DAN A4-SFX: The smallest gaming case in the world

Thanks for this piece of advice. How does a standard radiator GPU perform? After doing hours of research everyone seems to have their own opinion. Most of those are that blower style GPUs could potentially be a better fit. On the other hand, you are right about the prices and custom GPUs do perform a better value. I`m gonna watch out for a Gtx 1080ti custom with a blower style fan... this may be the conclusion.

You're welcome to do as you decide is best, but I'll just throw a couple points out there:

1) When nvidia first released the Founders' Edition 1070 and 1080, they were $100 (USD) more expensive than the aftermarket options, and in most cases, the custom, open-air coolers performed much better.

The Founders' Edition 1070s and 1080s are now cheap as heck. In fact, a FE 1070 is the fourth cheapest 1070 you can possibly buy, and is only $20 more than the dirt cheapest (which is a 'mini' board with poor cooling.)

2) The 1080ti Founders' Edition is exactly the same price as all the aftermarket cards.

3) While open-air coolers usually perform better than blower coolers, that's if they're in a large case with a lot of airflow.

In a small-form-factor case that doesn't pack additional fans, all they will do is recirculate hot air, leading to higher CPU temps but very, very little decrease in GPU temps.

4) I'm sorry, but waiting for another company to slap a blower-style cooler on a 1080ti is a terrible idea. First, the FE card is already one of the most affordable.

Second, Nvidia put a TON of time and engineering into the FE coolers; they run far quieter and perform WAY better than reference cards ever did in the past.

By waiting for another company to put a blower style cooler on a 1080ti (which is probably unlikely anyways), all you'd be doing is saving about $20 (on a $700 card) to get a way noisier cooler that doesn't perform as well.


So, to wrap it up... Good for you for doing your own research. That's the kind of drive you need to work with small-form-factor computers. Unfortunately, a lot of that research comes from either before Nvidia reworked their reference design to be what it is now, or from when Pascal was first released, when FE cards really were poor value.
 
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You're welcome to do as you decide is best, but I'll just throw a couple points out there:

1) When nvidia first released the Founders' Edition 1070 and 1080, they were $100 (USD) more expensive than the aftermarket options, and in most cases, the custom, open-air coolers performed much better.

The Founders' Edition 1070s and 1080s are now cheap as heck. In fact, a FE 1070 is the fourth cheapest 1070 you can possibly buy, and is only $20 more than the dirt cheapest (which is a 'mini' board with poor cooling.)

2) The 1080ti Founders' Edition is exactly the same price as all the aftermarket cards.

3) While open-air coolers usually perform better than blower coolers, that's if they're in a large case with a lot of airflow.

In a small-form-factor case that doesn't pack additional fans, all they will do is recirculate hot air, leading to higher CPU temps but very, very little decrease in GPU temps.

4) I'm sorry, but waiting for another company to slap a blower-style cooler on a 1080ti is a terrible idea. First, the FE card is already one of the most affordable.

Second, Nvidia put a TON of time and engineering into the FE coolers; they run far quieter and perform WAY better than reference cards ever did in the past.

By waiting for another company to put a blower style cooler on a 1080ti (which is probably unlikely anyways), all you'd be doing is saving about $20 (on a $700 card) to get a way noisier cooler that doesn't perform as well.


So, to wrap it up... Good for you for doing your own research. That's the kind of drive you need to work with small-form-factor computers. Unfortunately, a lot of that research comes from either before Nvidia reworked their reference design to be what it is now, or from when Pascal was first released, when FE cards really were poor value.
I feel lucky to be unable to buy any gpu so far^^ therefore i got spare time to make the best decision. Btw. I am planning to squeeze in additional small formfactor fans such as a bequiet! 8mm one. By fixing it with magnets i believe it could work.
 
Today I ordered a Asetec 545LC - 92mm AIO and 2011-3 retention kit for the new A4-SFX v2 sample that I will get end of April.
As you maybe know the A4-SFX v2 will have a mountpoint for a 92mm fan under the PSU. If you use a noraml SFX PSU you will be able to mount the AIO with the Noctua A9x14 fan.
I will test if this will be the new cooling king inside the A4 :)

By the way the radiator is 30mm thick


http://www.asetek.com/desktop/oem-cpu-coolers/545lc/

545lc.jpg
 
I feel lucky to be unable to buy any gpu so far^^ therefore i got spare time to make the best decision. Btw. I am planning to squeeze in additional small formfactor fans such as a bequiet! 8mm one. By fixing it with magnets i believe it could work.

Hot glue is also a surprisingly valuable tool when it comes to computers. It provides some vibration dampening and better adhesion if you move your computer a lot. If you don't, then magnets should work perfectly well. :)
 
For those that are going with AMD Ryzen for their Dan A4 builds, are you going ryzen 1600 or 1800? Also, what overclocks you think will be achievable with a cooler like the lp53 with slim fan? I was hoping perhaps 3.7 GHz and maybe 3.8GHz.

This will be very interesting to watch. I see load temps on air between 83-88. Wonder how they will react in this case....
 
Today I ordered a Asetec 545LC - 92mm AIO and 2011-3 retention kit for the new A4-SFX v2 sample that I will get end of April.
As you maybe know the A4-SFX v2 will have a mountpoint for a 92mm fan under the PSU. If you use a noraml SFX PSU you will be able to mount the AIO with the Noctua A9x14 fan.
I will test if this will be the new cooling king inside the A4 :)

By the way the radiator is 30mm thick


http://www.asetek.com/desktop/oem-cpu-coolers/545lc/

545lc.jpg
This area is too tight in the current design or are you just adding brackets?
 
Tried about 5 hours to make XMP work on z270i strix and I just couldn't make it work. How fast are your ram?

Also I wouldn't recommend using a razor blade for removing the Intel silicone as the risk is just too high.. Doesn't take much time using your nails or a old credit card to remove it safely.

I got my z270i strix working with tridentz 32gb (16x2) 3600 with xmp. I disabled the recommendations for the cpu for now, still getting the cold boot issue every time i cut power, maybe a bios update will fix it...
 
Those having problem with xmp on the z270i strix. Try undervolting. My ram would run and then crash as soon as temps rose too much. Went from 1.35v to 1.275 and now it's rock solid at 3000mhz during prime bench, tomb raider benchmark with everything in ultra including the hair at 1080p (that one was super heavy on my ram) and Aida 64
 
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Undervolting the RAM on the Strix worked for me also (thanks for that suggestion a while back), but when I undervolted the CPU I had to put the RAM back up to 1.35 to stay at 3000Mhz to avoid page fault BSODs. Still seems solid in that configuration. Definitely some wonky power stuff going on, which happens with first runs of new boards I suppose.
 
Undervolting the RAM on the Strix worked for me also (thanks for that suggestion a while back), but when I undervolted the CPU I had to put the RAM back up to 1.35 to stay at 3000Mhz to avoid page fault BSODs. Still seems solid in that configuration. Definitely some wonky power stuff going on, which happens with first runs of new boards I suppose.
I have yet to try undervolting either. That's hopefully a project for this weekend. The strange thing for mine that I noted above was that it only issues posting with XMP profile enabled when I updated the BIOS. (I know, I know...don't upgrade BIOS unless something's wrong. I couldn't resist temptation!)
 
Those having problem with xmp on the z270i strix. Try undervolting. My ram would run and then crash as soon as temps rose too much. Went from 1.35v to 1.275 and now it's rock solid at 3000mhz during prime bench, tomb raider benchmark with everything in ultra including the hair at 1080p (that one was super heavy on my ram) and Aida 64
Was that while you were having posting issues in general or just on cold boot? If I keep cycling power eventually it posts and then boots again and again with no problems.

I have yet to try undervolting either. That's hopefully a project for this weekend. The strange thing for mine that I noted above was that it only issues posting with XMP profile enabled when I updated the BIOS. (I know, I know...don't upgrade BIOS unless something's wrong. I couldn't resist temptation!)

I was trying to remember if I had these issues before upgrading BIOS, I thought I did, but now i'm not so sure, might try rolling them back
 
Would love to know how thermals and sound is when under load.

That's a beast for productivity!

Hmmm.. 1 core at 3.6. Wonder how that translates to others 7700ks.

Interesting build you have there to say the least :)
Upload pics of the completed build my dude

Here It is, the 22 core Xeon e5-2696 build.

Thermals with the case closed and fully loaded while rendering a very complex 4k scene in vray of my own (ambient temp 23ºC):

· E5-2696 22Cores 2,2 Ghz base + Dynatron-318 + Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut + TY100 fan at 100% speed = 82ºC

· i7 5820k 6 Cores 3,3 Ghz base + Dynatron-318 + Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut + TY100 fan at 100% speed = 67ºC


I've used a 100% fan speed profile for these tests. For normal using I set a profile like this: 50º 45% 60º 60% 75º 100% 80º 100%. Most of the time it is barely audible, my current temp while writing this post is 50ºC with 45% fan speed.


I also have the Cooljag Falcon II but I went with the dynatron as it mounts more sercurely (there isn't a native 2011-3 narrow bracket for the cooljag) and it performs just the same in my testings. The only benefit of the Cooljag is that it is more silent as the fan is behind it.

Next week I hope I'll receive Grizzly Conductonaut Liquid Metal. I'll post the results.

1.jpg
 
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Was that while you were having posting issues in general or just on cold boot? If I keep cycling power eventually it posts and then boots again and again with no problems.

I didn't have posting issues, but when I was troubleshooting the ram voltage and the CPU multiplayer if it crashed sometimes when restarting I had to wait like 1 or two minutes juste to see the boot logo. I'm thinking with the UEFI bioses it does checks with crash files from the OS or it checks the ram completely or does some sort of selfcheckup. Disable the boot animation and maybe enable a diagnosis mode to see if it's really having posting issues or just taking a long time to post. I tell you, sometimes I waited like 5 minutes after a wrong bios setting or a too high overclock before it would post anything on the screen. But as as soon a the settings were ok in the bios it worked like a champ every time. Try disabling the compability support module option also. It's on by default and on win 10 it just slows everything down a bit
 
I didn't have posting issues, but when I was troubleshooting the ram voltage and the CPU multiplayer if it crashed sometimes when restarting I had to wait like 1 or two minutes juste to see the boot logo. I'm thinking with the UEFI bioses it does checks with crash files from the OS or it checks the ram completely or does some sort of selfcheckup. Disable the boot animation and maybe enable a diagnosis mode to see if it's really having posting issues or just taking a long time to post. I tell you, sometimes I waited like 5 minutes after a wrong bios setting or a too high overclock before it would post anything on the screen. But as as soon a the settings were ok in the bios it worked like a champ every time. Try disabling the compability support module option also. It's on by default and on win 10 it just slows everything down a bit
These are very helpful tips. Thanks! I'll be sure to keep these in mind when I tinker this weekend.
 
Here It is, the e5-2696 build.

Thermals with the case closed and fully loaded while rendering a very complex 4k scene in vray of my own (ambient temp 23ºC):

· E5-2696 22Cores 2,2 Ghz base + Dynatron-318 + Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut + TY100 fan at 100% speed = 82ºC

· i7 5820k 6 Cores 3,3 Ghz base + Dynatron-318 + Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut + TY100 fan at 100% speed = 67ºC


I've used a 100% fan speed profile for these tests. For normal using I set a profile like this: 50º 45% 60º 60% 75º 100% 80º 100%. Most of the time it is barely audible, my current temp while writing this post is 50ºC with 45% fan speed.


I also have the Cooljag Falcon II but I went with the dynatron as it mounts more sercurely (there isn't a native 2011-3 narrow bracket for the cooljag) and it performs just the same in my testings. The only benefit of the Cooljag is that it is more silent as the fan is behind it.

Next week I hope I'll receive Grizzly Conductonaut Liquid Metal. I'll post the results.

1.jpg
That's really impressive!! I'm surprised at the 5820k results. Make me want to rethink that 8/10 core beast I had in mind.


How's gaming on the Xeon vs the 5820k?

Thanks!
 
I did some tests because of my problem that the Asus z270i won't boot the first time after plugging in power:
After I needed to reset bios because XMP does not work, I set my old cpu settings (multiplier 39, -0,08 V offset) one stepp after the other and unplugged power between for a few minutes. But I could not reproduce the problem and I can don't have a boot problem any more. Maybe that solves the problem for those who have the same.

I have not seen any high temperatures in HWInfo on my Asus z270i. Have only one reading at about 70°C highest (I think to remember it does not change over time). But the >100°C sound like a false reading.


I also did my first delid and it was quite easy. I bought a razor blade (blades on both sides) and liquid metal, prepared cleaning alcohol and a piece of cloth to clean the thermal paste.
- I cut the razor blade in two and put electrical tape on the one side to have a save grip, leave about 5 to 10 mm of the blade visible.
- I used a tissue to hold the cpu with one hand and used the razor blade to cut between the heat spreader and board, starting at one edge. Don't cut too far in the direction of the die.
- Do this for all 4 sides until the heat spreader can be rotated slightly (only stickes to the board by the thermal paste)
- Remove the heat spreader and clean the die (+ board) and heat spreader from thermal paste and heat spreader glue. I used the razor blade to carefully remove the glue.
- Apply liquid metal as described on the package
- Mound the cpu board on the motherboard and but the removed heatspreader on (loose, I didn't use glue, the mounting mechanism holds it in place)

I was very nervous (hands shaking the whole delid :D ) but it was very easy. Other than cutting too deep with the razor balde (which is near impossible because of the electrical tape) I don't see any mistake you can make. It was very easy.
I would recommand to watch a few videos (intel razor blade delid), but don't watch the fails :D (or at least I didn't want to be more nervouse than I was).
If you have any farther question or want a step by step in German just google or pm me and I am happy to help :) (but I am no expert :D )

Tried about 5 hours to make XMP work on z270i strix and I just couldn't make it work. How fast are your ram?

Also I wouldn't recommend using a razor blade for removing the Intel silicone as the risk is just too high.. Doesn't take much time using your nails or a old credit card to remove it safely.

I got my z270i strix working with tridentz 32gb (16x2) 3600 with xmp. I disabled the recommendations for the cpu for now, still getting the cold boot issue every time i cut power, maybe a bios update will fix it...

Those having problem with xmp on the z270i strix. Try undervolting. My ram would run and then crash as soon as temps rose too much. Went from 1.35v to 1.275 and now it's rock solid at 3000mhz during prime bench, tomb raider benchmark with everything in ultra including the hair at 1080p (that one was super heavy on my ram) and Aida 64

For all the people experiencing cold boot issues with DRAM and XMP settings with the Asus Z270i: https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?92032-Asus-Strix-Z270i-Issues-Red-CPU-LED. It seems a much recognized problem with this motherboard.
I experience this problem with cold boots while having the XMP profile enabled or having the DRAM frequency set manually to the advertised speeds and I was worried it was a hardware problem at first. There seems to be no solution yet, but I hope a bios update can remedy this in the near future.
 
Some news regarding the EVGA 1080 Ti FTW3

The dimensions listed on EVGA's site for the card dimensions keeps changing!!!

When it was first announced, the length was listed as 268mm which was obviously wrong

A while later I saw it update to 284mm (or thereabouts). At that point, confident it would fit, I decided to preorder it

Now I check the site again and the length is now 299.4mm!!! Where the Dan A4 lists up to 295mm!!!

http://www.evga.com/products/product.aspx?pn=11G-P4-6696-KR

Is it so hard to measure out a product that you sell, especially for one of the top GPU manufacturer brands? I find this totally ridiculous

OK so I opened up my Dan A4 and measured it. Worst case scenario, measuring from the PCI slot plate to the front wall, I'm seeing about 303-304mm. And a little more than 299.4mm from the FTW3. That seems quite a bit more than the 295mm published spec. Seems like it will be a very tight fit, but it still could fit

I really hope it does fit. I'm planning an X299 build with the FTW3.
 
Went to a LAN party and the case and bag is such an amazing combination.
Where I use to carry a backpack on my back, monitor and keyboard in one hand and case wrapped in DIY washing-line handle in the other hand, I now have everything but monitor on my shoulder and monitor in one hand.

Big thanks to DonDan!
i bought myself this bag seeing the pics. very nice ;)
 
For mobility reasons i got the hori ps4 monitor from japan. It's the size of a ps4 but it can handle 2 output & its in 1080p
 
I need your help forum users!

I just encountered a serious problem with my PC.
My system ran without a problem for about two months now. Yesterday I connected an RGB-Strip to the AURA header on the motherboard to try it out. I started the AURA software on Win10 and tried some things, suddenly I got a blue screen and the system didn't POST anymore.
I disconnected the RGB-Strip, swapped RAM modules, cleared CMOS (oddly the RGB effect was still the same as when it crashed, does that mean the CMOS wasn't cleared?).
I tested the system multiple times without a GPU installed but it doesn't POSt anymore.

In the video you can see what it does.
The RGB effect is just going even if the system is off. Then I start the PC, the red CPU-LED lights up for a moment, then the yellow RAM led lights up for about 4s and then goes away but the system never posts.

Can you guys please help me to debug this problem.
I seriously do not know wtf happened.

video dropbox link (100MB):
https://www.dropbox.com/s/tmfst51wcp72mni/IMG_6585.MOV?dl=0
 
For all the people experiencing cold boot issues with DRAM and XMP settings with the Asus Z270i: https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?92032-Asus-Strix-Z270i-Issues-Red-CPU-LED. It seems a much recognized problem with this motherboard.
I experience this problem with cold boots while having the XMP profile enabled or having the DRAM frequency set manually to the advertised speeds and I was worried it was a hardware problem at first. There seems to be no solution yet, but I hope a bios update can remedy this in the near future.
Glad to hear it's not only my system that has these problems. I'm hoping for a fix from Asus soon as XMP doesn't work at all.
Have 4266 mhz ram in it but it won't go further than 3200mhz for me.. Kinda wish I had bought the Asrock or Gigabyte motherboard instead.
 
I need your help forum users!

I just encountered a serious problem with my PC.
My system ran without a problem for about two months now. Yesterday I connected an RGB-Strip to the AURA header on the motherboard to try it out. I started the AURA software on Win10 and tried some things, suddenly I got a blue screen and the system didn't POST anymore.
I disconnected the RGB-Strip, swapped RAM modules, cleared CMOS (oddly the RGB effect was still the same as when it crashed, does that mean the CMOS wasn't cleared?).
I tested the system multiple times without a GPU installed but it doesn't POSt anymore.

In the video you can see what it does.
The RGB effect is just going even if the system is off. Then I start the PC, the red CPU-LED lights up for a moment, then the yellow RAM led lights up for about 4s and then goes away but the system never posts.

Can you guys please help me to debug this problem.
I seriously do not know wtf happened.

video dropbox link (100MB):
https://www.dropbox.com/s/tmfst51wcp72mni/IMG_6585.MOV?dl=0

So to clarify, the POST issues are not the start up issues being raised here regarding the Strix Mobo? I.e. the board never POSTs the first time after replugging in the power or turning the PSU back on. Have you tried just booting multiple times following a failure to post/red CPU LED?
 
Huh, that's kinda cool. How do you like it so far?
Originally it was meant to be placed on top of my ps4. Currently i'm using it for my raspberry, ps4, pc, laptop and other stuff. It is really lightweight.
The inputlag is not noticable but since its not meant for high fps gaming i haven't really tried out so far. I have to say. If you look for a mobile solution this will do the job perfectly. I strongly suggest to buy a better monitor for home usage.
It got btw. Speakers built on the stand for the screen.
 
GTX 1080 Ti Compatibility
I've started compiling a list of the main GTX 1080 Ti cards from the main manufacturers, not including FE versions. I wanted to get the Aorus myself but it is too thick.
Please feel free to copy and paste this message to include other cards that are available or a note in brackets next to a card if you have personally installed it confirming fit.



Not Compatible

298.0 x 134.0 x 52.5 - ASUS ROG Strix
293.0 x 134.0 x 55.0 - Gigabyte AORUS Xtreme
325.0 x 148.0 x 56.6 - ZOTAC AMP Extreme
300.0 x 148.0 x 43.5 - ZOTAC AMP
290.0 x 140.0 x 51.0 - MSI GAMING X


Tight Fit - Probably still not compatible

299.7 x 142.7 x xx.x - EVGA FTW3 GAMING


Compatible

290.0 x 143.0 x 40.0 - MSI ARMOR 11G OC
269.2 x 118.5 x xx.x - EVGA SC2 GAMING
 
GTX 1080 Ti Compatibility
I've started compiling a list of the main GTX 1080 Ti cards from the main manufacturers, not including FE versions. I wanted to get the Aorus myself but it is too thick.
Please feel free to copy and paste this message to include other cards that are available or a note in brackets next to a card if you have personally installed it confirming fit.



Not Compatible

298.0 x 134.0 x 52.5 - ASUS ROG Strix
293.0 x 134.0 x 55.0 - Gigabyte AORUS Xtreme
325.0 x 148.0 x 56.6 - ZOTAC AMP Extreme
300.0 x 148.0 x 43.5 - ZOTAC AMP
290.0 x 140.0 x 51.0 - MSI GAMING X


Tight Fit - Probably still not compatible

299.7 x 142.7 x xx.x - EVGA FTW3 GAMING


Compatible

290.0 x 143.0 x 40.0 - MSI ARMOR 11G OC
269.2 x 118.5 x xx.x - EVGA SC2 GAMING

Add the Gigabyte 1080 Ti 11GB Gaming OC as compatible
 
Thanks for compiling the list. Btw i would add the zotac amp edition to the 'might fit' list. I personally measure about 303mm of available space for gpu length in the dan a4
 
GTX 1080 Ti Compatibility
I've started compiling a list of the main GTX 1080 Ti cards from the main manufacturers, not including FE versions. I wanted to get the Aorus myself but it is too thick.
Please feel free to copy and paste this message to include other cards that are available or a note in brackets next to a card if you have personally installed it confirming fit.



Not Compatible

298.0 x 134.0 x 52.5 - ASUS ROG Strix
293.0 x 134.0 x 55.0 - Gigabyte AORUS Xtreme
325.0 x 148.0 x 56.6 - ZOTAC AMP Extreme
300.0 x 148.0 x 43.5 - ZOTAC AMP
290.0 x 140.0 x 51.0 - MSI GAMING X


Tight Fit - Probably still not compatible

299.7 x 142.7 x xx.x - EVGA FTW3 GAMING


Compatible

290.0 x 143.0 x 40.0 - MSI ARMOR 11G OC
269.2 x 118.5 x xx.x - EVGA SC2 GAMING
What makes you think the FTW3 won't fit?

Anyway I have a FTW3 on order and will update when I get it to confirm if it fits or does not fit. I suppose at worst I can sell it for what I paid relatively easy on eBay. Or maybe I'd just return it to EVGA. Idk what would be the best option.
 
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GTX 1080 Ti Compatibility
I've started compiling a list of the main GTX 1080 Ti cards from the main manufacturers, not including FE versions. I wanted to get the Aorus myself but it is too thick.
Please feel free to copy and paste this message to include other cards that are available or a note in brackets next to a card if you have personally installed it confirming fit.



Not Compatible

298.0 x 134.0 x 52.5 - ASUS ROG Strix
293.0 x 134.0 x 55.0 - Gigabyte AORUS Xtreme
325.0 x 148.0 x 56.6 - ZOTAC AMP Extreme
300.0 x 148.0 x 43.5 - ZOTAC AMP
290.0 x 140.0 x 51.0 - MSI GAMING X


Tight Fit - Probably still not compatible

299.7 x 142.7 x xx.x - EVGA FTW3 GAMING


Compatible

290.0 x 143.0 x 40.0 - MSI ARMOR 11G OC
269.2 x 118.5 x xx.x - EVGA SC2 GAMING


Put this one in the compatible list

280 x 114 mm x 41 - Gigabyte Gaming OC 11G

Someone tested it and it fits, although it is 41mm fat

....and the founders edition of course

From what I've researched, MSI ARMOR 11G oc OVERHEATS, so be aware.
2017032710491273.png
 
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Will install an 400GB Intel 750 MVNe SSD tonight, I'll post some pictures when completed - I don't think I'll have any issues.

This Intel 750 is double the height of a normal 2,5" SSD. It connects to a U.2 connector on my Asus Z170 Maximus VIII Impact. U.2 is comparable with M.2, except that the SSD connects via a cable instead of a slot on the motherboard.

IMG_4972.jpg IMG_4973.jpg
 
I think you have the monitor I want to buy (S2417DG) -- how do you like it?

A lot, my GTX1080 can mostly handle the 144 Frames at 2560x1440 for the Dell 144Hz G-Sync.
27" is not the biggest size, but very comfortable. Recommended!
 
Here is a full GTX 1080Ti compatibility list:

  • Nvidia 1080 Ti FE
  • ASUS ROG Strix GTX 1080 Ti
  • ASUS Turbo GeForce GTX 1080 Ti
  • EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 Ti SC2 Gaming
  • EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 Ti SC Black Edition Gaming
  • EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 Ti FTW3 Gaming
  • Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Aorus Xtreme Edition 11G
  • Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Aorus 11G
  • Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Gaming OC 11G
  • Inno3D GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Twin X2
  • Inno3D GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Gaming OC
  • Inno3D GeForce GTX 1080 Ti iChill X3 Ultra
  • Inno3D GeForce GTX 1080 Ti iChill X4 Ultra
  • KFA² GeForce GTX 1080 Ti EXOC
  • KFA² GeForce GTX 1080 Ti
  • MSI GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Gaming X 11G
  • MSI GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Armor 11G OC
  • MSI GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Aero 11G OC
  • MSI GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Armor 11G
  • MSI GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Aero 11G
  • Palit GeForce GTX 1080 Ti JetStream
  • Palit GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Super JetStream
  • Palit GeForce GTX 1080 Ti GameRock
  • Palit GeForce GTX 1080 Ti GameRock Premium
  • Zotac GeForce GTX 1080 Ti AMP Extreme
  • Zotac GeForce GTX 1080 Ti AMP
  • Zotac GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Blower
 
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Yikes ... I thought about upgrading my Asus ROG STRIX-GTX1080-A8G-GAMING to the new Ti model...

Any idea if the Asus ROG Strix 1080Ti fits when the side panel is removed?

Also: What is the reason these new models don't fit in the A4-SFX? Obviously because of their dimensions, but is this because they don't follow *TX (ATX? ITX?) rules, or is this because the A4-SFX doesn't follow the guidelines?

Or are there only ATX/BTX (whatnot) guidelines for the dimensions of the graphics cards, and are there no guidelines for a ITX case?
 
No the bend on the side will collide with the heatsink.

Get the MSI Armor or Zotac AMP they will fit.
 
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