can play games in freaking 43"!!!
 
I picked up this monitor last week on a cyber week deal from BH photo (43ud79-B) for $599 no tax no shipping. Showed up perfect condition no issues here. I've read through this thread and did some of your suggested calibrations (thanks guys). Last I saw someone had the brightness set at 20. Seems a little low for my liking, but if this is what gets the correct colors thats fine with me.

Main reason I'm posting though. The screen on this when attached by my lightning to DisplayPort cable (Mid 2015 MBP maxed out specs) seems to turn off periodically. Shuts off for about 2-3 second then flips back on. Its not in any consistent manor, seems to do it may once or twice an hour on average. I haven't had a single issue with my PS4 pro connecting via provided HMDI @4k 60hz. But for whatever reason the connection with the MacBook does this. I assume its a cabling issue, but was wondering if anyone else had this issue? Its a minor annoyance, certainly not worthy of replacing the monitor, but extra input from you guys would be appreciated.

Thanks!
 
I picked up this monitor last week on a cyber week deal from BH photo (43ud79-B) for $599 no tax no shipping. Showed up perfect condition no issues here. I've read through this thread and did some of your suggested calibrations (thanks guys). Last I saw someone had the brightness set at 20. Seems a little low for my liking, but if this is what gets the correct colors thats fine with me.

Main reason I'm posting though. The screen on this when attached by my lightning to DisplayPort cable (Mid 2015 MBP maxed out specs) seems to turn off periodically. Shuts off for about 2-3 second then flips back on. Its not in any consistent manor, seems to do it may once or twice an hour on average. I haven't had a single issue with my PS4 pro connecting via provided HMDI @4k 60hz. But for whatever reason the connection with the MacBook does this. I assume its a cabling issue, but was wondering if anyone else had this issue? Its a minor annoyance, certainly not worthy of replacing the monitor, but extra input from you guys would be appreciated.

Thanks!

What is correct colors?

Keep your brightness as high as you feel like, don't sacrifice it because somebody told you to.

Low brightness kills your eyes really quick, especially if it is not bright enough for your room. I keep a Dell 4317Q at 100% brightness in a completely dark room and it is amazing. No eye strain, no nothing. Just the perfect monitor.
 
Copied from the DELL P4317Q thread - please read if you're considering it.

Okay.

I received this one right now - Dell P4317Q

I'm on Revision A02.

Let's begin with the Pros



Pros:

+ Nice AG coating, not too hard, nor too light, it is perfect to make it clear and vivid, yet to block ambient light. Really really good quality as well, no patterns, no muddiness, this is ideal.

+ Really good build quality

+ Amazing brightness! I keep it on 100% and it looks amazing! It has enough to work in a room where an entire wall is made of glass

+ Color calibration was easy peasy, in fact you can reach an almost perfect calibration playing with its R-G-B settings from the menu

+ Gamma curves are not spot at 2.2, but very very close on this sample

+ Way less IPS glow than most displays on market

+ Response time good enough for casual gaming. I am not a gamer, but I like a quick display. This is quick enough for me. It can climb to 80 Hz (I read its EDID), but I will not overclock it.

+ Colors look profesinally adequate, bright, vibrant, impressive (nothing like BDM4350 which was dim and washed out, although it was using a similar display?!)

+ You can enjoy immersive content on this

+ Freaking 4K with no need for scaling! You have no idea how refreshing this is for me and for my eyes!

+ Really nice and clear image

+ Got used to it and using it naturally after merely 1 hour of owning it, just like any other DELL, an excellent device that just works

+ Everything works on the USB ports and the Displayports, everything is just plug and play.

+ No weird artifacts, no flickering, no issues with the image in this aspect



Now the cons:

Cons:

- Minor screen burn in, but it is temporary. Just don't keep very contrasting elements for long, for example black and white patterns. Grays don't burn in. It washes after watching some videos.

- Color variation over a large surface - this might be the glow or relfection for me, but I seem to notice that the center is ever a bit less pinkish on blue hues. Again, I think it is a glow effect due to its size, but it should be noted this exists.

- The alien ghosting test shows a very very minimal ghosting trail, but only on gray color, not one bit on black or white. Excellent response, on par with most gaming displays , yet as tech advances, that will probably be changed as well

- Mine has a little point that I can't figure out if it is dust on the display or a problematic pixel . No idea.

- Blurry edges that are shadowed by the physical edges. Underscan does not work (of course it doesn't, who would ever believe it does). Underscan changes the whole resolution making everything extremely blurry, so you either get used to the shadow edges or not get this one . I can't even notice that anymore, but YMMV.



Bottom:

This is an underconsidered monitor. It can easily be calibrated, it can easily be made to look and work awesome. The best 43" I tested, by far. This makes BDM4350 look and feel like a Joke. This is Dell construction and quality here, no joking, no tricks. If you want to go 43", it is either this or nothing. The brightness is the most important element, a screen this size needs a LOT of brightness to feel natural and to feel good. This has it. Please make a conscious purchase.
 
Same thing here, I installed OnScreen control, connected the monitor to my PC via USB, and it told me it was up to date. I did the line test with my cell phone camera to measure the PWM frequency, and while I don't know the shutter speed, the lines are very fine so I think it is indeed running the latest firmware with 480Hz PWM.

Yeah makes me believe that 3.20, 1.35 is the newest firmware. Now I just have to decide If I want to keep the monitor. 43" is a bit large, especially when I flip my 27" WQHDs up vertically next to it.. so much screen.
 
What is correct colors?

Keep your brightness as high as you feel like, don't sacrifice it because somebody told you to.

Low brightness kills your eyes really quick, especially if it is not bright enough for your room. I keep a Dell 4317Q at 100% brightness in a completely dark room and it is amazing. No eye strain, no nothing. Just the perfect monitor.

Well. I'm no expert on this, but I'm just trying to get the coloring as close to accurate as possible. Bright seems to effect this, at least from my sight. I have been taking your advise and using the monitor at full brightness and I will say that it is much easier on my eyes than the lower setting was.

I did, btw, look into the Dell monitor you speak of, but for an extra $150 at the time I was looking ($750 as opposed to $600), I couldn't find any reason to go that route. Lack of HDMI 2.0, USB-C, and AH-IPS for MORE money didn't make a bit of sense to me when buying.
 
What is correct colors?

Keep your brightness as high as you feel like, don't sacrifice it because somebody told you to.

Low brightness kills your eyes really quick, especially if it is not bright enough for your room. I keep a Dell 4317Q at 100% brightness in a completely dark room and it is amazing. No eye strain, no nothing. Just the perfect monitor.
Can you elaborate why 100% brightness in a dark room is better for your eyes? I use 54% brightness along with flux for coding.
 
Well. I'm no expert on this, but I'm just trying to get the coloring as close to accurate as possible. Bright seems to effect this, at least from my sight. I have been taking your advise and using the monitor at full brightness and I will say that it is much easier on my eyes than the lower setting was.

I did, btw, look into the Dell monitor you speak of, but for an extra $150 at the time I was looking ($750 as opposed to $600), I couldn't find any reason to go that route. Lack of HDMI 2.0, USB-C, and AH-IPS for MORE money didn't make a bit of sense to me when buying.

Color accuracy depends on:

- Reference

- What you're trying to do

- Why you want it.

Basically, if you want to just emulate photos as they'll be on paper, none of those displays (43" ones) won't be able to do that.

IF you want to emulate how most users will see your content, then you don't need to calibrate - over 90% of users have non calibrated, blue tinted screens with max brightness.

Also, accurate colors is a very mistakenly used term since all eyes see colors a bit differently. Perfect calibration tries to emulate normal paper viewing conditions, but this is a display, no need to do your best to emulate paper, just try to make things look natural.

As for P4317Q - its imports are worse than LG's, but its max brightness and contrast is better - more of a pick your poison thing. This has temporary burn in and I need a screen saver after 1 minute of idle to clean that up. The bright side - I am admiring 100% bgithness and full of color wallpapers when that kicks in, so my actual experience is pretty nice. The burn-in is temporary, so there's that as well.

As always, do what your body tells you - don't let some standard 200 cd/m2 idea of color reproduction seem good. That is just a paper standard which IMHO should be ignored unless you're editing material that is to be printed.

Can you elaborate why 100% brightness in a dark room is better for your eyes? I use 54% brightness along with flux for coding.

flux is a hoax.

Let's begin with how light affects the eyes.

The larger a surface is, the more light it needs for your eyes for proper focus. Large screens require lots of light for your eyes to view it comfortably.

Small sources of light, on the other hand, are awful for your eyes. A phone on max brightness isn't the same thing. This is all connected to why you should never watch an eclipse dead-on. Eclipses darken the sky, which makes your pupil grow in size. Then, the sun still emits light, from a single point, but still quite strong. Thus burns the eye because the pupil was already in its enlarged size.

On the other hand, a smaller screen at max brightness is worse for your eyes than a large one - if your eyes focus at this relative distance, they need the most light they can get to keep proper focus, otherwise you have a large and dim screen that requires eye strain to see - like Philips BDM4350 which is too dim.

As for why flux is a hoax - it doesn't do anything good. I code a lot, and I am using gray background with grey + green text. Why would I ever want to see that horrible mess that flux makes - it is not better for your eyes since all those new displays have white LED light, and not blue, and it doesn't improve anything. Only makes everything ugly. Might also strain the monitor itself.

Best brightness is the brightness you feel comfortable with though - my eyes require more light because of my room and viewing distance. If yours require less, go with what your body tells you, but don't hold back just because some internet troll told you that high brightness is bad for your eyes. Reading books causes eye damage because they are not bright and because they force the eye. The more light the eye gets, the less strain - people using monitors and electronic screens don't develop eye damage like people reading books do because those panels are lit.
 
Color accuracy depends on:

- Reference

- What you're trying to do

- Why you want it.

Basically, if you want to just emulate photos as they'll be on paper, none of those displays (43" ones) won't be able to do that.

IF you want to emulate how most users will see your content, then you don't need to calibrate - over 90% of users have non calibrated, blue tinted screens with max brightness.

Also, accurate colors is a very mistakenly used term since all eyes see colors a bit differently. Perfect calibration tries to emulate normal paper viewing conditions, but this is a display, no need to do your best to emulate paper, just try to make things look natural.

As for P4317Q - its imports are worse than LG's, but its max brightness and contrast is better - more of a pick your poison thing. This has temporary burn in and I need a screen saver after 1 minute of idle to clean that up. The bright side - I am admiring 100% bgithness and full of color wallpapers when that kicks in, so my actual experience is pretty nice. The burn-in is temporary, so there's that as well.

As always, do what your body tells you - don't let some standard 200 cd/m2 idea of color reproduction seem good. That is just a paper standard which IMHO should be ignored unless you're editing material that is to be printed.



flux is a hoax.

Let's begin with how light affects the eyes.

The larger a surface is, the more light it needs for your eyes for proper focus. Large screens require lots of light for your eyes to view it comfortably.

Small sources of light, on the other hand, are awful for your eyes. A phone on max brightness isn't the same thing. This is all connected to why you should never watch an eclipse dead-on. Eclipses darken the sky, which makes your pupil grow in size. Then, the sun still emits light, from a single point, but still quite strong. Thus burns the eye because the pupil was already in its enlarged size.

On the other hand, a smaller screen at max brightness is worse for your eyes than a large one - if your eyes focus at this relative distance, they need the most light they can get to keep proper focus, otherwise you have a large and dim screen that requires eye strain to see - like Philips BDM4350 which is too dim.

As for why flux is a hoax - it doesn't do anything good. I code a lot, and I am using gray background with grey + green text. Why would I ever want to see that horrible mess that flux makes - it is not better for your eyes since all those new displays have white LED light, and not blue, and it doesn't improve anything. Only makes everything ugly. Might also strain the monitor itself.

Best brightness is the brightness you feel comfortable with though - my eyes require more light because of my room and viewing distance. If yours require less, go with what your body tells you, but don't hold back just because some internet troll told you that high brightness is bad for your eyes. Reading books causes eye damage because they are not bright and because they force the eye. The more light the eye gets, the less strain - people using monitors and electronic screens don't develop eye damage like people reading books do because those panels are lit.

Thanks for the detailed response. I did a quick research, and according to this vid, flux does make a difference:


The emitted blue light is significantly less if flux is enabled. I happened to know that certain blue shades make us more vigilant which can lead to sleep deprivation by not letting you fall asleep quickly.

How can it strain the monitor? Just out of curiosity. I agree with the book part of your post.
 
Thanks for the detailed response. I did a quick research, and according to this vid, flux does make a difference:


The emitted blue light is significantly less if flux is enabled. I happened to know that certain blue shades make us more vigilant which can lead to sleep deprivation by not letting you fall asleep quickly.

How can it strain the monitor? Just out of curiosity. I agree with the book part of your post.


The monitor isn't supposed to emit a glowy red image at all times, this can lead to some electron migration over a long period of time. This would be worse with something like full brightness active though, and shouldn't be an issue for most users. might leave a pink / orange tint to it over time, especially with pinkish content that is static.

As for flux, it used to make a difference with older monitors that actually had blue light.

You aren't as sensitive to blue color, but to pure blue light.

If you were sensitive to blue color, then rooms that had blue paint would be hard to sleep in, which isn't exactly the case as many homes have their walls painted in blue.

Basically, some older TN monitors had their light emitting part blue, so any color they emitted was actually blue in realiy, which made the issue pretty bad. Red still was made from blue light passed through a red cell, but the light itself was blue. The issue was not with all colors, but with white, which was blue in fact. This is what led to all white, black and gray to be blue and you were getting a lot of blue with those.

Most recent displays, especially after a 300$ price point, are W-LED, which is a white led, which doesn't do the same thing the older blue light ones did. White LEDs emit white light, that is all. So white is white, black is black, gray is gray, you're only getting blue light, if you are watching blue things. And blue color isn't necessarily bad for sleeping, strong blue light is.

To return to the point, you shouldn't get any advantage from flux, only worse image, worse image quality, worse colors, makes your expensive monitor just inaccurate, discomfort (it si placebo if you feel you're getting comfort from it. their marketing makes you feel that way, you might actually feel less comfort that way. Like my Dell P4317Q, which gets burn-in if displaying something for too long, but which doesn't get it if images are changing, your eyes prefer not to stare at anything for too long. Red is part of those things, if everything you see is red, it might affect your perception of reality, making you feel slightly nervous, sleepy, dizzy and even anxious, depending on your personal experience). My point is that flux is not exactly bad for Blue-Light monitors, it really made them better, but for white light is unnecessary and doesn't do anything good. You might as well theme your windows in red if you wanted less light or less blue light.

I sleep perfectly at night, and I'm using my monitor at 100% brightness, no flux or such, right before I go to sleep.
 
Oh, I just watched that video.

1. Flux lowers the temperature of the color.

2. That video only shows how the reflexion of the light from a pair of glasses is seen on a wooden box.

- no talking about what those glasses are, what their coating is, etc.

- no talkking about that box

- no measuring of what the initial color temp is

- no measuring of the initial state, birghtness, etc. of that monitor

- no actual measuring of the blue component of the light.

Also, if the light was originally white, there would be no blue reflection with a typical mirror, or at least no blue reflectionn absorbed to the eye level.

Think about sunglasses. They look blue - similar thing with those in that video.

IT is basically just not proving anything, but that exact situation and results...
 
So I got my LG yesterday, and been running through settings, saturations, levels, and the full displaycal set with assisted tuning, I have a multiple monitor config and with the asus 32" I have along with my QNIX and ACER321HK and 270hu oddly enough this LG monitor has insanely washed out colors for something that claims 10 bit ( 8bit +2bit frc) Display cal isn't reading anymore than 64% capable, its set to 10bcc and full for color in nvidia but nothing, blacks are pretty washed out, I had to heavily bump saturation to look decent but now windows looks a bit odd, any suggestions from other owners as I recall a few here that mentioned ways to bump the color vibrancy, I took the six axis and bumped saturation to 70 on rgb but despite running through lighting setup on display cal darks appear washed out.

Is this a standard gamut monitor by chance?
 
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So I got my LG yesterday, and been running through settings, saturations, levels, and the full displaycal set with assisted tuning, I have a multiple monitor config and with the asus 32" I have along with my QNIX and ACER321HK and 270hu oddly enough this LG monitor has insanely washed out colors for something that claims 10 bit ( 8bit +2bit frc) Display cal isn't reading anymore than 64% capable, its set to 10bcc and full for color in nvidia but nothing, blacks are pretty washed out, I had to heavily bump saturation to look decent but now windows looks a bit odd, any suggestions from other owners as I recall a few here that mentioned ways to bump the color vibrancy, I took the six axis and bumped saturation to 70 on rgb but despite running through lighting setup on display cal darks appear washed out.

Is this a standard gamut monitor by chance?

Hey Luna!

You're Luna from NotebookReview?

I heavily recommend to go with Dell P4317Q instead. It has a standard gamut as well as this LG, but I can guarantee that it looks fairly satisfying.
 
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