SENTRY: Console-sized gaming PC case project

At Ej24:


Since I will order the Kryonaut for other projects as well (my PS4 slim will receive a treatment), I can also use this. It has been reviewed as the "best" non-liquid metal based thermal paste. This fits the theory as the MX-4 has a thermal conductivity of 8.5 W/mK, the Thermakl Grizzly Kryonaut 12.5 W/mK, the ASV 8.9 W/mK and the Conductonaut even 73 W/mK.
https://hardforum.com/attachments/tim-comparison-2015-overclocking-guide-4-png.16540/
Interesting graph.

I am currently using this system mainly as a test which thermal properties I can handle and which noise trade-offs I have to take care of. I will then buy the Sentry, if it is available, and build a new setup from scratch. Annoyingly I cannot use liquid metal on my GPU for testing: aluminum heatsink.
 
Fingers crossed, this Sat. will be 8 weeks from getting my tracking number. Hopefully next week it arrives.
 
kirkclick said:
I did it! I had changed the direction of Noctua L9i for AM4! Now the temperature has decreased. By the way, you still need the Noctua's AM4 screw and the backplane. I use a 12 X 12 aluminium profile and 4 riveting pressure screws, and here is the drawing if someone wants to build things like this. Also thanks SaperPL for his help!

My build is:
Ryzen 1700
Noctula NH L9i Homemade kit
Gigabyte GA-AB350N-Gaming WIFI （upgrade 3165 to 8265 ）
Ballistix Elite 3000 8GB*2
SanDisk Extreme II 480GB SSD
HGST 1TB 2.5’‘ 7200RPM HD
Colorful 1080Ti CH
SilverStone SX600-G


View attachment 30460
View attachment 30461
View attachment 30463
View attachment 30464
Click to expand...

you are the only person (that i see) that has the closest build to what I'll be building. with the new orientation of your L9i how are the temps for the CPU? the colorful 180ti is open air right? do you happen to have the temps of both cpu and gpu pre and post L9i orientation change? do you have your case set up vertically?
 
beneken said:
great... even more waiting. and the gpu prices did rise by ~150€ in the passed week (at least in germany). I hate this hobby :(
Click to expand...

I'm sorry to hear that you hate it, mate.

I hope you haven't returned it yet, though, because there's an easier, faster solution!

The MSI Aero OC used a reference PCB. That means that fixing the thermals is as easy as finding a founders' edition cooler (and just the cooler) to put on your card.

In the United States, I found them on Ebay (online "bidding" platform) for about $40. I bet you that you can find them on alibaba for about the same.
 
Finished my parts list for entry of my build. Plan to add more and mess around with thermals once I get my case and can see temps.
Ryzen 1600
Noctua lpi
Asrock x370
Corsair vengeance 16g
MX300 ssd 525g
Sf600
Gtx 1080ti sc2 black

For the future I will probably add some fans to gpu compartment and figure out a way to segregate the gpu and CPU areas Add more storage
Probably mess around with the T318. I have been checking it out and figuring out ways to possibly get excellent CPU temps. Definatly going to create wind tunnels for the gpu so it can only take in fresh air from the side vent. I will post pics and give info on the graphics card solution. Haven't seen much besides fe 1080 ti feedback and the one 1080 ti sc but they said there delta was f$&@"& cold. Not sure if they stuck it in there freezer or what.
 
Cabblake said:
Finished my parts list for entry of my build. Plan to add more and mess around with thermals once I get my case and can see temps.
Ryzen 1600
Noctua lpi
Asrock x370
Corsair vengeance 16g
MX300 ssd 525g
Sf600
Gtx 1080ti sc2 black

For the future I will probably add some fans to gpu compartment and figure out a way to segregate the gpu and CPU areas Add more storage
Probably mess around with the T318. I have been checking it out and figuring out ways to possibly get excellent CPU temps. Definatly going to create wind tunnels for the gpu so it can only take in fresh air from the side vent. I will post pics and give info on the graphics card solution. Haven't seen much besides fe 1080 ti feedback and the one 1080 ti sc but they said there delta was f$&@"& cold. Not sure if they stuck it in there freezer or what.
Click to expand...

Did you get the noctua l9i, which you listed, or the l9a, which is the one you need with ryzen?
 
Mendeln said:
i followed the instructions exactly plus the individual resistors for 12V (R=560Ohm, G=470Ohm, B=470Ohm). my asus board have this 12V RGB Header which i use.
Click to expand...

Did you add those resistors on to the R+, G+, and B+ or did you use those resistors in replacement of the 1k Ohm resistors? I want to double check before I send this out to get printed for my Sentry. =D
 

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Hey yall.

I searched the whole thread, but couldn't find any information on whether the G.Skill Flare X series (RAM) is going to fit in the sentry.

Does someone know if it would fit theoretically, or even tested it out on their own?

EDIT: The Heatspreader is 40mm high, i think.
 
NTRX_ said:
Hey yall.

I searched the whole thread, but couldn't find any information on whether the G.Skill Flare X series (RAM) is going to fit in the sentry.

Does someone know if it would fit theoretically, or even tested it out on their own?

EDIT: The Heatspreader is 40mm high, i think.
Click to expand...
I hope it fits. I spent $200 on that RAM. I'll know tomorrow when I build in the Sentry.
 
I was about to say... I sure hope so as I already ordered it and they make the fastest Ryzen RAM right now. If it doesn't you can always replace the heat spreader.
 
NTRX_ said:
Hey yall.

I searched the whole thread, but couldn't find any information on whether the G.Skill Flare X series (RAM) is going to fit in the sentry.

Does someone know if it would fit theoretically, or even tested it out on their own?

EDIT: The Heatspreader is 40mm high, i think.
Click to expand...


From ZABER's site:


Memory Compatibility:
  • Standard profile DIMM modules
  • Max 31.4mm tall pcb/34mm with heatspreaders
  • Tall modules will obstruct 2.5" drive bracket

It should fit, but you won't be able to user the drive bracket.

You can check the positioning on this photo:
DSC_19572.JPG
 
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Should I buy the Fractal Design Node 202 at this point or should I let you guys torture me for a few more years before this product will finally be available to buy? I was working in Africa for a year now, that's why I didn't backed the campaign, but I will go home in 9 days, and I don't want to see my tiny components in the 35L case anymore.
 
treasury said:
Should I buy the Fractal Design Node 202 at this point or should I let you guys torture me for a few more years before this product will finally be available to buy? I was working in Africa for a year now, that's why I didn't backed the campaign, but I will go home in 9 days, and I don't want to see my tiny components in the 35L case anymore.
Click to expand...

Honestly I'm not that impressed with the Node 202. The gpu bracket is utterly terrible. And overall it's not that small. It feels flimsy, big and hollow. I say lurk around here until you hear of someone that no longer needs or wants their sentry.
 
defrow said:
you are the only person (that i see) that has the closest build to what I'll be building. with the new orientation of your L9i how are the temps for the CPU? the colorful 180ti is open air right? do you happen to have the temps of both cpu and gpu pre and post L9i orientation change? do you have your case set up vertically?
Click to expand...

1.Temps are same but the fan speed drops about 300 RPM, the temp of IO side is 25% more heat than the RAM side, so I think the best way is let the U-shaped heat pipe opening direction same with RAM side.

2.No, the colorful 1080TI CH has the vapor chamber cooler, same with Founders Edition. I consider FE perform better than Open Air in this small case.

3.https://hardforum.com/threads/lp-sff-cooler-mounting-adaptors-for-am4.1929996/

4.Yes, my case is set up vertically.
 
If you don't want to choose any of the slim cases and are considering going to cube, check out the Corsair 250D.
 
Morzy said:
If you don't want to choose any of the slim cases and are considering going to cube, check out the Corsair 250D.
Click to expand...

The 250D is 28 liters... hardly a SFF case anymore. For a cube the best one is probably the Sugo SG13 at 10.6L. I got one, after a lot of consideration, and there's no other cube of this size that works as well.

24pgztv.jpg
 
kyjol said:
The 250D is 28 liters... hardly a SFF case anymore. For a cube the best one is probably the Sugo SG13 at 10.6L. I got one, after a lot of consideration, and there's no other cube of this size that works as well.
Click to expand...

I say the 250D because to me it seems like a viable option for a home server case, if he will need one. Or a watercooled ITX case if he'll ever be into that. It's a good case and a step up from the Sentry if he ever wanted to go a little larger.
 
JISAKU_TARO's SENTRY BUILD

So I put my case together a week or so ago, but wanted to share a detailed update.

My goals for this build were quiet and cool. Let's see how I do.

I had been undecided about Ryzen vs Kaby Lake but when the SENTRY case finally showed up I decided that I was sick of waiting. The only AMD ITX motherboard on sale here in Japan was the Biostar, and so I just decided to go buy the Intel this time.

I got a decent deal from a shop called DosPara in Akihabara, since I bought both the CPU and motherboard from them as a set. The prices are probably not that much different from NewEgg but it is always fun to walk out of the store with a deal.

The guy also gave me a deal on the RAM. Later I figured out that he only showed me the white ones because they probably were not selling well versus the other colors. :confused: But I'm okay with white.

IMG_20170708_114353.jpg

ASRock Z270M-ITX/ac
i7 7700k delidded
CFX Ballistix 32GB
ZOTAC GTX 1060 Amp!
Thermolab LP53 CPU Cooler + Noctua A9x14
Silverstone SFX 600W SX600-G
an old Samsung 840 SSD 250Gb [bought 4 years ago]
DR ZABER SENTRY case



Delidding The CPU

I wanted a fast CPU for gaming but I didn't want it to run hot. So for the i7 7700k I wanted to try delidding.

(There's a legitimate argument to be made that the 7700k is overkill for my build and what I will use it for. And that de-lidding is overkill on top of overkill. But... It's been nearly 5 years since I've done a new build and I was honestly going crazy... kept putting the 1080ti in and out of my shopping cart so many times. :rolleyes:)

I looked into it and it seemed like a huge pain, though. I'd have to buy a tool to help me delid the CPU and then do all this fine, detailed work. Well, I'd rather just get down to gaming. I did watch some Youtube videos about it and found this Japanese guy who was popping heat spreaders off with a vise and doing an incredibly detailed workshop. Turns out he will do it for you, via mail order, for just a little more than it would have cost me to import the delidding tool.

So I sent the money and dropped my brand new CPU into the mailbox and waited a week.

The CPU was delidded and a coating of liquid metal Conductonaut was applied under the heat spreader before it was re-attached.

The CPU came back with a listing of the before/after temps, a coating of Kryonaut thermal grease, and a bag of crackers. The crackers are a local specialty and it was a nice touch.

delid-package.png

The CPU Cooler and Fan

For the CPU Cooler I got the LP53, replacing the stock fan with the Noctua A9x14 fan.

I have a cousin in Korea who actually ordered the LP53 for me, so I didn't have to go through Ebay. I've never seen it on sale here in Japan except for a couple price gougers on Amazon.co.jp. Picked up the Noctua fan locally.

Putting it together

So last week my wife, who is the best in the world, and also sitting right next to me right now, and I built the case. More accurately, I held everything in place while she did all the assembly.

The SENTRY case is so nice to work with. It's solid, firm, the sides don't flex or dent. It took a bit to sort out which screws in the bags match the instructions (marked A B C D) and there seemed to be lots of extra screws.

I was also worried that I should have bought the proper size hex wrench, but the included hex wrench turned out to be good enough for us and it was no problem at all.

Putting the Silverstone SF600 power supply in was straightforward. The orientation of the socket is opposite of the Sentry cable, but it works just fine.

I was hoping to orient the LP53 on the ASRock Z270M-itx/ac motherboard so that the cooling fins would be parallel to the memory sticks, but there just isn't room. The heat pipes stick out on either side so there is really only 1 way it would fit on the motherboard.

IMG_20170708_130003.jpg

I'd previously asked about how to attach the fan to the LP53, as it was not obvious to me how to do it. I got some copper wire. After trying several things my wife suggested just looping it around the heat pipes and then twisting the wire to tighten. This worked really well, and the fan is really secure. After trimming the excess wire it looks pretty good too. There is not a lot of clearance between the RAM and the LP53!

IMG_20170708_134145.jpg IMG_20170708_161621.jpg

We installed the CPU and then attached the cooler. The LP53 comes with 4 screws and 4 white plastic washers that you definitely shouldn't forget to use. Once we sorted that out the cooler/fan/cpu was installed and attached securely.

Before attaching the motherboard, I put in the IO shield and ran the CPU 8pin power cable under the motherboard area. The 8 pin is the only cable that is a bit far from the power supply -- if you run this underneath it makes the cabling really easy.

Attaching the GPU

I installed the PCIe riser by feeding it in from the GPU compartment, through the narrow slot. It did not fit at first but by gently sliding a screwdriver into the slot I was able to flex it enough to insert. It was very easy and took just a few moment to slide through. Once the male side was inserted into my motherboard, I added the screws in the GPU compartment to hold it in place.

The Zotac 1060 AMP! fits in Sentry just fine. I was worried about the clearance of the power cables but it turned out just fine. The ZOTAC dimensions are 210mm x 128mm. But the power connector is about 10mm lower than the max clearance of the heatsink/plastic cover. so it was no problem getting the 6-pin power plug in.

The Zotac card is short too, so there was plenty of space for the extra SATA power cables. Would be much tighter with a full length card.

IMG_20170708_161714.jpg

Almost done -- just attaching the cables, and installing the bracket for my Samsung 840 SSD. The SSD still does the job though and let me spend money on other things.

RESULT

After setting up the SENTRY I have moved it down next to the TV. It looks good and there have been no complaints so that is a huge success.

The temps are good -- CPU doesn't get above 75 degrees, and when idle is between 45-50. The GPU gets up to 82 degrees when gaming or doing benchmarks. For browsing websites the GPU is at 50 degrees which means the fan doesn't even spin so it is quiet.

I hit the cool part of my target I think, and with the exception of the power supply also got it pretty quiet between the GPU and the Noctua fan.

IMG_20170708_161530.jpg IMG_20170709_091156.jpg IMG_20170709_091845.jpg IMG_20170709_091746.jpg

WHAT I WOULD DO DIFFERENTLY

I posted separately on this, but the Silverstone SX600 power supply is unfortunately a bit noisy. I'm not sure if I got one with a bad fan but I am not too happy with it. I plan on swapping it out as soon as I get an order in for Custom cables.


FUTURE PLANS
- replace the Silverstone SX600 with a Corsair SFX power supply, and get Custom cables
- Samsung NVME SSD for the M.2 slot (Christmas?)
- may upgrade the graphics card at some point. Maybe when NVidia releases Volta?


OVERALL

The SENTRY case is what makes this build special. In such a nice small attractive package, I can put together a full power PC.

I'm really so pleased with this case. Thank you DR ZABER! (and feel free to use the case photos in the next newsletter)
 
Last edited:
jisaku_taro said:
JISAKU_TARO's SENTRY BUILD

So I put my case together a week or so ago, but wanted to share a detailed update.

My goals for this build were quiet and cool. Let's see how I do.

I had been undecided about Ryzen vs Kaby Lake but when the SENTRY case finally showed up I decided that I was sick of waiting. The only AMD ITX motherboard on sale here in Japan was the Biostar, and so I just decided to go buy the Intel this time.

I got a decent deal from a shop called DosPara in Akihabara, since I bought both the CPU and motherboard from them as a set. The prices are probably not that much different from NewEgg but it is always fun to walk out of the store with a deal.

The guy also gave me a deal on the RAM. Later I figured out that he only showed me the white ones because they probably were not selling well versus the other colors. :confused: But I'm okay with white.

View attachment 30639

ASRock Z270M-ITX/ac
i7 7700k delidded
CFX Ballistix 32GB
ZOTAC GTX 1060 Amp!
Thermolab LP53 CPU Cooler + Noctua A9x14
Silverstone SFX 600W SX600-G
an old Samsung 840 SSD 250Gb [bought 4 years ago]
DR ZABER SENTRY case



Delidding The CPU

I wanted a fast CPU for gaming but I didn't want it to run hot. So for the i7 7700k I wanted to try delidding.

(There's a legitimate argument to be made that the 7700k is overkill for my build and what I will use it for. And that de-lidding is overkill on top of overkill. But... It's been nearly 5 years since I've done a new build and I was honestly going crazy... kept putting the 1080ti in and out of my shopping cart so many times. :rolleyes:)

I looked into it and it seemed like a huge pain, though. I'd have to buy a tool to help me delid the CPU and then do all this fine, detailed work. Well, I'd rather just get down to gaming. I did watch some Youtube videos about it and found this Japanese guy who was popping heat spreaders off with a vise and doing an incredibly detailed workshop. Turns out he will do it for you, via mail order, for just a little more than it would have cost me to import the delidding tool.

So I sent the money and dropped my brand new CPU into the mailbox and waited a week.

The CPU was delidded and a coating of liquid metal Conductonaut was applied under the heat spreader before it was re-attached.

The CPU came back with a listing of the before/after temps, a coating of Kryonaut thermal grease, and a bag of crackers. The crackers are a local specialty and it was a nice touch.

View attachment 30651

The CPU Cooler and Fan

For the CPU Cooler I got the LP53, replacing the stock fan with the Noctua A9x14 fan.

I have a cousin in Korea who actually ordered the LP53 for me, so I didn't have to go through Ebay. I've never seen it on sale here in Japan except for a couple price gougers on Amazon.co.jp. Picked up the Noctua fan locally.

Putting it together

So last week my wife, who is the best in the world, and also sitting right next to me right now, and I built the case. More accurately, I held everything in place while she did all the assembly.

The SENTRY case is so nice to work with. It's solid, firm, the sides don't flex or dent. It took a bit to sort out which screws in the bags match the instructions (marked A B C D) and there seemed to be lots of extra screws.

I was also worried that I should have bought the proper size hex wrench, but the included hex wrench turned out to be good enough for us and it was no problem at all.

Putting the Silverstone SF600 power supply in was straightforward. The orientation of the socket is opposite of the Sentry cable, but it works just fine.

I was hoping to orient the LP53 on the ASRock Z270M-itx/ac motherboard so it would be parallel to the memory, but there just isn't room. The heat pipes stick out on either side so there is really only 1 way it would fit on the motherboard.

View attachment 30641

I'd previously asked about how to attach the fan to the LP53, as it was not obvious to me how to do it. I got some copper wire. After trying several things my wife suggested just looping it around the heat pipes and then twisting the wire to tighten. This worked really well, and the fan is really secure. After trimming the excess wire it looks pretty good too. There is not a lot of clearance between the RAM and the LP53!

View attachment 30643 View attachment 30645

We installed the CPU and then attached the cooler. The LP53 comes with 4 screws and 4 white plastic washers that you definitely shouldn't forget to use. Once we sorted that out the cooler/fan/cpu was installed and attached securely.

Before attaching the motherboard, I put in the IO shield and ran the CPU 8pin power cable under the motherboard area. The 8 pin is the only cable that is a bit far from the power supply -- if you run this underneath it makes the cabling really easy.

Attaching the GPU

I installed the PCIe riser by feeding it in from the GPU compartment, through the narrow slot. It did not fit at first but by gently sliding a screwdriver into the slot I was able to flex it enough to insert. It was very easy and took just a few moment to slide through. Once the male side was inserted into my motherboard, I added the screws in the GPU compartment to hold it in place.

The Zotac 1060 AMP! fits in Sentry just fine. I was worried about the clearance of the power cables but it turned out just fine. The ZOTAC dimensions are 210mm x 128mm. But the power connector is about 10mm lower than the max clearance of the heatsink/plastic cover. so it was no problem getting the 6-pin power plug in.

The Zotac card is short too, so there was plenty of space for the extra SATA power cables. Would be much tighter with a full length card.

View attachment 30646

Almost done -- just attaching the cables, and installing the bracket for my Samsung 840 SSD. The SSD still does the job though and let me spend money on other things.

RESULT

After setting up the SENTRY I have moved it down next to the TV. It looks good and there have been no complaints so that is a huge success.

The temps are good -- CPU doesn't get above 75 degrees, and when idle is between 45-50. The GPU gets up to 82 degrees when gaming or doing benchmarks. For browsing websites the GPU is at 50 degrees which means the fan doesn't even spin so it is quiet.

I hit the cool part of my target I think, and with the exception of the power supply also got it pretty quiet between the GPU and the Noctua fan.

View attachment 30644 View attachment 30648 View attachment 30649 View attachment 30650

WHAT I WOULD DO DIFFERENTLY

I posted separately on this, but the Silverstone SX600 power supply is unfortunately a bit noisy. I'm not sure if I got one with a bad fan but I am not too happy with it. I plan on swapping it out as soon as I get an order in for Custom cables.


FUTURE PLANS
- replace the Silverstone SX600 with a Corsair SFX power supply, and get Custom cables
- Samsung NVME SSD for the M.2 slot (Christmas?)
- may upgrade the graphics card at some point. Maybe when NVidia releases Volta?


OVERALL

The SENTRY case is what makes this build special. In such a nice small attractive package, I can put together a full power PC.

I'm really so pleased with this case. Thank you DR ZABER! (and feel free to use the case photos in the next newsletter)
Click to expand...


Awesome build log and such informative notes! Not only that, but you top it all off with a Family Pack of ミレービスケット. (Wife and I used to live in Japan and this takes us back.) Awesome work and enjoy that Sentry!
 
flaphead said:
While we all are waiting for the Sentry, I want to add a few words about sound in this case. I suppose that a majority of builders will use it for gaming with headphones and without external sound card, but the case hasn't a front audio panel. It's not a big deal, you will say, every mobo has a green headphone output on a rear panel. Yes, it has, but this output is directly connected to audio controller and it can't provide enough current for low impedance loads. And I'm not talking about audiophile stuff like midrange colorations; it's obvious to almost every listener that sound from rear green output is pathetic due to overload of controller. Thus there is a special operational amplifier for headphones in mid and high range mobos which is able to give a HiFi sound quality without external sound card. The issue is this amplifier directly connects to a header for front audio panel.
My asus z170i pro gaming mobo is shown in the figure 1, it has audio controller Realtek ALC1150, operational amplifier RC4580 from Texas Instruments and decoupling capacitor Nichicon SW 100uF 16V (yes, just one cap for ground wire). Components are good enough to achieve nice sound quality but only if headphones connected through the header for front audio panel (pin definition is shown in the figure 2). So I think to instal aditional jack socket at the sentry back panel (and maybe replace op amp to OPA 2134 and cap to Nichicon FG) because sound difference is significant.
View attachment 19103 View attachment 19104 View attachment 19105
Click to expand...


I recently added mini jack socket into my Sentry. It's standart front panel headphone socket from old pc and needed to file down a little bit with a sandpaper. After that socket nicely fits into any Sentry back hole.
I hope, It will be helpful for someone.
20170715_123238.jpg 20170715_125048.jpg 20170715_130657.jpg 20170715_130742.jpg 20170715_133637.jpg
 
Id liked to see before and after delidding temps for the 7700k. You dont plan to overclock, I assume?
 
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I've seen many test results on this thread with different coolers. Can someone give a straight answer on the following question?

What is currently the best cooler for the AM4 socket without modding? It is the only part of my build where I'm still not sure what to buy
 
The guy in the video says the card will hit 80°+ degrees while gaming. I suppose that is in a regular case... so it's probably not usable in the sentry?
 
beneken said:
The guy in the video says the card will hit 80°+ degrees while gaming. I suppose that is in a regular case... so it's probably not usable in the sentry?
Click to expand...

80° C is THE TARGET TEMPERATURE for modern GPUs

What matters are the core/turbo clocks unless you have card with supreme cooling, in a case that have induced airflow, and card hits the power limit while it's still efficiently cooled enough not to hit 80° C
 
mgungodzjupjb6pw84m8.png


Sentry manufacturing process - weekly update​


5th transport of cases is almost ready for shipment. As we wrote in the last update, this week all Sentry elements were screwed together and packed into their printed carton boxes.


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f3i0sdb7ec4wbp6iyllb.jpg


uh0jdlkpxyapwnyqrscm.jpg

​

There is still some work to do with transport boxes, while shipping papers and customs documents are already prepared. We are getting ready to start preparations for assembling 6th transport of cases (6 out of 7).

While we are working hard to deliver you your Sentry, backers who already received their units are showing their photos of unique setups they made with their cases. It's nice to watch how this SFF community grows up. Everyday we see more and more new people willing to join our forums topics and to share their experiences with others. It's really, really great :)

Just like in some of previous updates, below we are posting photos made by our supporters. And as usual, you can find more in our forums:



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pwvfw3uzpbe99msnvngh.jpg
 
How long does it actually take to ship the product? The last I heard about it was on June 12th "Item arrived 2017-06-12 10:19 WER Pruszcz Gd." I live in the United States on the east coast. Is there an ETA for these kinds of packages?
 
Shadyace25 said:
How long does it actually take to ship the product? The last I heard about it was on June 12th "Item arrived 2017-06-12 10:19 WER Pruszcz Gd." I live in the United States on the east coast. Is there an ETA for these kinds of packages?
Click to expand...

Welcome to the party. Last I heard was on May 29th "Sent from Poland 2017-05-29 09:03 WER Pruszcz Gd." and I too live on the east coast. Just be patient. There is nothing they can do.
 
StevenMattera said:
Welcome to the party. Last I heard was on May 29th "Sent from Poland 2017-05-29 09:03 WER Pruszcz Gd." and I too live on the east coast. Just be patient. There is nothing they can do.
Click to expand...

Lol just seeing people with all their cases makes me want mine!! I get it though, and these guys have been pretty trustworthy so I'm not scared I won't get my product. Just wanted to know if there were shipping estimates.
 
Shadyace25 said:
Lol just seeing people with all their cases makes me want mine!! I get it though, and these guys have been pretty trustworthy so I'm not scared I won't get my product. Just wanted to know if there were shipping estimates.
Click to expand...
Did you read the previous weekly update?
ZombiPL said:
gnaok8ctmbuayxebhz8l.png


Sentry manufacturing process - weekly update​


Today we want to answer 5 most common questions from the last few weeks. Let's start:


1) My package was sent several days ago and i still didn't get it. Why it takes so long? I live outside Europe.

About 90% of packages for backers living outside Europe are being sent by ship. It means your package will have to travel through the sea and it will take several weeks.

2) You sent 1st shipment. How long is the "real-life" delivery time, which you measured?

a) EU delivery (based on 4 transports):
~70% within 5 days,
~85% within 7 days,
~100% within 10 days,

b) Non-EU countries outside European continent (average for whole world, based on 1st shipment):
~65% within 6 weeks,
~75% within 7 weeks,
~80% within 8 weeks,
- about 20 packages from this transport still weren't described as "delivered", so at this moment we can't say what is the max waiting time.

3) What should I do if my package was sent and after many weeks my tracking information still says only "Sent from Poland"?

Please contact with your nearest post department and ask them which customs services office should receive your package after shipping from Poland (tracking number should be enough for them). After that you should contact that customs office. Those two institutions aren't updating their tracking information as often as they should, and your package can stay at their warehouse for weeks while you think it's still on a ship.

Example: Yesterday (8.07.2017) USPS updated information for several packages saying "Item arrived to the delivery office - 12.06.2017. Almost a month later...

4) Why you didn't give an option to choose more expensive transport?

Indiegogo didn't allow us to do it. We were allowed to use only one transport option for each country and we picked the one which was the cheapest among those which included online tracking and insurance.

5) Paper manual included in Sentry box isn't enough for me. Do you have something more informative?

Yes, we have. On every paper manual we have a web address and QR-code leading to our online manual. You can also find it here: http://zaber.com.pl/sentry/manual.pdf



Other standard news:
- we are at the stage of screwing steel Sentry bodies for 5th transport,
- accessory boxes for this shipment are ready,
- this week we will be packaging everything into printed carton boxes and then into transport boxes.
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There were further updates posted within this thread shortly after the weekly update as well.
ZombiPL said:
Just few minutes ago USPS updated information for several packages from 5th of May. It means if your package was sent on 25th of May then you may need to wait a little bit longer, because it is very probable that USPS or US customs services can still keep your package without giving each other any information about it. If we knew US and customs postal system works in such way we would never pick this form of transport. At this moment the only side who can give you/us the proper information is the USPS or your local customs service office. This is the only information we have from our transport company representative. We can start a refund procedure with USPS and Poczta Polska, but we were informed we will be waiting for answer up to 3 months (because of slow actions taken by USPS) and within that time almost all packages are being delivered. I'm not sure it is worth it, if now it looks like delivery can be a matter of days if not hours...

I just checked everything once again, and from those missing packages today USPS updated tracking for 9 of them. It means for USA there are still something like 6 packages which are waiting for their registration in USPS system.
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ZombiPL said:
incuriniker said:
We're over 8 weeks from time of shipping, and I still haven't received mine, although the tracking info has finally started updating again. Others received their cases much faster. So as far as an estimate...it looks like anywhere from 2 to 9 weeks from the time it leaves Poland. I'm not sure why the shipping company is telling Dr. Zaber to tell us to contact USPS. They tell you absolutely nothing that you can't see for yourself from the tracking. Unless customs specifically contacts you about the shipment, you will not get any further information about it being held, for any reason. You'll just have to sit tight until it arrives. If it doesn't, you should buckle up for a (likely) 5-6 month wait while the claim gets sorted out.
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I think we couldn't describe this whole situation any better... :(

incuriniker said:
I'm not sure why the shipping company is telling Dr. Zaber to tell us to contact USPS.
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The answer to this question showed up few days ago:

One of our backers went to USPS office on 7th of July (2017-07-7 Friday) and asked about his package. They said they don't have it and they don't know anything about such package. Another day his tracking number was updated with information: "Item arrived to the delivery office 2017-06-12". It means that, his package was held in the warehouse for almost a month but no one decided to register it into the system. Our influence on USPS in such situation is almost none. It's the worst contact with the transport company we have ever had. We can only wait and constantly scare them with a refund claims (which we are doing all the time). Fortunately tracking information for most missing packages showed up again, so at least we know those packages weren't lost.
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Last edited:
blaight said:
Id liked to see before and after delidding temps for the 7700k. You dont plan to overclock, I assume?
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I don't plan to overclock, however the guy who did my delid sent before/after stats of my CPU.
He did a slight overclock to 4.5Ghz on a test bench using the ASROCK Z170OCF motherboard.

test 1 4.5Ghz Prime95[Blend] 1.28V Test (compare before/after delid)
■88.50→69.75℃度　最高MAX温度 18.75℃低下／平均AVG温度 15.50℃低下 5分05秒 (5 minutes)
■97.25→75.75℃度　最高MAX温度 21.50℃低下／平均AVG温度 15.00℃低下 7分10秒 (7 minutes)

test 2 4.5Ghz Prime95[Blend] 1.28V Test (after delid)
■15分時点最高温度　 MAX 77.0℃度　(Highest temp after 15 minutes)
■15分時点平均温度　 AVR 64.5℃度 　(Avg temp after 15 minutes)

test 3 4.5Ghz CINEBENCHI[Multithread] Test (before/after delid)
◆84.00→68.25℃度　最高MAX温度 15.75℃低下／平均AVG温度 12.75℃低下
 
Has anyone built with the x370 asrock board. It just came in today and I had ordered the nhl9i and it doesn't look like it's going to fit.
 
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