NVIDIA Announces The New Titan X

[Neon01]

I noticed from some of the photos floating around that there are no warranty stickers on the Titan XP screws, but does anyone know what Nvidia's official policy is on warranty repairs for GPUs that have had the cooler removed? This thing begs to be water cooled, but I'd hate to lose the warranty on such an expensive piece of kit.

At only 8 years old, he's a lucky kid.

Ha! The last line is priceless. I feel the same about my son. Just remembering back in the day when I had to buy everything with my own cash because my parents hated gaming (and generally all things electronic). My son will never know the pain of having to buy parts from a computer "show and sale" with his own allowance. Or having to pay for his own dial up ISP connection.

Instead, he's got all major video game consoles, iOS tablets, Android tablets, cutting edge TV/display technology, 7.1 hi fi home theater, and virtual reality all at his disposal. I would have been in seventh heaven.

 

[Rizen]

So I ordered my EK block + backplate at the same time in the same order. It says in the original email that it would be delivered by Aug 19 but I never received an email confirming that they shipped the parts. Did anyone else who received their block receive notifications or did it just show up? I'm wondering if they are holding off on shipping until the backplates come in.

 

[Zarathustra[H]]

So I ordered my EK block + backplate at the same time in the same order. It says in the original email that it would be delivered by Aug 19 but I never received an email confirming that they shipped the parts. Did anyone else who received their block receive notifications or did it just show up? I'm wondering if they are holding off on shipping until the backplates come in.

Are they in the same order or in separate orders?

I believe EK holds orders until all parts of the order are available. At least that's what they did when I ordered my block and three bottles of EKoolant concentrate.

 

[Rizen]

The original order email says "Please note that your order contains Pre-Order products. These products will be shipped to you once they are available." It's not clear to me if that means ALL products or just the back-ordered ones. I just had one order, not two.

 

[Zarathustra[H]]

I noticed from some of the photos floating around that there are no warranty stickers on the Titan XP screws, but does anyone know what Nvidia's official policy is on warranty repairs for GPUs that have had the cooler removed? This thing begs to be water cooled, but I'd hate to lose the warranty on such an expensive piece of kit.



Ha! The last line is priceless. I feel the same about my son. Just remembering back in the day when I had to buy everything with my own cash because my parents hated gaming (and generally all things electronic). My son will never know the pain of having to buy parts from a computer "show and sale" with his own allowance. Or having to pay for his own dial up ISP connection.

Instead, he's got all major video game consoles, iOS tablets, Android tablets, cutting edge TV/display technology, 7.1 hi fi home theater, and virtual reality all at his disposal. I would have been in seventh heaven.

Yep, he will never know the pain of being on severely obsolete hardware.

I got my first computer, a 286, the year the 486 came out.

I upgraded it to a 486 the year the Pentium launched.

Wasn't able to upgrade to a Pentium until about when the Pentium II launched, and my Pentium 150 (pre MMX) overclocked to 200Mhz and a 6mb Voodoo 1 was my primary system all the way until the fall of 2000 when I was able to save up for a Futon 650 (which overclocked to 950!) and a GeForce 2 GTS.

Ever since then I've been able to stay reasonably current.

 

[Zarathustra[H]]

Yep, he will never know the pain of being on severely obsolete hardware.

I got my first computer, a 286, the year the 486 came out.

I upgraded it to a 486 the year the Pentium launched.

Wasn't able to upgrade to a Pentium until about when the Pentium II launched, and my Pentium 150 (pre MMX) overclocked to 200Mhz and a 6mb Voodoo 1 was my primary system all the way until the fall of 2000 when I was able to save up for a Futon 650 (which overclocked to 950!) and a GeForce 2 GTS.

Ever since then I've been able to stay reasonably current.

Lol, Duron, not Futon.

Thanks phone.

 

[thesmokingman]

I noticed from some of the photos floating around that there are no warranty stickers on the Titan XP screws, but does anyone know what Nvidia's official policy is on warranty repairs for GPUs that have had the cooler removed? This thing begs to be water cooled, but I'd hate to lose the warranty on such an expensive piece of kit.

Technically, they cannot void warranties just for changing the cooler or servicing the cooler as it's actually against US Federal Law.Though most companies knows this and the fact that most consumers don't leads to these stickers being used as a scare tactic. There's a thread in the root video card forum on this very subject.

The original order email says "Please note that your order contains Pre-Order products. These products will be shipped to you once they are available." It's not clear to me if that means ALL products or just the back-ordered ones. I just had one order, not two.

You probably only paid shipping for one shipment/order, so I would not lose sleep expecting EK to foot the bill to ship items separately.

 

[Rizen]

I didn't expect that, especially given that shipping is coming from Slovenia. I just wasn't sure if the backplates were in stock yet. They had an ETA listed of August.

 

[Zarathustra[H]]

Technically, they cannot void warranties just for changing the cooler or servicing the cooler as it's actually against US Federal Law.Though most companies knows this and the fact that most consumers don't leads to these stickers being used as a scare tactic. There's a thread in the root video card forum on this very subject.

Yep.

If you damage something while in the process - however - don't expect them to cover it.

It's not that difficult to damage a board when working on it. I slipped with a screwdriver when I took the cooler off of my brand new Radeon 7970 two weeks after launch, and cut a trace on the board I was never able to repair.

I've also heard of some people cracking GPU cores when putting aftermarket coolers on.

Avoidable if you are careful, but not unheard of.

 

[Zarathustra[H]]

I didn't expect that, especially given that shipping is coming from Slovenia. I just wasn't sure if the backplates were in stock yet. They had an ETA listed of August.

Blocks had an estimated ship date of August 16th, but actually shipped a little early (at least mine did)

Backplates had an estimated ship date of August 29th. We'll have to wait and see if they ship early too.

 

[Creepin_D]

Nice!

Did you do a baseline with the stock cooler? How much of an improvement did you get on water? Those temps are awesome, btw. I'm hoping for similar results. What kind of radiator capacity do you have in there. The one 480mm rad, or is there more we can't see from that shot?

I'm still working on mine. I'm building my first loop, and installing everything for the first time in my case, so it's been taking some time.

Decided to flush it with Sysprep (because it came with my tubing for free). When i get home this evening, I'll be draining the sysprep, flushing it with distilled water to get as much of it as possible out, and then filling it back up with my coolant, leak testing some more, and doing case gymnastics to get the air out. After that I have to reflow my Indigo Extreme on my CPU, and then, FINALLY, I'll be able to get some GPU results.

I'm just dreading that I'll hit the power button when I am finally ready, and nothing will come on

Nice!

Did you do a baseline with the stock cooler? How much of an improvement did you get on water? Those temps are awesome, btw. I'm hoping for similar results. What kind of radiator capacity do you have in there. The one 480mm rad, or is there more we can't see from that shot?

I'm still working on mine. I'm building my first loop, and installing everything for the first time in my case, so it's been taking some time.

Decided to flush it with Sysprep (because it came with my tubing for free). When i get home this evening, I'll be draining the sysprep, flushing it with distilled water to get as much of it as possible out, and then filling it back up with my coolant, leak testing some more, and doing case gymnastics to get the air out. After that I have to reflow my Indigo Extreme on my CPU, and then, FINALLY, I'll be able to get some GPU results.

I'm just dreading that I'll hit the power button when I am finally ready, and nothing will come on

I did not do a baseline, I didn't even power up my card with the stock cooler, went straight to water hahaha. I'm using 2x 480mm rads. Those pics remind me of what I use to be like when I first started water cooling. I'm not as cautious anymore, which is probably a bad thing hahaha

 

[Zarathustra[H]]

I did not do a baseline, I didn't even power up my card with the stock cooler, went straight to water hahaha. I'm using 2x 480mm rads. Those pics remind me of what I use to be like when I first started water cooling. I'm not as cautious anymore, which is probably a bad thing hahaha

Well I'm glad I was. I had a leak in one of my XSPC 90 degree bends in the swivel joint.

I get the impression the first time you test the loop you are more careful, after that you have a sense of comfort in the parts you have.

My feeling is parts - if left untouched - either leak from the start or don't leak at all.

I could be wrong though.

 

[Neon01]

Technically, they cannot void warranties just for changing the cooler or servicing the cooler as it's actually against US Federal Law.Though most companies knows this and the fact that most consumers don't leads to these stickers being used as a scare tactic. There's a thread in the root video card forum on this very subject.

Right, I did see that, but I just like to know what the official policy is just to set my own expectations in dealing with a company. I'll stop being a lazy SOB though and go look it up on their website

Fifteen years ago I owned a 2000 Audi S4. If you know anything about this car, it's probably that 99.9999% (no hyperbole) of them had turbo failure. Shocker, its turbos failed. I happened to have some (very unrelated) performance mods on the car, and the warranty claim was denied by Audi of America, leaving me with either a broken car or $8k credit card bill. Naturally, I threatened legal action (small claims) to their registered agent in my state. I then proceeded to spend dozens of hours on the phone in appeal, prepared countless documents and records, spent hundreds of dollars on a professional root cause failure analysis performed by a licensed KKK repair facility (to prove the failure mode they claimed was false), and hours spent consulting online legal resources and my attorney buddy. Yet still, my eventual settlement covered far less than the total bill. At that point I called it "good enough" and got on with my life.

So I'm *intimately* familiar with the Magnuson Moss warranty act. When a company wants to deny you something, a lack of action on their part is neither costly nor difficult. Yet the consumer, right or wrong, often has a very long, uphill battle to actually obtain restitution. Though you're 100% correct, I like to know what I'm walking into with these kinds of things.

 

[thesmokingman]

Right, I did see that, but I just like to know what the official policy is just to set my own expectations in dealing with a company. I'll stop being a lazy SOB though and go look it up on their website

Fifteen years ago I owned a 2000 Audi S4. If you know anything about this car, it's probably that 99.9999% (no hyperbole) of them had turbo failure. Shocker, its turbos failed. I happened to have some (very unrelated) performance mods on the car, and the warranty claim was denied by Audi of America, leaving me with either a broken car or $8k credit card bill. Naturally, I threatened legal action (small claims) to their registered agent in my state. I then proceeded to spend dozens of hours on the phone in appeal, prepared countless documents and records, spent hundreds of dollars on a professional root cause failure analysis performed by a licensed KKK repair facility (to prove the failure mode they claimed was false), and hours spent consulting online legal resources and my attorney buddy. Yet still, my eventual settlement covered far less than the total bill. At that point I called it "good enough" and got on with my life.

So I'm *intimately* familiar with the Magnuson Moss warranty act. When a company wants to deny you something, a lack of action on their part is neither costly nor difficult. Yet the consumer, right or wrong, often has a very long, uphill battle to actually obtain restitution. Though you're 100% correct, I like to know what I'm walking into with these kinds of things.

Yeap, even though the law is on our side, it's still an uphill fight. On point, don't cause any damage and put things back to stock in the case of an rma. And remember the 1st rule of Fight Club...

 

[Rizen]

I got my shipping notification from EK this morning. The delivery includes my backplate, so it looks like those will be going out a bit early too.

 

[Zarathustra[H]]

I got my shipping notification from EK this morning. The delivery includes my backplate, so it looks like those will be going out a bit early too.

Nice.

I'm hoping I can get that backplate on without taking the GPU out.

I thought I had plenty of space, and I still mostly do, except for two screws, one on each side, blocked by RAM, so the RAM will have to come out.

My left bank of RAM has a tube over it, so that will complicate getting the RAM out and back in again, but I'm still hopeful I can pull it off.

 

[Rizen]

That's a really nice setup you have there. I am wondering what temperatures will be like for me - I only have a single 360mm rad and I have my 4770K on it already. I think it should be fine but my temperatures might be a bit hotter than some of you posting 33C load temps lol. Doesn't matter to me as long as it's cool enough to prevent throttling. I do want to get a bigger case and add in another 480mm radiator to my loop. I like that integrated pump you have in the reservoir there too - do you mind sharing what model that is?

 

[Ieldra]

That's a really nice setup you have there. I am wondering what temperatures will be like for me - I only have a single 360mm rad and I have my 4770K on it already. I think it should be fine but my temperatures might be a bit hotter than some of you posting 33C load temps lol. Doesn't matter to me as long as it's cool enough to prevent throttling. I do want to get a bigger case and add in another 480mm radiator to my loop. I like that integrated pump you have in the reservoir there too - do you mind sharing what model that is?

The thermal interface beneath the heatspreader is the culprit of your high temps

 

[Rizen]

The thermal interface beneath the heatspreader is the culprit of your high temps

Huh? I was referring to the GPU. My CPU is delidded and direct-die watercooled. I don't have a heatspreader

 

[Zarathustra[H]]

That's a really nice setup you have there.

Well, it's not a work of art like some of the builds over in the watercooling subforum, but I never expected that. I went about it from a "all go, no show" perspective.

I could probably make it prettier by sleeving my power cables, and taking the brown rubber vibration dampeners off the Noctua fans, but sleeving is painstakingly time consuming, and the rubber is there for a reason. I'm not going to obsess over it. I'm going to close the lid and then not look at it again until the next time I upgrade. (well, apart from checking the water level...)

It should perform well (I hope).

There are 5 140mm radiator spaces in total, 3 of them 45mm thick, 2 of them 86mm thick. I should get similar performance to about 7 120mm radiator slots.

I went with the industrial Noctua fans as they are one of the very few 140mm fans with decent static pressure. They're not cheap either. I hate the fact that they have to put brown on everything though. Unless its chocolate, hair, wood or a very small number of other things, I hate brown. IMHO it's the color of poop. At least the black-brown of the industrial series looks better than the tan-brown of their consumer fans.

 

[Zarathustra[H]]

I am wondering what temperatures will be like for me - I only have a single 360mm rad and I have my 4770K on it already. I think it should be fine but my temperatures might be a bit hotter than some of you posting 33C load temps lol. Doesn't matter to me as long as it's cool enough to prevent throttling. I do want to get a bigger case and add in another 480mm radiator to my loop. I like that integrated pump you have in the reservoir there too - do you mind sharing what model that is?

The pump is a XSPC Photon 270 D5 pump. It's much larger than it looks, and was difficult to fit and fill. It's actually my least favorite part of my loop, because it only has one opening up top. I got a fillport adapter for it, and screwed in a tube with fitting to fill it, but this results in there being no way for the air to escape during filling, meaning filling was a SLOOOW process of massaging the tube to get the air bubbles out and let the water in.

Once filled it appears to work very nicely though.

Yeah, Creepin_D's temps above are crazy. I hope I can match them, but who knows. At 8x120 he has a little bit more radiator capacity than my 5x140mm, but not a ton and both of us are probably up against diminishing returns either way.

I should have my load temps this evening, provided I don't have the nightmare "flip the switch, nothing happens" problem after a major surgery like this.

 

[Rizen]

I'm a fan of functionality before looks, so I appreciate the simplicity of your setup. Mine is even more basic, but doesn't look as good. Still works fine though. My CPU temp on a single 360 radiator - mind you this is a 4770K, running at 1.32v, and I live in Florida - is around 29-31C idle and usually runs between 45-50C in games, with occasional momentary spikes to 55-60.

 

[Neon01]

The pump is a XSPC Photon 270 D5 pump. It's much larger than it looks, and was difficult to fit and fill. It's actually my least favorite part of my loop, because it only has one opening up top. I got a fillport adapter for it, and screwed in a tube with fitting to fill it, but this results in there being no way for the air to escape during filling, meaning filling was a SLOOOW process of massaging the tube to get the air bubbles out and let the water in.

Once filled it appears to work very nicely though.

Yeah, Creepin_D's temps above are crazy. I hope I can match them, but who knows. At 8x120 he has a little bit more radiator capacity than my 5x140mm, but not a ton and both of us are probably up against diminishing returns either way.

I should have my load temps this evening, provided I don't have the nightmare "flip the switch, nothing happens" problem after a major surgery like this.

I'm hoping for similar numbers as well. I can see you two subscribe to the same policy I do - you can't have too much cooling (9x120 here, all driven by GT AP15s). My OCed SLI 980tis run at about 39-40C after an hour of intense gaming, but I'm sure a single Titan X will be much easier to cool.

I've currently got a MCP35X pump with the kit reservoir that's pretty long in the tooth (about 4 years old now), so I just ordered the Swiftech MCP50X and reservoir. Unfortunately its the same teeny reservoir, but I've read the 50X pump is dead quiet and more powerful than the 35X, which will be nice. The 35X has a pretty annoying whine if you take it above about 36% duty cycle (PWM). At that rate, I get about 2.2LPM flow with a water temp of 27.5 C according to my sensors.

The stars are aligning and my Titan X, EK block, and new pump/reservoir should all be here tomorrow. The wife and kids will be out of town for the day, so it'll be like Christmas for me

Will post my results after some benches when I get it all installed.

 

[Zarathustra[H]]

I'm hoping for similar numbers as well. I can see you two subscribe to the same policy I do - you can't have too much cooling (9x120 here, all driven by GT AP15s). My OCed SLI 980tis run at about 39-40C after an hour of intense gaming, but I'm sure a single Titan X will be much easier to cool.

Yep.

My philosophy is, the more radiator capacity, the slower I can spin the fans, the slower I can spin he fans the less noise.

This is the first time I'm doing a custom water loop, but my approach was simply, "I'll cram as many radiators as I can in this case I have" and then build the re rest from there.

 

[Ieldra]

Yep.

My philosophy is, the more radiator capacity, the slower I can spin the fans, the slower I can spin he fans the less noise.

This is the first time I'm doing a custom water loop, but my approach was simply, "I'll cram as many radiators as I can in this case I have" and then build the re rest from there.

I saw a build somewhere I really liked, essentially both sides of the case were arrangements of 200mm rads with 200mm fans, brilliant

 

[NotJay]

well i got my titan x but still waiting on water block.. high temp / noise / throttling makes me sad

 

[Zarathustra[H]]

I saw a build somewhere I really liked, essentially both sides of the case were arrangements of 200mm rads with 200mm fans, brilliant

Interesting. I wonder what kind of static pressure you can get out of 200mm fans. I assume they are mostly designed for airflow...

For a while I toyed with the idea of cutting a hole in my case door and putting a Phobya Extreme Supernove 1260 with 9 (or maybe even 18 in push-pull!!!) 140mm fans blowing out through it there

Then I decided that was a bit too ridiculous and went with something more rational

 

[Ieldra]

Interesting. I wonder what kind of static pressure you can get out of 200mm fans. I assume they are mostly designed for airflow...

For a while I toyed with the idea of cutting a hole in my case door and putting a Phobya Extreme Supernove 1260 with 9 (or maybe even 18 in push-pull!!!) 140mm fans blowing out through it there

Then I decided that was a bit too ridiculous and went with something more rational

You could make up for the lower rpm to some extent by using fans with more blades

 

[Astral Abyss]

Well, it's not a work of art like some of the builds over in the watercooling subforum, but I never expected that. I went about it from a "all go, no show" perspective.

I could probably make it prettier by sleeving my power cables, and taking the brown rubber vibration dampeners off the Noctua fans, but sleeving is painstakingly time consuming, and the rubber is there for a reason. I'm not going to obsess over it. I'm going to close the lid and then not look at it again until the next time I upgrade. (well, apart from checking the water level...)

It should perform well (I hope).

There are 5 140mm radiator spaces in total, 3 of them 45mm thick, 2 of them 86mm thick. I should get similar performance to about 7 120mm radiator slots.

I went with the industrial Noctua fans as they are one of the very few 140mm fans with decent static pressure. They're not cheap either. I hate the fact that they have to put brown on everything though. Unless its chocolate, hair, wood or a very small number of other things, I hate brown. IMHO it's the color of poop. At least the black-brown of the industrial series looks better than the tan-brown of their consumer fans.

I have 2 of those same Noctua fans on my radiator. One thing I'd like to mention about them that shouldn't be overlooked, is that when mounted horizontally, they don't vibrate or rattle like most lesser fans will... especially when at low rpm. Quality parts and balanced extremely well. That alone was worth the price for me.

 

[Rizen]

Yep Noctua is my go-to. Especially because I run my PC 24x7 and I was having issues with other brand's fans failing after ~1 year of usage. If it's a cheap $5 fan then okay, but these were decently priced fans that would still fail. Noctua is probably the most expensive, but if it means I can run them silently for years it's worth the cost.

 

[Neon01]

Yep Noctua is my go-to. Especially because I run my PC 24x7 and I was having issues with other brand's fans failing after ~1 year of usage. If it's a cheap $5 fan then okay, but these were decently priced fans that would still fail. Noctua is probably the most expensive, but if it means I can run them silently for years it's worth the cost.

I should check those out. It'd be great to have a fan solution that isn't crazy expensive (Gentle Typhoons). I've always used them because they seemed to dominate the benchmarks years ago, but maybe things have changed.

I know what you mean though, a good ball bearing fan will last forever.

 

[Rizen]

Noctua is probably more expensive than Gentle Typhoons, but the packaging/construction is (imo) better. Certainly nothing wrong with the Typhoons though, I'm still using 3x GTs on my loop. They're not dead so not replacing them

 

[thesmokingman]

I was waiting around for my delivery, thinking dammit where is it? Then I realize that it's only Friday? It's scheduled for Sat delivery... I hate when that happens.

 

[Zarathustra[H]]

Time for some EK Fullcover temp results:

I ran Heaven on a loop at 1920x1080 and eveything maxxed for these tests.

Stock cooler baseline: (Ambient 73F)

All settings stock, including fan profile and power limit: 1650Mhz, 51% fan, 84C
Same as above, but 100% fan manually set: 1790Mhz, 62C
100% fan + overclock: +160 max stable results in 1987Mhz stable and 65C

Testing with EK Fullcover block: (Ambient 74F)

All settings stock: 1886Mhz, 32-33C
Same overclock as baseline (+160): 2050Mhz 33-34C
New max overclock: (+170Mhz) 2063Mhz 33-34C


So, it looks like just dropping the temps was enough to lift me from 1987Mhz to 2050Mhz. Now my top stable OC is 2063Mhz

Going to need more voltage and a higher power limit to go higher. Hoping for the best from BIOS mods! I certainly have enough temperature headroom!

Some final pics to go along with this:




Now I need to find someone else with a i7-3930K and a Supremacy EVO block to compare temps with, because I'm not sure if I got a good mount of the block to the CPU, or if I need to redo it.

I'm getting stock (no overclock) Prime95 max load temps of 54C at 74F ambient.

This sounds a little high to me, compared to how awesome my GPU numbers were, but at the same time, I know that these old Sandy Bridge-E chips do give off a fair bit more heat than the latest CPU's, so maybe this is normal? I'm going to have to overclock it and see what it looks like then.


I have my fans set to stay at minimum speed (25%, or ~500rpm) until the water hits 28C, then gradually ramp up to 100% at 32C water temp.

Thus far in both CPU and GPU load tests, the water temp has maxed out at about 29C with a fan speed of ~1100rpm to 1150rpm

Considering 74F is 23.3C, I guess that means I'm at a ΔT of 5.7C which isn't terrible. I guess I could improve on that by ramping up fan speeds higher, but I'm not sure I want to.

 

[Zarathustra[H]]

I should check those out. It'd be great to have a fan solution that isn't crazy expensive (Gentle Typhoons). I've always used them because they seemed to dominate the benchmarks years ago, but maybe things have changed.

I know what you mean though, a good ball bearing fan will last forever.

I don't know how much you pay for gentle typhoons, but these Industrial PWM versions of Noctua's fans aren't exactly cheap either.

I do like that they can turn completely off with PWM though and have a very good minimum fan speed of 25% (500rpm) at which speed they are VERY quiet.

At max speed (2000rpm) they are LOUD though.

 

[chenw]

My only gripe with Noctua is their colour scheme (that brown version), their Industrial and grey fan look much less intrusives aesthetically.

 

[Zarathustra[H]]

My only gripe with Noctua is their colour scheme (that brown version), their Industrial and grey fan look much less intrusives aesthetically.

Yeah, the industrial is what I use. If you leave the rubber isolators on there, (like I have) you still have some unfortunate brown though.

 

[Neon01]

All settings stock, including fan profile and power limit: 1650Mhz, 51% fan, 84C
Same as above, but 100% fan manually set: 1790Mhz, 62C
100% fan + overclock: +160 max stable results in 1987Mhz stable and 65C

Testing with EK Fullcover block: (Ambient 74F)

All settings stock: 1886Mhz, 32-33C
Same overclock as baseline (+160): 2050Mhz 33-34C
New max overclock: (+170Mhz) 2063Mhz 33-34C

Great post. Nice to see real world numbers. After seeing nearly every major reviewer hit over 2100mhz with OC testing, I have to wonder whether there really is some kind of reviewer BIOS responsible for the great numbers.

Did you happen to play with the power or thermal limit at all? Or voltage control in any way? Thanks again for posting. Very nice results with the water block - turned what could have been a disappointment into a nice success.

 

[chenw]

Yeah, the industrial is what I use. If you leave the rubber isolators on there, (like I have) you still have some unfortunate brown though.

Well, one way to look at it is, far less risky to spray paint a couple of rubber pieces than it is spray painting an entire fan.

 

[Zarathustra[H]]

Great post. Nice to see real world numbers. After seeing nearly every major reviewer hit over 2100mhz with OC testing, I have to wonder whether there really is some kind of reviewer BIOS responsible for the great numbers.

Did you happen to play with the power or thermal limit at all? Or voltage control in any way? Thanks again for posting. Very nice results with the water block - turned what could have been a disappointment into a nice success.

To my knowledge there is no voltage control available yet.

For the overclocked tests I did set power and temp limits to max.