NCASE M1: a crowdfunded Mini-ITX case (updates in first post)

[Yura]

Hi guys!
What do you thing about EK-KIT EK-KIT S120 and their additional GPU expanding component for it?
Thanks for your input.

 

[rfarmer]

Hi guys!
What do you thing about EK-KIT s360 and their additional GPU expanding component for it?
Thanks for your input.

It's a decent little starter kit, you do realize that a 360mm radiator won't fit in the M1?

 

[Yura]

It's a decent little starter kit, you do realize that a 360mm radiator won't fit in the M1?

OMG thank you rfarmer, my bad. I was about EK-KIT S120. Fixed.

 

[pendragon1]

external mount that 360!

 

[Wibbles]

NCASE Tracking Update!

Mine too.

By happy happenstance, it seems all of my remaining pieces will be arriving on the same day.

 

[Boil]

My build is finally done!

Just missing my acrylic window which is on its way

WOW…!

VERY nice build…!!!

Now I am going to have to demand build specs & temps (ranging from idle to full load on both CPU & GPU)…!!!

Is that a Hardware Labs 92mm radiator on the back exhaust there…?!?

Seriously, this is a REALLY nice build…!

 

[rfarmer]

OMG thank you rfarmer, my bad. I was about EK-KIT S120. Fixed.

The 120 would be fine if you were just cooling your cpu, if you plan on adding the gpu in the loop I would look at EK-Kit S240

 

[-H1N1-]

My build is finally done!

Just missing my acrylic window which is on its way

Very nice Sebbie! What Hardware are u using and which temps to you get?

 

[Sebbie]

WOW…!

VERY nice build…!!!

Now I am going to have to demand build specs & temps (ranging from idle to full load on both CPU & GPU)…!!!

Is that a Hardware Labs 92mm radiator on the back exhaust there…?!?

Seriously, this is a REALLY nice build…!

I actually purchased and tried the HWL Stealth 92mm radiator both but they were 54mm thick and with a standard 25mm thick fan it was really tight with the fittings on the CPU block so i have an Alphacool 92mm radiator there instead (only 45mm thick)

Very nice Sebbie! What Hardware are u using and which temps to you get?

Full hardware list

PC components:
MB: Asus VII Impact
CPU: Intel i7-4790K
GPU: reference GTX 980ti
Ram: Kingston HyperX beast 2x8gb 2400mhz
PSU: Corsair SF600
SSD:
Samsung 950 pro 512gb M.2 (main drive used as boot)
Samsung 850 pro 512gb
Seagate Mobile 2TB HDD for Storage
Monitor: ASUS ROG swift PG348Q

Accessories:
Fan Controller: NZXT Grid+
Cables: Custom red/black cables from Moddiy.com
LED: Phobya high density white

Watercooling:
All EK waterblocks for both CPU/Motherboard, GPU and RAM slots.
Radiators: Alphacool 92mm (45mm thick) and Alphacool 240mm (30mm thick)
Fans: 2 x Silverstone FN123 15mm slim fans and 1 x Gentle Typhoon 92mm
Reservoir: EKWB X-RES 100 D5
Pump: Alphacool D5-VPP655
All fittings are from Bitspower!! never go down on the quality of your fittings!
Tubing: Mayhems Ultra clear 13/10mm
Coolant: Mayhems pastel Red


Temps:
Idle: CPU 30-33 degree celcius GPU 28-30 degree celcius
Load: CPU and GPU max out to approximatel 50-55 degree celcius while playing WoW for 1 hour straight with settings maxed out!
All fans are set to silent mode only running at 40% speed until it hit 60degree and it will ramp up to 50% speed using the NZXT grid+


Think it covers all

 

[-H1N1-]

Thanks!!! I will go for watercooling in the next few weeks, but till now i´m not sure if i use the radiator on the bottom or on the side ...

 

[Sebbie]

Thanks!!! I will go for watercooling in the next few weeks, but till now i´m not sure if i use the radiator on the bottom or on the side ...

The side radiator will give you best cooling performance since you can use it with standard 25mm thick fans and it can draw cool air from the outside more effcient than the bottom radiator!

 

[Boil]

What direction are the fans running…? Blowing out, or sucking in…?

Are you running the sound daughter card on the M7I…?

Would you think there is room to access the U.2 port in such a config as yours if the MB was the M8I…?

Any pics of the build-up itself…?

Attachment/mounting of the pump/res comb…?

What is the length of the GPU & how much clearance to the pump/res combo…?

Details on the windowed side panel & attachment methods (once you get the actual window in)…

Again, AWESOME build…! SO much water cooling goodness, all crammed in the (relatively) tiny M1 chassis, but right there for the whole world to see…!

Damnit…! Now I want to build a full-on water cooled M1 gaming rig again…!

But that would totally be blowing up the budget…

/sadface

/gnerdrage

 

[Sebbie]

What direction are the fans running…? Blowing out, or sucking in…?

Are you running the sound daughter card on the M7I…?

Would you think there is room to access the U.2 port in such a config as yours if the MB was the M8I…?

Any pics of the build-up itself…?

Attachment/mounting of the pump/res comb…?

Details on the windowed side panel & attachment methods (once you get the actual window in)…

Again, AWESOME build…! SO much water cooling goodness, all crammed in the (relatively) tiny M1 chassis, but right there for the whole world to see…!

Damnit…! Now I want to build a full-on water cooled M1 gaming rig again…!

But that would totally be blowing up the budget…

/sadface

/gnerdrage

1. My fans are all exhausting/blowing out hot air, since i earlier on had installed the side radiator before this build sucking in cold air from outside inside the case this gave alot highder temperatures due to such a small case.
Since my fans are blowing out they will suck in alot of dust from all the vent holes from top/right side panels i have attached Demcifilters all over the place to prevent dust build up

2. I have installed the soundcard incase i change my speakers some day, since i got the Bose companion 5 speakers and they have a build in sound card in the subwoofer so i cant use onboard soundcard

3. Well with the 92mm radiator installed you cant access it once its fullt build, but if you installed the cable before and route it before installing the radiator you are good with alot of perfection/tweezers you could prob access it after radiator installation but it will be hard!

4. i have 3D printet a mounting bracket which utilize the 4 screw holes in the front of the Ncase M1 (search "D5 3d print mounting bracket", in this thread and some awesome dude have made the .skp and .stl file)

5. i had the window water cut and the window is 35mm from the edges giving the dimensions 265mm x 190mm. I was planning on having a hardened glass window but cant get it thinner than 4mm and there is not enought space between the fitting under the reservoir than 1-2mm roghly so i went with an acrylic window 1mm thick which have dimensions of: 275mmx200mm which will give it 5mm of a gap between the edge of the acrylic window and the watercut hole.


Thanks for the kinds words
This had been a long build, i have changed and redo my computer 5-6 times using different cases but i have finally settle on this awesome case!
This has been the most challenging watercool build i've done so little space and i had to redo my tube routing 3-4 times

 

[Anshur]

Spoiler: Photos

So I've installed my new fans, however I'm doubting the A15-pwm on the left. Do you guys think it's superfluous ? Would I be better off without it since it blows directly into the CPU cooler (nf-f12) ?

Also, I have the A15 (on the left) and the f12 (on the right) on the same pwm header. Does it matter ? Should I repalce the A15 with a f12 so that I have the fans on the PWM splitter ?

Would be gratefull for any and all advice

 

[RIRed48]

My build is finally done!

Just missing my acrylic window which is on its way

Sebbie.... SWEET!! Must have been fingers at strange angles going on to get all that in there... Funny, how to me, it looks rather retro 'Back To The Future'-ish !

 

[RIRed48]

I have both the Corsair H100iV1 and the H100iV2 AIO's coming....

I have read that the original Corsair's (V1) hoses are more flexible than the V2's ones, which would help me in my upcoming (next week) build with the M1 case and an Asus Z170I Pro Gaming MB. However, other posts have said the H100iV2's CPU block more easily fits more Asus MB's than the original..... HMM.......

What do you folks think?

 

[Sebbie]

Sebbie.... SWEET!! Must have been fingers at strange angles going on to get all that in there... Funny, how to me, it looks rather retro 'Back To The Future'-ish !

Ye, prob the lightning!
The route from tage reservoir to the bottom radiator was a pain! You cant see it on this picture but it goes around all the cabled right under the PSU and Then Down to the radiator!
And there is a seriouse cable mess Down there

 

[Qrash]

I have both the Corsair H100iV1 and the H100iV2 AIO's coming....

I have read that the original Corsair's (V1) hoses are more flexible than the V2's ones, which would help me in my upcoming (next week) build with the M1 case and an Asus Z170I Pro Gaming MB. However, other posts have said the H100iV2's CPU block more easily fits more Asus MB's than the original..... HMM.......

What do you folks think?

I thnk this post from Necere (the M1 designer) sums up the differences between the two versions:

Both can work well, it just depends on what other parts you're using and what your priorities are.

I should note that the H100i v2 is the same as the H100i GTX (for fitment purposes, at least), and it's not a good fit for the M1 due to the lack of swivel barbs on the pump, and long/stiff tubing. The original H100i or any number of other Asetek-based AIOs from other manufacturers are a better choice.

 

[RIRed48]

Qrash...

Thanks for info. I guess I can't keep up with all these posts on all the different issues of everyone's individual builds. (Thought I remembered Necere's post, but wasn't sure)

So, I'll keep the Corsair H100iV1 as my AIO cooler and return the newer V2. (Although, I think someone at Anand forums said the V1 of that Corsair H100 AIO is somewhat of a tough fit on some Asus MB's... )

I'm thinking I'll have the M1 case next week sometime, and then I can start the new build. (preparing psychologically... for gnashing of teeth and swearing...not as good as you guys at this stuff).

 

[Yura]

The 120 would be fine if you were just cooling your cpu, if you plan on adding the gpu in the loop I would look at EK-Kit S240

Hi rfarmer,

Many thanks for your suggestion. My M1 on it’s way and most likely next week I’ll receive it. This time I’m going with GTX 1080 and i6700 and concerning if EK-KIT S240 can handle both of em? Or better stick with air cooling to avoid experiments? I appreciate your opinion.

Best

 

[Qrash]

Qrash...

Thanks for info. I guess I can't keep up with all these posts on all the different issues of everyone's individual builds. (Thought I remembered Necere's post, but wasn't sure)

So, I'll keep the Corsair H100iV1 as my AIO cooler and return the newer V2. (Although, I think someone at Anand forums said the V1 of that Corsair H100 AIO is somewhat of a tough fit on some Asus MB's... )

I'm thinking I'll have the M1 case next week sometime, and then I can start the new build. (preparing psychologically... for gnashing of teeth and swearing...not as good as you guys at this stuff).

Take your time and plan ahead. I must have removed compnents several times the first time I built in the M1 because they were blocking something or other. My suggested build order (primarlity for an air cooling build) is:

1. Strip the M1, removing all panels, the drive cage, and the side bracket. Keep
2. Open the accessories box and organize the mounting screws, grommets, brackets, and everything else as per the photo on the Ncase website in the FAQ tab.
3. If using the drive cage, prepare it by mounting the drives into it with the appropriate screws and grommets.
4. If using 2.5 inch drives attach the necessary mounting screws and grommets. Use the stacking brackets if you want to attach two drives together. If they will be mounted on the outside of the frame's front panel, both drives must be 7 mm or less in height (thickness?). Taller (thicker?) 2.5 inch drives can be combined and mounted inside the front panel, but be aware of the distance to the adjacent power supply.
5. If using an optical drive: remove the two brackets on the front panel and attach them to the sides of the drive. (Those screws are tiny!). Don't attach this drive to the frame until the end. It's easy and leaving it off can make other tasks easier.
6. Install the CPU into the socket on the motherboard.
7. Attach any mounting brackets for the CPU cooler to the motherboard. I don't know if liquid cooling CPU blocks or AIO block-pump devices should be attached at this point or later when the motherboard is in the M1 frame. Sorry.
8. Install RAM onto the motherboard.
9. If there are daughterboards or cards with wires, such as a Wi-Fi or Bluetooth, that need routing around motherboard components or under the motherboard itself, attach those to the motherboard and route any wires while the motherboard is still outside the M1 frame.
10. Install any other components that attach or mount to the motherboard, such as M.2 or mSATA devices.
11. Install any bottom fans or a single 3.5 inch drive to the bottom of the M1 frame Attach cables to the single 3.5 inch drive before mounting it to the frame.
12. Consider moving the external power socket at the top of the rear panel from the corner position to the center position. This can be helpful with some large CPU air coolers or when there is a radiator and fan on the rear position of the side bracket.
13. Install the I/O Shield into the M1 frame (so easy to forget) and then install the motherboard into the M1. Attach any Wi-Fi/Bluetooth cables to the I/O Shield.
14. Install the power supply adapter frame.
15. Connect modular power supply, data cables, and Front I/O cables to the motherboard. The power supply end of modular PS cables are easy to attach to the PS unit so leave that until later, but route the cable towards the front of the case where the PS unit will be..
16. Practice and finalize fan placement and connect fan cables to the motherboard headers. Let the fans hang outside the M1 frame, except for the rear panel fan, if you plan to use one (mount that one now) and any bottom fans (should already be attached). Use fan splitters and extension cables where appropriate or necessary, such as for bottom fans, dual CPU cooler or radiator fans or to reach the front side bracket location. These can make disassembly (for cleaning or repair) easier in the future. Side bracket fans, either alone or attached to a radiator should also be hanging loose around the M1 frame for now.
17. Install SFX power supplies to the adapter frame.
18. Install hard drive(s) to the inside of the front panel or the side cage. Attach their data and power cables.
19. Install ATX power supply to the adapter frame.
20. Connect modular PS cables to the power supply unit, including any PCI-E power cables for the graphics card.
21. Install the CPU air cooler heatsink. Attach fans first if it is not possible to attach them after the heatsink is mounted. For the NH-C14 it is possible to slide the bottom fan in from the top of the case, even if the motherboard has a tall power daughterboard along that edge, like some Asus models do. Attach any remaining cooler fans to the heatsink.
22. Attach any drives (2.5 inch or optical) to the outside of the frame's front panel and attach their data and power cables.
23. Remove the small rectangular metal plate above the expansion card slot covers and then remove the slot covers where the graphics card will be located (usually the top one or two slots).
24. Install the graphics card into the case and attach the PCI-E power cables. Re-attach the small plate above the expansion slots.
25. Attach side fans or radiator and fans to the case's side bracket and attach the bracket to the case. Obviously, flexible hoses for liquid cooling must be carefully arranged to avoid kinking when the side bracket is attached.
26. Attach all of the exterior case panels.

Well, I'm sure it's not perfect, but I hope it helps!

 

[Cat1yst]

Update on my FrozenQ status.
It took them THREE weeks to ship from ordering. When I ordered there were 8 in stock according to the website. My order was "processing" for two. I asked politely via email (they dont have any phone contact), what the staus was. Never heard back. Filed paypal claim, that got them semi-interested, was promised that there were a lot of orders from the recent NCASE batch, and it would ship on monday. Fine. I got a tracking number that monday, however NOTHING shipped. Asked again, whats up. Nothing. Escalated claim. It shipped two days ago under the same tracking #.

TL;DR. Avoid buying a frozenQ res if you can.

 

[Nanook]

14cm fan fits. Pay no attention to the video card that's missing a bunch of shroud pieces.

That looks like a NH-U9S CPU cooler. Is there room on the side panel for a 14cm fan with that CPU cooler, or only a 12cm?

 

[NeoMatriX724]

The M1 is a case that has a very rewarding end result. However, it's greatest strength is also it's greatest weakness...it's extremely customizable. There are a lot of bits and bobs that can be moved around or customized to work for you, but at the same time you need to be diligent on researching and knowing what parts to use where and keeping track of all the pieces. I think I ended up assembling and disassembling and rewiring my build about 6 times before I got it how I wanted it.

So before you start PLAN PLAN PLAN. Then about halfway through, throw out most of your plan and readjust =P.

That being said, definitely one of the most challenging, but rewarding builds I've ever done.

 

[rfarmer]

Hi rfarmer,

Many thanks for your suggestion. My M1 on it’s way and most likely next week I’ll receive it. This time I’m going with GTX 1080 and i6700 and concerning if EK-KIT S240 can handle both of em? Or better stick with air cooling to avoid experiments? I appreciate your opinion.

Best

On mine I am cooling an OCed 6600k and an OCed GTX 970 both on a 240mm radiator, my max temps during stress testing are 52C. Single rad can cool both with ease, I am upgrading to a GTX 1070 within 2 weeks and don't see any issues with watercooling it too.

 

[rfarmer]

Update on my FrozenQ status.
It took them THREE weeks to ship from ordering. When I ordered there were 8 in stock according to the website. My order was "processing" for two. I asked politely via email (they dont have any phone contact), what the staus was. Never heard back. Filed paypal claim, that got them semi-interested, was promised that there were a lot of orders from the recent NCASE batch, and it would ship on monday. Fine. I got a tracking number that monday, however NOTHING shipped. Asked again, whats up. Nothing. Escalated claim. It shipped two days ago under the same tracking #.

TL;DR. Avoid buying a frozenQ res if you can.

Sorry to hear that I thought it was bad that it took them 10 days to ship mine after ordering, I see your experience was much worse. It's too bad that it works so well for the ncase and there really isn't another option that works as well.

 

[blaahund]

Hello!
Is it possible to get hold of an 3d model of the m1?

I'm already the lucky owner of the case and are in the planning stages of what to put in there.
a 3D model could help me figure out what GPU I can squeeze in there
really looking forward to build this.

Thanks!

 

[Qrash]

Hello!
Is it possible to get hold of an 3d model of the m1?

I'm already the lucky owner of the case and are in the planning stages of what to put in there.
a 3D model could help me figure out what GPU I can squeeze in there
really looking forward to build this.

Thanks!

Necere (the M1 designer) posted this list that he is updating as new results are posted: Geforce GTX 1080 Compatibility List.

Another resource from the very first post: A user-contributed Google docs spreadsheet, covering parts and compatibility ( edits are public and affect everyone - be careful!)

 

[RIRed48]

Take your time and plan ahead. I must have removed compnents several times the first time I built in the M1 because they were blocking something or other. My suggested build order (primarlity for an air cooling build) is:

1. Strip the M1, removing all panels, the drive cage, and the side bracket. Keep
2. Open the accessories box and organize the mounting screws, grommets, brackets, and everything else as per the photo on the Ncase website in the FAQ tab.
3. If using the drive cage, prepare it by mounting the drives into it with the appropriate screws and grommets.
4. If using 2.5 inch drives attach the necessary mounting screws and grommets. Use the stacking brackets if you want to attach two drives together. If they will be mounted on the outside of the frame's front panel, both drives must be 7 mm or less in height (thickness?). Taller (thicker?) 2.5 inch drives can be combined and mounted inside the front panel, but be aware of the distance to the adjacent power supply.
5. If using an optical drive: remove the two brackets on the front panel and attach them to the sides of the drive. (Those screws are tiny!). Don't attach this drive to the frame until the end. It's easy and leaving it off can make other tasks easier.
6. Install the CPU into the socket on the motherboard.
7. Attach any mounting brackets for the CPU cooler to the motherboard. I don't know if liquid cooling CPU blocks or AIO block-pump devices should be attached at this point or later when the motherboard is in the M1 frame. Sorry.
8. Install RAM onto the motherboard.
9. If there are daughterboards or cards with wires, such as a Wi-Fi or Bluetooth, that need routing around motherboard components or under the motherboard itself, attach those to the motherboard and route any wires while the motherboard is still outside the M1 frame.
10. Install any other components that attach or mount to the motherboard, such as M.2 or mSATA devices.
11. Install any bottom fans or a single 3.5 inch drive to the bottom of the M1 frame Attach cables to the single 3.5 inch drive before mounting it to the frame.
12. Consider moving the external power socket at the top of the rear panel from the corner position to the center position. This can be helpful with some large CPU air coolers or when there is a radiator and fan on the rear position of the side bracket.
13. Install the I/O Shield into the M1 frame (so easy to forget) and then install the motherboard into the M1. Attach any Wi-Fi/Bluetooth cables to the I/O Shield.
14. Install the power supply adapter frame.
15. Connect modular power supply, data cables, and Front I/O cables to the motherboard. The power supply end of modular PS cables are easy to attach to the PS unit so leave that until later, but route the cable towards the front of the case where the PS unit will be..
16. Practice and finalize fan placement and connect fan cables to the motherboard headers. Let the fans hang outside the M1 frame, except for the rear panel fan, if you plan to use one (mount that one now) and any bottom fans (should already be attached). Use fan splitters and extension cables where appropriate or necessary, such as for bottom fans, dual CPU cooler or radiator fans or to reach the front side bracket location. These can make disassembly (for cleaning or repair) easier in the future. Side bracket fans, either alone or attached to a radiator should also be hanging loose around the M1 frame for now.
17. Install SFX power supplies to the adapter frame.
18. Install hard drive(s) to the inside of the front panel or the side cage. Attach their data and power cables.
19. Install ATX power supply to the adapter frame.
20. Connect modular PS cables to the power supply unit, including any PCI-E power cables for the graphics card.
21. Install the CPU air cooler heatsink. Attach fans first if it is not possible to attach them after the heatsink is mounted. For the NH-C14 it is possible to slide the bottom fan in from the top of the case, even if the motherboard has a tall power daughterboard along that edge, like some Asus models do. Attach any remaining cooler fans to the heatsink.
22. Attach any drives (2.5 inch or optical) to the outside of the frame's front panel and attach their data and power cables.
23. Remove the small rectangular metal plate above the expansion card slot covers and then remove the slot covers where the graphics card will be located (usually the top one or two slots).
24. Install the graphics card into the case and attach the PCI-E power cables. Re-attach the small plate above the expansion slots.
25. Attach side fans or radiator and fans to the case's side bracket and attach the bracket to the case. Obviously, flexible hoses for liquid cooling must be carefully arranged to avoid kinking when the side bracket is attached.
26. Attach all of the exterior case panels.

Well, I'm sure it's not perfect, but I hope it helps!

Wow, thanks so much for all that info and taking the time... will really help me.

I have all components ( All delivery company drivers know me by first name, ha! ) except the M1 (next week I think), the Corsair PSU -SF600, and the other AIO, the Corsair H100iV1.

 

[Qrash]

Wow, thanks so much for all that info and taking the time... will really help me.

I have all components ( All delivery company drivers know me by first name, ha! ) except the M1 (next week I think), the Corsair PSU -SF600, and the other AIO, the Corsair H100iV1.

No problem. I just rebuilt my case last weekend so it's all somewhat fresh in my mind, Everyone's has different build preferences and components that may require a different build order. For example your SF600 has (so I've read) modular cables that are stiffer than my SX600-G, so that must be taken into consideration during the build process. With the M1 you need to plan your cable management ahead of time. I found using a couple of tie-wrap anchors really helped to organize my build, making it cleaner and easier to take apart in the future. I put one in the top rear panel corner above the I/O Shiled to hold a PWM fan splitter and a fan extension cable, the other on the side of my PS to hold some of the excess length of the power and data cables going to my front panel drives. As was stated a few posts above PLAN, PLAN, PLAN !

 

[Mastaba]

Titan x pascal + 6700K in a M1, do you think the SX500 is enough? I read the titan could reach like 300W when oc.

 

[blaahund]

Necere (the M1 designer) posted this list that he is updating as new results are posted: Geforce GTX 1080 Compatibility List.

Another resource from the very first post: A user-contributed Google docs spreadsheet, covering parts and compatibility ( edits are public and affect everyone - be careful!)

thanks! Checked the spreadsheet already but hadn't seen Necere's post.

since this card is on the list: GIGABYTE - Graphics Card - NVIDIA - PCI Express Solution - GeForce® GTX 10 Series - GeForce® GTX 1080 Xtreme Gaming Premium Pack
I'll just go ahead and extrapolate that this card I was looking at would fit too: ::Palit Products - GeForce® GTX 1070 Super JetStream ::
The dimensions is slightly smaller. Palit doesn't seem to be popular over there, but the few reviews I've found of this seems positive

 

[Boil]

With the sexy windowed chassis' we have seen sprinkled throughout the thread, I wonder if Ncase might consider actually offering a windowed side panel option for the M1…!?!

And that said, how much of an overall cooling/performance hit might accompany the choice to go with a side window/bottom radiator (possibly supplemented with the rear exhaust-mounted 92mm radiator) set-up, versus the 'traditional' side panel mounted radiator set-up…?

I just LOVE the image of SO much water cooling packed into the M1, and all on display…!

 

[Qrash]

thanks! Checked the spreadsheet already but hadn't seen Necere's post.

since this card is on the list: GIGABYTE - Graphics Card - NVIDIA - PCI Express Solution - GeForce® GTX 10 Series - GeForce® GTX 1080 Xtreme Gaming Premium Pack
I'll just go ahead and extrapolate that this card I was looking at would fit too: ::Palit Products - GeForce® GTX 1070 Super JetStream ::
The dimensions is slightly smaller. Palit doesn't seem to be popular over there, but the few reviews I've found of this seems positive

Just be careful about the dimensions. I checked the specs on another Palit card and even though its width of 133 mm was less that the M1 limit of 140 mm, the PCI-E sockets were right at the top edge of the PCB. That left only 7 mm for the power cables and connectors which is not enough. A card that wide needs the power sockets to be recessed. Also, the Palit card I looked at was 2.5 slots thick which meant a standard 25 mm thick fan couldn't fit under it at the bottom of the case.

Again, be careful and check all the specs and photos you can find for the card you are considering. I recommend sticking with the cards on Necere's list.

 

[Twasjesto]

With the sexy windowed chassis' we have seen sprinkled throughout the thread, I wonder if Ncase might consider actually offering a windowed side panel option for the M1…!?!

And that said, how much of an overall cooling/performance hit might accompany the choice to go with a side window/bottom radiator (possibly supplemented with the rear exhaust-mounted 92mm radiator) set-up, versus the 'traditional' side panel mounted radiator set-up…?

I just LOVE the image of SO much water cooling packed into the M1, and all on display…!

Don't remember where Necere mentioned about it but he has no plans on window side panel option. I know your temps will be 1-3 degrees higher. This guy I talked to on instagram just went to a local metal shop to get it done, which im planning to do when I get my ncase in a couple of days.

 

[Boil]

…while playing WoW for 1 hour straight with settings maxed out!

But what type of playing…? Just bopping about, farming mats & rep & stuff; or full-on raiding…?

 

[Amr0d]

Necere (the M1 designer) posted this list that he is updating as new results are posted: Geforce GTX 1080 Compatibility List.

Another resource from the very first post: A user-contributed Google docs spreadsheet, covering parts and compatibility ( edits are public and affect everyone - be careful!)

This List should be inserted in the first post.

 

[Sebbie]

But what type of playing…? Just bopping about, farming mats & rep & stuff; or full-on raiding…?

Full Raiding

 

[RIRed48]

No problem. I just rebuilt my case last weekend so it's all somewhat fresh in my mind, Everyone's has different build preferences and components that may require a different build order. For example your SF600 has (so I've read) modular cables that are stiffer than my SX600-G, so that must be taken into consideration during the build process. With the M1 you need to plan your cable management ahead of time. I found using a couple of tie-wrap anchors really helped to organize my build, making it cleaner and easier to take apart in the future. I put one in the top rear panel corner above the I/O Shiled to hold a PWM fan splitter and a fan extension cable, the other on the side of my PS to hold some of the excess length of the power and data cables going to my front panel drives. As was stated a few posts above PLAN, PLAN, PLAN !

If I really struggle w/ the Corsair cables, I might consider getting custom ones... what do you think?

 

[Amr0d]

Just had to order the EVGA GTX 1080 SC instead of the Asus Strix because Amazon should have delivered today but can't because they are out of stock. Will I have good temps with this card too? Is it recommended to get additional fans for the bottom? I saw that most people used Noctua fans for that but which ones?