NCASE M1: a crowdfunded Mini-ITX case (updates in first post)

Today I changed my water loop, with a few 45° connections and I replaced my two Noctua NF-P12 fans with two Noiseblocker NB-eLoop B12-PS fans and can't believe, but these eLoop fans much quieter at same rpm and cooling few degress improved as my well loved Notcua fans, thanks again -H1N1- for the hint few weeks ago alreay.

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Today I changed my water loop, with a few 45° connections and I replaced my two Noctua NF-P12 fans with two Noiseblocker NB-eLoop B12-PS fans and can't believe, but these eLoop fans much quieter at same rpm and cooling few degress improved as my well loved Notcua fans, thanks again -H1N1- for the hint few weeks ago alreay.

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Looks good and Noiseblocker FTW.
 
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Today I changed my water loop, with a few 45° connections and I replaced my two Noctua NF-P12 fans with two Noiseblocker NB-eLoop B12-PS fans and can't believe, but these eLoop fans much quieter at same rpm and cooling few degress improved as my well loved Notcua fans, thanks again -H1N1- for the hint few weeks ago alreay.

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Nice cable management too!
 
anybody have fitting issue with the arctic accelero xtreme iii ? the heatsink sticks out to the front preventing me from closing the front cover. I have a evga 970 ssc.

any ideas on what i should do? I would like to keep the accelero setup, the temperature was 63c at load compare to 81c stock.
You'll notice that on your card the die is shifted back further than most GPUs and that's the reason for your fitment issue. See if you can return the Accelero and look at an alternative. The Raijintek Morpheus II might fit, but you should measure first.
 
I went with Aliexpress for my cables also, very pleased with the way they look. You sure can't beat the price.

I went with PCIe 300mm
24 pin 300mm
4+4 EPS 400mm.
The 400mm is plenty on the 4+4 and like you said you could go shorter with the 24 pin.

Do you guys have links to the producs you ordered? Also, this is for the SF600, right?

Today I changed my water loop, with a few 45° connections and I replaced my two Noctua NF-P12 fans with two Noiseblocker NB-eLoop B12-PS fans and can't believe, but these eLoop fans much quieter at same rpm and cooling few degress improved as my well loved Notcua fans, thanks again -H1N1- for the hint few weeks ago alreay.

Would you recommend the Noiseblockers as bottom fans also? I have two Noctua NF-F12 fans at the bottom, below the Strix, and I also am not completely happy. I need three new fans, one side-fan to blow in air for my U9S CPU cooler, and two bottom fans. I have thought about purchasing beQuiet Silent Wings 3 for all position, but with your post I'm not sure whether I should go with the Noiseblockers on the bottom (or all three areas) or not. What's your recommendation?
 
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Would you recommend the Noiseblockers as bottom fans also? I have two Noctua NF-F12 fans at the bottom, below the Strix, and I also am not completely happy. I need three new fans, one side-fan to blow in air for my U9S CPU cooler, and two bottom fans. I have thought about purchasing beQuiet Silent Wings 3 for all position, but with your post I'm not sure whether I should go with the Noiseblockers on the bottom (or all three areas) or not. What's your recommendation?

No I would not use them at bottom, these eLoop are fans great for pushing air through a radiator at push orientation. Important is that no near obstacle are behind these fans (like a filter or mesh), that make them more noisy than Noctua P12 fans. At bottom these Noctua P12 fans in my setup generate less noise even connected on ground which we have the mesh obstacle, btw. the noise will always worse compared to the side fan placement. Even you use exact the same fans at bottom and side, the fans at bottom at least from my testing need 200-300 rpm less fan speed, to generate the same subjective noise as fans connected at the side.Your Noctua F12 perform worse than my Noctua P12 fans (I have all regular Noctua fans, F12, P12, S12A and A15 tested) if this F12 fans are not used at a cooling block or radiator, like if you use them as case fan at bottom to improve air to your GPU, they are more noisy, they need like the eLoops a push orientation and directly connected at a cooling block or radiator for best cooling and noise results, if the pull air with no resitense, the get more noisy.,

Here a few expamles from my old air cooling setup.

GPU cooler: Arctic Cooling Accelero Xtreme (AMD RX 470 @ 1.3 Ghz) + passive backplate from old 1-HE CPU block full copper for VRM area
CPU cooler: Noctua NH-C14 (Intel i7 3770 @ 4.1 Ghz)
Room temp at 23°C

Option 1 (Push/Push)

option1.png

04ckst5.png


Two 140mm Noctuca NF-A15 (max. 750-800 RPM) at bottom and one Noctua NF-F12 (CPU max. 850-900 RPM) + one Noctua NF-S12A (Case max. 750-800 RPM) at side. A good balance of cooling performance and noise.

CPU at load (Max): 53°C
GPU at load (Max): 63°C

Option 2 (Push/Push)

option2.png


Two 140mm Noctuca NF-A15 (max. 750-800 RPM) at bottom and two Noctuca NF-P12 (CPU+Case max. 900-950 RPM) at side. Worst setup with temps and noise compared to the other two.

CPU at load (Max): 55°C
GPU at load (Max): 66°C

Option 3 (Push/Pull)

option3.png


CPU at load (Max): 56°C
GPU at load (Max): 51°C

Four 120mm Noctuca NF-P12 (max. 1050-1100 RPM) at bottom and side. Even this has highest rpm of these 3 setups, these are subjective less noisy than the other two and for the GPU at bottom the temps are by pull the air out not push in the case improved at lot, slighty higher CPU temps, but still under 60°C at full load.
 
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Do you guys have links to the producs you ordered? Also, this is for the SF600, right?



Would you recommend the Noiseblockers as bottom fans also? I have two Noctua NF-F12 fans at the bottom, below the Strix, and I also am not completely happy. I need three new fans, one side-fan to blow in air for my U9S CPU cooler, and two bottom fans. I have thought about purchasing beQuiet Silent Wings 3 for all position, but with your post I'm not sure whether I should go with the Noiseblockers on the bottom (or all three areas) or not. What's your recommendation?

https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20170424160806&SearchText=SF600+cables Yes for the SF600, but they also work on the SF450.
 
You'll never see the color of the fans inside of the Ncase haha. They do also make a non PWM version that is black in color by the way. It's a good fan. I'm very happy with how my setup turned out. Never thought it'd accommodate an overclock so high.

Very true, but I'll still know that they're there :p.

TL;DR on my ventures with slim 120s. It could be the Prolimatech fans, but I couldn't stand their noise past 60% in conjunction with the STRIX Ti cooler. I have a feeling some of that noise was caused by the resistance of the dust filters at the bottom, but I'm simply not going to run filter-less on my bottom intake :eek:.

I *WILL* say however that the fan controller for the Asus utility is pretty nifty, if not a bit limited. The card is nice, but is going to be sold (maybe traded if I can find someone willing to part with one of the Ti SC2s -- I have a high suspicion that this card will be a best case scenario for size and noise).

well, difficult to answer !
I can compare only what i have tested, i did not test the one you are looking to.

Air Noctua NH-C14 is very good in temps and noise, perfecly adaptated to the ncase, but you have to change the 140mm fans by 120mm as i've done if you want to push pull and also to put a second 120 on the lateral panel.
nh-c14 is expensive and tends to be difficult to find actually as it's not sold anymore. If you add the price of 2 good 120mm pwm fan, it starts to be an expensive air solution.

I can compare to AIO kelvin S24 (240mm) and Corsair H60 (120mm) as i've tested both.

I think 120mm will definitly not be enough for an i7 OC, i had tested it in push pull also (see my thread), it wasn't able to keep under heavy loads at good temps so it became very noisy. May be it would be OK with a stock i5.



Kelvin S24 240mm was tested in 2 fans on one side, as you are not able to push pull a 240mm rad in the Ncase with standard 25mm fans (but possible with slim fans...). It was really good in temps, maybe be 5° or 10° cooler than the air C14 rad in bench ful load.
In iddle or very low loads, very often AIO pumps make more noise compared to an air solution, or you have to choose an AIO on which the pumps can be PWM regulated, it's not often the case.
the kelvin S24 is not very noisy for sure, but it's not totally silent, so if you work all the day on you computer it can be annoying, but you only play in the evening it will not disturb at all.

AIO can also be different to air when you open your case to change a part. The rad will hang unless you remove the block pump from CPU, but you will have access to RAM, GPU, etc... the NH-C14 will have to be removed at each time you want to change something as it really cover everything around him. I cant' remove the GPU without removing the air cooler. But it's very simple to remove, so not a real pb.


I'm not sure to understand, do you speak of the rubber that fit between the NH-C14 and the noctua fan ?



in fact this is not rubber, this is compact foam. This is a simple foam tape (like adhesive) you can find everywhere in makeshift/DIY stores. This is on sidded adhesive, 3mm thickness, i added 2 one above the other to complete the gap.

you can look at pages 4-5-6 on my thread, i had done a lot of picture, i do not want to over load this thread with my pics !
http://forum.hardware.fr/forum2.php...rint=0&numreponse=0&quote_only=0&new=0&nojs=0

I'm going to guess that's because it's an H60 vs my H75, but I see similar temps to yours with just a single fan in a pull configuration on my setup. This is with a hotter (but delidded) 4770K. After what I recall as 5+ hours of straight gaming the other day on my system, my hottest core (Core#0) peaked at 66C.

Do you guys have links to the producs you ordered? Also, this is for the SF600, right?



Would you recommend the Noiseblockers as bottom fans also? I have two Noctua NF-F12 fans at the bottom, below the Strix, and I also am not completely happy. I need three new fans, one side-fan to blow in air for my U9S CPU cooler, and two bottom fans. I have thought about purchasing beQuiet Silent Wings 3 for all position, but with your post I'm not sure whether I should go with the Noiseblockers on the bottom (or all three areas) or not. What's your recommendation?

Which STRIX? If you're speaking of the Ti, then standard 120x25 fans will not fit underneath.


These are the ones I did as well.
 


I have the 1080 Strix myself. Was not happy with temperatures and noise at all during load. I have yet to delid my 7700k (ordered a new one). But meanwhile during gaming, the CPU reaches 80C as well as the GPU, despite two NF-F12 fans below it.

I decided to remove the fan shroud from the Strix today, and also change the orientation from the NF-F12 to blow air outside of the fan. I was very skeptical to this, as I remember reading some people in here getting bad results. But after around 10 min of FurMark, I actually ended up at 76C load for the GPU with the fans at around 1300 RPM. That's very, very good. Both better noise and temperatures than with the additional Strix fans. The only thing bothering me right now is the coil whine from the GPU.

What I'm trying to figure out now is whether I should change my F12 fans with P12, as AG1M, and also find a way to put the fans directly into the heatsink of the GPU. Right now the gap between the fans and the heatsink is too big imo. I may end up purchasing a custom heatsink down the road, but I have never changed heatsinks on GPU before, though...

Btw, how in the hell did you manage to attach anti-vibration mounts to the fans at the bottom? I tried fitting them for about an hour before I gave up and just went with screws.
 
I want to move down the GPU by 1 slot to give a bit more room on PSU cables (I have SFX-L with modules.) Any PCI-E riser do you guys recommend?
 
I have the 1080 Strix myself. Was not happy with temperatures and noise at all during load. I have yet to delid my 7700k (ordered a new one). But meanwhile during gaming, the CPU reaches 80C as well as the GPU, despite two NF-F12 fans below it.

Yes my i7 is also delid, the best change ever, this very crappy CPU package out-of-the-box from Intel is a pain. Also undervolting the CPU helps a lot (even with slight overclocking it's fine, higher overclock need higher voltage, but normally around 200 Mhz more than stock should be fine with undervolting), with a delided CPU you need less voltage compared to the same CPU not delided and you get addtional lower temps.

I decided to remove the fan shroud from the Strix today, and also change the orientation from the NF-F12 to blow air outside of the fan. I was very skeptical to this, as I remember reading some people in here getting bad results. But after around 10 min of FurMark, I actually ended up at 76C load for the GPU with the fans at around 1300 RPM. That's very, very good. Both better noise and temperatures than with the additional Strix fans.

Yes the main issue is that the hot air need to be out from the internal case, if not the entire GPU getting hotter and hotter, even with a good big heat sink is installed this helps not too much. My EVGA SC GTX1070 reaches over 80°C quiet easy in the Ncase M1, no stable 2 Ghz possible and loud... I moved to my Alphacool waterblock for the GTX1070 now it's hard to hit 41°C under full load and always 2 Ghz stable, but yes water is a different story. For a small card like my old AMD RX470 air cooling was not a big problem, but a GTX1080 is a different beast.

What I'm trying to figure out now is whether I should change my F12 fans with P12, as AG1M, and also find a way to put the fans directly into the heatsink of the GPU. Right now the gap between the fans and the heatsink is too big imo. I may end up purchasing a custom heatsink down the road, but I have never changed heatsinks on GPU before, though...

I don't think you will gain a lot if you just cange from F12 fans to P12 fans, sure it will be bit less noisy, but not so huge impact, that it's worth to spend 40 bucks just for two new fans. It's not that easy with GPU at the bottom area, even with a big custom heatsink no guarantee you will be happy, I tested a lot and it was mostly trial&error.

Btw, how in the hell did you manage to attach anti-vibration mounts to the fans at the bottom? I tried fitting them for about an hour before I gave up and just went with screws.

It's magic I'm a wizard, just kidding :LOL: First you put this anti-vibration mounts from the bottom trough bottom grid from the Ncase M1, than you place your fans on the ground and you need a helpful tool like a small pliers to catch the top of the anti-vibration mount and you need be careful pull it up, make this 4 times very patient and the job is done for fan number one, the 2nd fan is bit more tricky since you have no room left, but this works the same way, good luck.
 
I want to move down the GPU by 1 slot to give a bit more room on PSU cables (I have SFX-L with modules.) Any PCI-E riser do you guys recommend?
I've had good luck with the LiHeat and HDPLEX risers. For example, here's LiHeat (edit: 150mm B.type):

liheat1.jpg

liheat2.jpg
 
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Question for the dual rad NCASE boys. Fans for the bottom rad - Push or pull, intake or exhaust? I've tried both but my attempt with using pull was when I had a EK SE on the bottom so any temp difference (which was like 10 °C) I would chalk up to switching to a HWL GTS. Wondering if anyone did some testing before I start breaking down my loop constantly.
 
Question for the dual rad NCASE boys. Fans for the bottom rad - Push or pull, intake or exhaust? I've tried both but my attempt with using pull was when I had a EK SE on the bottom so any temp difference (which was like 10 °C) I would chalk up to switching to a HWL GTS. Wondering if anyone did some testing before I start breaking down my loop constantly.

Mine are push - exhaust. I found my temps were higher going the other way, although to be fair i was doing pull on that one. Rear radiator is also push exhaust.
Although push/pull are basically the same, there are some articles that suggest push is marginally better at low speed on some radiators. It's too close to call definitively...
 
Mine are push - exhaust. I found my temps were higher going the other way, although to be fair i was doing pull on that one. Rear radiator is also push exhaust.
Although push/pull are basically the same, there are some articles that suggest push is marginally better at low speed on some radiators. It's too close to call definitively...

I've definitely noticed that pulling air through the rads into the case has a "hot boxing" effect. So I've had my side rad as exhaust for awhile. I'll try push exhaust again and see what happens. I feel like the slim fans would struggle pulling air through the bottom rad if they were in a pull/exhaust config.
 
This inspired me to test a few options for myself. The noise generated from anything except for bottom as exhaust was too much for my setup, not that the fans were running more however - the air flow was definitely a noisy affair. Also, my CPU temps were bad using CPU HSF/Side as exhaust bottom as intake, even though GPU temps dropped 5-7C, CPU temps were +10-15C. Not acceptable for my setup and with the added noise I switched back. So, my final setup is still - Side/rear/cpu intake, bottom GPU exhaust.

No I would not use them at bottom, these eLoop are fans great for pushing air through a radiator at push orientation. Important is that no near obstacle are behind these fans (like a filter or mesh), that make them more noisy than Noctua P12 fans. At bottom these Noctua P12 fans in my setup generate less noise even connected on ground which we have the mesh obstacle, btw. the noise will always worse compared to the side fan placement. Even you use exact the same fans at bottom and side, the fans at bottom at least from my testing need 200-300 rpm less fan speed, to generate the same subjective noise as fans connected at the side.Your Noctua F12 perform worse than my Noctua P12 fans (I have all regular Noctua fans, F12, P12, S12A and A15 tested) if this F12 fans are not used at a cooling block or radiator, like if you use them as case fan at bottom to improve air to your GPU, they are more noisy, they need like the eLoops a push orientation and directly connected at a cooling block or radiator for best cooling and noise results, if the pull air with no resitense, the get more noisy.,

Here a few expamles from my old air cooling setup.

GPU cooler: Arctic Cooling Accelero Xtreme (AMD RX 470 @ 1.3 Ghz) + passive backplate from old 1-HE CPU block full copper for VRM area
CPU cooler: Noctua NH-C14 (Intel i7 3770 @ 4.1 Ghz)
Room temp at 23°C

Option 1 (Push/Push)



Two 140mm Noctuca NF-A15 (max. 750-800 RPM) at bottom and one Noctua NF-F12 (CPU max. 850-900 RPM) + one Noctua NF-S12A (Case max. 750-800 RPM) at side. A good balance of cooling performance and noise.

CPU at load (Max): 53°C
GPU at load (Max): 63°C

Option 2 (Push/Push)



Two 140mm Noctuca NF-A15 (max. 750-800 RPM) at bottom and two Noctuca NF-P12 (CPU+Case max. 900-950 RPM) at side. Worst setup with temps and noise compared to the other two.

CPU at load (Max): 55°C
GPU at load (Max): 66°C

Option 3 (Push/Pull)


CPU at load (Max): 56°C
GPU at load (Max): 51°C

Four 120mm Noctuca NF-P12 (max. 1050-1100 RPM) at bottom and side. Even this has highest rpm of these 3 setups, these are subjective less noisy than the other two and for the GPU at bottom the temps are by pull the air out not push in the case improved at lot, slighty higher CPU temps, but still under 60°C at full load.
 
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Ok a heads up for anyone water cooling in the ncase. Aquacomputer makes a really nice block for the 1080/1070, looks good and cools really well. I really, really don't recommend using one in this case.

As you can see in the pics you can't use fittings on the top or it blocks mounting the radiator. Using the bottom mounts made it really tricky to connect to the reservoir. I had to use several adapters to be able to clear the radiator and make sure the side panel went on.

Ended up working out and it does a great job cooling my 1070, just a real pain. Should have gone with the Koolance.

What fittings did you need to connect the GPU to the res? Looks like a 90 -> tubing -> snake fittinng (90? 45?) and then I can't see anymore :)


Also, thinking of rad setups for the bottom of the NCASE. Keep the fact that it has very restrictive airflow in mind.. Would a 120mm rad with a 25mm GT fan provide better cooling over a 240mm rad with 2x 15mm fans that don't push or pull as much air. Or does surface area > airflow in this case?
 
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Well my journey continues. I overnighted a 1080Ti SC 'BE' that should be here tomorrow in the AM. After my extreme luck with the previous ACX SC 1080, I'm hoping (and really confident) this will be the same.
 
Good luck p3z! I'll be waiting for the 2070 myself. I like the lower draw and investment cycle of the x70 series cards (After I took a huge loss on a 980Ti, I'll be sticking to this)
 
On radiator I used before two Noctua NF-P12 at 850 to 950 (max) rpm, now two Noiseblocker NB-eLoop B12-PS at 950 to 1050 (max) rpm (quieter as Noctua fans). At bottom I kept two Noctua NF-P12 at 650-700 (max) rpm, on bottom they are great at low rpm.
 
Good luck p3z! I'll be waiting for the 2070 myself. I like the lower draw and investment cycle of the x70 series cards (After I took a huge loss on a 980Ti, I'll be sticking to this)

Grazi!

And a bit of an update. I got the card in there pretty quick (FE cards and this EVGA card fit removed/fit in without me even having to take the side bracket off -- first big score of the day :D.

Card is wonderful! It's an 'OK' overclocker, but it held steady at 1987Mhz on BF1 after about 30-45 minutes. CPU peaked at 67C, but stayed around 60-65 the whole time. But the best part is the card. Fan speed stayed under 50% and kept the card at a max of 70C. The card literally flopped between 45-50% fan speed and the temps did the same between 69C and 70C. HUGE improvement over what I had to do for the STRIX. So a slightly worse OC'er, but an overall cooler and quieter GPU for this scenario.

Only downside I came across was that I was getting some sag, but this could be more of my mobo slot...who knows. This caused a slight bit of fan interference on the shroud. So to remedy, I put a rubber bump stop on my intake fan's fan shroud where it lined up with the GPU's shroud and voila.

Pics or it didn't happen, eh?

EDIT: Changed that first pic as apparently there was another film of plastic I hadn't yet removed.

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813138452 First AMD itx board has appeared on Newegg, listed as out of stock but should be there soon. Not too sure about Biostar, but the price is very good.

I'm thinking of upgrading soon-ish, and would really like to go Ryzen. I'm really hoping we see a board with 2 M.2 slots, built in wifi/BT and of course a great layout. I would be ok with a single m.2, but I have yet to see a leak of this layout :/.
 
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Grazi!

And a bit of an update. I got the card in there pretty quick (FE cards and this EVGA card fit removed/fit in without me even having to take the side bracket off -- first big score of the day :D.

Card is wonderful! It's an 'OK' overclocker, but it held steady at 1987Mhz on BF1 after about 30-45 minutes. CPU peaked at 67C, but stayed around 60-65 the whole time. But the best part is the card. Fan speed stayed under 50% and kept the card at a max of 70C. The card literally flopped between 45-50% fan speed and the temps did the same between 69C and 70C. HUGE improvement over what I had to do for the STRIX. So a slightly worse OC'er, but an overall cooler and quieter GPU for this scenario.
What card? 1080 Ti? Cards with full external exhaust are best in such a small case.
 
Grazi!

And a bit of an update. I got the card in there pretty quick (FE cards and this EVGA card fit removed/fit in without me even having to take the side bracket off -- first big score of the day :D.

Card is wonderful! It's an 'OK' overclocker, but it held steady at 1987Mhz on BF1 after about 30-45 minutes. CPU peaked at 67C, but stayed around 60-65 the whole time. But the best part is the card. Fan speed stayed under 50% and kept the card at a max of 70C. The card literally flopped between 45-50% fan speed and the temps did the same between 69C and 70C. HUGE improvement over what I had to do for the STRIX. So a slightly worse OC'er, but an overall cooler and quieter GPU for this scenario.

Only downside I came across was that I was getting some sag, but this could be more of my mobo slot...who knows. This caused a slight bit of fan interference on the shroud. So to remedy, I put a rubber bump stop on my intake fan's fan shroud where it lined up with the GPU's shroud and voila.

Pics or it didn't happen, eh?

EDIT: Changed that first pic as apparently there was another film of plastic I hadn't yet removed.



I'm thinking of upgrading soon-ish, and would really like to go Ryzen. I'm really hoping we see a board with 2 M.2 slots, built in wifi/BT and of course a great layout. I would be ok with a single m.2, but I have yet to see a leak of this layout :/.

Hopefully Asus does an AM4 itx board, they are the only ones doing the dual M.2 slots so far so they would be the best bet.
 
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What card? 1080 Ti? Cards with full external exhaust are best in such a small case.
What card? 1080 Ti? Cards with full external exhaust are best in such a small case.

I agree with this somewhat.

While technically true, the FE card's biggest downfall is noise. At stock fan profile it's perfectly fine. In fact it's more than fine. However, not running an OC on these Pascal cards is just lost/wasted performance.

My CPU temps are up on average of 2C with the EVGA card and noise levels are at their best (in a performance to noise level ratio).

Overall, I'm very satisfied and happy to make this my final GPU purchase for some time to come. Unless those custom color scheme ones turn out to be a better price than expected :eek:.
 
I agree with this somewhat.

While technically true, the FE card's biggest downfall is noise. At stock fan profile it's perfectly fine. In fact it's more than fine.
What is the RPM at 50%? I ask because I'm still on a 660 Ti and RPM is 1890 at 50% and that is when I begin to hear it and start to be annoying but no need to go there with fan curve I defined I can keep fan below 50% so I'm very curious to know on a 1080 Ti (with blower) what RPM it give when at 50%.

Also curious to compage a FE with other blower models like MSI Aero, ASUS Turbo but can't find anyone who tested both.

Overall, I'm very satisfied and happy to make this my final GPU purchase for some time to come.
Your signature shows a Strix but you traded it for another 1080 Ti right?
 
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