See this post from last week.Has there been anything new to report as far as the sandblasted panels go? I might buy a second M1 but wanted to wait for the possible blasted panels.
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See this post from last week.Has there been anything new to report as far as the sandblasted panels go? I might buy a second M1 but wanted to wait for the possible blasted panels.
Excellent I will be keeping an eye on this. I think it will give a more premium look which I love.See this post from last week.
Necere said:The FAQ is a little out of date at this point. The next production run will probably be in April/May.
Yep, we like it!
I like your judicious use of anchors to control the path of the cables. I also like how the cables all seems to be branching out from a common trunk. I didn't know about the Aquaero fan controller, so thanks for introducing it to me! Impressive!
Thanks!Nice build, looks good. You did a great job on the cable management.
Thanks for the reply! I will check those settings. I don't really mind the CPU reducing it's clock speed when not in use, but I can't figure out why they are so high (4500MHz) for 1 or 2 minutes directly after startup. I'm kind of a noob, so I am worried something's wrong..
during post and bootup the cpu is always at full blast. then it will clock down as load decreasesThanks for the reply! I will check those settings. I don't really mind the CPU reducing it's clock speed when not in use, but I can't figure out why they are so high (4500MHz) for 1 or 2 minutes directly after startup. I'm kind of a noob, so I am worried something's wrong..
Yes I understand that's the turbo speed, but what the hell is it doing at that speed? I wasn't doing anything.
Hey there,
Last weekend I completed my first PC/M1 build and it was a great experience. The only thing: after installing Windows and the necessary drivers I found out I didn't remove the rubber unlay from the backplate of the Noctua NH-C14 cooler.
So I contacted Noctua and they responded it shouldn't be much of a problem as long as it was only short-term.
So last night I almost completely rebuild the system, but then it didn't post and a red DRAM LED was lit. I eventually got into safe mode and the system seemed not to like the XMP settings I enabled after the initial installation. After disabling the XMP profile it DID boot and the system was up and running again. Somehow I got the XMP enabled later without a problem. Have not yet overclocked anything, but the temps for the 7700k are looking fine.
My only worry (as a first-time and inexperienced builder) are the clock speeds after startup (the fan starts spinning the moment I have typed the system password). I didn't notice it before, but CPU-Z, HWMonitor and taskmanager tell me the 7700k is running up to 15/20 percent @4500Mhz for a couple of minutes before lowering to around 800Mhz. Disabling some programs during startup didn't give different results. Is this normal?
Any suggestions?
Parts:
7700k
Noctua NH-C14
Asus Z270i
Crucial Ballistix Tactical 16GB 3000Mhz
960 Evo 500GB + Sandisk Ultra II 960GB storage
Corsair SF600
Ncase M1
GPU: not yet, looking for a GTX 1070/1080.
PS: The M1 is truly amazing and pics will follow!
By default Intel's processors have SpeedStep enabled in the UEFI/BIOS settings. This reduces power usage and heat generation by lowering the CPU speed (multiplier manipulation?). If you would rather not see this you can diable SpeedStep in the UEFI/BIOS menu settings.
Another option is in Windows. By default the Power Profile is set to Balanced. If you change it to High Performance I believe the CPU cores run at full speed all of the time.
Hey guys, decided to delid my 7700K instead of ditching it and jumped back into the Ncase! Hitting 52-54C on max load after 4 hours of Aida64 Stress Test with the C14!
Excellent temperatures!
What did you use to delid it? What thermal interface material did you use between the core and the integrated heatspreader? Did you reglue the IHS to the substrate or leave it "free floating"?
After a few Cinebench runs on 100% full fan speed and open case, my temps were maxing at 49-50C load.
For my delid - I used the Rockit88 delid and relid tool. I also used Arcticlean 1&2 after getting the lid off and applied Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra in between the IHS and CPU DIE. After that I used Permatex Ultrablack RTV with toothpicks to get an incredibly thin bead around the IHS with a little extra on the side tabs. I left a little more than the stock RTV thermal gap (about 1/4-1/2 the top left instead of 1/8th the top right) open for gas/heat to escape. I then used a quarter between the relid tool and IHS to relid with even pressure. I waited 1 second over 24 hours for cure time and started testing!
For the re-install I noticed my Thermal Grizzly Kryonaught TIM was really thick and gross, so I cleaned it off and used GELID GC Extreme on the IHS between my C14 with the pea dot method.
Looking for more opinions on temps though!
I think I'd be in the realm of a 20-25C drop with a AIO in a full size case, however now I believe I am at around a 16-20C drop in the Ncase with the C14. Power per space foot has never been greater.
Thanks for all the details. I am waiting for Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra for my 4790K that I already delidded.
I was going to use a silicone adhesive that's use for aquariums instead of RTV simply because I have it already. I might take a shot at using Gorilla Glue instead, but fear that may be too permanent. Does anyone have a better recommendation?
And for those having trouble finding the C14, I'm pretty happy with my C14s + a slim Prolimatech 140mm fan on top.
The Prolimatech has 120mm mounting holes, which work well with the included side bracket.
Did you clear the CMOS? I've experienced similar behavior with bad overclocks.so I think my PSU died, I press the power on the N1 and it tries to boot up, lights come on for like a split second then off again...
gonna try and replace the PSU and see if that was the problem.
thinking of going with the Corsair SF600
Can even you do two right-angle plugs side by side?quick question (this is my first build):
i've already bought a right angle 8pin power cable (kareoncables on ebay) for an upcoming build involving an EVGA 1080 FTW since it has a tall PCB that necessitates a right angle adapter.
Now that the 1080TI ICX FTW3 is on its way, do I just buy a 6pin to 6pin right angle power cable as well? Or is it a special 6+8 pin setup thats preferable, like something I'd need to go to cablemod for?
so I think my PSU died, I press the power on the N1 and it tries to boot up, lights come on for like a split second then off again...
gonna try and replace the PSU and see if that was the problem.
thinking of going with the Corsair SF600
Has anyone made any 3d printed stuff for this case?
thinking it would be pretty cool to have a database of 3d printed parts for our cases.
Since the part selection is pretty limited, many of us use the same or similar components, the 3d prints could be pretty universal.
First SF450 had loud coil whine. Second SF450 has less whine, but still there, and about 15 minutes of gaming made the PSU fan go up so high that it drowned out all of the other fans in the system. It also didn't shut off even when I shut down the game.
I'm going to try the Silverstone SX700-LPT to see if that's any better.
It was from Amazon.Are you returning the PSU's for the coil whine? What company? I was gonna buy my SF600 from Amazon but I'm not sure if they'll let me do that more than once, if at all.