New Samsung 4k for everyone.

Good call, imyourzero. I might add a Winsplit 40% for MS Outlook.

MaxTo and some of the competing apps are more flexible with snapping windows but then most of them aren't free.

Aside from Winsplit, I'm always using KDE Mover-Sizer. I cringe when I have to use OS X or someone else's Win workstation and it's not there, haha
 
wildpig1234 said:
Something is not right if you are connected to a PC and the tv is saying 3840 x 2160 30p. The TV should say 3840 x 2160 60 hz or 60p...
Click to expand...

D1RTYD1Z619 said:
Radeons can only support 30hz due to not having hdmi 2.0
Click to expand...

I'm running Nvdia actually -- it's a GTX 960M but the port is only HDMI 1.4. So I'm waiting on the release of the Thunderbolt 3 docks which will run 4k @ 60Hz (two displays if I want) via HDMI 2.0

Pakk said:
As others have said it's the 30Hz that's the problem. By nature it will have higher lag than 60Hz, but I think the TV might also have additional lag at this refresh rate.

Also if the TV says the input is 3840x2160 then there is no scaling or scaling is being done on the GPU side. If the TV says anything else (for example 1920x1080) then scaling is done on the TV. Scaling always takes place in some form as soon as you use anything other than native resolution.
Click to expand...

Thanks for this! Yea, I realize 60Hz will make a big difference as I also use the laptop screen which is 60Hz. I never thought I'd tolerate 30Hz for desktop use, but it's been fine.

So it appears my current best case scenario for low lag (1920x1080 @ 60Hz) is your worst case! When the TV shows 1920x1080 (either 30p or 60p), it's about the same lag-wise, so I think the culprit here is more my video card having a hard time scaling.
 
Lucas Hood said:
The additional height is awkward. It feels weird to be looking up all the time.
Click to expand...

It may take time, but you'll adjust to that. I had the same reservation when going from 40" to the 48". Last night I was using my PC and sat back in my chair to take in the grandness of the JS9000. For the first time, I thought "This is the perfect size."

I used to think the 40" was my preferred size and that it was a shame that they didn't make the JS9000 in a 40", but lately the 48" has felt so right...and like you noted, text is easier to read. I no longer feel as if I have to turn my head to take in the entire thing, yet it's more than large enough to fill my view.

I do not think that I'd be happy with the 55" given the distance I sit from the screen...I could probably "make it work" and I'm sure that it would be engrossing but I would definitely have to look up to see the top of the monitor. Very happy where I'm at right now! :)

P.S. I have a Galant too - absolutely love the desk (except for the fact that it scratches easily; should have gotten some kind of protective mat for that corner section).
 
You could make runners for the wheels.
It would be like a self loading gaming room.
You perch at the door and get slotted into the exact position as you roll down the ramp.
That'd be pretty neat tbh :p
 
Just put the table up on blocks. Books are a cheap way of doing it. Have that Ghetto look. :D
 
Anyone help me with a sound problem?
I have components hooked to my receiver and out to the connect box with one hdmi to the STB input.
Everything plays correctly.
But...I have no sound from the samsung when I use the apps to play a movie ect. I'm using an optical cable from the AVR to the CBox.
I can choose the speakers as TV or Optical from with in the TV. Setting to TV gives me sound from the set but setting to optical I have no sound from my surrounds.
Any knowledgeable set owners please help me out.
Thanks.
 
Lucas Hood said:
The additional height is awkward. It feels weird to be looking up all the time. I'm going to try to find an adapter plate that will let me mount the TV on an arm so I can remove the stand and rest the TV on the desk. Other than that, I'm thrilled with this thing. :)
Click to expand...

I thought the same thing at first but once you get used to it, you will likely find sitting with better posture instead of hunching over. The top of my screen is about 6 to 8 inches above the top of my head and I have learned to love it.
 
harsaphes said:
Anyone help me with a sound problem?
I have components hooked to my receiver and out to the connect box with one hdmi to the STB input.
Everything plays correctly.
But...I have no sound from the samsung when I use the apps to play a movie ect. I'm using an optical cable from the AVR to the CBox.
I can choose the speakers as TV or Optical from with in the TV. Setting to TV gives me sound from the set but setting to optical I have no sound from my surrounds.
Any knowledgeable set owners please help me out.
Thanks.
Click to expand...

Have you tried using HDMI instead of optical and utilizing HDMI-CEC to have it automatically switch inputs?
 
Also this; I don't know how helpful it might be...

https://en.community.sonos.com/home...al-out-if-input-hdmi-need-suggestions-6580123

Relevant quote:
Hi everyone,

An update - I got everything to work as I wanted.

I got this switch from Monoprice - http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=101&cp_id=10110&cs_id=1011002&p_id=7974 - and set it up like this:

- HDMI from cable box into Monoprice switch
- HDMI from TV into Monoprice switch (the ARC HDMI slot - this is important)
- Optical from Monoprice switch to PlayBar

At first, I wasn't getting 5.1 sound to the PlayBar with this setup. I read the manual that came with the switch, and changed the jumper setting to pull/push 5.1 no matter what (Mode 2), and that solved the issue. The jumpers are on the back (there are three switches).

Now, when I watch TV, I have 5.1 sound. And, when I watch Netflix through the Netflix app on the TV, I have 5.1 sound then as well.

I did have some issues with the HDMI-CEC Support between the TV and the switch and trying to get that to work. When I turned off the TV, the CEC commands would turn off the switch fine, but it wouldn't turn the switch back on when the TV was turned on. Ultimately, I ended up turning CEC off on the TV. Now the switch is on 24/7, but I have it tucked behind the TV, so it's not a big deal for me.

Hope this helps someone.

-Matt
Click to expand...
 
Anyone knows what's the changelog for the 40" 6550 ?
There is a new firmware update, 1440.8
 
shadowj said:
Anyone knows what's the changelog for the 40" 6550 ?
There is a new firmware update, 1440.8
Click to expand...

Woah! another firmware update? Not that I would expect it would do anything for my monitor usage. Input lag would still be the same ;(

Actually, there is one thing maybe they can do. When in PC mode, the TV should have true standby like a monitor, meaning when I touch keyboard or mouse, the TV should automatically comes out of standby, not like right now in which I have to press the power button, which appears to cycle the input status causing my pc to make that noise whenever you plug in a device.
 
Gents

If I am using Excel with a red background with normal or bolded black text...unless I highlight the cell (which darkens the "shade" of red used to fill the cell) it's darned near unreadable (See example below)

http://imgur.com/XSjkLin

Right cell is highlighted, while the left is not.

This problem is much less noticeable on my Seiki at home so I'm trying to convince my boss to either upgrade to a newer Samsung or allow me to bring in my Seiki.

I've seen several different models listed in the thread so I was wondering if someone could please create a screenshot of their excel screen with the standard Red background and black text and post it so I can see the difference.
 
Cyph said:
I



Plex app is not out for Tizen yet. A workaround is to install a DLNA server (plex server works as DLNA, windows also have a it built in), then use the Smarthub DLNA viewer to play your videos. Smarthub is regular TV mode which will look better than viewing from PC mode.
Click to expand...

I got an asus Router with the DLNA setup and my Vizio tv can see it fine but I cant find where is the DLNA option in my JU7100.
Anyone please? :/
 
Will I be able to run, with adequate business performance, a 4K@60hz screen (specifically the 48UN6700) with my current system? Presently it handles 4 x 24" FD screens just fine. I guess I'd use the DP->HDMI adapter I'm presently using to drive one of the monitors.

I7-4770K 3.5ghz
32GB DDR3
Win 7 64bit
EVGA GeForce GTX 780 Superclocked 3GB 384-Bit GDDR5

I'll likely still game in 1080p until the mid-line has the VRAM necessary to drive 4K gaming.

Thanks!
 
Solarius38 said:
Will I be able to run, with adequate business performance, a 4K@60hz screen (specifically the 48UN6700) with my current system? Presently it handles 4 x 24" FD screens just fine. I guess I'd use the DP->HDMI adapter I'm presently using to drive one of the monitors.

I7-4770K 3.5ghz
32GB DDR3
Win 7 64bit
EVGA GeForce GTX 780 Superclocked 3GB 384-Bit GDDR5

I'll likely still game in 1080p until the mid-line has the VRAM necessary to drive 4K gaming.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Your current configuration does not have an HDMI 2.0 output anywhere. So no you wont be able to get 4K 60hz 4:4:4 with the Samsung. You need to get a GTX9xx card as that is the only one right now with HDMI 2.0
 
Solarius38 said:
What about this?

http://www.anandtech.com/show/9867/club3d-releases-dp12-to-hdmi-20-adapter
Click to expand...

It's a good option if you only have DP and not plan to get another video card. These are active converters so I am wondering how much lag they introduce. Probably neglible but I wish there is a proper review for it.

Hopefully this will come down in price real soon as more people make them.

It's $29 on amazon but currently out of stock.

AMD supposedly has released a driver update to work with this for their cards. Wondering if NVidia would also need to have a driver update to work with this adapter or not since they already have cards with hdmi 2.0
 
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Zarathustra[H];1042008735 said:
It does.

Keep in mind - however - that these glasses are intended for use with movies at 24hz, and would likely not be satisfactory in games.

The reason being that while the panel is a 120hz panel, due to HDMI2.0 bandwidth restrictions, the highest possible usable refresh rate is 60hz. (tehcnically it should be possible to run 1080p at 120hz, but they have not enabled this for some reason).

Due to this, the highest possible 3D refresh rate you will get is 30hz, which I would imagine would be unsatisfactory to most.
Click to expand...

This display uses a 120hz panel; while you can't use 120hz inputs, when a 3D signal is detected the panel does send 120 frames per seconds (60 per eye), this happens whenever the display detects an input using Frame Packing or Frame Sequencing (limited to 720p@60fps and 1080p@30fps as per the HDMI 1.4 specifications (which didn't change in HDMI 2.0 for 3D content, sadly, mostly because manufacturers happen to be producers and producers are pushing for 4K content rather than 3D content which for movies at home isn't as popular as they want and which they can't store on a bluray at 2160p anyway, this is also the same reason why you only get HDMI inputs on TVs, because most manufacturers are members of the HDMI forum) or when selecting 3D modes in the display menu (2D to 3D conversion, 3D Side by side, 3D top/bottom), Samsung televisions as far as I am aware of, are the only display that accepts 2160p inputs for 3D SBS or TB (at 60fps per eye, thus 120fps on the actual panel, only when using UHD colors over HMDI 2.0 though), effectively setting a resolution that's higher 1080p (aka full HD), (1920x2160 on SBS and 3840x1080 on TB to be precise), because of the HDMI specifications limitations, this is the only way to play high resolution 3D content at 60hz, outside of using the outdated 3D Vision kits.

This is the very reason I purchased this display, I initially purchased a Sony KD55S8005C which had a very good image quality, allowed inputs up to 120hz for 2D and had Android TV (which I consider supperior to Tizen), naively thinking that it would allow 3D SBS on 2160p inputs, it turns out not only the firmware was locked down to allow SBS or TB at 1080p but it had a "feature" called "3D Super Resolution" which you couldn't turn off, which made 3D look like utter crap (think 480p resolution 3D on any given content)

I returned it for the Samsung UE55JU7500 which does allow 3D SBS using 2160p or any supported 2D resolution inputs, in fact, you can get the very equivalent of 1920x1080 frame packed/frame sequenced using side by side or top/bottom on a custom resolution (3840x1080 for side by side)

Finally, by doing intensive tests on this set, I can tell you without a doubt that content run, in 3D at 60 frames per seconds (no, not 30 frames per eyes, effectively 60 frames per eyes, when in 3D mode, the display gets both images at 60 frames per seconds and uses its 120hz panel to output both images at 60 frames per seconds for each eyes (it does not need the input to be at 120fps as it receives both images for each eyes at the same time, except if using frame sequencing (effectively one image, then the other) which by the way, this screen supports (it's a 120hz panel remember ? 3D is actually one of the reason they use one, the other being to mitigate the motion blur by inserting frames, which you would never do in 3D anyway, which is also why the tv's firmware does not allow you to send 2D inputs at 120hz (it's not that it cannot technically be done, it's a software limitation within the firmware, in fact any officially unsupported frequencies (like 61hz) will not be displayed by the device.


In fact, if you wanted to do 3D at 120fps, you would need a 240hz panel (capable of sending 120 frames per eye per second), you wouldn't however need to send 240 frames per second to the device, you would need the bandwidth to send 120 frames per second that contain both the left and right eye images, effectively twice the displayed resolution of your 3D output.

All in all, 3D in 1920x2160@60fps is incredibly immersive, you however need to use tridef (as 3DTV play is severely outdated and does not allow SBS or TB modes, it only supports 3D in 1080p@24fps)

Tridef only supports a handful of games (you need to download specific profiles for your games), neither 3DTV play, nor tridef are free, if you buy this display and get the proper graphic card however (consider at least a GTX980), Tridef3D is definitely worth it, you have a 14 days free try period if you feel like it.

People who overlook playing in 3D of claim that it's a thing of the past are fools, while playing in 3D at proper resolutions, the immersion is incredible, you feel like you are there. You have to experience it to believe it.
 
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The 4th option is top/bottom on my display. I always thought edid hacks for 3d vision only worked on passive sets.

EDIT: There is no such thing as a horizontal or vertical line mode on the J series display (I just checked)
I also checked the H series display user manual, and indeed this mode exists there, it is however limited to a 1920x1080 resolution. Considering this mode effectively halves the vertical resolution, this would put the actual display resolution to 1920x540, that would make it slightly more pixels than 720p (1,036,800 pixels for 1920x540 vs 921,600 pixels for 1280x720, so a 115,200 pixels increase), I am not sure the difference can even be perceived, I am also not sure there is an interest given the fact that 3dtv play already does 720p@60fps.

I am guessing the only way to use 3D vision efficiently would be either to get a 3D vision compatible monitor + kit or to get an UHD passive 3D tv set with an EDID override, that's unless Samsung or another manufacturer somehow starts accepting vertical line mode 3D inputs at higher resolutions.

I just hope nvidia someday updates their 3DTV play software to enable SBS or TB, or Frame Sequenced/Frame Packed outputs at high resolution over HDMI 2.0 (one can always dream right ? Given that they haven't updated it in over 3 years)
 
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Sup fellas. I got a quick question about watching my Blu-ray movies. I have Powerdvd Ultra installed and have been watching a few of my 3d collection. I actually am enjoying watching on my PC with my Samsung 48"JS9000 with my Razer Tiamats, versus watching on my Living room setup.

My question is this-Does the TV upscale native Blu-ray content to 4k? I thought it did. I am watching the Avengers 3d movie and I have it set to No scaling in the Nvidia control panel. My movie is in full screen with no black bars, but when I click on the source menu and info it shows UHD HDMI color at 1980x1080/24P. I thought the TV would up scaled the movie to the TV's native resolution? Picture looks really nice, but I wanted to make sure I had everything set up correctly? Thanks!
 
It is upscaling when a 1080p source is full screen.
Unless you bought the magic version that makes its pixels join together in groups of 4 and remodels the silicon to suit.
 
Nenu said:
It is upscaling when a 1080p source is full screen.
Unless you bought the magic version that makes its pixels join together in groups of 4 and remodels the silicon to suit.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply. You could have just replied with the first sentence though and left the second part out. IMO, it makes the impression of being a sarcastic ass, rather then just being helpful to the community

I know the TV up scaled...I just thought it would display info of actually it was displaying out/upscaling. Meaning 1080p upscaled it would show 4k UHD in the info......
 
Island said:
I just thought it would display info of actually it was displaying out/upscaling. Meaning 1080p upscaled it would show 4k UHD in the info......
Click to expand...
It does exactly that but the other way around. If the info says 1920x1080 (or any other lower-than-native resolution) it's upscaling it, if the info says 3840x2160 then it's not.
 
Pakk said:
It does exactly that but the other way around. If the info says 1920x1080 (or any other lower-than-native resolution) it's upscaling it, if the info says 3840x2160 then it's not.
Click to expand...


Thanks for the clarification. upscaling looks really nice and the 3d Looks great. I watched the original Avengers yesterday on my PC and watched Age of Ultron last night on my living room setup, which is on a Sharp 80" LE844u that I bought 3 years ago. I actually enjoyed watching on my Samsung more and the picture and 3d looked better and had more "POP" That sucks because I paid almost 5 grand for the Sharp 3 years ago.... I may have to upgrade to 75" Samsung high end model next year....Or God willing...a 70-80" OLED.....
 
UN48JS9000 is down to $1,799.99 right now and still includes the Passport Cinema 4k drive.

I want it to go back down to the $1600 it was a while ago. :/

But at the same time, I kinda wanna wait and see if they offer a 40-ish inch version of the FALD KS9800 when they finally release some info about that bad boy. Damn, there's never a right time to jump in.
 
Finally got me a 48JU6700 thanks to the positive reviews from Revenant, and must say I am extremely happy with it. Play BF4 and Fallout 4 in 4k and it runs great. I am surprised actually how well it does run due to this model being the base for curved 4k.
 
I would like to add that people that want to go back to an earlier firmware for any reason whatsoever (reducing input lag? rooting when/if it becomes available?) can do so, there are leaked firmwares for the Samsung J series TV that downgrades those to version 0000, which then lets you "update" to any firmware you want

Check the link below for more informations.
It's been tested with several sets and it works (although it is a bit tedious) no need to trade your tv back if you forgot to disable the auto-update.

http://forum.samygo.tv/viewtopic.php?f=87&t=10138

Here are the firmwares I could find for my model UE55JU7500, they are all for model T-HKMDEUC and therefore should work.
I spent an awful amont of time locating these all on google and archive.org

I searched the various Samsung support pages on archive.org with a search like this: https://web.archive.org/web/*/http://www.samsung.com/it/support/model/ue*

http://org.downloadcenter.samsung.c...201504/20150414211923006/T-HKMDEUC_1202.9.exe
http://org.downloadcenter.samsung.c...201505/20150511110148152/T-HKMDEUC_1205.6.exe
http://org.downloadcenter.samsung.c...201505/20150529112118862/T-HKMDEUC_1207.3.exe
http://org.downloadcenter.samsung.c...201507/20150702104327877/T-HKMDEUC_1211.9.exe
http://org.downloadcenter.samsung.c...201508/20150825134215340/T-HKMDEUC_1214.0.exe
http://downloadcenter.samsung.com/content/FM/201511/20151109165336625/T-HKMDEUC_1412.1.exe
http://org.downloadcenter.samsung.c...201601/20160115134929075/T-HKMDEUC_1440.8.exe
http://org.downloadcenter.samsung.c...201601/20160125140701160/T-HKMDEUC_1441.0.exe

I am really glad samsung keeps old files on server (although finding links is a pain)

I couldn't find anything close to the factory firmwares (100X.X) did anyone find those? The earliest I could find is 1202.9 which dates from 2015.04.14 while 1205.6 (the one just before 1207.3) is from 2015.05.11

Here are the models list to let you find the file for your tv easily.
Models:
North America:
T-HKMAKUC (TV model name : UNXXJUXXXX)
T-HKMFAKUC (TV model name : UNXXJXXXX)
T-HKPAKUC ( TV model name : UNXXJSXXXX)

Europe:
T-HKPDEUC ( TV model name : UEXXJSXXXX)
T-HKMDEUC ( TV model name : UEXXJUXXXX)
T-HKMFDEUC( TV model name : UEXXJXXXX)

Asia:
T-HKMUABC ( TV model name : UAXXJUXXXX)
T-HKPUABC ( TV model name : UAXXJSXXXX)
T-HKMFUABC ( TV model name : UAXXJXXXX)
 
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dpoverlord said:
So I was testing this monitor out at home and have to admit it REALLY sucks when I try sending videos from my Note 3 to it. Every 5 minutes it will say loading and this is when I am either connected via Wi-Fi Direct or via my 5ghz band.

Has anyone else witnessed this? I just cat-5'd the JS9000 55" One Box and still get the same error. They just sent me a replacement 55" and was wondering if anyone could walk me through how to see which one of these 2 monitors is better.. ( yes you read that rigght I have 2 JS9000 at home now) I have not connected my PC but I am running:
ASUS RIVE V Rampage Extreme
5930K
32GB
SLI Titan X

Sound System I purchase the Bose 1 SR and the Samsung H7501 Soundbar. I am going to return teh samsung sound bar and use the Bose I think. It is connected to a Creative X7 LE amp.

Thoughts?
Click to expand...

I don't have that issue on my UE55JU7500

About the JS9000 it's a very good choice as it has a 10-bit panel, while the JU7500 (and lower ends) only get a 8-bit panel, therefore those can't do HDR

I still chose the JU7500 as the panel is direct lit (the JS9000 is edge lit), and because of the hdmi 2.0 bandwidth limitations, 10-bit mode isn't compatible with 4:4:4 chroma at 2160p, it only works on 4:2:0 chroma or on 1080p (or lower) which seems like a huge compromise to make, finally I have little use for HDR as I will be mostly using the display as a computer monitor.

That and of course, it's cheaper.
Finally the JS9000 has a slightly lower input lag at 2160p while the JU7500 has a slightly lower input lag at 1080p (we are talking less than 5ms differences here), I am guessing it's a matter of preference for that one, and which resolution you use the most FPS games.
 
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wikidlad said:
Finally got me a 48JU6700 thanks to the positive reviews from Revenant, and must say I am extremely happy with it. Play BF4 and Fallout 4 in 4k and it runs great. I am surprised actually how well it does run due to this model being the base for curved 4k.
Click to expand...

That's what I'm using and it's fantastic.
 
mathieulh said:
I don't have that issue on my UE55JU7500

About the JS9000 it's a very good choice as it has a 10-bit panel, while the JU7500 (and lower ends) only get a 8-bit panel, therefore those can't do HDR

I still chose the JU7500 as the panel is direct lit (the JS9000 and JS9500 are edge lit), and because of the hdmi 2.0 bandwidth limitations, 10-bit mode isn't compatible with 4:4:4 chroma at 2160p, it only works on 4:2:0 chroma or on 1080p (or lower) which seems like a huge compromise to make, finally I have little use for HDR as I will be mostly using the display as a computer monitor.

That and of course, it's cheaper.
Finally the JS9000 has a slightly lower input lag at 2160p while the JU7500 has a slightly lower input lag at 1080p (we are talking less than 5ms differences here), I am guessing it's a matter of preference for that one, and which resolution you use the most FPS games.
Click to expand...

JS9500 is FALD, not edge lit.
 
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