24" Widescreen CRT (FW900) From Ebay arrived,Comments.

And now it's as worse as it was before, pff. Thoroughly cleaning the port and plug didn't help, neither did making more room for the Displayport plug. I really hope the Delock engineer took some EMC lessons and it's up to bad GPU Displayport implementation. My quality opinion about the Delock adapter:

- DP male plug feels cheap
- DP adapter cable is very thin for a certified DP1.2 cable

Is your prototype the same? Time to exchange the adapter for a new one to be sure it's not faulty :(

(and cutting away some metal because the GPU is just hanging there crooked this way)

Before

ESDQfKp.jpg

After
mPoxbhJ.jpg
No my adapter is aesthetically more similar to this:
http://www.delock.de/produkte/1022_Displayport/61848/merkmale.html
Have you tried to unplug and replug the adapter while it work?
The adapter supports the hotplug
Inserting the cable more is worse?
and if you insert it less?
What worries me is that the box of the adapter of final version it looks smaller,i hope that they have not changed the pcb.
Delock told me that inside it is identical.
I have connected my adapter to a 3 euro shit MiniDP to DP adapter (only for 7950),the cable seems cheap but it works perfectly up to 340 Mhz with AMD 7950 and Nvidia 1070,only on AMD 5850 with DP 1.1 it works bad.
However,the web is full of people with problems on Displayport with GTX900 series cards.
 
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This is mostly irrelevant for FreeSync as horizontal blanking is completely unchanged during FreeSync operation.

I just thought of a good type of CRT to try this with: The Sony CRT HDTV sets from the early 00's. Specifically the Hi-scan and Super Fine Pitch tubes. I was able to run all sorts of weird resolutions and refresh rates on that thing as long as I kept horizontal frequency at 33.75kHz (same as 1080i). So I could do 540p@60hz, ~820i@72hz with a 21:9 aspect ratio. I actually used Blur Busters to confirm all of these modes worked. Gave away TV last year though.

So if you can find one of those in the wild, that might be a good set to try freesync on. You could do 480p at a range of like 70 to 55.

EDIT: and I forgot, this only worked over the component input. So I used an Audio Authority 9A60 to translate VGA to Component. An HD Fury 2 might be a good candidate to go straight to component, or you'd have to run a couple types of converters in series.
 
Sorry i should have told you that what i ask isn't for freesync,my goal is to reduce the blanking to reach higher refresh rate at the same pixel clock keeping in mind the 340 MHz limit of the converter.
Tweaking techniques for this is very different than FreeSync tweaking.
Yes, reducing blanking intervals (pushing against your manufacturer limits) is one way of achieving higher Hz.

However, you might actually achieve even higher-Hz by using a lower resolution and then using the spare dotclock room to increase your blanking intervals (higher Hz + fuller blanking intervals). Sometimes refresh rate overclocking becomes easier with that.

So you have to ways to go:
1. Keep your resolution and use your limited dotclock room to increase the refresh rate (via reduced blanking intervals)
2. Lower your resolution and use your bigger dotclock room to increase the refresh rate (without using reduced blanking intervals)

You'll usually get a higher Hz via approach #2 than via approach #1. It depends on the display. Try it both ways. Tough call -- keep the resolution or not -- or aim for the higher Hz.

I just thought of a good type of CRT to try this with: The Sony CRT HDTV sets from the early 00's. Specifically the Hi-scan and Super Fine Pitch tubes. I was able to run all sorts of weird resolutions and refresh rates on that thing as long as I kept horizontal frequency at 33.75kHz (same as 1080i). So I could do 540p@60hz, ~820i@72hz with a 21:9 aspect ratio. I actually used Blur Busters to confirm all of these modes worked. Gave away TV last year though.
Yeah, some displays were fixed-frequency horizontally, but ended up behaving as multisync vertically.

They're fun!

Those "fixed-horiz + multisync-vertical" displays are also good CRT FreeSync candidates too.

If you don't have a HDMI-to-Component adaptor (best), then the two-adaptor chain is an alternative (HDMI-to-VGA, then VGA-to-Component) is compatible with FreeSync too for component-video FreeSync testing.
 
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So you have to ways to go:
1. Keep your resolution and use your limited dotclock room to increase the refresh rate (via reduced blanking intervals)
2. Lower your resolution and use your bigger dotclock room to increase the refresh rate (without using reduced blanking intervals)

Yes the first is the one in which i experiment,the second is what everyone does for reach higher refresh rate,but exept the very high resolutions,the monitor horizontal scan limit is reached before pixel clock limit of the adapter.
 
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Hi,

I have had the HP rebadge of this monitor for a good 5 years now and absolutely love it.

Recently the VGA connection on the display was coming loose and the color shifted blue, etc.

So I bought a BNC to VGA cable a few weeks ago and was amazed at how much stronger the colors were, as well as the increased sharpness.

My problem now is that the monitor continually resizes itself. Whenever I turn it on, the edges of the screen are usually expanded so they cut off the edges quite noticeably. Now, even when using the display and watching a 20 minute video, the display will resize, normally shrinking. It is more common to see the resizing vertically than horizontally. I am always running the same resolution (1920x1200 @ 85 Hz).

This never happened with the VGA output, and my OS and GPU are the same. Same display drivers too. Same DVI-I port on my 980Ti. I double checked my BNC connections and they are solid, and the sync cables are attached correctly. If I try and swap them, I get no display, so I had them attached correctly the first time.

From what I have read online installing the monitor drivers helps. Anything I find online does not load as it is not 64 bit compatible (Win7 64 bit) but I can search from a list in Windows and pick the FW900. With VGA the monitor was automatically detected as an HP A7217A. But despite the monitor being listed correctly in Display Manager, the Display Properties lists it as a generic monitor over VGA.

Does anyone know a solution to this issue? It is a lovely display but this is driving me crazy.
 
I did some tests with resolutions to see how Displayport works with this converter.
The new AMD control panel shows me the DP lanes configuration,this is the result:
Up to 108 MHz it uses 2 RBR lanes
From 108 to 180 MHz it uses 2 HBR lanes
From 180 to 340 MHz it uses 2 HBR2 lanes
These are perfectly in specs and totally different from ANX9847 datasheet
So that Analogix configuration is probably not enabled or AMD panel shows wrong data
I forced DP 1.1 in my graphic card through a registry key and the converter works perfectly up to 180 MHz
I need to retest the converter on AMD 5850 to discover why it works so bad,it should works well up to 180 MHz,instead showed an unstable image after a certain pixel clock,i don't remember but was near 100 MHz.
108 MHz is when RBR pass to HBR,the same thing happen to pr0ton when HBR pass to HBR2

Now there is a store that ships the adapter on all Europe and with good shipping cost
https://geizhals.eu/1186365303
I wait a bit for my local store
 
The adapter supports the hotplug
Inserting the cable more is worse?
and if you insert it less?
I tried all ways and playing with the cable and I have another situation now: all resolutions up to ~240MHz pixelclock are stable, 1920x1200@73Hz for instance. Everything higher doesn't output anything on the FW900 though the FW900's LED turns green. Can it be it's only functioning with one HBR2 lane now?

When I use a stable resolution and I move the Delock adapter at the back of the PC now and then it loses connection, not a reliable connection for sure (whether it's the Delock or GPU).

Oh, and I probably can lend a HD6970 which has DP1.2. But I read online that one is also a troublemaker in combination with DP1.2. Not so interested to pay money for a newer AMD card now since the mining business made the GPU prices go sky-high. Although I would really like to return to AMD as soon as possible.
 
No,one lane HBR2 is 180 MHz (like two HBR),with 240 MHz two HBR2 lanes are active.
So,you have got different results,from unstable under 180 to stable up to 340,now stable up to 240 and if you touch the connector it changes.
You can try with the 6970,but at this point i would change the adapter.
 
Is there someone else who ordered the adapter?

Yes, I did too, a couple days ago!

Now there is a store that ships the adapter on all Europe and with good shipping cost
https://geizhals.eu/1186365303

I bought mine from another store, but it was the only one in stock. The page is gone now.
https://www.yakodo.de/Delock-Adapter-Displayport-12-Stecker-VGA-Buchse-schwarz_2?ref=gz
I can't wait for a local store to have it, I'm from Reunion Island, I have to import it.

So the package has been shipped, but I have no idea when I'll get it.

I read all the issues pr0ton has been dealing with, I'll be able to test both 1080 and 980M cards, the laptop with the 980M has DisplayPort 1.2, so if things work as they should, I should get the full bandwidth.
I'll keep you posted as soon as I receive the package. Hope it won't take too long.
 
Yes, I did too, a couple days ago!



I bought mine from another store, but it was the only one in stock. The page is gone now.
https://www.yakodo.de/Delock-Adapter-Displayport-12-Stecker-VGA-Buchse-schwarz_2?ref=gz
I can't wait for a local store to have it, I'm from Reunion Island, I have to import it.

So the package has been shipped, but I have no idea when I'll get it.

I read all the issues pr0ton has been dealing with, I'll be able to test both 1080 and 980M cards, the laptop with the 980M has DisplayPort 1.2, so if things work as they should, I should get the full bandwidth.
I'll keep you posted as soon as I receive the package. Hope it won't take too long.

Good to know,i remember yakodo,wow only one in stock.
I remember even Amazon UK with one in stock
Jacob.de has 66 in stock and shipments out of Germany cost little
Well 1080 and 980,a good test platform.
 
Hi,

I have had the HP rebadge of this monitor for a good 5 years now and absolutely love it.

Recently the VGA connection on the display was coming loose and the color shifted blue, etc.

So I bought a BNC to VGA cable a few weeks ago and was amazed at how much stronger the colors were, as well as the increased sharpness.

My problem now is that the monitor continually resizes itself. Whenever I turn it on, the edges of the screen are usually expanded so they cut off the edges quite noticeably. Now, even when using the display and watching a 20 minute video, the display will resize, normally shrinking. It is more common to see the resizing vertically than horizontally. I am always running the same resolution (1920x1200 @ 85 Hz).

This never happened with the VGA output, and my OS and GPU are the same. Same display drivers too. Same DVI-I port on my 980Ti. I double checked my BNC connections and they are solid, and the sync cables are attached correctly. If I try and swap them, I get no display, so I had them attached correctly the first time.

From what I have read online installing the monitor drivers helps. Anything I find online does not load as it is not 64 bit compatible (Win7 64 bit) but I can search from a list in Windows and pick the FW900. With VGA the monitor was automatically detected as an HP A7217A. But despite the monitor being listed correctly in Display Manager, the Display Properties lists it as a generic monitor over VGA.

Does anyone know a solution to this issue? It is a lovely display but this is driving me crazy.


Any way to show us a video? I know that all of my GDM monitors' image size shrank a little during warmup.
 
I am moving and I want to sell my FW900 before I go.
It has some issues:
  • I removed the anti-glare coating 4 years ago as it was scratched up
  • 1920x1200@85 is strongly warped. 1920x1200@75 looks great still.
  • takes about 5 minutes to warm up to the correct contrast and black levels
  • image jumps around when the monitor is turned on when the air is humid. jumping takes longer to stop when the air is more humid

you can see the work I've done to it on page 262 of this thread. I have done nothing afterwards except run the image restore function a few times.
the image links no longer work but here is the full set of images from page 262: https://mega.nz/#F!AswkVIzD!Cp1eN47hBmwghQV8yfQ0Bg
bezels are all clean, minimum scratches to the outside. no scratches on the screen. included is the
be honest, how much would you pay for such a monitor? note that I would do local pickup only in Brooklyn, NY. I wouldn't have the patience to pack it and ship it.
 
I am moving and I want to sell my FW900 before I go.
It has some issues:
  • I removed the anti-glare coating 4 years ago as it was scratched up
  • 1920x1200@85 is strongly warped. 1920x1200@75 looks great still.
  • takes about 5 minutes to warm up to the correct contrast and black levels
  • image jumps around when the monitor is turned on when the air is humid. jumping takes longer to stop when the air is more humid

you can see the work I've done to it on page 262 of this thread. I have done nothing afterwards except run the image restore function a few times.
the image links no longer work but here is the full set of images from page 262: https://mega.nz/#F!AswkVIzD!Cp1eN47hBmwghQV8yfQ0Bg
bezels are all clean, minimum scratches to the outside. no scratches on the screen. included is the
be honest, how much would you pay for such a monitor? note that I would do local pickup only in Brooklyn, NY. I wouldn't have the patience to pack it and ship it.
How many hours approximately?
 
I don't know how to check either. But that amount of usage isn't light. I'm not actually in the market for one so I won't throw out any random numbers on the price. These are getting rarer and rarer, though. This guy on Ebay is selling his for $500 or so: http://www.ebay.com/itm/SONY-GDM-FW...PRO-MONITOR-/322665830297?hash=item4b2061d799
I've seen that too. honestly I don't think mine is as good as his $500 examples, but is much better than his $100 one. I cannot gauge the repairability of my problem and I cannot test the BNC connection. I have never used it.
I think $300 would be reasonable for mine. That's how much I got it for, shipped, back when ebay had dozens to chose from.
 
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Hi, I have a Dell D2026T-HS (mfg. July '97) that I would like to calibrate with WinDAS. I believe it should work as it is a Sony GDM line Trinitron tube (equivalent Sony monitor is the GDM-20SE2T) and has the serial in pins which I have connected with the appropriate cable. I am using WinDAS Version 1.690.126. In the Model Sel this model is not shown, which prevents me from proceeding. Is there somewhere I can add the data of this monitor to WinDAS or use a version of WinDAS that supports this monitor?

Dell spec sheet for this monitor: https://web.archive.org/web/20010725053521/http://docs.us.dell.com/docs/dta/97788/00000001.htm
 
I don't know how to check either. But that amount of usage isn't light. I'm not actually in the market for one so I won't throw out any random numbers on the price. These are getting rarer and rarer, though. This guy on Ebay is selling his for $500 or so: http://www.ebay.com/itm/SONY-GDM-FW...PRO-MONITOR-/322665830297?hash=item4b2061d799
I love what I read in that description:
No Anti-glare layer (removed for better contrast)
The 2nd purpose of the anti-reflection layer is precisely to improve contrast you goddam idiotic monkey ... :facepalm:

edit: About the price subject it's really difficult to define properly in my opinion.
- On the one hand you'll find people getting rid of the screens for almost nothing because they simply think it's not worth anything in front of a LCD
- On the other hand you'll find a few people aware of the qualities of such displays, and their relative scarcity, and they'll severely overprice them, not taking into account devices age and start to develop problems that require some maintenance to keep them in a top operating condition.
 
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The 2nd purpose of the anti-reflection layer is precisely to improve contrast you goddam idiotic monkey ... :facepalm:
Actually, it was tested to be double-edged sword.
There were contrast tests done during removal of anti-glare films on certain Korean LCDs.

--> For fully lit rooms, anti-glare layers increased contrast.
--> For completely dark rooms, anti-glare layers decreased contrast

It is precisely why some manufacturers sold certain monitors (QNX QX2710) with a choice: with versus without antiglare.

Bad ones even had a faint 'halo glow' effect caused by internal diffusion to nearby pixels. THere were some really huge macro zooms that really demonstrated the increased-contrast-in-dark-room effect. I forgot which site published these images, but it was around 2013 or 2014 or thereabouts. But there was a clear double-edged-sword effect. I don't know if this applies to the CRT FW-900 antiglare too, or was a failed attempt (or not), but there are pros/cons -- a "double-edge sword" effect in a manner of speaking -- that depends on whether you're using that display in a dark cave or an office room.
 
Actually, it was tested to be double-edged sword.
There were contrast tests done during removal of anti-glare films on certain Korean LCDs.

--> For fully lit rooms, anti-glare layers increased contrast.
--> For completely dark rooms, anti-glare layers decreased contrast

It is precisely why some manufacturers sold certain monitors (QNX QX2710) with a choice: with versus without antiglare.

Bad ones even had a faint 'halo glow' effect caused by internal diffusion to nearby pixels. THere were some really huge macro zooms that really demonstrated the increased-contrast-in-dark-room effect. I forgot which site published these images, but it was around 2013 or 2014 or thereabouts. But there was a clear double-edged-sword effect. I don't know if this applies to the CRT FW-900 antiglare too, or was a failed attempt (or not), but there are pros/cons -- a "double-edge sword" effect in a manner of speaking -- that depends on whether you're using that display in a dark cave or an office room.
Anti-reflection films on CRTs are quite complex films with multiple purposes (reduce outside AND inside reflections, increase contrast by decreasing transmittance, fix color imbalances of phosphors, EMI shielding and so on). They can't really be compared to what is found on LCDs.

Also, don't mix up anti-reflective and anti-glare films, these are different films. Anti-reflective ones just prevent reflections. Anti-glare ones diffuse the light so that you can't see a consistent picture reflected on the surface, but it still reflects the same amount of light.
 
Actually, it was tested to be double-edged sword.
There were contrast tests done during removal of anti-glare films on certain Korean LCDs.

--> For fully lit rooms, anti-glare layers increased contrast.
--> For completely dark rooms, anti-glare layers decreased contrast

It is precisely why some manufacturers sold certain monitors (QNX QX2710) with a choice: with versus without antiglare.

Bad ones even had a faint 'halo glow' effect caused by internal diffusion to nearby pixels. THere were some really huge macro zooms that really demonstrated the increased-contrast-in-dark-room effect. I forgot which site published these images, but it was around 2013 or 2014 or thereabouts. But there was a clear double-edged-sword effect. I don't know if this applies to the CRT FW-900 antiglare too, or was a failed attempt (or not), but there are pros/cons -- a "double-edge sword" effect in a manner of speaking -- that depends on whether you're using that display in a dark cave or an office room.
How's your FW900 search going by the way? If I were nearer the Canadian border I wouldn't mind hauling one up to you for science.
 
So I have a Viewsonic P225FB which isnt quite the FW900 I wanted but I did get this for free! So, I wanna use my laptop with it which has USB Type C and some HDMI 2.0 I think. Any converters that would let me drive 1920x1440 at 75hz which is the res I wanna use. This Tendak converter I got will not do anything above 1280x1024 sadly
 
Yeah, just try it out. You also want to make sure you add the HDMI.dat from the download page for CRU. That prevents your adapter from being detected as DVI single-link/HDMI 1.4, which maxes out at 1920x1200@60hz.

But yeah, if you still find yourself limited, there is a new adapter than can go up to 340mhz, you'll see it discussed on previous pages. I think it's made by a company called DeLock? Not sure where to buy it, it's pretty new.

Also, for close to 280mHz, there's the VCOM displayport adapter we've been discussing in this thread, and I've hit close to 280mhz clock on the HD Fury Nano GX.
 
So I have a Viewsonic P225FB which isnt quite the FW900 I wanted but I did get this for free! So, I wanna use my laptop with it which has USB Type C and some HDMI 2.0 I think. Any converters that would let me drive 1920x1440 at 75hz which is the res I wanna use. This Tendak converter I got will not do anything above 1280x1024 sadly

What is the exact model of the laptop?
 
From what i've seen,the USB-C output isn't connected to the master GPU,but to the integrated one (CPU)
But there is the possibility to play a game in which the master GPU does the rendering and the output goes through the integrated one (i don't know if it is compatible with all software),so you can use a USB-C to VGA adapter for output a game to the CRT.
Here: https://insider.razerzone.com/index...-2016-displayport-thank-to-thunderbolt.17259/
The only USB-C to VGA adapters i know that can do the resolution you want are:
Delock 62796 http://www.delock.de/produkte/1096_USB-Type-C-/62796/merkmale.html
Plugable http://plugable.com/products/usbc-vga/
The other output of your laptop is HDMI 2.0,but i don't know converters for that resolution (maybe HDFURY 3 and 4,but they cost much)
 
Ok here I am again, with good and bad news.

First with the good news, today I received my Delock 62967 adapter. It arrived quite fast, I was expecting to wait one more week to get it.

Now for the bad news... The display can't even stay steady at 1920x1080@60Hz! In fact, I had to unplug/replug the thing many times to get it recognized by Windows, and when it finally was, it just couldn't output an image correctly to the CRT.

My main LCD monitor uses DisplayPort 1.2, and it works perfectly fine at 2560x1440@165Hz on the same graphics card (the EVGA GTX1080 FTW). The thing is, the connector is a tight fit, it just doesn't move at all and it even has a locking mechanism. In comparison, the DP plug of the Delock adapter is loose, has no lock, probably the worst possible DP connector one can come up with.

So, now I'm not saying this is the only issue with this adapter, but so far, it's the only thing preventing me from testing it further. So, no way I'm sending this adapter back... Let's take the tools and crack it open! See how it's made, and if the cable could be replaced easily or not.

DSC05794.JPG


Ok, it was not exactly easy to open, but it's not glued... I applied pressure on the short sides with pliers, and fortunately it did not break. The white piece just popped out.

DSC05796.JPG


Well, it's shielded... I guess that's a good thing. But they could have just made a grounded metal case instead of wrapping the electronics in adhesive copper foil, and then solder it to ground. But I guess that's a cheap way to achieve the same thing, and technically it should work okay I guess, for what it is.

DSC05799.JPG


Underneath the copper, the electronics is wrapped in... masking tape?! Well, thinking about it, it isolates the circuit from the copper foil. Okay fine. Let's keep going.

DSC05801.JPG

DSC05802.JPG


Finally, here we can see the PCB.

Great news, the wires are simply connected on small pads, well spaced from each other. They are individually separated by a piece of plastic with grooves for each cable, and then covered by a blob of glue stick on both sides (fortunately, easy to remove).

Now a close up on the wires.

DSC05803.JPG

DSC05806.JPG


We can clearly see the converter IC here. So, it's a Analogix ANX9847, which is the same one used in USB Type C converters (Delock 62796).

http://www.delock.de/produkt/62796/pdf.html?sprache=en

These adapters are rated at 2560x1600@60Hz, the same as the ANX6212 we have been talking about before, and the modified ANX9833. I can't find any info on these ANX9847 though.

The circuit looks incredibly simple, the Analogix IC clearly does everything here.

Ok, now that I know I definately can replace the DisplayPort cable and connector, time to open the connector and check the color coding of each wire, see which wire goes where.

DSC05807.JPG


This time I just butchered the connector... it's molded and no way I can dismantle it in a clean way. This connector is going to the trash anyway.

DSC05809.JPG


Ok here it is. Now a close up on the wires.

DSC05815.JPG

DSC05817.JPG


Well, that's it for now.

Sadly I don't have a spare DisplayPort cable at hand, so I'll have to buy good quality one, cut it and solder the wires on the PCB.

Another way to do it would be to simply put a DisplayPort connector on the board, but it simply wasn't designed for that, the PCB pads are not organised and spaced correctly for that. Doing so would require designing a PCB from scratch. Having the ANX9847 datasheet would help a lot for that.
 
Oh shit!
Thank you for the detailed report.
So,after you have looked inside,what do you think it is?
Only the shit connector?
Looking inside both the DP connector of the LCD monitor and that of the adapter,did you see differences? (space between pins and connector,ecc..)
How are the cable and the welds?
Have you tested it on both 980 and 1080?
Is the VGA connector at least good?
Here you can read online the datasheet (ANX9837 and ANX9847 datasheets are identical)

https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&js=y&prev=_t&hl=it&ie=UTF-8&u=https://wenku.baidu.com/view/21a3e3a14b35eefdc8d333f3.html?re=view&edit-text=

Try to see if they have forgotten some components.
My first sample connector is solid and it has a locking mechanism with a push button
I must contact Delock
How many other users have ordered the adapter?
 
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So that's a 2nd people with a loose DP connector apparently.

There might also be an issue with the wire soldering to the DP connector. The 10th picture shows it is handmade and the guy struggled making clean work, there's even melted plastic.
 
I'd say the board itself looks quite ok, nothing seems wrong with it from what I can see. Thank you for the link, I have no idea how you found this, but well done!

So I read the datasheet, I'm not sure they exactly followed every single design recommendations, but for the most important ones it seems to me like they did a good job. I did not check low level things like the components values and things like that, I assume it should be fine.

There are quite a few parts on the VGA side of things, for signal filtering, impedance matching, proper terminaison to avoid signal reflection... All the component values are stated on the datasheet, I didn't check that. When I'll get the adapter to work again, I'll use the only high quality VGA cable I have to connect it to the monitor. I'll visually check the precision of the display, and look for ghosting. If there are no issues there, I guess the VGA circuit is just fine. If not, I guess I'll have to dig a bit deeper...

On the DP side of things, there is not much to say. The wiring is indeed symmetrical for the most part which is what's recommanded for high speed differential pairs like these. The length of each pair is not identical though, but since they are really short here anyway, I'm not sure it matters much in this case. Better isolation between the pairs might be a good idea as well.

Do not take what I say for absolute truth, I've never worked with high speed digital or analog circuits before. I just know what's recommanded, and what's written in the datasheet. I can be wrong!

Anyway, right now, I think the real issue is the DisplayPort connector. Sadly I managed to break the connector itself while handling it. But that's fine, like I said I won't keep it anyway. I looked for a DisplayPort 1.2 cable at the local stores, they only have 1.1. I look somewhere else tomorrow, and maybe I'll just get a 1.1 cable, I'm not sure it matters over really short distances... I mean, as long as it has all the wires in it. If anyone knows about that, please let me know.

The connector itself seems to be wired more or less fine. They indeed soldered all the wires by hand, put too much solder, and burned the plastic shell of the connector. One blob of solder is almost touching the grounded outer shell of the connector, but it's not making contact. Overall, the solder joints seems to be fine, so this should not be a problem.

From what I can tell, the VGA connector is ok, all pins makes good contact with the VGA cable.
 
Thank you again for the useful informations.
Looking the male connector of the adapter,how much space is between a pin row and the other?
In this photo is 0.80mm (this is the female connector): https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:DisplayPort_(connector).PNG
In picture 5 and 7 i see good wire soldering and the PCB seems good,but in picture 6 it's very bad,the red wire seems doesn't touch the pad and make contact only with solder.
About the Displayport cable,there is only one type and if done well it must be able to support all DP modes.
1.1-1.2 cables are only marketing bullshit,look here
https://www.displayport.org/cables/how-to-choose-a-displayport-cable-and-not-get-a-bad-one/
 
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