High End Build...help please.

Spaceye

n00b
Joined
Apr 15, 2017
Messages
19
These are only some parts I've been looking at. If you have any ideas on how to make it a better rig Id love to hear them. I could use all the help I can get so I can put the pc together before this pc dies on me.

Windows 10


Display:
43" 4k Monitor (Already bought)

CASE: (What can I say I love how big it is, if only it came with wings)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009QZH23S/ref=twister_B009VZ3YVC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1


MOBO:
(Where I need the most help..suggestions please!!)

1.https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSWF8L9/ref=twister_B01N0R...…
2.https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019U0VWKW?tag=cnet-viglink-2...

RAM:
(16GB DDR4 3200Mhz LED RAM??

1.https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M0GSOYC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER


SSD:
(Not Sure if I want to spend the extra $380 to get twice the performance yet, would be nice though. what do you guys suggest?)

1.https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JCXXRQO?tag=cnet-viglink-2...…
2.https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LWQ9LYV?tag=cnet-viglink-2...

CPU COOLER:

(Even though I would like to get one with a fan and heat sink for the looks it does seem a bit smarter to go with corsairs Liquid cpu cooler doesn't? If only it had some LED's to help light up the case.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019955RNQ?tag=cnet-viglink-2...


LGA 2011 CPU: 6800k or 6850k??
(Thinking of going with 6850k)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FJLA8NI?tag=cnet-viglink-2...

PSU:

1200Watt CoolerMaster Silent Pro Gold
 
As an Amazon Associate, HardForum may earn from qualifying purchases.

Not sure why it wouldnt let me add these questions to my first post but here are my answers in regards to asking for help.

I will be using the pc for 4k Gaming and movies, Photoshop, Light Video Editing.

My budget is $2,000 but prefer $1,500

USA, California.

Reusing these parts from my old pc...

GTX 960's,
Power Supply: 1200W Silent pro Gold Model# RS-C00-80GA-D3
and several internal Hard drives for storage.

I wont be overclocking.

Dell 43" 4k multiclient monitor P4317Q

I plan on building the pc asap

Motherboard features? Ummm..this is where I need the most help...I know Id like USB 3.0 and SLI support of course. As for the SATA please refer to the SSD's in my list.
 
No OC'ing?? Kill the water cooler and get a good cheap air cooler.

ASUS Formula has a better back I/O shield and hence my pick.

I like that case.

Take cash saved from cooler and buy the better CPU.

RAM seems OK. Check QVL for shits n grins.

That board uses those cute little gumstick SSD drives. Kill those on your list and get one of those instead.
 
I beg to differ from the response above when it comes to SSDs. If you're going to use an SSD as a boot drive, I'd recommend that you not get a PCIe or an m.2 NVMe SSD for that purpose: All of that performance advantage goes completely to waste in that application because the boot process relies mostly on small-block random read and write performance, and because most PCIe SSDs do not deliver any faster small-block random read and write performance than a SATA SSD. Large-block sequential read and write performance in a boot disk is relevant only if such performance is excruciatingly slow (say, only 20 MB/second).

By this measure, this eliminates the first SSD option on your list. As for your second choice, remember that the WD Blue SSD is more or less a rebranded SanDisk X400 SSD (WD bought SanDisk last year). There are better SATA SSDs out there than that WD/SanDisk SSD for the price.
 
Agree that water cooling is pointless with no overclocking.
It's not even any more quiet than a good air cooler.

Zero benefit to water.

.
 
No OC'ing?? Kill the water cooler and get a good cheap air cooler.

ASUS Formula has a better back I/O shield and hence my pick.

I like that case.

Take cash saved from cooler and buy the better CPU.

RAM seems OK. Check QVL for shits n grins.

That board uses those cute little gumstick SSD drives. Kill those on your list and get one of those instead.


I was looking at cooler masterair maker 8 high end cpu cooler
I beg to differ from the response above when it comes to SSDs. If you're going to use an SSD as a boot drive, I'd recommend that you not get a PCIe or an m.2 NVMe SSD for that purpose: All of that performance advantage goes completely to waste in that application because the boot process relies mostly on small-block random read and write performance, and because most PCIe SSDs do not deliver any faster small-block random read and write performance than a SATA SSD. Large-block sequential read and write performance in a boot disk is relevant only if such performance is excruciatingly slow (say, only 20 MB/second).

By this measure, this eliminates the first SSD option on your list. As for your second choice, remember that the WD Blue SSD is more or less a rebranded SanDisk X400 SSD (WD bought SanDisk last year). There are better SATA SSDs out there than that WD/SanDisk SSD for the price.

Hmmm so perhaps it be best to use the plextor as a storage drive for games and other files. Which SSD SATA drive would you recommend other than the one I mentioned?

I'm looking for a 500gb minimum.

Thanks.
 
I was looking at cooler masterair maker 8 high end cpu cooler


Hmmm so perhaps it be best to use the plextor as a storage drive for games and other files. Which SSD SATA drive would you recommend other than the one I mentioned?

I'm looking for a 500gb minimum.

Thanks.

I think what a lot of people are getting at is skip the Plextor style storage. Go SSD, either one big one or two smaller ones. Samsung Evo/Pro lines are great SSD's, Intel are also highly regarded so pick one of them that fits your size needs and call it a day.
 
I was looking at cooler masterair maker 8 high end cpu cooler


Hmmm so perhaps it be best to use the plextor as a storage drive for games and other files. Which SSD SATA drive would you recommend other than the one I mentioned?

I'm looking for a 500gb minimum.

Thanks.
Not even that purpose, I'm sorry to say. That PCIe SSD is really only needed for very large single files, such as videos. Games, documents and other files might be better suited to an old-school spinning-platter HDD (hard drive).
 
Not even that purpose, I'm sorry to say. That PCIe SSD is really only needed for very large single files, such as videos. Games, documents and other files might be better suited to an old-school spinning-platter HDD (hard drive).

Now wait a second...... lol

I would never encourage anybody to use a spinner drive when they want an SSD.
Spinner drivers need to die out and go away.

The system will boot much faster and be much more responsive regardless of system use and file sizes.

ETA: I see now that you may be referring to just a storage drive for the spinner, but still....
If SSD is in the budget, get an SSD.


.
 
Now wait a second...... lol

I would never encourage anybody to use a spinner drive when they want an SSD.
Spinner drivers need to die out and go away.

The system will boot much faster and be much more responsive regardless of system use and file sizes.

ETA: I see now that you may be referring to just a storage drive for the spinner, but still....
If SSD is in the budget, get an SSD.


.
Indeed, I was referring to the extra disk just for storage of less-frequently-used files.

And what I was trying to say is that unless one works with very large files such as video editing/rendering/exporting, an m.2 NVMe or PCIe SSD is a waste of money right now since it costs much more money than a SATA SSD of the same capacity.

And right now is not the best time to purchase an SSD because prices have been increasing over the past few months. For example, the 500 GB 2.5" SATA Samsung 850 EVO SSD went from about $150 in the middle of last year to $180 today.
 
Last edited:
Now wait a second...... lol

I would never encourage anybody to use a spinner drive when they want an SSD.
Spinner drivers need to die out and go away.

The system will boot much faster and be much more responsive regardless of system use and file sizes.

ETA: I see now that you may be referring to just a storage drive for the spinner, but still....
If SSD is in the budget, get an SSD.


.




As for storing files I have one 1T HD, a (400gb spinner drive my old pc came with)a 3T Seagate backup plus and a 4T seagate personal .

Why do I want the PCIe 1T ssd youre asking? As a ssd for my steam folder and movies.. but I will skip Perplex and will be going with a SATA SSD for my boot drive instead like you guys mentioned.
 
Last edited:
Here is a revision of the list of parts...love some suggestions for mobo guys. Not sure if the cpu cooler is compatible with AM4 though..it doesn't look like it.


Windows 10


Display:
43" 4k Monitor (Already bought)

CASE: (What can I say I love how big it is, if only it came with wings)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009QZH23S/ref=twister_B009VZ3YVC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

MOBO:
(Still need suggestions for mobo, should I go with AMD as well or does it matter?)

CPU:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06W9JXK4G/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

RAM:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M0GSOYC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

GPU:
2 GTX 960's (From old PC)

SSD:
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-75E1T0B-AM/dp/B00OBRFFAS/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1492364732&sr=1-1&keywords=samsung+850+evo&refinements=p_n_feature_three_browse-bin:6797521011


Storage:
1T WD Caviar Drive, 400Gb Spin Drive old PC came with for boot drive, a 3T Seagate backup plus and an external 4T seagate personal HD.

CPU COOLER:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B12DQ38/ref=crt_ewc_title_dp_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

PSU:
1200Watt CoolerMaster Silent Pro Gold
 
Last edited:
As an Amazon Associate, HardForum may earn from qualifying purchases.
Last edited:
I'm modifying your post to save a bit of time in the future...

Here is a revision of the list of parts...love some suggestions for mobo guys. Not sure if the cpu cooler is compatible with AM4 though..it doesn't look like it.

Windows 10
Display:
Dell P4317Q 43" 4k Monitor (Already bought)
CASE: NZXT Phantom 820
MOBO: (Still need suggestions for mobo, should I go with AMD as well or does it matter?)
CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 1800X
RAM: Corsair Vengeance LED 2x8GB DDR4 3200
GPU: 2 GTX 960's (From old PC)
SSD: Samsung 850 EVO 1TB SATA III SSD
Storage: 1T WD Caviar Drive, 400Gb Spin Drive old PC came with for boot drive, a 3T Seagate backup plus and an external 4T seagate personal HD.
CPU COOLER: Cooler Master MasterAir Maker 8 CPU Cooler
PSU: 1200Watt CoolerMaster Silent Pro Gold

As a cost-cutting measure, you don't need the Ryzen 7 1800X. While it's considerably cheaper than an Intel-based hex-core processor, the Ryzen 7 1700X and the "plain" 1700 (especially if you overclock it to 3.5GHz or higher) are better values. The base speeds of the 1700 and the 1700X are 3.0GHz (boost to 3.7GHz) and 3.4GHz (boost to 3.8GHz), respectively; the 1800X is 3.6GHz (boost to 4.0GHz).

Regardless, if you aren't going to overclock and you don't need a lot of motherboard features, then one board to consider is the MSI X370 SLI PLUS. I don't know at this time whether any of the B350-based boards support SLI.

One problem with the Corsair Vengeance LED RAM is that their tall heatspreaders can interfere with most tower-style CPU coolers. Assuming that you stick with the 1800X yet are not overclocking it, I recommend the Cryorig H7 if you want to stick with an tower cooler. (One caveat: You have to request an AM4 mounting kit through the manufacturer. It doesn't come with one right out of the box.) Otherwise, if you want to go with a liquid cooler, the Corsair H60 is fine.
 
As an Amazon Associate, HardForum may earn from qualifying purchases.
I'm modifying your post to save a bit of time in the future...



As a cost-cutting measure, you don't need the Ryzen 7 1800X. While it's considerably cheaper than an Intel-based hex-core processor, the Ryzen 7 1700X and the "plain" 1700 (especially if you overclock it to 3.5GHz or higher) are better values. The base speeds of the 1700 and the 1700X are 3.0GHz (boost to 3.7GHz) and 3.4GHz (boost to 3.8GHz), respectively; the 1800X is 3.6GHz (boost to 4.0GHz).

Regardless, if you aren't going to overclock and you don't need a lot of motherboard features, then one board to consider is the MSI X370 SLI PLUS. I don't know at this time whether any of the B350-based boards support SLI.

One problem with the Corsair Vengeance LED RAM is that their tall heatspreaders can interfere with most tower-style CPU coolers. Assuming that you stick with the 1800X yet are not overclocking it, I recommend the Cryorig H7 if you want to stick with an tower cooler. (One caveat: You have to request an AM4 mounting kit through the manufacturer. It doesn't come with one right out of the box.) Otherwise, if you want to go with a liquid cooler, the Corsair H60 is fine.

Well the thing is I don't OC and if I do, it will be quite a while before I start cause I don't feel like having any more problems than im already having with my current pc,, especially after having just built a new rig....besides I'm already saving a bit by not going with the $500+ Perplex SSD and the $500+Intel CPU so unless there is another reason other than saving a little money to get less performance I will go with the 1800x
 
Last edited:
As an Amazon Associate, HardForum may earn from qualifying purchases.
By the way, that build doesn't need a PSU that's rated for anywhere near 1200W.
Here is a revision of the list of parts...love some suggestions for mobo guys. Not sure if the cpu cooler is compatible with AM4 though..it doesn't look like it.


Windows 10


Display:
43" 4k Monitor (Already bought)

CASE: (What can I say I love how big it is, if only it came with wings)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009QZH23S/ref=twister_B009VZ3YVC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

MOBO:
ASUS ROG Crosshair VI Hero AMD Ryzen AM4

CPU:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06W9JXK4G/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

RAM:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M0GSOYC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

GPU:
2 GTX 960's (From old PC)

SSD:
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-75E1T0B-AM/dp/B00OBRFFAS/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1492364732&sr=1-1&keywords=samsung+850+evo&refinements=p_n_feature_three_browse-bin:6797521011


Storage:
1T WD Caviar Drive, 400Gb Spin Drive old PC came with for boot drive, a 3T Seagate backup plus and an external 4T seagate personal HD.
CPU COOLER:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B12DQ38/ref=crt_ewc_title_dp_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

PSU:
1200Watt CoolerMaster Silent Pro Gold
You still have not changed the CPU cooler. As Sparticus has noted, it is way overpriced for the actual cooling performance that it delivers, and also completely blocks all four DIMM slots and leaves woefully insufficient clearance for any RAM modules larger than ultra-low-profile modules that do not have any heat spreaders whatsoever (in other words, completely bare).

Okay, so the RAM issue is a bit overblown. But still, I do not see any value whatsoever for an air cooler that costs a whopping $114 that performs worse than some $40 to $50 coolers.

And I am assuming that you're going to be carrying over that 1200W PSU from an existing build. If you were buying a brand new PSU, that build does not need anywhere near that much wattage. With two GTX 960s, that Ryzen 7 1800X doesn't really need more than a 550W to 650W PSU that's of good quality. In fact, the 1200W Cooler Master PSU was of only average quality even when it was new.
 
Last edited:
As an Amazon Associate, HardForum may earn from qualifying purchases.
By the way, that build doesn't need a PSU that's rated for anywhere near 1200W.

You still have not changed the CPU cooler. As Sparticus has noted, it is way overpriced for the actual cooling performance that it delivers, and also completely blocks all four DIMM slots and leaves woefully insufficient clearance for any RAM modules larger than ultra-low-profile modules that do not have any heat spreaders whatsoever (in other words, completely bare).

Okay, so the RAM issue is a bit overblown. But still, I do not see any value whatsoever for an air cooler that costs a whopping $114 that performs worse than some $40 to $50 coolers.

My bad... watching game of thrones with my gf guess I got a lil distracted. :p
 
(Deleted previous post I made)

Here is a revision of all the parts... the 1200W psu I'm using I've had for a build I was going to do so Im using it on this build so it doesnt go to waste.


Windows 10


Display:
43" 4k Monitor (Already bought)

CASE:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009QZH23S/ref=twister_B009VZ3YVC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

MOBO:
ASUS ROG Crosshair VI Hero AMD Ryzen AM4

CPU:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06W9JXK4G/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

RAM:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0143UM4TC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

GPU:
2 GTX 960's (From old PC)

SSD:
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-75E1T0B-AM/dp/B00OBRFFAS/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1492364732&sr=1-1&keywords=samsung+850+evo&refinements=p_n_feature_three_browse-bin:6797521011


Storage:
1T WD Caviar Drive, 400Gb Spin Drive old PC came with for boot drive, a 3T Seagate backup plus and an external 4T seagate personal HD.

CPU COOLER:
Cryorig R1 Ultimate CR-R1A Dual Tower?

PSU:
1200Watt CoolerMaster Silent Pro Gold
 
Last edited:
As an Amazon Associate, HardForum may earn from qualifying purchases.
The 1700X costs about $400 for a 3.4GHz stock speed and the 1800X is close to $500 for 3.6GHz. They otherwise share the same specs. Do you believe that an additional 200MHz is worth a $100 premium?

I believe that the Asus ROG Crosshair VI Hero is overkill for your needs. Besides SLI support, what motherboard features do you need? (Stability is an obvious feature; no one here plans on recommending a bad board.)

The heatspreaders on the Vengeance LED RAM will obstruct your ability to properly mount the Cryorig R1. You'll need to either buy RAM with shorter heatspreaders (like the Corsair Vengeance LPX) or buy a different CPU cooler (like the aforementioned Corsair H60).

Have you purchased your Windows 10 license yet? Are you considering Windows 10 Pro?
 
Last edited:
As an Amazon Associate, HardForum may earn from qualifying purchases.
The 1700X costs about $400 for a 3.4GHz stock speed and the 1800X is close to $500 for 3.6GHz. They otherwise share the same specs. Do you believe that an additional 200MHz is worth a $100 premium?

I believe that the Asus ROG Crosshair VI Hero is overkill for your needs. Besides SLI support, what motherboard features do you need? (Stability is an obvious feature; no one here plans on recommending a bad board.)

The heatspreaders on the Vengeance LED RAM will obstruct your ability to properly mount the Cryorig R1. You'll need to either buy RAM with shorter heatspreaders (like the Corsair Vengeance LPX) or buy a different CPU cooler (like the aforementioned Corsair H60).

Have you purchased your Windows 10 license yet? Are you considering Windows 10 Pro?
The 1700X costs about $400 for a 3.4GHz stock speed and the 1800X is close to $500 for 3.6GHz. They otherwise share the same specs. Do you believe that an additional 200MHz is worth a $100 premium?

I believe that the Asus ROG Crosshair VI Hero is overkill for your needs. Besides SLI support, what motherboard features do you need? (Stability is an obvious feature; no one here plans on recommending a bad board.)

The heatspreaders on the Vengeance LED RAM will obstruct your ability to properly mount the Cryorig R1. You'll need to either buy RAM with shorter heatspreaders (like the Corsair Vengeance LPX) or buy a different CPU cooler (like the aforementioned Corsair H60).

Have you purchased your Windows 10 license yet? Are you considering Windows 10 Pro?

I get what you mean and no I don't think 200mhz is worth $140 premium over the 1700x but why not just get the higher clock cpu after I already saved $$ by going with AMD on the build....You're right tho I might put the $140 somewhere else.

Well... I might not be OC right now but I might start down the road after amd releases new cpus, I didn't know it had issues with stability. I was also looking at the ASRock fatalyt1 X370 pro gaming chipset, what other ones do you recommend? This is my first build so I'm a total noob when it comes to figuring out what chipset to look for. I just did a search for the best amd motherboards amd found a list. From what I gather not many of them support sli which makes picking one rather annoying, I do like all the USBs the crosshair has not gunna lie.

I need to make up my mind wether I want the led lighting on the ram and use a water cooler or buy a smaller heat sink.... I wouldn't mind eliminating having to clean the heat sink with compressed air tho. I kind of want to use a heat sink with fan for looks tho tbh.

In regards to the psu...I'd hate not putting the 1200W to use. You guys don't suggest to buy a different psu do you? I mean what could go wrong with using it on this build?

I have win 10 pro installed on my old pc so I'll probably use the license from this pc for the new rig, why?
 
Last edited:
As an Amazon Associate, HardForum may earn from qualifying purchases.
No OC'ing?? Kill the water cooler and get a good cheap air cooler.

ASUS Formula has a better back I/O shield and hence my pick.

I like that case.

Take cash saved from cooler and buy the better CPU.

RAM seems OK. Check QVL for shits n grins.

That board uses those cute little gumstick SSD drives. Kill those on your list and get one of those instead.

Which of the Asus formula chipset are you referring to?
 
 
Last edited:
As an Amazon Associate, HardForum may earn from qualifying purchases.
Ewwww. ASRock.

GL with that. Hope they are better than they used to be.
 
Last edited:
If you plan to spend $200 on a motherboard, don't go with ASRock....

Get an MSI/Asus board.
 
I'd go with the Gigabyte - X370 Gaming 5.

But, I'm partial to Gigabyte.
 
No OC'ing?? Kill the water cooler and get a good cheap air cooler.

ASUS Formula has a better back I/O shield and hence my pick.

I like that case.

Take cash saved from cooler and buy the better CPU.

RAM seems OK. Check QVL for shits n grins.

That board uses those cute little gumstick SSD drives. Kill those on your list and get one of those instead.

A

I would recommend selling your 960's and buy a proper 980ti or 1080 (ti) when possible. Your graphic cards will bottleneck your PC, especially in 4k (let alone in games not fully supporting SLI)
 
As an Amazon Associate, HardForum may earn from qualifying purchases.
A


I would recommend selling your 960's and buy a proper 980ti or 1080 (ti) when possible. Your graphic cards will bottleneck your PC, especially in 4k (let alone in games not fully supporting SLI)

I intend to wait for the new series gpus to buy one :) Any idea when nvidia will launch their next one anyone?
 
I intend to wait for the new series gpus to buy one :) Any idea when nvidia will launch their next one anyone?
I don't know at this current time. However, I'd still recommend getting rid of those 960s because the 960 is one of the few newer GPUs to actually underperform its predecessor (in this case, the GTX 760) in some of the graphics tests. In fact, I had a 960 FTW, and it wasn't sufficiently faster than the $150-ish GTX 750 Ti to justify its $220 price tag at the time that it was new.
 
Well... I might not be OC right now but I might start down the road after amd releases new cpus, I didn't know it had issues with stability. I was also looking at the ASRock fatalyt1 X370 pro gaming chipset, what other ones do you recommend? This is my first build so I'm a total noob when it comes to figuring out what chipset to look for. I just did a search for the best amd motherboards amd found a list. From what I gather not many of them support sli which makes picking one rather annoying, I do like all the USBs the crosshair has not gunna lie.

I need to make up my mind wether I want the led lighting on the ram and use a water cooler or buy a smaller heat sink.... I wouldn't mind eliminating having to clean the heat sink with compressed air tho. I kind of want to use a heat sink with fan for looks tho tbh.
You haven't mentioned any serious desire to overclock, so why plan for a future that may never come? I made my earlier recommendations because I saw that you planned on spending a lot of money for "performance" parts when you would have gained no advantage from using them. Based on your earlier posts, all you "needed" in a motherboard was SLI support. I didn't worry about USB 3.0 or SATA III because most modern ATX boards have those features built in.

Again, there is no reason for you to pursue a board that costs you at least $200. The money you spend on that is money that could be spent on a larger SSD or other newer, better parts.

Speaking of which, you need to decide on how badly you "need" the Corsair Vengeance LED RAM. There is no "both" in this case. If you want to stick with that RAM, then you need a liquid CPU cooler as most tower coolers won't fit properly. (Something tells me that you were never considering the Cryorig H7....) If you insist on having a tower cooler, ignoring for the moment that I wouldn't recommend that Cooler Master model, then you need to swap out the Vengeance LED for the Vengeance LPX or a different set of RAM with low-profile heatspreaders.

I have win 10 pro installed on my old pc so I'll probably use the license from this pc for the new rig, why?
If you have the OEM (or "System Builder") version of Windows 10, versus the retail version, then you may not be able to reuse your license on your new system. I say "may" because I've heard many stories of people successfully reusing their OEM license keys, but I've also heard of a lot of people who were unsuccessful.

Unless you have a retail version of Windows, I recommend that you buy another (unused) OEM license key for your new system.
 
IMG_8495_zps121exka3.jpg




IMG_8501_zpsxcpx0hlz.jpg


Finally got the parts and ended up going with the Asus ROG Crosshair for the motherboard and Thermaltake Water 3.0...some of you are saying whhyyy I know it!:LOL:

Also started using some paint I had to test it out on the inside panel of my XPS 720 case...I think I might go with it for the exterior:D



IMG_8502_zpsc8ijik7t.jpg


Can anyone recommend a good scratch proof epoxy coating or something I can use for the exterior after I paint the whole thing black??
 
Last edited:
Back
Top