New Samsung 4k for everyone.

Has anyone found a solution to all of the PC windows being in the upper left hand portion of the screen each time the TV is turned on?
 
Has anyone found a solution to all of the PC windows being in the upper left hand portion of the screen each time the TV is turned on?

Describe this issue, I don't see it. My browser and explorer windows remember its previous location on reboots.
 
Describe this issue, I don't see it. My browser and explorer windows remember its previous location on reboots.

A few times when I've turned mine on, Chrome has resized itself to like an 1024x768 window at the top left corner of the screen. And other programs that I had running might be relocated to different areas on the desktop.

It didn't do it today or yesterday though, so it seems to be intermittent.

As far as the firmware, I updated to 1210 and so far so good. Thanks for the early positive reports. :)
 
I've got the top left box thing problem too. Is it how it wakes from sleep?
Power on order? Power on TV, then wake it up?
It's annoying as hell.
 
A few times when I've turned mine on, Chrome has resized itself to like an 1024x768 window at the top left corner of the screen. And other programs that I had running might be relocated to different areas on the desktop.

It didn't do it today or yesterday though, so it seems to be intermittent.

As far as the firmware, I updated to 1210 and so far so good. Thanks for the early positive reports. :)

I've got the top left box thing problem too. Is it how it wakes from sleep?
Power on order? Power on TV, then wake it up?
It's annoying as hell.

I don't have this issue at all. Perhaps it's related to the RGB HDMI setting? I'll keep an eye out for this but it doesn't seem to affect me.

Edit: Just tested sleep and it recovers fine.
 
So did some further testing, I recommend setting the gpu to YBR 4:4:4 in the Nvidia control panel, in that mode playing in game mode 4k it feels just as responsive as 1080p... this was not the case on 1209 firmware.

I will await Nitemare's photos, I am certain he will see game mode in 4k is now in line with 1080p for input lag which is awsome!

Pc mode did indeed go down but in 4k still feels at least a couple of frames behind game mode, at this point I am thinking its because its running 4:4:4.

Lets see what Nitemare comes up with, curious to see if its inline with what I am saying and feeling here.
 
I'm looking at buying a Samsung UN40JU6700 for a computer monitor. In the same room, I plan to get a UN65JU7100 for my main tv/couch gaming. I'm purchasing a single Titan X and I'm trying to figure out how I'll connect both tvs like I have with my current 1080p setup. Apparently the Titan only has 1 HDMI 2.0 output. A second Titan X isn't in my budget right now, and I'm not interested in SLI 980s. Does anyone know of a way to get 4k @ 60hz on both TVs? Will I just have to wait for an Active Displayport to HDMI 2.0 adapter to be released? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Just set mine up. 4k @ 60hz is working with my GTX 780 however it's running in 4:2:0. Can't wait to get my Titan X so I can actualy use game mode 4:2:2 and pc mode 4:4:4.

Lag is definitely noticable compared to my LG. In game mode it's much better but still a bit behind my LG.

Hopefully the Titan X will do a better job, so far none of my games run at 4k @ 60fps at all lol.

F8VLoAV.jpg
 
The input lag in 4k is the only thing thats stopping me from buying one. My overlord monitor is not the best but its ok as far as lag goes.
 
A few times when I've turned mine on, Chrome has resized itself to like an 1024x768 window at the top left corner of the screen. And other programs that I had running might be relocated to different areas on the desktop.

It didn't do it today or yesterday though, so it seems to be intermittent.

As far as the firmware, I updated to 1210 and so far so good. Thanks for the early positive reports. :)

Mine has been doing the same thing, is randomly resizes all windows to the same size and stacks them all on top of each other.
 
The input lag in 4k is the only thing thats stopping me from buying one. My overlord monitor is not the best but its ok as far as lag goes.

I went from a QNIX 27" @ 120hz, not sure the input lag numbers but it's been good enough for me. I'm also not a hardcore gamer.
 
Mine has been doing the same thing, is randomly resizes all windows to the same size and stacks them all on top of each other.

Yes, I haven't figured out what I'm doing to cause it. As in, I haven't been able to recreate it yet. Seems random. Didn't do it at all tonight or last night, despite multiple reboots and power cycles.
 
So did some further testing, I recommend setting the gpu to YBR 4:4:4 in the Nvidia control panel, in that mode playing in game mode 4k it feels just as responsive as 1080p... this was not the case on 1209 firmware.

I do not have the Digital color format option in Adjust desktop color settings of my nvidia control panel... :confused:
Maybe it's because I have a 780ti?
 
50 on PC should be native resolution with nothing applied... at least that's what someone said. 0 in game mode = 50 in PC mode.

Thats correct, lowering it under 50 in pc mode reduces sharpness. At 50 there no additonal sharpening being added.

Okay. I've been pixel-peeping while rocking the sharpness from 0 to 50 and I think I need to see sources for this info about sharpness:

PC Mode 50 may be the default but I don't believe it is a lack of sharpening.

Looking at the border of Hardforum's white text, with sharpness at 50 there are tiny little dark edges, sharpening halos/artifacts. Dialing sharpness down to 0 makes these lines shrink away and disappear. Then it is just the white of the font and the gray of the bg with no darkened edge.

Would 50 in PC mode really equal 0 in game mode? That doesn't seem sensical; it would make sense that it defaults to one or the other, though.
And to say that at 50 no sharpening is being added...so what does that make 0 then? Intentional blurring? I could be wrong but I see no practical application for that idea.
 
Would 50 in PC mode really equal 0 in game mode? That doesn't seem sensical; it would make sense that it defaults to one or the other, though.
And to say that at 50 no sharpening is being added...so what does that make 0 then? Intentional blurring? I could be wrong but I see no practical application for that idea.

From the lagom.nl sharpness page: "LCD monitors often have a 'sharpness' control, which can emphasize or deemphasize boundaries between light and dark areas. Ideally, it does neither, unless you like a bit of fuzziness or like small letters to have more contrast."
 
^^ Then this has been fixed in recent firmware. If so that's great news!

It was documented early-on in the thread and verified multiple times.

I may have spoken too soon on that. While I have looked at this before and don't recall it doing so, mine is definitely resetting the HDMI black levels to "auto" every time I turn the TV off. I don't know if this started with version 1209 or what.
 
I may have spoken too soon on that. While I have looked at this before and don't recall it doing so, mine is definitely resetting the HDMI black levels to "auto" every time I turn the TV off. I don't know if this started with version 1209 or what.

Last night I just went with the YBR nV setting as suggested and now that option is greyed out.
Fixed!!! :D
 
Hi everyone,

I just bought a Samsung 40JU7500, I am sitting around 2-3 feet from the monitor and I am really bothered by PWM.

I was previously using a Dell UltraSharp U3014 and Rog Swift PG278Q.

The Samsung screen blow those two monitors out of the water, but I am not sure if I will get use to the PWM on the Samsung. Does it get less bothering with time ?

It currently giving me light headache and eye strain.

What optimum setting would you recommend to reduce the PWM to the maximum (I don’t mind sacrificing the picture quality).

What Backlight, Brightness, Constrast, Sharpness, other setting are you using to reduce PWM ?

From what I could read in this thread, here are the optimum settings :

Set the back-light to 20 for minimum PWM
brightness to 60
sharpness to 50
contrast to 50 or lower (it can go down all the way to 1 if the screen is too bright). That pretty much eliminates the PWM.

Does everyone agree ?

Does anyone else bothered with PWM got used to it with time ? can it damage eye sight ? (maybe a stupid question just wondering)

I did a lot of research based on this thread, here a few useful links :

http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/content/pulse_width_modulation.htm#side_effects
https://www.flickr.com/photos/97364704@N08/16320517710/
http://www.blurbusters.com/faq/lcd-motion-artifacts/#pwm

Thank you very much for your support !

Regards,

Benoit
 
I'm looking at buying a Samsung UN40JU6700 for a computer monitor. In the same room, I plan to get a UN65JU7100 for my main tv/couch gaming. I'm purchasing a single Titan X and I'm trying to figure out how I'll connect both tvs like I have with my current 1080p setup. Apparently the Titan only has 1 HDMI 2.0 output. A second Titan X isn't in my budget right now, and I'm not interested in SLI 980s. Does anyone know of a way to get 4k @ 60hz on both TVs? Will I just have to wait for an Active Displayport to HDMI 2.0 adapter to be released? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

You can always get a HDMI switch. Since it's HDMI to HDMI, there should be one that works for you. You may want an active switch since the run looks like it may be a little long based on your configuration.

The input lag in 4k is the only thing thats stopping me from buying one. My overlord monitor is not the best but its ok as far as lag goes.

I believe your monitor was measured at 23ms. Game mode (at least in 1080P) is 20.7ms. We need to see Nightmare's measurement if 4K has been fixed. Once fixed, 4K should be about the same. PC Mode is around 33ms (since 1210?). I personally cannot tell the difference between PC and Game Mode. However, if you require good input response, then PC Mode is pretty good and there's no discernible differences in games.

Could you pls. answer to this?

Thanks

I've seen my MOBO splash screen before (Asus), but not the POST as that's hidden behind the MOBO splash screen. Try changing to full memory check POST (then hide the splash screen if you have one) if you need to see the BIOS. I believe the Samsung loads its OS when it boots for about a few seconds which is the reason why you don't see the POST.

Hi everyone,

I just bought a Samsung 40JU7500, I am sitting around 2-3 feet from the monitor and I am really bothered by PWM.

I was previously using a Dell UltraSharp U3014 and Rog Swift PG278Q.

The Samsung screen blow those two monitors out of the water, but I am not sure if I will get use to the PWM on the Samsung. Does it get less bothering with time ?

It currently giving me light headache and eye strain.

What optimum setting would you recommend to reduce the PWM to the maximum (I don’t mind sacrificing the picture quality).

What Backlight, Brightness, Constrast, Sharpness, other setting are you using to reduce PWM ?

From what I could read in this thread, here are the optimum settings :

Set the back-light to 20 for minimum PWM
brightness to 60
sharpness to 50
contrast to 50 or lower (it can go down all the way to 1 if the screen is too bright). That pretty much eliminates the PWM.

Does everyone agree ?

Does anyone else bothered with PWM got used to it with time ? can it damage eye sight ? (maybe a stupid question just wondering)

I did a lot of research based on this thread, here a few useful links :

http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/content/pulse_width_modulation.htm#side_effects
https://www.flickr.com/photos/97364704@N08/16320517710/
http://www.blurbusters.com/faq/lcd-motion-artifacts/#pwm

Thank you very much for your support !

Regards,

Benoit

That's a bummer. I previously had eye strain, but now I no longer have it. It could be due to allergies (makes sense since my eyes were itchy) or that I'm used to it now. I have no issue with backlight at 15 or higher now. Also, I believe Brahmzy mentioned that PWM doesn't bother him as much anymore, which is interesting. It could be possible that your body can adjust to it. If you have a good return policy, why not take three weeks and decide?
 
Does anyone else bothered with PWM got used to it with time ? can it damage eye sight ? (maybe a stupid question just wondering)

Welcome to the club. PWM sensitivity sucks. I had some MAJOR issues with the PWM on this monitor. I was ready to pack it up and almost did. Actually packed up a 6700 and now have a 7500, but the PWM is the same on both.)
I've been using it for about 3-4 weeks? And for whatever reason, I have less and less sensitivity. I was getting headaches and nausea within 30m of using it, no matter what settings I was using. I'm not sure what has changed, or if the sensitivity will return, but it's better now. I've been using it with much less strain. I can still see/feel the PWM, but it's bothering me significantly less.

My best advice would be to continue using it, adjusting settings constantly, turning ambient light on and off for a couple of weeks and see if things get better. Please report back what you're experiencing as time goes on.
 
I've seen my MOBO splash screen before (Asus), but not the POST as that's hidden behind the MOBO splash screen. Try changing to full memory check POST (then hide the splash screen if you have one) if you need to see the BIOS. I believe the Samsung loads its OS when it boots for about a few seconds which is the reason why you don't see the POST.


Sorry Cyph, I ment the MOBO splash screen. I cannot see anything before Windows logo appears!

Does anyone have the same problem?
 
Sorry Cyph, I ment the MOBO splash screen. I cannot see anything before Windows logo appears!

Does anyone have the same problem?

I'm able to see everything, vga card screen>bios screen>windows screen>desktop

What graphics card are you using?
 
Sorry Cyph, I ment the MOBO splash screen. I cannot see anything before Windows logo appears!

Does anyone have the same problem?

There is a delay during boot to load the Samsung OS. If you want to see the POST/Splash, you need to delay it further by turning on FULL POST in your BIOS. A 30 second POST is long enough for you to see it.
 
I'm able to see everything, vga card screen>bios screen>windows screen>desktop

What graphics card are you using?

On my machine I only see the POST screens if I boot my system cold with the TV already on. If I just restart it the system I won't.
 
On my machine I only see the POST screens if I boot my system cold with the TV already on. If I just restart it the system I won't.

Weird, I just tried restarting and still see everything. I'm running a GTX 780 at the moment.

Also, I'm using an a/v receiver.

PC HDMI>A/V receiver>TV
 
As long as fast boot is off, you should be able to see the bios screen. If fast boot is on, you'll only see the manufacturer boot screen.
 
Weird, I just tried restarting and still see everything. I'm running a GTX 780 at the moment.

Also, I'm using an a/v receiver.

PC HDMI>A/V receiver>TV

FYI: AV Receiver adds input lag.

Edit: You should go HDMI -> TV -> ARC back to AV
 
Hey all. Been lurking in the forums since the announcement of the 40 Phillips. Went with the JU6700 40". After an hour of use, a dead, bright white pixel appeared right in the middle at eye level. I was a lil bummed, thinking that Samsung or the place I bought it wouldn't do a return, but I tried anyway. It was very painless and in less than 4 days they had sent out their own people to replace the panel. One of the techs did say something interesting, that the backlight should be at 12-14 to extend the life of the monitor. I have been running 20 based on feedback related to PWM, and don't know that I could take that recommendation. I attached some pics of the opened TV so you can get a looksee. What surprised me most was the size of the speakers and that they each have a woofer.

sammy3.JPG


sammy2.JPG


sammy1.JPG
 
FYI: AV Receiver adds input lag.

Edit: You should go HDMI -> TV -> ARC back to AV

Is there a proof to that? I have it set up the same way and I don't see any difference in lag.

Besides, ARC usually transmits/passes through only 2CH audio, so this is a no go.
 
FYI: AV Receiver adds input lag.

Edit: You should go HDMI -> TV -> ARC back to AV

Do the Samsung TVs have an HDMI out that you can send back to the receiver just for audio? I'm totally insane about audio and demand bitstreaming for TV/Films (Bitstreaming is audio passthrough to receiver and the receiver does the decoding).

Right now I use Dual link DVI 1440p QNIX 27 inch montor and hdmi passthrough out of my videocard to my receiver... so one cable for video and another for audio. It's great because you can still have a quality av receiver to bitstream DTS HA MA and True HD without having any additional input lag for games.

I've been reading about ARC and it's pretty awful, it doesn't support high definition audio streaming (DTS HA MA or TrueHD). Making major sacrifices in audio quality just to save using a second HDMI cable is bloody retarded. I hate this non-audiophile world we live in these days. Spend $100000 on a TV but a sound bar is good enough... retards.
 
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Is there a proof to that? I have it set up the same way and I don't see any difference in lag.

Besides, ARC usually transmits/passes through only 2CH audio, so this is a no go.

Yup, a search on Google will come up with tons of hits. Any time a signal goes through a processor, input lag is added. If there's a "sub" or "direct" input on a receiver, then it will minimize input lag but not totally eliminate it.

If you don't notice it, then there's nothing to worry about. Some are more sensitive to input lag than others.

Do the Samsung TVs have an HDMI out that you can send back to the receiver just for audio? I'm totally insane about audio and demand bitstreaming for TV/Films (Bitstreaming is audio passthrough to receiver and the receiver does the decoding).

Right now I use Dual link DVI 1440p QNIX 27 inch montor and hdmi passthrough out of my videocard to my receiver... so one cable for video and another for audio. It's great because you can still have a quality av receiver to bitstream DTS HA MA and True HD without having any additional input lag for games.

Yes, I don't know which one, but one is designated ARC (Audio Return Channel).
 
Do the Samsung TVs have an HDMI out that you can send back to the receiver just for audio? I'm totally insane about audio and demand bitstreaming for TV/Films (Bitstreaming is audio passthrough to receiver and the receiver does the decoding).

Right now I use Dual link DVI 1440p QNIX 27 inch montor and hdmi passthrough out of my videocard to my receiver... so one cable for video and another for audio. It's great because you can still have a quality av receiver to bitstream DTS HA MA and True HD without having any additional input lag for games.

Would you not just connect an optical cable from the TV to your receiver? I haven't done this myself, but was getting ready to.

Please let us know.
 
Would you not just connect an optical cable from the TV to your receiver? I haven't done this myself, but was getting ready to.

Please let us know.

If you get surround, it will be compressed.
Only stereo can be full quality down SPDIF.

I use HDMI to a monitor/projector, another HDMI to my AV system and set my display to cloned.
Then set my default sound device as the HDMI AV system.
Simples.
 
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