I need your 2nd opinion in a design issue of a PSU fan flow

[Happy Hopping]

I already asked the case modifier of the above about this. I just want a 2nd opinion.

From the top photo: the PSU fan is on the right. It is sucking air IN. So it is sucking in the warm air within the case along with a small amt. of ambient air at the gap between the case.

The bottom photo is the other side of the case. You can see there is a large opening there at the top, that's where the PSU is sucking the air from the case.

The ONLY fans to draw cool ambient air in IS the front fans, where you can put 3 x 120 mm fan, as well as the bottom 2 x 140 mm fan that I'll be installing. So the case modifier of the above said at the top fan, it has to be an exhaust fan, if it draw air in, it will fight w/ the PSU fan.

Is there any other choices?

Because if not, then the only intake fan would be 2 x 120 mm fan at the front. Assuming we are not going to bother build a top 120 mm fan next to the PSU fan, as that would be pointless.

 

[N4CR]

Rotate the PSU and suck cold air from the left hand side...?
I have dual PSUs and just re-drilled the backplate so one is upside down and other is normal way up, because they didn't design it for 120mm psus (e.g bottom one would be restricted), it's a 90s E-ATX removable motherboard/everything case that people seem to pay gazillions for the same functions today.

 

[Happy Hopping]

Is it safe to drill? what is behind those 4 "to-be-drilled" holes? Has anyone done this before? Because the new PSU I plan to buy, is that new Thermaltake iRGB, and that little thing is a few hundred $ w/ 10 yr. warranty. I hate to drill it and damage something inside.

1 other question, if we leave things the way it is, would it be wise to install a plastic plate at that hole, so the PSU will only suck in ambient temperature from the gap instead of warm air from the inside of the PC? or in the case of heavy game play, hot air

 

[N4CR]

Is it safe to drill? what is behind those 4 "to-be-drilled" holes? Has anyone done this before? Because the new PSU I plan to buy, is that new Thermaltake iRGB, and that little thing is a few hundred $ w/ 10 yr. warranty. I hate to drill it and damage something inside.

1 other question, if we leave things the way it is, would it be wise to install a plastic plate at that hole, so the PSU will only suck in ambient temperature from the gap instead of warm air from the inside of the PC? or in the case of heavy game play, hot air

I think really it might only slightly affect longevity, mostly capacitors. So like... 5-10% at most? A plate could work but you'll find that exhaust air will envelope the area pretty well.

Try rotating the entire mounting plate before you drill it. It's only a PSU so 4 screws is heaps...
Worst case, drill the mounting plate for the offset hole on the PSU and just use three screws.

But you have a nice case so might not want to do ghetto mods lol. What is it btw? Inwin? My knowledge of cases is about zero because I have not needed to replace it in 15 years lol


Oh fuck just re-read what you asked, DONT DRILL the PSU lol.

Drill the mounting bracket. Drilling the PSU would void warranty and destroy things if you didn't know what you're doing. Not easy... like drilling an engine block without pulling it to bits, you have to take care for all the aluminium shavings and anything inside.

 

[Happy Hopping]

oh, you mean drill my red mounting bracket of the case? This is a $400 case, but I'm willing to try it, that's a good idea. Thank you very much

It's a Jonsbo MOD1 case at jonsbo.com

 

[Happy Hopping]

I think this should work. I have done a test fit on a generic PSU. Like you said, 2 of the screw holes fits. So I just have to drill 1 hole.

As a result, there is a lot of room for the PSU fan to suck in very cool ambient temperature outside, the gap is wide. So the PSU doesn't have to suck in warm/ hot air from the inside of the case.

As to the inside of the case, I'll going to put a fan there at the top. It will suck in cool air at the gap created by the PSU back side. The gap is about 2 to 3 mm. But it reminds me of the Antec P100, where the front door is closed, and it's about a 2 to 3 mm gap, but a lot of cool air comes in thru the outside.

This is fantastic solution, thank you very much once again