New 1950x build... and I went all out...

I also decided to pick up a larger cooler locally rather than use the H80i I had sitting around. Again, this will just be needed until my water block and chiller arrive.. :)

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It can take some time to get a loop in hand and all plumbed up. In the meantime you might want to lap the aio, a flat surface is super important with TR.
 
What a build! Damn... I don't believe it gets too much better then this :)

Can't wait to see more pics/updates!
 
My ram showed up today. I initially tried installed all 128GB but I couldnt get the system to post. I think its because I am only running one of the two required 8 pin EATX power connectors to the motherboard (power supply doesnt show up until tomorrow), so not too worried. I am underclocking the CPU as well as undervolting it due to the cooling I have installed right now. This thing gets nuclear real quick when under load!! Here are some screen shots of the settings:

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Nice! What do you have the CPU running at and do you have a double or triple radiator for the CPU?
I have a 2 fan aio... until I get an Xspc block. Then it will have a 3 fan in series with a 2 fan rad and gpu and both 1080ti cards will be underwater.

5x120 worth of radiators should be around 1 to 1200 watts of cooling power and thats just guessing. But im using older swiftech thin rads. Maybe a single 2x thick 3 fan could cool better.
 
I have a 2 fan aio... until I get an Xspc block. Then it will have a 3 fan in series with a 2 fan rad and gpu and both 1080ti cards will be underwater.

5x120 worth of radiators should be around 1 to 1200 watts of cooling power and thats just guessing. But im using older swiftech thin rads. Maybe a single 2x thick 3 fan could cool better.

What clock speed and voltage are you running the CPU at and what are your temps under load?
 
Have an EK block tracking number even though I don't like EK. I'm gonna use until Xspc releases thier block and then sell the ek.

FWIW: I found a youtube video of a guy with a prototype EK Threadripper block and he disassembled it. I didnt see anything concerning with the flow pattern, but maybe it would be more obvious if there were a direct comparison to the XSPC. Regardless, keep me posted as to how ti works for you! I am going to check and see if I got my tracking number for my block now.. :)
 
8-25-2017 Update

I got my new power supply today (eVGA 1600 T2) so I can now have two 8 pin EATX power connectors hooked up. I was hoping that would alleviate the issue I was having with being able to get 128GB to post, but it still doesnt work. Long story short is the system wont post with anything more than 4 modules installed. I started doing some research on the ROG forum and found a sticky in there that had several newer BETA BIOS's. One of them included a firmware update for the OLED trouble shooting screen on the motherboard. Well, that update make it so the screen gives you a QQ code which helps out a ton when trying to troubleshoot. The version I had only give you generic parts like "CPU, memory, VGA". The new update gives you this same info as well as a corresponding QQ error code which you can look up to get a more exact fault code. The code I am getting is "Memory D0" when I have more than 4 modules installed. I was also able to find a new beta BIOS (9980) which was compiled only 4 days ago. I tried that BIOS out and got the same behavior I had with the newest released driver.

I am corresponding with someone on the ROG forum and believe ASUS has BIOS guys monitoring the forums, so I hope to get this resolved soon. I am still undervolting and underclocking the CPU until my water block and chiller show up, but the system otherwise is 100% rock solid stable!
 
Good news: Got a tracking number today for my chiller and CPU water block.

Bad News: Its shipped from Florida via ground and I am in Seattle so it wont show up until Sep 9.

Additional interesting side note: I was going through and figuring what Koolance stuff I needed for fittings, etc., and ended up picking up a ERM-3K3UC Liquid Cooling System, Rev1.1 along with everything else. Figured I would use this to cool the video cards. After all, its only money right?!!?!?

I may need some help to decide what video card water blocks I should get for dual Titan XP's. Feel free to post suggestions. I will get some pictures of the Koolance 3K3UC tomorrow...
 
Wanted to make a comment about having more money than sense but ... Oh WTF, man you got more money than sense! :D Either the chiller or the 3K3UC will have more than enough dissipation to cool your entire system. But you know what? I LOVE pointless, "just because you can," overkill builds. Really looking forward to seeing some pics and some numbers.
 
Good news: Got a tracking number today for my chiller and CPU water block.

Bad News: Its shipped from Florida via ground and I am in Seattle so it wont show up until Sep 9.

Additional interesting side note: I was going through and figuring what Koolance stuff I needed for fittings, etc., and ended up picking up a ERM-3K3UC Liquid Cooling System, Rev1.1 along with everything else. Figured I would use this to cool the video cards. After all, its only money right?!!?!?

I may need some help to decide what video card water blocks I should get for dual Titan XP's. Feel free to post suggestions. I will get some pictures of the Koolance 3K3UC tomorrow...

Just for the gpus? Why just for the gpus? You haven't even picked out blocks yet? Anyways those Koolance systems suck and on that matter I think your case is not up to the task specifically for the wattage and lack of radiator locations. Now if your going external that doesn't matter. That case was cool a few years ago with a lot of modding. Today it doesn't cut it with abundance of modern wc cases, like an Enthoo Primo. If you're going to go external get a mo-ra3 or phobya extreme external. You could build a chain of 3 1080 rads for the price of that Koolance unit lol. Btw, did you read the fine print on the Koolance, 2400w cooling at 25c delta, lmao. The ideal cooling delta is 10c. As far as gpu blocks, I prefer the EK ecosystem.

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Just for the gpus? Why just for the gpus? You haven't even picked out blocks yet? Anyways those Koolance systems suck and on that matter I think your case is not up to the task specifically for the wattage and lack of radiator locations. Now if your going external that doesn't matter. That case was cool a few years ago with a lot of modding. Today it doesn't cut it with abundance of modern wc cases, like an Enthoo Primo. If you're going to go external get a mo-ra3 or phobya extreme external. You could build a chain of 3 1080 rads for the price of that Koolance unit lol. Btw, did you read the fine print on the Koolance, 2400w cooling at 25c delta, lmao. The ideal cooling delta is 10c. As far as gpu blocks, I prefer the EK ecosystem.

I already have several systems in this same room. All are water cooled with internal radiators. I dont want more heat in that room, so all the cooling is going to be external (to the room). I am using the Temjin because I have a few of them, but I dont care one way or the other. If there is one I like better I will switch it. Whoopdeedoo.. Who cares. Not a hard problem to solve (if it even turns into a problem). Yes, I read the fine print on the Koolance about the temp delta. I would think that could easily be fixed with fans and/or orientation as the radiators themselves can only do so much. Thats also the reason to only use it for video cards. Second reason for the Koolance is that it looks nice. Again, this is going to be seen outside the room so just having the case would be good enough for me. The CPU is going to be cooled with a chiller. Nothing within the project is out of necessity. Its all about experimenting and having fun.

If you read the whole thread you would know I have an EK water block for the CPU. Several people questioned that decision so I thought I would ask people's opinion about the video card blocks.

Now you know everything.
 
Well on the EK running 16 threads in Handbrake and playing PUBG at same time which I could never do on my R7-1700x btw, I was averaging 64c and peaks very quickly of 71c.

I think I do not have a good TIM spread and after I buy some more in ginna apply it differently. Using IC Diamond. That or the chip is just a fission reactor and no matter what they run hot.

I'm running 5x120 via 2x120 and a 3x120 so I have an easy KW of cooling performance. My GPUs ...dual 1080ti, run around 44 to 56 c MAX at 2012mhz core.

So what I see is ... over 700 watts of GPU being cooled to 45 to 56c under full load vs. A 180w CPU running at 64 to 71 with an ek block. I see a shotty ass block or I need to reapply paste.

Just a mini review of the EK block I guess in a sense.
 
Well on the EK running 16 threads in Handbrake and playing PUBG at same time which I could never do on my R7-1700x btw, I was averaging 64c and peaks very quickly of 71c.

I think I do not have a good TIM spread and after I buy some more in ginna apply it differently. Using IC Diamond. That or the chip is just a fission reactor and no matter what they run hot.

I'm running 5x120 via 2x120 and a 3x120 so I have an easy KW of cooling performance. My GPUs ...dual 1080ti, run around 44 to 56 c MAX at 2012mhz core.

So what I see is ... over 700 watts of GPU being cooled to 45 to 56c under full load vs. A 180w CPU running at 64 to 71 with an ek block. I see a shotty ass block or I need to reapply paste.

Just a mini review of the EK block I guess in a sense.

Good to know! What clock speed are you running the CPU at under load? I have read reports of over 500W sustained while under load if overclocked to 4000MHz. While its possible the block design is suspect, I just cant see much that can be done from a design perspective that could make dramatic differences.
 
I already have several systems in this same room. All are water cooled with internal radiators. I dont want more heat in that room, so all the cooling is going to be external (to the room). I am using the Temjin because I have a few of them, but I dont care one way or the other. If there is one I like better I will switch it. Whoopdeedoo.. Who cares. Not a hard problem to solve (if it even turns into a problem). Yes, I read the fine print on the Koolance about the temp delta. I would think that could easily be fixed with fans and/or orientation as the radiators themselves can only do so much. Thats also the reason to only use it for video cards. Second reason for the Koolance is that it looks nice. Again, this is going to be seen outside the room so just having the case would be good enough for me. The CPU is going to be cooled with a chiller. Nothing within the project is out of necessity. Its all about experimenting and having fun.

If you read the whole thread you would know I have an EK water block for the CPU. Several people questioned that decision so I thought I would ask people's opinion about the video card blocks.

Now you know everything.

Whoodeedoo...? :wtf:
 
Quick update for the day:

I am still waiting on my CPU block.... But I wanted to try out the Koolance setup so I broke out a Fury X with a EK water block installed. Its a mess, but hey this is just for testing purposes:

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Watching this. I also have a 1950x, board, block and new cooling inbound. I'm not quite as extreme, only my two old titans and my existing 32GB ram.
 
Ordered a Thermaltake Core P7 and water cooling blocks and back plates for the 2x Titan XP's. I went the Aquacomputer route as they still let you use the correct SLI connectors. Yes, I know SLI is not cool, but I have all 4k monitors and I have quite a few games that still work well with it. Hopefully these cards wont be totally useless by the time DX12 is mainstream...
 
Ordered a Thermaltake Core P7 and water cooling blocks and back plates for the 2x Titan XP's. I went the Aquacomputer route as they still let you use the correct SLI connectors. Yes, I know SLI is not cool, but I have all 4k monitors and I have quite a few games that still work well with it. Hopefully these cards wont be totally useless by the time DX12 is mainstream...

whhhhaaa????

sli is cool as hell. My games are so smooth.

There is this funky myth going around that SLI is dead. Even I recently had to inquire into this but it is not dead in anyway. SLI is cool. There is lots of support for SLI. In my quest to clarify this claim across various forums I have concluded that people that claim it is dead are people that do not own SLI and have or are continuously regurgitating internet hear-say without actually using or researching for themselves the tech.

Fake news is all the tech internet has these days.
 
Some people have problems with SLI. Some don't. It's the nature of computers. Everyone has different hardware and different needs and different experiences. If everything worked the same for everyone the world would be a very boring place. ;)
 
Wow, awesome build. I'm going to be building a similar rig, on a slightly smaller budget. I'll just have a single video card, probably a Gigabyte Aorus Waterforce. It's clocked a little higher than the Asus Poseidon and a few dollars cheaper. The Gigabyte x399 motherboard is my top pick right now. Again, a little cheaper than the Asus and a few extra SATA ports, which I need.

I hope you find out what's causing the no post issue. Best of luck!
 
Wow, awesome build. I'm going to be building a similar rig, on a slightly smaller budget. I'll just have a single video card, probably a Gigabyte Aorus Waterforce. It's clocked a little higher than the Asus Poseidon and a few dollars cheaper. The Gigabyte x399 motherboard is my top pick right now. Again, a little cheaper than the Asus and a few extra SATA ports, which I need.

I hope you find out what's causing the no post issue. Best of luck!

I cant wait until I get the whole thing together. I am fairly confident I will be able to get the memory to work correctly. There are a couple other people on the ROG forums that have the same memory set I have and they originally had the exact same issue I currently have. They were able to fix it by updating BIOS and manually setting the memory timings and upping voltage on the SOC of the CPU. I still was not able to post with those settings, but my CPU temps were very high (as I still dont have my final cooling setup) and I never got confirmation as to which BIOS they were running. There has been at least one BIOS revision uploaded on the ROG forum each day for the last week, so this is a big variable. My CPU temps using a Thermaltake AIO are 73C when in the UEFI and that is with CPU underclocked to 2500MHz and voltage at 1.1v. The Fans on the 240mmx120mm Radiator are no where near enough to cool this thing. Its gets nuclear in a hurry. Its also possible I dont have a good TIM application as I didnt want to waste too much on a temp cooling setup. Having said this, using the AIO running at 2500mhz and 1.1v with 64GB PC-3000 ram is rock solid stable (have to turn off all the auto-boost in UEFI too as it wants to up clocks all the time; otherwise it will hit TJmax).

All the x399 board look good and comparable right now. The cool feature of the Asus is the two NVME slots on the ram style module as that makes it super easy to swap or disconnect from the system. I screw around in my systems all the time and this alone is going to be a huge feature for me. The other thing I have come to appreciate is the extra back plates the motherboard has. While I havent necessarily ever had issues with a motherboard bending or warping, it does feel much more solid when taking cards in and out.

I would be interested in checking out your system once you get it going. Make sure you drop a note so I can check it out!
 
I have some good news and some bad news...

GOOD NEWS:

1) My EKWB block showed up today! I have some pivot style Koolance fittings installed and will get it installed here shortly...
2) My case showed up!! Havent gotten it opened yet, but looks like its all in one piece.
3) My Alphacool Chiller showed up!

Bad News:
While the chiller arrived OK, its clearly been used, there was green coolant in the tank (with a very musty odor), and its a 220V European version. To make matters worse, I specifically even asked the place I got it from (before I ordered) that it indeed was new/unused and was the US 110V version. I dont want to throw the site under the bus unnecessarily at this point but they are a place people go to for this sort of thing. I am hoping they will be able to make this right. Worst case scenario I am hoping for it I get my money back. Then I get to decide if I want to try again or go the Koolance chiller route.

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I have some good news and some bad news...

GOOD NEWS:

1) My EKWB block showed up today! I have some pivot style Koolance fittings installed and will get it installed here shortly...
2) My case showed up!! Havent gotten it opened yet, but looks like its all in one piece.
3) My Alphacool Chiller showed up!

Bad News:
While the chiller arrived OK, its clearly been used, there was green coolant in the tank (with a very musty odor), and its a 220V European version. To make matters worse, I specifically even asked the place I got it from (before I ordered) that it indeed was new/unused and was the US 110V version. I dont want to throw the site under the bus unnecessarily at this point but they are a place people go to for this sort of thing. I am hoping they will be able to make this right. Worst case scenario I am hoping for it I get my money back. Then I get to decide if I want to try again or go the Koolance chiller route.

> SNIP <
Hurray for the good news!

That sucks about the chiller! Aside from the fact that it is used, it being a Euro version means you probably can't use it. You can get a 220v line installed easily enough and change plugs to make it attach but it is probably designed for 50Hz AC. Running at 60Hz would probably cause problems - at the very least it would shorten the lifespan of the unit.

Send that beast back and if you can't get a 120VAC/60Hz NEW unit ask for a refund and get another Koolance chiller.
 
Yeah, first thing I checked was the power supply and whether it was switchable. Unfortunately, its not switchable and its 220V 50Hz, so there is no way I can use it. Hoping the site I got it from does the right thing and pays to take this back and gives me a full refund. Really sucks as the Aquacool dissipates 1500W while the biggest Kooalnce chiller only does 800W and is supposed to be a lot louder. ARG! First world problem for sure, but it still sucks....
 
Yeah, first thing I checked was the power supply and whether it was switchable. Unfortunately, its not switchable and its 220V 50Hz, so there is no way I can use it. Hoping the site I got it from does the right thing and pays to take this back and gives me a full refund. Really sucks as the Aquacool dissipates 1500W while the biggest Kooalnce chiller only does 800W and is supposed to be a lot louder. ARG! First world problem for sure, but it still sucks....

Did you already have another circuit added for the chiller? Cuz in reality its not like you could have run that chiller at max with your rig on the same circuit. And in that case, might as well have a 220 circuit pulled...?
 
Did you already have another circuit added for the chiller? Cuz in reality its not like you could have run that chiller at max with your rig on the same circuit. And in that case, might as well have a 220 circuit pulled...?

Yes, I actually have 8x separate 20A circuits in my office. Switching one of those circuits over to a 220V circuit wouldnt be very hard. What I am not sure about is changing the circuit over to 50Hz vs. 60 Hz. While you can always change voltage via a step up (or down) transformer (if you dont have a 220V supply), the only way I know to change the frequency is to convert the AC to DC, then convert the DC back to AC. You could either do the voltage change before or at the same time as the frequency conversion, but again, doing the AC to DC then back to AC with new frequency output while not impossible, is a lot of work to do when I could just get a US spec unit like it was supposed to be. ;)

EDIT: I am all ears though if there is an easier way to do this. I think I would still want a new unit, but running at 220V would technically be more efficient.
 
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Holy crap you have 8 20a circuits in yo office? That is very [H]. I suggested the new circuit because dealing with return on such an item (PPCS) will not be fun. GL with the exchange.
 
Holy crap you have 8 20a circuits in yo office? That is very [H]. I suggested the new circuit because dealing with return on such an item (PPCS) will not be fun. GL with the exchange.

Yep! :)

I have two full electrical panels (both have dedicated main lines) to my house. Just so everyone knows, I dont grow any drugs or anything.. But I do have A TON of electronics. You guys would fall over dead if you saw half the crap I have going on here... LOL.. :)
 
Yeah, first thing I checked was the power supply and whether it was switchable. Unfortunately, its not switchable and its 220V 50Hz, so there is no way I can use it. Hoping the site I got it from does the right thing and pays to take this back and gives me a full refund. Really sucks as the Aquacool dissipates 1500W while the biggest Kooalnce chiller only does 800W and is supposed to be a lot louder. ARG! First world problem for sure, but it still sucks....
If you have any DIY skills you could try something like this Drinking Fountain Water Chiller. Don't know what kind of dissipation they have but they're a lot cheaper.
 
If you have any DIY skills you could try something like this Drinking Fountain Water Chiller. Don't know what kind of dissipation they have but they're a lot cheaper.

I have made a couple attempts at DIY chilling but it was a LONG time ago (1999 I believe was the last go around). Normally I would be game for it, but I do want this to be athletically pleasing (within reason) as I have a wife, etc., now and I definitely cant get away with what I used to..... I have done some research on a couple other solutions that I could convert over to my use case scenario. I hadent thought of the drinking fountain chiller (which is a good one). From the looks of it (on the surface), the chiller would need to be modified to support higher cooling levels (especially for an overclocked Threadripper system) and I would also have to address the issue of pumping the chilled coolant as drinking fountains rely on pressure from the water main.

Still keeping my fingers crossed I can get a US spec of what I got. If I cant, I might have to punt on the chiller yet gain and just go traditional water cooling.
 
I looked at the specs for some of the remote chillers and I don't think they would work that well for this application. Most are capable of outputting X gallons of 50ºF water per hour at 80ºF inlet temp and 90ºF ambient. While your ambient would undoubtedly be much lower (if inside the house) your inlet water temp would be much higher under load, perhaps as high as 140ºF. As far as pumping goes, a D5 or two (depending on overall tubing length) should be able to provide ample pressure. An interesting idea though.
 
Yes, I actually have 8x separate 20A circuits in my office. Switching one of those circuits over to a 220V circuit wouldnt be very hard. What I am not sure about is changing the circuit over to 50Hz vs. 60 Hz. While you can always change voltage via a step up (or down) transformer (if you dont have a 220V supply), the only way I know to change the frequency is to convert the AC to DC, then convert the DC back to AC. You could either do the voltage change before or at the same time as the frequency conversion, but again, doing the AC to DC then back to AC with new frequency output while not impossible, is a lot of work to do when I could just get a US spec unit like it was supposed to be. ;)

EDIT: I am all ears though if there is an easier way to do this. I think I would still want a new unit, but running at 220V would technically be more efficient.

Did a quick info check and found that you can buy a 120v to 220v converter for around $50. A lil more for more current carrying capacity. A converter that also does the 60hz to 50hz frequency conversion will cost $1500 :wideyed:

Dont know how much patience you have left with all that you have to do along with tweaking memory timing settings so you can boot to all of the money you invested but its going to be a tough solution. Find a cool electrician who is willing to trade some servicing time to install a 220v line for some of your hacking skills. Mod the compressor. Refrigeration tech installs a 120v motor/compressor. H2R2P2 builds guy new computer for cost. Gotta be a workable solution for 220/120 volt issues. If I find the missing one I'll pass it on :cool:

Found some info that you already prolly know but provides a quick read:

220volts 1.png
220volts 2.png
220volts 3.png
 
The voltage is easy to overcome. I do have 220V available in the house, just not to the room in question. I have eight outlets that are each a dedicated 20A circuit in that room, so switching an outlet over to 220V is a piece of cake actually. The issue comes in changing the frequency of the AC to 50Hz rather than 60Hz. I appreciate the info you sent though as it verified what I thought as far as doing the frequency conversion (not easy).

I used to be an Aircraft Electrician (for B-52's) and we had both three phase AC as well as DC power generated on the plane, but it was all series-parallel and long story short, way way different than house wiring/circuits.

Still keeping my fingers crossed I can just swap for a US version. I have an email out to Alphacool to verify whether a US version is even truly offered since I cant rely on the place I got it from for accurate information. The Alphacool blows all the other chillers out of the water performance wise (when you consider the price range). Just hoping its not due to the voltage it runs at! In the meantime I will focus on getting the memory sorted out. I have reports of a few others with my same kit who were able to get it working using the same motherboard and processor. All are running at overclocked, but manual timings which I couldnt try due to all the heat the AIO had to handle. I just got my water block seated and turned the system on (with no water hooked up) just to see if it posted still and if I got a steady increase in temps and it was looking really good! I let it get up to a reported 85C (which is 25C higher than real temps due to the built in offset) before shutting it down in order to get a good bond with the thermal compound and the block. It took a decent amount of time which is a good thing as the temps stayed low and the mass of the block was taking on the heat, so looks like I got a good mount.
 
The voltage is easy to overcome. I do have 220V available in the house, just not to the room in question. I have eight outlets that are each a dedicated 20A circuit in that room, so switching an outlet over to 220V is a piece of cake actually. The issue comes in changing the frequency of the AC to 50Hz rather than 60Hz. I appreciate the info you sent though as it verified what I thought as far as doing the frequency conversion (not easy).

I used to be an Aircraft Electrician (for B-52's) and we had both three phase AC as well as DC power generated on the plane, but it was all series-parallel and long story short, way way different than house wiring/circuits.

Still keeping my fingers crossed I can just swap for a US version. I have an email out to Alphacool to verify whether a US version is even truly offered since I cant rely on the place I got it from for accurate information. The Alphacool blows all the other chillers out of the water performance wise (when you consider the price range). Just hoping its not due to the voltage it runs at! In the meantime I will focus on getting the memory sorted out. I have reports of a few others with my same kit who were able to get it working using the same motherboard and processor. All are running at overclocked, but manual timings which I couldnt try due to all the heat the AIO had to handle. I just got my water block seated and turned the system on (with no water hooked up) just to see if it posted still and if I got a steady increase in temps and it was looking really good! I let it get up to a reported 85C (which is 25C higher than real temps due to the built in offset) before shutting it down in order to get a good bond with the thermal compound and the block. It took a decent amount of time which is a good thing as the temps stayed low and the mass of the block was taking on the heat, so looks like I got a good mount.

So you have the abilities to do some of what may be necessary yourself! (y)

Looks like a mod will be necessary, since the Alphacool site only states a 220v version. German made, European voltage. Here is a link to a site that has alottastuffalphacool.
You could see if they know of a solution to your issue. Although I hope the manuf's reply with a workable one.

Amazing when a product known for their better tech cant get it together when another voltage "standard" isnt supported. Worldwide market, but its a flat earth since only Europe can use it :banghead:

Dont you just hate that :confused:

If you could and not void the warranty, open it up and see if its a compressor or a motor "connected" to a compressor. Refridgs, usually have an all in one module. If its not, shouldnt cost major bucks to find a equivalent 120v motor to do the job.

Would look really, really cool(npi) to be able to say you additionally modded the cooling to make your project work. The [H] would have the thread of your project. Some site that I dont really know much about...cough,cough(guru3d), may take it as the mod of the month......cough, cough.

Cool project, but seems like cooling is the sticky point.

Do you have a cool (another pun not intended........or was it?) story about working on B-52's, related to how you got into building computers? Might be a cool way to understand your dedication to perfection.

Looking forward to your next update.
 
If you could and not void the warranty, open it up and see if its a compressor or a motor "connected" to a compressor. Refridgs, usually have an all in one module. If its not, shouldnt cost major bucks to find a equivalent 120v motor to do the job.
I was thinking along the same lines but given the units compact size I would imagine it is a sealed compressor. Too bad...
 
So you have the abilities to do some of what may be necessary yourself! (y)

Looks like a mod will be necessary, since the Alphacool site only states a 220v version. German made, European voltage. Here is a link to a site that has alottastuffalphacool.
You could see if they know of a solution to your issue. Although I hope the manuf's reply with a workable one.

Amazing when a product known for their better tech cant get it together when another voltage "standard" isnt supported. Worldwide market, but its a flat earth since only Europe can use it :banghead:

Dont you just hate that :confused:

If you could and not void the warranty, open it up and see if its a compressor or a motor "connected" to a compressor. Refridgs, usually have an all in one module. If its not, shouldnt cost major bucks to find a equivalent 120v motor to do the job.

Would look really, really cool(npi) to be able to say you additionally modded the cooling to make your project work. The [H] would have the thread of your project. Some site that I dont really know much about...cough,cough(guru3d), may take it as the mod of the month......cough, cough.

Cool project, but seems like cooling is the sticky point.

Do you have a cool (another pun not intended........or was it?) story about working on B-52's, related to how you got into building computers? Might be a cool way to understand your dedication to perfection.

Looking forward to your next update.

Latest update:

I took a look inside the chiller and I do believe I could do the conversion of swapping the motor over. I started looking for suitable replacements and low and behold, I found the man behind the curtain. :) I don't want to spoil anything yet, but lets just say I found the REAL manufacturer of these chillers and they are not German.. Not even European... And they have a 110V version.... **AND** I was able to get a BRAND NEW ONE SHIPPED TO MY HOME FOR LESS THAN HALF THE PRICE I PAID FOR THE ALPHACOOL!!!!! So lets just say that I ordered one......... Maybe I will have to start selling these myself? There are a couple tiny things that need to be changed to get it to work but its definitely in my wheelhouse of expertise. So the Threadripper *IS* getting chilled after all!

Also have my water block installed and using the Koolance setup to cool for the time being. Temps are really good! I have not tried going over 4GHz yet but I have had long stints where the UEFI has automatically turbo boosted me to 4.88GHz (according to system monitor). Not sure that I believe that entirely (like, maybe a 1% chance that's actually true) but I did have the auto-overclock stuff on as well as thermal throttling dialed down, so anything is possible.

I will send you a PM on some of my background. Its not like its entirely 100% top secret, but its off topic so figured I would reach out individually.... :) But yes, I did learn some things from my B-52 days. In fact, the ECM system (Electronic Counter Measures) is actually SUBMERGED in non-conductive fluid. There is also a turbine powered cooler (off the exhaust) that uses rapid expansion to massively (and quickly) cool air temps which gets used for breathable air inside the plane. It cools the air by several hundred degrees instantaneously! Its an interesting plane since everything on it was designed such a long time ago. Way more mechanical vs. a modern airframe. One example is the cabin pressure system. There is a dial in the cockpit that you turn to set what "simulated" elevation (air pressure) you want the inside to run at. The switch is literally hooked up to cables and pulleys that connect up to plastic bags with plastic orifices of different sizes that allow the air to flow to an outflow valve on the sides of the plane. So, the system that keeps you alive and basically stops you from passing out are some garbage bags with holes in them.. :)

EDIT: Here is a sample of temps and load. I turned SMT off, but that's itt... See how the clocks don't match??

temps.jpg
 
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