New Samsung 4k for everyone.

Keep in mind that shot is at an angle. You would never use the monitor that way, so what you're describing as "weird" isn't exactly representative of how it looks when you're directly in front of it.

I've had the Westinghouse 37" flat and this 40" curved. I don't mind flat, but I prefer the curve. More immersing and makes stuff on the edges a bit easier to see.

If you don't think you'd like the curve, that's cool. That's why the 6500 and 7100 series exist.

I don't know if I would like the curve, no local store has one so I can test.

Curved makes perfect sense on a ultra wide monitor, but for a more "square" monitor like a 40" inch 4K, I am not so sure, would really have to try one before being able to decide.

The curved costs $500 more.
 
So the 6700 does 21ms in game mode rite? How is the colour quality in this mode, is it better than Philips BDM4065UC?
 
Curved makes perfect sense on a ultra wide monitor, but for a more "square" monitor like a 40" inch 4K, I am not so sure, would really have to try one before being able to decide.

These are even wider than an ultrawide, so to me the curve is even more important as it brings the outer edges in a bit and makes them easier to see.

I'm not sure why you'd be meh about the curve on these and fine with it on an ultrawide; the start menu is going to look the same on one of those, lol.

The curved costs $500 more.

I can see how it might be hard to justify for that amount. In my case, the difference vs. the flat was only $120.
 
Can drive 4k via both HDMI 2.0 and display port, can drive 4:4:4: 4k via the display port only. Work buddy has been trying for two weeks on his LG 49UB8500 with no luck via HDMI 2.0... :(

OK, finally we have an actual owner with proof. Thank you for the info, really. You saved me $2000 ;)
 
It's funny how many of us in this particular thread had the Westy 37" at some point. :p

Mine went bad after 18 months, replaced with a Dell 3008 and have stuck with it until now.
 
It's funny how many of us in this particular thread had the Westy 37" at some point. :p

Mine went bad after 18 months, replaced with a Dell 3008 and have stuck with it until now.

Still using mine, so itching to upgrade to one of these.
 
Yeah man, remember the Westy threads? They got pretty huge over time. Everyone loved them. I play a lot of Vanilla WoW on mine and other games. Wish I would have kept a history / time like of what I owned through the years
 
It does not have 4:4:4 in game mode, so it will not look better then Philips.

Ok so I would have to use the other modes for 4:4:4 which is going to increase input latency? If that is the case, I won't feel so interested in this TV anymore.
 
Ok so I would have to use the other modes for 4:4:4 which is going to increase input latency? If that is the case, I won't feel so interested in this TV anymore.

It seems this is the case, but I'm waiting for some more reviews or measurements to come out since we've had quite a few different numbers.

Anything under 25ms is fine for me, but I would rather stick with the Phillips at 40ms+.
 
So I had something odd happen last night. I was playing Batman: Arkham City and the screen kept going black every few seconds. The black pauses were very brief; but it was more than just a flicker. It was like the display would lose its signal and then reestablish it. The entire screen would just cut out for a second and then come back. I exited the game and during the process I noticed what looked like some kind of artifacting...random pixels were flickering all over the screen.

Once I quit the game, I opened up Paint and filled the entire screen with a solid black image (I wondered if the flickering pixels were something intentionally designed into the game screens). Sure enough, I could still see dozens of random pixels flickering a cyan color. The same ones were lighting up, and each time they would only do it for a split second. But the display wasn't cutting out anymore like it was during the game.

Immediately I suspected the random crappy HDMI cable that I had used, so I jumped on to Amazon and ordered the high speed Mediabridge cable that was linked earlier. In the meantime, I disabled UHD Color on HDMI 1 and re-enabled it. This reset the connection and appeared to fix the issue; it hasn't come back since. I then hopped back into Batman: AC and played for a good while longer with no more cutting out.

So I don't know if it was a bandwidth issue or if my cable just really sucks or if it was something else entirely, but I'm going to do some more gaming tonight and replace the cable on Tuesday when it gets here. I'll post again if the issue returns, but thought I'd mention it in case anyone else experiences something similar.
 
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So I had something odd happen last night. I was playing Batman: Arkham City and the screen kept going black every few seconds. The black pauses were very brief; but it was more than just a flicker. It was like the display would lose its signal and then reestablish it. The entire screen would just cut out for a second and then come back. I exited the game and during the process I noticed what looked like some kind of artifacting...random pixels were flickering all over the screen.

Uh oh, that's what my Sony did when it overheated. Was a defect with the Playstation 3D display, and worked exactly like you described. Started "blinking" every so often, increasing in frequency as the panel heated up.

Check the temperature of the back next time this happens. Hopefully it turns out to be the cable, and not a defect.
 
Uh oh, that's what my Sony did when it overheated. Was a defect with the Playstation 3D display, and worked exactly like you described. Started "blinking" every so often, increasing in frequency as the panel heated up.

Check the temperature of the back next time this happens. Hopefully it turns out to be the cable, and not a defect.

Hmm, I'll do that. Thanks man. It really seemed like a signaling issue to me, but who knows.

Hopefully it's not a defect so I don't have to reevaluate 40" vs. 48" again... :p
 
Anyone have that info if the 9000 performs better as a pc monitor? Curious how the 3d works form of for movies
 
Thanks, I'm pretty much set on the 40JU6700 as it has the same ppi as my 34UM95 and I've gotten accustomed to it already. I'm actually planning to get that Mount World adapter to use on my Ergo-tech Freedom monitor arm. The 40JU6700 just falls under the max weight limit of the arm so it's perfect.

I guess I still have time to decide as I'm still waiting for AMD's 390X to release for HDMI 2.0.

I've been looking at that monitor arm. Do you think it will work with a 40" screen? All I am looking to do is get the bottom edge kind of flush with my desk (i.e., lower it by 2 inches or so). Ergo-tech's specs mention support for upto 27". Do you think it would be safe using a 100x100:200x200 adapter close to the upper weight limit of the arm?
 
I need two 15' cables for my setup (buying two JU6700's), can anyone confirm if this cable will 100% work?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HSWI8I4...lid=3SHZPY21G7BDV&coliid=I1TL7KPXZEXFX3&psc=1

It says rated HDMI 2.0 4k but I would feel better if someone actually tested it. The problem is, I live in Ecuador and have to import EVERYTHING, so I really need to be certain.

Check the Amazon reviews. The person that said that it worked at 4K @ 60Hz 4:4:4 lists that it was a 6' cable.

Another person posted on 4/3/15 that the 15' cable did NOT work.

The length of the cable is the potential issue.

I have 2 of the exact same 18.2Gps HDMI 2.0 cables from Monoprice, and the 6' worked while the 15' would not display a signal.

I hope this helps.
 
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I've been looking at that monitor arm. Do you think it will work with a 40" screen? All I am looking to do is get the bottom edge kind of flush with my desk (i.e., lower it by 2 inches or so). Ergo-tech's specs mention support for upto 27". Do you think it would be safe using a 100x100:200x200 adapter close to the upper weight limit of the arm?

It should work. It's really more about the weight than the size of the monitor. I'm using it right now with the 34UM94 which weighs 17 lbs with no problem and thats a little larger than 27". The 40JU6700 is also a little over 17 lbs without the stand and it should just barely meet the maximum weight of the arm. The arm is actually pretty beefy and I have no doubt that it will actually hold monitors past 20 lbs.
 
It should work. It's really more about the weight than the size of the monitor. I'm using it right now with the 34UM94 which weighs 17 lbs with no problem and thats a little larger than 27". The 40JU6700 is also a little over 17 lbs without the stand and it should just barely meet the maximum weight of the arm. The arm is actually pretty beefy and I have no doubt that it will actually hold monitors past 20 lbs.

Would you mind posting impressions after you get the display and if you run into any problems with the mount adapter?
 
It does not have 4:4:4 in game mode, so it will not look better then Philips.

My experience with Samsung TVs is that they never give 4:4:4 in any mode unless you rename the input to PC. So, was the input renamed to PC along with enabling Game mode?
 
I keep going back and forth between the Philips 40" and the Samsung. This post in th Philips thread has me wondering about the Samsung.

The only advantage is the curve.

Samsung Disadvantages:

PWM is half of the philips (120hz vs 240hz)
Lag in PC mode is double (44ms vs ~20ms)
Contrast is lower (1:3000 vs 1:5000)
4k/60hz only with HDMI 2.0 (Rare)
Full Glossy Screen (Semigloss is preferable)
Those are all good points, ESPECIALLY the input lag. Has anyone confirmed the lag numbers on the Samsung?
 
Would you mind posting impressions after you get the display and if you run into any problems with the mount adapter?

I will but it will probably take a while. I'm waiting for AMD to release the 390X as I only have a GTX 780 and it doesn't have the required HDMI 2.0 to run the Samsung at 4:4:4 @ 60Hz.
 
Yeah. I pretty much gave up trying to buy the js8500 since you can't toggle gamemode on any picture setting like the glorious Panasonic tvs. Cx800 here I cum.
 
The biggest challenge will be the vertical height. If you can work with that, I would say trying the 48" is worth it (as long as it can be taken back).

I must say I am shocked about you guys rushing to put the48 inchers on your desks. When I am simulating the height of just 40"monitor lowered to touch the desk I find the upper part of the screen way too high, eyes/head have to move up to see it. But when I am looking at the lower part of the screen the light coming from the upper part is kind of felt. That is with 40", with the 48" it would be totally unacceptable. Even more, I see on pics those 48 inchers raised over the desk, this really forces to have the head in raised position which is not healthy at all.

In fact after lowering up and down my 27" and 24" displays I found the highest but still very comfortable height corresponds to a 32" monitor lowered to touch the desk. Then there is still one look for the whole display area.
 
I have my 40ju6500 setup but cannot figure out how to rename HDMI 1 "PC"
 
Someone that has a Sammy, can you tell if, when you shut down and turn back on / wake the TV from sleep in Windows, does Windows get resized and does desktop icons get messed up like it does on a monitor connected via displayport?
 
It seems most people are going with the curved version. Is there anyone that went with the curve and regretted it?
 
I keep going back and forth between the Philips 40" and the Samsung. This post in th Philips thread has me wondering about the Samsung.


Those are all good points, ESPECIALLY the input lag. Has anyone confirmed the lag numbers on the Samsung?

Same here. I already own the Philips but I am trying to find out if the Sammy will have better colour/picture quality in game mode with it renamed to PC input aswell.
 
Same here. I already own the Philips but I am trying to find out if the Sammy will have better colour/picture quality in game mode with it renamed to PC input aswell.

It might, but it will also have a much higher input lag. At input lag comparable to the Philips, the Samsung drops to 4:2:2 I believe.
 
I keep going back and forth between the Philips 40" and the Samsung. This post in th Philips thread has me wondering about the Samsung.


Those are all good points, ESPECIALLY the input lag. Has anyone confirmed the lag numbers on the Samsung?

I haven't measured it but as I recall the Samsung is 44ms normally and in game mode it drops to 21ms. The Dell 3007WFP-HC was 19ms or something like that and I can tell you that the Samsung JU6700 feels like the Dell 3007WFP-HC in terms of input lag. I'm pretty sensitive to it as a general rule and the Samsung has satisfied me on that front.

First of all the Samsung is a Semi Gloss .. Not full.

Indeed.

I must say I am shocked about you guys rushing to put the48 inchers on your desks. When I am simulating the height of just 40"monitor lowered to touch the desk I find the upper part of the screen way too high, eyes/head have to move up to see it. But when I am looking at the lower part of the screen the light coming from the upper part is kind of felt. That is with 40", with the 48" it would be totally unacceptable. Even more, I see on pics those 48 inchers raised over the desk, this really forces to have the head in raised position which is not healthy at all.

In fact after lowering up and down my 27" and 24" displays I found the highest but still very comfortable height corresponds to a 32" monitor lowered to touch the desk. Then there is still one look for the whole display area.

There was no rushing. I was leaning toward the 40" until I read the experiences of so many who used the 48". Where I sit, with the monitor on its normal stand my eyes are almost precisely positioned in the center line of the display. I don't find it too large or difficult to look at from any perspective. In fact when I saw the monitor in the store I knew right away that the 40" was too small for me and that the 48" was just right. The PPI of the 40" is a little nicer but honestly the text looks far better on the 48" than I would have imagined.

With the stand the 48" isn't far off the desk at all. My eyes are point straight to the centerline while I'm in a fairly relaxed seating position. I'm not some Lurch like bastard either. I'm 6' even. I don't think my chair is unusually high up either. Do what you want of course but many of us believe the 48" to be just right and a few in this thread went even larger.

I have my 40ju6500 setup but cannot figure out how to rename HDMI 1 "PC"

When you hit the source button you'll see the menu of available sources. Highlight the one you want to rename and arrow down on the remote. You'll get a context menu and you can select the "edit" option to rename the input.

Someone that has a Sammy, can you tell if, when you shut down and turn back on / wake the TV from sleep in Windows, does Windows get resized and does desktop icons get messed up like it does on a monitor connected via displayport?

My ROG Swifts used DisplayPort cables and I never saw this behavior. I haven't seen it with my Samsung JU6700 48" either.

It seems most people are going with the curved version. Is there anyone that went with the curve and regretted it?

I think the general consensus here is that the 40" version is fine either flat or curved. I doubt anyone who went with the curved version regrets it. With the 48" the curve feels more "necessary" due to the size of it. I certainly don't regret it. I'm glad I found the 48" curve locally or I might have bought the flat one and I don't think the 48" flat version would have worked as well as a computer monitor.
 
Immediately I suspected the random crappy HDMI cable that I had used, so I jumped on to Amazon and ordered the high speed Mediabridge cable that was linked earlier.

Has anyone confirmed this cable works at 15' 4:4:4 60hz?
 
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Damn Crutchfield. I ordered on Thurs and they still haven't shipped yet (2 day shipping be damned). They just submitted a shipping label to UPS.
 
The PPI of the 40" is a little nicer but honestly the text looks far better on the 48" than I would have imagined.

PPI is a pointless marketing "feature". My phone has amazing PPI but I'm not about to use it as a PC monitor.
 
Someone that has a Sammy, can you tell if, when you shut down and turn back on / wake the TV from sleep in Windows, does Windows get resized and does desktop icons get messed up like it does on a monitor connected via displayport?

Mine doesn't do this. Everything is just as it was when the display turned off.

Has anyone confirmed this cable works at 15' 4:4:4 60hz?

I will let you know on Tuesday if no one else chimes in before then. If not, it's going back and I will try a shorter version or maybe one of these:

Twisted Veins

AmazonBasics

Monoprice

You could always get an "Active" HDMI cable (supposedly better for longer runs) but I have no experience with them. Example.
 
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When you hit the source button you'll see the menu of available sources. Highlight the one you want to rename and arrow down on the remote. You'll get a context menu and you can select the "edit" option to rename the input.

Thank you, probably a case of me not RTFM, but appreciated nonetheless.:cool:



I haven't measured it but as I recall the Samsung is 44ms normally and in game mode it drops to 21ms. The Dell 3007WFP-HC was 19ms or something like that and I can tell you that the Samsung JU6700 feels like the Dell 3007WFP-HC in terms of input lag. I'm pretty sensitive to it as a general rule and the Samsung has satisfied me on that front.

Coming from a 3007wfp (non hc) I think the input lag, even in game mode, is much higher. I wonder if it's because I had not renamed the input to "PC" yet. UHD color was on, but some other "TV" features could have been enabled still. I'll have to test some FPS to be sure.

Is there a quicker way to turn on game mode other than going through the entire menuy/setting path?
 
Thank you, probably a case of me not RTFM, but appreciated nonetheless.:cool:





Coming from a 3007wfp (non hc) I think the input lag, even in game mode, is much higher. I wonder if it's because I had not renamed the input to "PC" yet. UHD color was on, but some other "TV" features could have been enabled still. I'll have to test some FPS to be sure.

Is there a quicker way to turn on game mode other than going through the entire menuy/setting path?

I don't know that renaming the input to PC has any effect on input lag. I'd doubt it. But there is a definite difference in game mode. Unfortunately there isn't an easier way to enable / disable it. I have a 3007WFP-HC on my test bench and jumping back and fourth I haven't noticed a major difference in input lag between the two. At least not in game mode.

I am still coming from ROG Swifts so they both feel a little "slow" to me.
 
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