Samsung UN40KU6300 40-Inch 4K

here are a few pics trying to show what I'm seeing. i know it's not ideal taking a pic with phone of TV screen and uploading, but you should be able to see how blurry everything is. i uninstalled the game and am re-downloading now (54gb's...ugh). i have 20/20 vision and this makes me want to put on glasses while playing....

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Doesn't the XB1 version of FF15 render much of the time at 720p? I'd figure that's why you're seeing the strong softness, unless you've identified that and it's something else that makes things softer. Digital Foundry mentioned this softness today in their FF15 performance article: "Let's discuss the Microsoft console version first. There's a dynamic resolution scaling solution in place that gives the title a softer look than its siblings".
 
Doesn't the XB1 version of FF15 render much of the time at 720p? I'd figure that's why you're seeing the strong softness, unless you've identified that and it's something else that makes things softer. Digital Foundry mentioned this softness today in their FF15 performance article: "Let's discuss the Microsoft console version first. There's a dynamic resolution scaling solution in place that gives the title a softer look than its siblings".

it's far worse than "soft" unless they are just trying to sugar coat it. it looks horrible. i can't play longer than 30 minutes without getting a headache. i have 20/20 vision and it's like me taking my brother (who has horrible vision) and trying to wear his prescription glasses and play. if you search for "final fantasy xbox blurry" and filter results by this week you will find pages and pages of posts on several forums about it. i've been watching a couple of guys live stream the PS4 (pro and non pro) versions on Twitch and they honestly look 100x better even with the Twitch bitrate and 720p output.

just tried playing on my launch (non S) Xbone connected to a 1080p projector and it looks like crap there too. It honestly looks like 360 generation game. the textures are just blurry.
 
here are a few pics trying to show what I'm seeing. i know it's not ideal taking a pic with phone of TV screen and uploading, but you should be able to see how blurry everything is. i uninstalled the game and am re-downloading now (54gb's...ugh). i have 20/20 vision and this makes me want to put on glasses while playing....

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That's normal.
 
That's normal.

yea, after spending all morning reading the internet it appears so. what really sucks is that i have two PS4's. i picked it up for Xbox thinking the One S on this Samsung would look better than my non Pro PS4's....

hopefully they can patch something.
 
Doesn't the XB1 version of FF15 render much of the time at 720p? I'd figure that's why you're seeing the strong softness, unless you've identified that and it's something else that makes things softer. Digital Foundry mentioned this softness today in their FF15 performance article: "Let's discuss the Microsoft console version first. There's a dynamic resolution scaling solution in place that gives the title a softer look than its siblings".

they also use Temporal AA. which looks like covering the screen with Vaseline at 900 and 720p...
 
yea, after spending all morning reading the internet it appears so. what really sucks is that i have two PS4's. i picked it up for Xbox thinking the One S on this Samsung would look better than my non Pro PS4's....

Since you just bought the game, why not return it and buy it for PS4?
 
OK, finally got the TV setup. There's been much dialogue about this, so I'll be brief in my opinions, which I give mainly because my model is 6290 and there's been less information on that:

1) 6290 is exactly the same as 6300 except without bluetooth.
2) 4K image looks, as expected, wonderfully sharp. Using it at %150 scaling.
3) Once UHD is turned on for 4:4:4 and the GPU is correctly set, colors are pretty much perfect.
4) Blacks are quite superior to what I expected. Granted OLED is miles away, but I doubt anybody would complain about this contrast ratio at $300.
5) 4K/HDR video via PC looks fine. Playing those files "through the TV" looks much better though (in a USB drive, plugged directly to the TV). The motion smoothing works great for videos if you like it (not available in PC mode) and when HDR files are played, the TV's player recognizes it and changes settings itself. You can clearly tell that the TV is trying to do the best HDR it can, which is not much. It ramps up the lamp to infinity and beyond (AKA 450nits on this set) which means you lose the deep blacks as there's no local dimming (unless it's a dark scene, then it's fine).
6) Auto dimming sounded like a good idea, but it keeps going up and down. This is the Eco Sensor, and after 30 minutes I turned it off. It was very annoying. I setup the backlight at 5 (out of 20) and it's bright enough for me (I tend to prefer my screens not too bright). I'm fine adjusting manually as needed.
7) The remote is simple, which is nice, but the clickiness of the circular control isn't very good. Then again, I don't care about it much.
8) Colors really are spectacular in this panel. Sure, it doesn't have DCI P3 coverage (which is way more amazing) but it does look great and miles better than my 8 year old 40LNA550.
9) Trailing - OK, I see it. Thankfully, I'm the type of person who isn't bothered by it: I'm not looking for it, thus I don't care. If you're used to a 144hz panel it may drive you nuts. Then again, it's miles better than my 8 year old 40LNA550. No complaints from me.
10) HDR+ mode is hot garbage. Just never turn it off and ignore it even exists. It's trying to mimic the punch of HDR, but it just ruins the whole image. I tried it while playing both SDR and HDR videos from the USB drive, and HDR+ looked, again, like hot garbage. Unless you like psychedelic exaggerations in your colors. Then by all means use it.
11) Not sure I'll calibrate the display with my Spyder. Things look pretty good to me, but I'll still calibrate most likely, to see the difference.
12) Sound: neither tinny, nor Dolby Atmos. It's fine, that's all.

All in all, for $300, I'm more than satisfied. Hard to believe I paid triple this price 8 years ago for an immensely crappier (and waaaaaaay heavier) 1080p TV. This TV will hold me perfectly fine for a couple years until the HDR mess is figured out and is more affordable. Here's a quick shot (not the best picture, I know):

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Since you just bought the game, why not return it and buy it for PS4?

it's a digital copy. i will try but not holding my breath.

on the plus side, i decided to download and try out Battlefield 1 (it was bundled with the One S). i honestly was getting ready to return the Xbox to Amazon after playing Final Fantasy. it took 5 minutes of BF1 to convince me otherwise. using the EXACT same TV and Xbox video settings as FF15, BF1 looks FANTASTIC! it is easily the best looking console game i've played. i have no clue what's going on with Final Fantasy, but it is broken. there is no way BF1 should look this much better. it also runs mostly at 900p (can go up to 1000p) and dips to 720p, but "tries" to hit 60fps. it's honestly a night and day difference. i'll post a couple pics later just to show the difference between the two games.
 
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OK, finally got the TV setup. There's been much dialogue about this, so I'll be brief in my opinions, which I give mainly because my model is 6290 and there's been less information on that:

1) 6290 is exactly the same as 6300 except without bluetooth.
2) 4K image looks, as expected, wonderfully sharp. Using it at %150 scaling.
3) Once UHD is turned on for 4:4:4 and the GPU is correctly set, colors are pretty much perfect.
4) Blacks are quite superior to what I expected. Granted OLED is miles away, but I doubt anybody would complain about this contrast ratio at $300.
5) 4K/HDR video via PC looks fine. Playing those files "through the TV" looks much better though (in a USB drive, plugged directly to the TV). The motion smoothing works great for videos if you like it (not available in PC mode) and when HDR files are played, the TV's player recognizes it and changes settings itself. You can clearly tell that the TV is trying to do the best HDR it can, which is not much. It ramps up the lamp to infinity and beyond (AKA 450nits on this set) which means you lose the deep blacks as there's no local dimming (unless it's a dark scene, then it's fine).
6) Auto dimming sounded like a good idea, but it keeps going up and down. This is the Eco Sensor, and after 30 minutes I turned it off. It was very annoying. I setup the backlight at 5 (out of 20) and it's bright enough for me (I tend to prefer my screens not too bright). I'm fine adjusting manually as needed.
7) The remote is simple, which is nice, but the clickiness of the circular control isn't very good. Then again, I don't care about it much.
8) Colors really are spectacular in this panel. Sure, it doesn't have DCI P3 coverage (which is way more amazing) but it does look great and miles better than my 8 year old 40LNA550.
9) Trailing - OK, I see it. Thankfully, I'm the type of person who isn't bothered by it: I'm not looking for it, thus I don't care. If you're used to a 144hz panel it may drive you nuts. Then again, it's miles better than my 8 year old 40LNA550. No complaints from me.
10) HDR+ mode is hot garbage. Just never turn it off and ignore it even exists. It's trying to mimic the punch of HDR, but it just ruins the whole image. I tried it while playing both SDR and HDR videos from the USB drive, and HDR+ looked, again, like hot garbage. Unless you like psychedelic exaggerations in your colors. Then by all means use it.
11) Not sure I'll calibrate the display with my Spyder. Things look pretty good to me, but I'll still calibrate most likely, to see the difference.
12) Sound: neither tinny, nor Dolby Atmos. It's fine, that's all.

All in all, for $300, I'm more than satisfied. Hard to believe I paid triple this price 8 years ago for an immensely crappier (and waaaaaaay heavier) 1080p TV. This TV will hold me perfectly fine for a couple years until the HDR mess is figured out and is more affordable. Here's a quick shot (not the best picture, I know):

just a heads up, this monitor uses PWM when the backlight is set to 10 or under. if you aren't sensitive to it, no worries. i have mine set to 20.
 
just a heads up, this monitor uses PWM when the backlight is set to 10 or under. if you aren't sensitive to it, no worries. i have mine set to 20.

Thanks, I did know that. My previous TV also used PWM and it's never bothered me (otherwise I would have bought an actual monitor with DC backlight). It seems to be crazy problematic for some people, giving them heavy headaches. Not my case, thankfully. I spend hours (some days 6-8h) grading essays on word, but it's never been a problem for me.

I fired up a couple games - Dear Esther (I wanted to see the cave) and Doom. Colors and contrast on both are spectacular (again, clearly not OLED levels, but for $300... you can't beat this). The photos don't make the output justice.

Now I wish I had a device like a current gen console to output HDR stuff, other than downloaded videos (a couple of them weren't recognized as HDR, must be the way the metadata was encoded). I have no games that support it either :(

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Hi Guys,

So if I want to connect both a xbox one s or ps4 pro to get HDR gaming etc, I have to use HDMI1. But I also want to hook it up to my PC, so I guess I need HDMI 1 as well to get the 4:4:4 4k@60hz. How do I achieve this? Using a HDMI switcher?
 
I ended up calibrating the TV with my Spyder 5. Certainly makes a big difference, the screen was waaaaaaay bluish. Color is definitely more accurate now.

Since the 6300 and the 6290 are essentially the same panel, I'm sharing the ICC profile from my Onedrive. You can download it here.

In case you don't know how to apply a profile, just search "color management", add the profile, set to default. Even then, I'd suggest going to the advanced tab, change system defaults, set this ICC on the first device profile option, then check Use Windows display calibration. Then click reload current calibration, then close, if the previous window you left in advance doesn't show the 6290 profile, click on it again, then again on reload current calibration, back to devices tab, make sure the 6290 is as default and if not, make it default again. Windows is mega stupid about user profiles and makes it really confusing. This method works for me, virtually, always. After that, each time you turn your PC on you'll see the incorrect default for a split second and it should immediately switch to the ICC I calibrated.

Enjoy!

Using a HDMI switcher?

That should work, though switchers in my experience are cranky and give weird issues. It's worth a try if you find something affordable. Otherwise try your PC on HDMI2/3 and try to set it to YCbCr 444. It's not RGB but it's kind of the same result. I'm not sure this is possible though, as only HDMI 1 is rev. 2.0a.
 
Thanks, I did know that. My previous TV also used PWM and it's never bothered me (otherwise I would have bought an actual monitor with DC backlight). It seems to be crazy problematic for some people, giving them heavy headaches. Not my case, thankfully. I spend hours (some days 6-8h) grading essays on word, but it's never been a problem for me.

I fired up a couple games - Dear Esther (I wanted to see the cave) and Doom. Colors and contrast on both are spectacular (again, clearly not OLED levels, but for $300... you can't beat this). The photos don't make the output justice.

Now I wish I had a device like a current gen console to output HDR stuff, other than downloaded videos (a couple of them weren't recognized as HDR, must be the way the metadata was encoded). I have no games that support it either :(

c2174b83-412c-40ff-86b7-307e55f2c1e3

Even if the PWM flickering isn't noticeable to you, I'd still try to run the Backlighting at 10 just to reduce eye strain. Personally, I really like bright backlighting so I run it at 16, although 14 is probably a better compromise. In any case, if you ever run the screen in a dim room or with the lights out, it's also good to add Bias lighting, something like this.
 
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AFAIK you can only do 4K60 4:4:4 on HDMI 1. I have my PC on HDMI 2 with 4:2:0 and things still look great as long as you use 150% scaling in Windows.
 
In any case, if you ever run the screen in a dim room or with the lights out, it's also good to add Bias lighting, something like this.

I'm already doing that in the living room! I may consider doing it for the office too, but I do like a dim office, keeps me relaxed. If PWM ever gives me a headache I'll consider turning up the backlight.

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AFAIK you can only do 4K60 4:4:4 on HDMI 1. I have my PC on HDMI 2 with 4:2:0 and things still look great as long as you use 150% scaling in Windows.

ok thanks. What happens if you put it as 100% scaling?

Also what if you use PC on HDMI 1, and xbox one S or ps4 pro on hdmi 2? No HDR?
 
ok thanks. What happens if you put it as 100% scaling?

Also what if you use PC on HDMI 1, and xbox one S or ps4 pro on hdmi 2? No HDR?

Do. Your own. Research.

Jesus fucking Christ I'm tired of this. The info is out there. Google. Read a couple reviews. I'm perfectly willing to help answer reasonable questions (it is, by and large, why I come to this site) but I expect posters to make at least some kind of half-assed attempt to inform themselves.

Step up.
 
ok thanks. What happens if you put it as 100% scaling?

Also what if you use PC on HDMI 1, and xbox one S or ps4 pro on hdmi 2? No HDR?
You can use 100% scaling, but then small pixel fonts (like on webpages) won't look great without 4:4:4. With 150% scaling, Windows resamples the fonts so they look good even with 4:2:2 or 4:2:0 color. Without scaling then you get odd sub-pixel discoloring and fuzziness.

HDMI 1 is the only port that supports UHD color, which enables both 4:4:4 and HDR modes. So sadly you have to choose what to put on the first HDMI port. In my case, I'm using the screen mostly for entertainment, and I'd rather have HDR for my PS4 Pro (or, alternatively, my 4K Blu-Ray player). XB1 or PS4 would work fine on HDMI 2 or 3, but you can't use HDR.

It depends on your usage. Personally, I think 4:2:0 color looks fine on the PC so it's no problem for me. If you plan to work with a lot of text on the screen, maybe it's a bigger issue for you. And, in any case, the HDR support on this kit is only really half-way supported so you won't be missing all that much if you decide to put your console on the secondary ports.
 
Do. Your own. Research.

Jesus fucking Christ I'm tired of this. The info is out there. Google. Read a couple reviews. I'm perfectly willing to help answer reasonable questions (it is, by and large, why I come to this site) but I expect posters to make at least some kind of half-assed attempt to inform themselves.

Step up.

Yeah I've already decided that I'm ignoring his/her posts if he/she asks basic, easy to find on your own stuff. Several people, myself included, have told k3nnis about this and he keeps doing what he/she has been told to avoid. At this point, it's abusing our good will.

Make a minimal effort, k3nnis. Your last question was another one that you could answer yourself just by thinking, not even needing to look elsewhere for information. We're not your personal IT department. You have to teach a person to fish, not give them the food ready.
 
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I pulled my 1070 and reinstalled my 670. My goodness but 4:2:0 looks terrible. I set it to 1080p so I could get 4:4:4.

I guess I should test whether Windows or the TV itself scales better.

Edit: Then again it also forces the HDMI range to limited, that combined with the 4:2:0 is terrible. It's actually pretty decent at 1080p, just huge.

Come on FedEx and EVGA! I need that 1080 I paid for.
 
Come on FedEx and EVGA! I need that 1080 I paid for.

FedEx is the worst. I've always had problems with them. This past week, they didn't update the tracking for 6 full days, and the night before the TV was supposed to be delivered, suddenly they just delayed the shipment 1 day, for no apparent reason. I'm sure they had their reasons, but if you offer tracking, well, actually track the shipment and let me know what is happening. Quite annoying.
 
Does anybody else notice the horrible burning plastic smell with this tv? I've had two of them and both did it, after almost a week the smell is almost gone but I do still notice it a little bit, just checking to see if its just me? my model is ku6270
 
Does anybody else notice the horrible burning plastic smell with this tv? I've had two of them and both did it, after almost a week the smell is almost gone but I do still notice it a little bit, just checking to see if its just me? my model is ku6270

Mine had a weird smell for the first week as well. It is completely gone now.
 
Mine doesn't smell at all. It may be the TV just "breaking in", plastics warp a bit initially due to heat, etc. Not necessarily the case, but if the smell is gone after a few days, I wouldn't worry about it (as long as it doesn't smell burnt, of course).
 
I plugged my ku6290 into a kill-a-watt and thought I'd post results. Basically with backlight at max (20) it pulls 100 watts from the wall. Each step down on the backlight is around -4.5 watts. Surprisingly linear on the relationship too I think. Backlight of 10 is reading 55 watts from the wall.

fwiw, I had no burning or plastic smell from mine.
 
I am pretty sure the smell we are referring to was just the *NEW* plastic smell heating up a bit for the first time. Mine has since gone completely and damn am I still loving using this as a monitor.
 
I am pretty sure the smell we are referring to was just the *NEW* plastic smell heating up a bit for the first time. Mine has since gone completely and damn am I still loving using this as a monitor.

I think I'm visiting [H] more often now. I love reading all y'all's posts. They're all so sharp and defined. Reading is a pleasure. I start full-on finals-week grading tomorrow (should start tonight but I'm busy drinking wine :D ) and I'm looking forward to the experience at 4K fine text.
 
here are a few pics trying to show what I'm seeing. i know it's not ideal taking a pic with phone of TV screen and uploading, but you should be able to see how blurry everything is. i uninstalled the game and am re-downloading now (54gb's...ugh). i have 20/20 vision and this makes me want to put on glasses while playing....

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NIGHT and DAY difference from Xbox version to PS version... not. even. close... using the exact same TV settings just swapped out the Xbox One S with a non Pro PS4. "HDR" was turned on in the menu.

PS4 pics:

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I love this display, and I'd like to thank everyone of you who posted information here as well as the sticky note where it said how to setup the Samsung TV's with the PC in the forum. I purchased it this week from Best Buy ($350) to replace a 7 year old 27" Samsung Syncmaster 1080p monitor/tv.

I couldn't get 4:4:4 for some time and really thought it was my HDMI cable, but ended up being the UHD color mode being off for HDMI1. I use this mostly for games, so it's connect to a new gaming rig I built (i7-6700k + EVGA 1080GTX FTW) though I've had some small issues and I wondered if anyone had run into them.

- I am playing the games in PC mode, if I switch to gaming console mode, the display gets really bad and I have to change the sharpness to 0 and change the backlight, etc. Is there that much difference in lag between PC & Game Mode ?

- Another issue I am is that when the TV turns off after 5 minutes (Balanced Windows 10 Power settings), I can't turn it back on by moving the mouse (like a monitor would) but have to actually turn it on via the remote. Is this how TV's are in general ?

But as a side note, I really like 4k display - I still think even with the 1080GTX it's still not to the point where you can run everything 60fps, so I've been using Nvidia GeForce Experience to optimize games, but overall everything runs pretty smooth. Though I get sort of a headache playing in front of it so I sit a few meters back and play with a DS4 remote.
 
I love this display, and I'd like to thank everyone of you who posted information here as well as the sticky note where it said how to setup the Samsung TV's with the PC in the forum. I purchased it this week from Best Buy ($350) to replace a 7 year old 27" Samsung Syncmaster 1080p monitor/tv.

I couldn't get 4:4:4 for some time and really thought it was my HDMI cable, but ended up being the UHD color mode being off for HDMI1. I use this mostly for games, so it's connect to a new gaming rig I built (i7-6700k + EVGA 1080GTX FTW) though I've had some small issues and I wondered if anyone had run into them.

- I am playing the games in PC mode, if I switch to gaming console mode, the display gets really bad and I have to change the sharpness to 0 and change the backlight, etc. Is there that much difference in lag between PC & Game Mode ?

- Another issue I am is that when the TV turns off after 5 minutes (Balanced Windows 10 Power settings), I can't turn it back on by moving the mouse (like a monitor would) but have to actually turn it on via the remote. Is this how TV's are in general ?

But as a side note, I really like 4k display - I still think even with the 1080GTX it's still not to the point where you can run everything 60fps, so I've been using Nvidia GeForce Experience to optimize games, but overall everything runs pretty smooth. Though I get sort of a headache playing in front of it so I sit a few meters back and play with a DS4 remote.

there was (still is?) a bug in the TV firmware that swaps the sharpness when switching from PC to game mode.
as for lag, game mode has 20ms and PC mode has 36ms. i tried both and had no problems with the 36. i leave mine in pc mode even when pc gaming.
this and most TV's are not able to go into a low power standby that can be "woken" by Windows. i set the "turn off monitor" power setting to "never" and turn the TV on/off when in use.
 
- The settings for sharpness are different between game and non game mode. In game mode set it to 0. In regular mode 50. Don't mess with any other numbers as they will distort the image.

- Yes, you must turn the TV back on with the remote if it turns off. What I do is set a blank screen saver but have the power settings leave the TV on. This makes it act like a monitor (though of course uses more power if that's a concern for you).
 
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Just got this TV to use as a PC monitor and so far I'm very impressed with the quality. The input lag in PC mode is not too bad and the response time is good enough for me. The viewing angle does wash out the colors a bit around the edges of the screen at my viewing distance but not enough to really bother me. However, the one thing that has been bothering me is what I believe to be the anti reflective coating on the TV. I'm surprised I haven't seen anyone talk about this on the forums, so I thought id share my experience. I'm not sure if its just my particular set but It's very noticeable on white screens like when browsing web pages for example. It looks like a kind of dirty smudge/rainbow effect or like there's grease on the screen I guess you could say. It also seems to appear more in certain areas of the screen and its more intense at certain angles. What's also weird about this is that the effect doesn't appear to affect about 2 inches around the entire edge of the screen. Has anyone else had this problem?
 
I hadn't really noticed before but I think I see what you are saying. For me, I'm coming from the Asus Rog Swift which has a super aggressive AR coat. The Samsung is actually much more clear than that so I'm happy.
 
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