NCASE M1: a crowdfunded Mini-ITX case (updates in first post)

FML... After waiting a month and paying a premium ($255) the package finally arrives. Box wasn't even damaged I couldn't believe it! (I have terrible luck with postal service package damage in the past) Then I open it up and I saw silver... ewww. I went from super stoked to super mad instantly :(

Just double checked my order receipt in my email to verify I ordered Black + Optical drive slot, so someone got them mixed up during shipping
Sorry about that. We're relying on Taiwan Post to ship packages and mistakes can happen. Drop w360 an email (info at ncases dot com) and he'll set up an exchange for you.
 
FML... After waiting a month and paying a premium ($255) the package finally arrives. Box wasn't even damaged I couldn't believe it! (I have terrible luck with postal service package damage in the past) Then I open it up and I saw silver... ewww. I went from super stoked to super mad instantly :(

Just double checked my order receipt in my email to verify I ordered Black + Optical drive slot, so someone got them mixed up during shipping

Yeah i had a similar situation. I was in the first shipment that arrived around christmas and Taiwan Postal put the wrong name on the package and was sent back because it was rejected at an office building it was being delivered too :( really sucks now cause i paid for fast shipping and have to wait another 2 months to get my case :( but email ncase they will do everything in they can to fix it
 
Just curious, I really like the red power LED of the original Ncase renderings. Would having red as the power LED rather than the activity LED be as simple as switching the leads to the motherboard from the front the M1? One issue I can see is that the motherboard has three pins for the power led (two of which are used), and the two leads from the activity indicator LED are connected.

Would it be as simple as just separating the two leads from the activity indicator LED and connecting to them to the power LED pins on the motherboard?
 
Omg .. I hope it's not mixed up with mine ( I ordered silver ). Mine was delivered yesterday but I haven't checked it yet !! ( I'm away ). Fingers crossed.
 
Just curious, I really like the red power LED of the original Ncase renderings. Would having red as the power LED rather than the activity LED be as simple as switching the leads to the motherboard from the front the M1? One issue I can see is that the motherboard has three pins for the power led (two of which are used), and the two leads from the activity indicator LED are connected.
Yes, you can just switch them. I'm not sure why your board has an extra pin for the power LED - I know the ASUS P8Z77-I Deluxe for example only has two:

zNOq38x.png


Is the third pin on your board between the other two?
 
Yes, you can just switch them. I'm not sure why your board has an extra pin for the power LED - I know the ASUS P8Z77-I Deluxe for example only has two:

Is the third pin on your board between the other two?

Thought it would be as simple as just switching them....

On the board I'm using (GA-B75M-D2V) the extra pin is between the other two unfortunately:

FBmhCYul.png
 
Nice write-up ! Thanks for taking your time. Can you link to the PCIe riser you used and perhaps illustrate how you've bent it ? Have you also tested the performance and if it is still linking at PCIe 3.0 x16 ?

Some followups:
My PCIe riser is resulting unstable performance on my GPU so I'm considering getting another one. It is linking at PCIe 3.0 x8 (I'm using Asus M7I with a PCIe SSD so it is running at x8). I also took a clearer image to illustrate how the cable is bent. Please see below.


I was considering buying the following flex extender, as they at least claim Gen3 compatibility.
http://www.ameri-rack.com/ARC1-PELX16A1-C7V2.html
Would have preferred something with EMI shielding, but if it works, I won't complain.

Would 7cm be sufficient, or would I need to go for 11 cm do you think?

It looks very similar to what I'm using. The cable on the daughter board is coming out from the bottom so you will have to bend it a lot like this:
T6HCqNU.jpg


The cable in the picture is 10cm long so I'd say 7cm is a tough one.
 
Alternatively if you are handy you can try swapping the hdd and power led plug housings. You'll need something like a tiny screwdriver to unlatch the pins from the housing.

I always use an x-acto knife (or stanley knife #99 or just any craft knife with thin blade). Just lift up the little tab and slide out the pin.
 
Some followups:
My PCIe riser is resulting unstable performance on my GPU so I'm considering getting another one. It is linking at PCIe 3.0 x8 (I'm using Asus M7I with a PCIe SSD so it is running at x8). I also took a clearer image to illustrate how the cable is bent. Please see below.

It doesn't look like that extender you're using has any shielding on the cable, that's probably the issue.
 
You guys should trade! You can be ncase buddies!
That's TWP's suggestion for how we deal with their screw up. So far from this run we have 12 people that got the wrong color, which will cost a lot in shipping to exchange. Needless to say, w360 is not happy about it.
 
Really?? Seems like a pretty unreasonable suggestion for you guys to have to collect 12 sets of cases and then redistribute them.
 
Hi all, hope you don't mind me posting a coupe of questions in my first post, after going round in circles between this an a parvum itx case, I'm just about to order a v3 M1. I will have 120mm AIO cpu cooler and the hdd bracket installed - has anyone manage to mount a fan between the side of the case and the hdd to keep it cool? Or even a hdd mounted fan?

And I saw a YouTube vid where someone had put an anti vandal switch on the M1, is there a step by step guide to doing this?

Cheers
 
Really?? Seems like a pretty unreasonable suggestion for you guys to have to collect 12 sets of cases and then redistribute them.
No, their suggestion was to have people that got the wrong color ship their case directly to eachother. It's the least expensive way, but not ideal for the customer.

I will have 120mm AIO cpu cooler and the hdd bracket installed - has anyone manage to mount a fan between the side of the case and the hdd to keep it cool? Or even a hdd mounted fan?
If you're just using one 3.5" drive in the bracket you can mount a 120mm fan between it and the fan bracket. Scroll down to the last couple pics in config 1a of my first thermal/noise test for an example.

I haven't seen a guide for the vandal switch mod, but I believe that was done by a user here and there may be some discussion on it if you search the thread.
 
Some followups:
My PCIe riser is resulting unstable performance on my GPU so I'm considering getting another one. It is linking at PCIe 3.0 x8 (I'm using Asus M7I with a PCIe SSD so it is running at x8). I also took a clearer image to illustrate how the cable is bent. Please see below.

It doesn't look like that extender you're using has any shielding on the cable, that's probably the issue.

Yes, that was my first thought, too. Try wrapping it in aluminium foil. It sounds like a redneck solution, but aluminium is a pretty good EMI shield after all, and it certainly worked for others.

Not really a guide but this guy swapped it with a 12mm switch: http://oliver.st/blog/ncase-m1/

I see that guy has two SSDs practically touching each other, is that the standard way this 2.5" mount works in the M1? Is that even a good idea from a temperature point of view?
Also, that HDD indicator LED is fuggin rad!
 
BTW, Its worth noting that NCASEs is now the owner of the google spreadsheet. I'm saying this because if anybody needs to post anything but somehow doesn't allow you, speak to the NCASE team.
 
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No, their suggestion was to have people that got the wrong color ship their case directly to each other. It's the least expensive way, but not ideal for the customer.

Have you weighed the costs of just shipping the recipients of wrong color cases a panel kit in the color they intended? It might be cheaper in the end, I don't really know, was just a thought.
 
I have a question regarding US delivery. My package hasn't updated since last Wednesday when it said it was Inbound out of Customs. Does anyone know if this means it's still sitting somewhere in California to be sorted and shipped by USPS or does this mean its been released already and I am just waiting for USPS to do something?
 
I have a question regarding US delivery. My package hasn't updated since last Wednesday when it said it was Inbound out of Customs. Does anyone know if this means it's still sitting somewhere in California to be sorted and shipped by USPS or does this mean its been released already and I am just waiting for USPS to do something?

I'm in the same situation. Tracking can only give you hints to where it has been. Not where it is currently. I say wait until tomorrow, and if there is no update, call USPS. Freightliners may deliver packages to your post office during the weekend and by Monday, the packages will be scanned. However, tomorrow is a federal holiday and you will not receive an update until Tuesday.
 
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Yes, you can just switch them. I'm not sure why your board has an extra pin for the power LED - I know the ASUS P8Z77-I Deluxe for example only has two:

zNOq38x.png


Is the third pin on your board between the other two?

I am attempting the power switch mod to the anti vandal led switch, what voltage would I need? 3v, 6v, 12v? I am getting a sample from this page

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/100p...tch-Ring-LED-DHL-Free-Shipping/862820050.html

will be under $8 for one or two switches, just need to figure out which one i need
 
I am attempting the power switch mod to the anti vandal led switch, what voltage would I need?
IIRC the header is +5v, but this doesn't really matter. The mobo will current-limit the output, so you can pretty much just stick any LED on there and it will work.
 
IIRC the header is +5v, but this doesn't really matter. The mobo will current-limit the output, so you can pretty much just stick any LED on there and it will work.

alright thanks. havent had to deal with anything like this for a long time. so wouldnt i be better off getting the 6v rather than the 12v? and are you saying if i get the 3v it will limit the power to 3v for the led?
 
If you get the 12V version you can hook it up directly to any 12V output of the PSU. I think for the mobo it should be the 3V version.
 
I am attempting the power switch mod to the anti vandal led switch, what voltage would I need? 3v, 6v, 12v? I am getting a sample from this page

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/100p...tch-Ring-LED-DHL-Free-Shipping/862820050.html

will be under $8 for one or two switches, just need to figure out which one i need

If you're not deadset on getting a white LED switch, you can get blue from here or red here. I'm currently running a blue one, and changing between switches is pretty easy.

c4nfqvor.yvy.jpg

In the bracket
r4z45pms.iih.jpg


Front panel cables can be bought from here so you don't wreck the original.

The HDD activity LED is a bit trickier to do. From the looks of the original mod, he must have drilled a hole in the bottom of the case, just behind the front panel bracket to fit the LED. You only need a capacitor and LED which you can get from here and here.

51hsnhyr.oit.jpg

Taken with my Nokia Potato 800 :rolleyes:
 
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Wouldn't you want to go for the higher rated voltage LED? Would the MB feed the full 5V across the 3V LED? I'd rather have a slightly dimmer LED than a potentially burnt one. Of course, if there's a resistor inline (or some other current limiter--parallel diode?) then I guess it doesn't matter.
 
Does anyone know what the maximum height for a graphics card to fit with two bottom mounted 120mm fans? Would a 970 strix fit together with 2 120mm Corsair AF120 fans?
 
Wouldn't you want to go for the higher rated voltage LED? Would the MB feed the full 5V across the 3V LED? I'd rather have a slightly dimmer LED than a potentially burnt one. Of course, if there's a resistor inline (or some other current limiter--parallel diode?) then I guess it doesn't matter.

There has to be a resistor inline already since mobo headers accept standard LEDs.
 
Does anyone know what the maximum height for a graphics card to fit with two bottom mounted 120mm fans? Would a 970 strix fit together with 2 120mm Corsair AF120 fans?

970 Strix is too tall, as in you won't be able to close the side panel with the card installed.
 
If you're not deadset on getting a white LED switch, you can get blue from here or red here. I'm currently running a blue one, and changing between switches is pretty easy.

Front panel cables can be bought from here so you don't wreck the original.

The HDD activity LED is a bit trickier to do. From the looks of the original mod, he must have drilled a hole in the bottom of the case, just behind the front panel bracket to fit the LED. You only need a capacitor and LED which you can get from here and here.

51hsnhyr.oit.jpg

Taken with my Nokia Potato 800 :rolleyes:

nice ill definitely be buying those cables then i guess and just routing the reset switch to pwr switch. I do want a white one and am about to order one on aliexpress. is yours 3v as well? i will be doing the hdd led mod later on, really just want to get the switch in there.

also how do you determine which pin on the vandal switch does what? and did you chop off those 2 leds and switch and solder them to the vandal switch?
 
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Is it possible to take apart the switch and swap the LED inside without breaking it?
 
nice ill definitely be buying those cables then i guess and just routing the reset switch to pwr switch. I do want a white one and am about to order one on aliexpress. is yours 3v as well? i will be doing the hdd led mod later on, really just want to get the switch in there.

also how do you determine which pin on the vandal switch does what? and did you chop off those 2 leds and switch and solder them to the vandal switch?

There was nothing to say what voltage they are but at ~3.7V they burn out (I bought a couple extra in case of duds)so 3V would be right.

The 4 pins are marked on the back of the switch, with a + and - for the LED. The other 2 pins don't matter which way you attach the wires. I cut the wires just short enough to directly route from the motherboard, down the side of the bottom fan and reach the bracket then soldered the wires to the pins.

Is it possible to take apart the switch and swap the LED inside without breaking it?

Not unless you're a Harry, wizard.
 
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55$ PCIExpress right angle riser cable. Allows you to move the Video Card down one slot and then you can fit a standard size ATX Power supply in the Ncase M1. http://www.adexelec.com/pciexp.htm#PE-FLEX16KR-3. This is the only cable I have found that is shielded and can bend properly enough to fit the Video Card in the case properly. Still working great after several months. Less expensive than buying that expensive power supply.
 
55$ PCIExpress right angle riser cable. Allows you to move the Video Card down one slot and then you can fit a standard size ATX Power supply in the Ncase M1. http://www.adexelec.com/pciexp.htm#PE-FLEX16KR-3. This is the only cable I have found that is shielded and can bend properly enough to fit the Video Card in the case properly. Still working great after several months. Less expensive than buying that expensive power supply.

I found another one: http://www.delock.de/produkte/F_380_PCIe-x16_89130/merkmale.html

It goes for as little as 34€ and it is quite easy to find shops for it when googling "delock 89130".
 
Ordered v3 no odd slot, today received one with slot.
On the bright side, the panel colour is the right one (black).
 
So for an update on the Alpenfohn Cooler on the 750ti:

I played AC4 on medium-high for about an hour, and my maximum temperature on the GPU was 71C, which is the same as my old High, and it started at 22C, which is the coolest I've ever seen it, though it went up to 35C or so shortly after boot.


CPU temperatures didn't appreciably change between the stock cooler and the new one.

The biggest change is the complete lack of noise coming from my Ncase now. :)

Hardware monitor:

KfdsFYD.jpg
 
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