NCASE M1: a crowdfunded Mini-ITX case (updates in first post)

The low profile coolers I'm looking at, Cooler Master GeminII M4, Noctua L9i, Zalman CNPS8900, etc (also looking at Prolima Sam-17 which has decent reviews but spreadsheet says is barely better than stock) are rated pretty badly, barely better than stock by a few degrees, so since it is a pretty cramped case I figure whatever can keep it cooler is probably a good bet.
Do you have space for the Scythe Big Shuriken Rev 2? It's considerably wider, still low-profile and I've been impressed how well it cools an i5-4590. Wouldn't have minded it being another cm lower though :)
 
Do you have space for the Scythe Big Shuriken Rev 2? It's considerably wider, still low-profile and I've been impressed how well it cools an i5-4590. Wouldn't have minded it being another cm lower though :)
The reviews I've seen seem to indicate performance on par with the GeminII M4 and L9i.
 
While at the cooling topic, what is the best (best compromise between CFM and quietness) PWM 120 mm for my Thermalright AXP-100R heatsink?
The stock 100 mm one vibrates a lot.
I've put my own 120 mm fan but it's very old and only 3 pin and kinda loud.
Thank you.
 
With Noctua NH-C14, is it better having the fans in default (blowing down on motherboard) or reverse ( away from motherboard).
 
Any update on when its coming to the states? 2 weeks? 3 weeks? I don't mind the wait anyway.

I also just read about people using a HDPLEX 250W along with a SX600g which i never thought about, great for those wanting SLIs or a 295X2.
Still trying to sell my parts but its been a struggle
 
Any update on when its coming to the states? 2 weeks? 3 weeks? I don't mind the wait anyway.

I also just read about people using a HDPLEX 250W along with a SX600g which i never thought about, great for those wanting SLIs or a 295X2.
Still trying to sell my parts but its been a struggle

From memory, the boat should arrive in the US on the 19th September. They'll then be sent out. I'm planning my build for the end of September.
 
I apologize if someone has said this earlier in the thread, but i wasn't able to find anything myself but....

Has anyone tried Noctua NF-A15's in the side/bottom mounts? I have my NCase on preorder and am picking up the rest of the components while i wait, and was wondering if i should get a couple 15's instead of the F12's. Ideas?
 
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I apologize if someone has said this earlier in the thread, but i wasn't able to find anything myself but....

Has anyone tried Noctua NF-A15's in the side/bottom mounts? I have my NCase on preorder and am picking up the rest of the components while i wait, and was wondering if i should get a couple 15's instead of the F12's. Ideas?

you could only mount a single NF-A15 on the side bracket i guess ...
 
With Noctua NH-C14, is it better having the fans in default (blowing down on motherboard) or reverse ( away from motherboard).

I would think top-down (taking in fresh air and blowing it through the C14 towards the mobo) would probably work best.. at least that's how mine's setup on my C12. You can try it either way, and see what works best for you.

Has anyone tried Noctua NF-A15's in the side/bottom mounts? I have my NCase on preorder and am picking up the rest of the components while i wait, and was wondering if i should get a couple 15's instead of the F12's. Ideas?

Don't think anyone's tried an A15 in the M1 yet. I originally had F12's.. 2 on the bottom and 1 on the side rack, then swapped to the stock P14 directly on my C12 (which improved temps). Just bought an A15 PWM, that I'm going to try replacing the P14 with. I'm not 100% sure yet, but I think it will clear everything (top cover, rear A9x14 and side 3.5" HDD bracket) when mounted to the C12. I'm almost certain the A15 will not fit on the bottom.

UPDATE 2014-8-27: For those experience a wobbling issue with M1 V2, please see this video http://youtu.be/GPbBm1YC7Ts

Thanks W360! Think I'm going to try that when I take out my mobo to swap my wireless card.

*Not responsible for typographical errors (video is from LL)

Was there something wrong with their instructions, or do you not recommend this?

I'm thinking my case mustn't be completely square, as I had a hell of a time trying to get my mobo into place with the rear i/o shield while matching up the mobo mounts (almost like the mobo was trying to stay ~2mm towards the front of the case).
 
Was there something wrong with their instructions, or do you not recommend this?
The text instructions had some grammar and spelling mistakes, and identified things wrongly compared to what was in the video (switching left and right). I added annotations with corrected descriptions, however. It was followable, it just didn't look very professional. The procedure shown in the video itself looks fine, though.
 
The text instructions had some grammar and spelling mistakes, and identified things wrongly compared to what was in the video (switching left and right). I added annotations with corrected descriptions, however. It was followable, it just didn't look very professional. The procedure shown in the video itself looks fine, though.

Gotcha, thanks! ;)
 
That's not what I've seen here: http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1270-page7.html

On a par with the Noctua NH-L12 in some configurations, and distinctly cheaper. Though the Noctua is an object of desire... :cool:
Ah, it's about 10 degrees better at max fan speed than the Cooler Master. But the weight is an issue for me, I want something under 300g with both heatsink and fan. So far only the GeminII M4 seems to be the option for me for something that lightweight.

45 C over ambient at max fan speed is tolerable, even in hot ambient temps, and it'd certainly be lower on a slower CPU like the i5-4590S.
 
Anyone has any experience with Noiseblocker B12-P ?

currently using 2x in the side fan mounts of my M1 v2, one of which is mounted to my Thermaltake Water 3.0 Performer

they are excellent fans, i find them to be very quiet up to 50-60% and even above that the sound quality is far superior to fans ive used prior, with no rattling, whining etc.

high quality, good SP and good airflow. bit expensive though.
 
With Noctua NH-C14, is it better having the fans in default (blowing down on motherboard) or reverse ( away from motherboard).

In huge cases, or open air test setups, the difference would only be applicable to the behaviour of your fan. A high pressure fan will see less difference, while a lower pressure fan will see a noticeable drop in efficiency with the fan reversed as it needs more space in front of the fan to reduce stalling of the blades. Putting fins in front of the fan will reduce efficacy. I ensured that my fans are at least a couple mm spaced from the filters/fins.

In the Ncase M1, you will find that having fan blowing down should give you even better temps as you are pulling in Cold air from the outside of the case (the fan is nicely positioned against the side grille).

Reversing the direction will in this case help to exhaust air, but you will be pulling air that is pre-warmed, therefore your temps will be higher by the temperature delta of your case temp over external air temp.

Just ensure that you give the fan enough room in front of the blades, regardless of its orientation (blowing on or away from the mobo). Experimentation is easy too.

The C14 is a great cooler for this case as it has the perfect height to make use of the side vent if you intend to use it as a side intake, especially if you have a non-blower style GPU, as this is the only way you can ensure CPU temps are isolated from GPU temps. Any other cooler might do well in open air, but in the NCase, a non-blower will make any other CPU cooler work extra hard because it cops all the hot air from the GPU.

Thus, back to Neceres position, this case strongly prefers a blower style GPU for airflow reasons, and this is a good example of why. If noise is a concern, then if you use a non-blower GPU, you need to accept higher CPU temps, or find a way to give the CPU a fresh air supply. The C14 makes so much sense, IF you are prepared to give away a HDD mounting rack (or both left and right mounting points, depending on CPU location), and don't want to go water.
 
In huge cases, or open air test setups, the difference would only be applicable to the behaviour of your fan. A high pressure fan will see less difference, while a lower pressure fan will see a noticeable drop in efficiency with the fan reversed as it needs more space in front of the fan to reduce stalling of the blades. Putting fins in front of the fan will reduce efficacy. I ensured that my fans are at least a couple mm spaced from the filters/fins.

In the Ncase M1, you will find that having fan blowing down should give you even better temps as you are pulling in Cold air from the outside of the case (the fan is nicely positioned against the side grille).

Reversing the direction will in this case help to exhaust air, but you will be pulling air that is pre-warmed, therefore your temps will be higher by the temperature delta of your case temp over external air temp.

Just ensure that you give the fan enough room in front of the blades, regardless of its orientation (blowing on or away from the mobo). Experimentation is easy too.

The C14 is a great cooler for this case as it has the perfect height to make use of the side vent if you intend to use it as a side intake, especially if you have a non-blower style GPU, as this is the only way you can ensure CPU temps are isolated from GPU temps. Any other cooler might do well in open air, but in the NCase, a non-blower will make any other CPU cooler work extra hard because it cops all the hot air from the GPU.

Thus, back to Neceres position, this case strongly prefers a blower style GPU for airflow reasons, and this is a good example of why. If noise is a concern, then if you use a non-blower GPU, you need to accept higher CPU temps, or find a way to give the CPU a fresh air supply. The C14 makes so much sense, IF you are prepared to give away a HDD mounting rack (or both left and right mounting points, depending on CPU location), and don't want to go water.

Thanks!
 
*Not responsible for typographical errors (video is from LL)

So essentially… Twist the case until it is less warped. :p

I think I might have done this without thinking.. haha.

This is just down to assembly squareness. I think the panels are all cut perfectly, its just how they get riveted together, and I feel that thats all fair and part of the process for this type of build with corner rivets. Not a major concern at all, unless its so far out that it cannot be bent back.

As long as you don't bend it one way and the other too many times, loosening up the rivets. Keep in mind that you will still be doing this to your case throughout its lifetime by moving the case around. Picking up a heavy case by opposing corners, or placing the case down on an uneven surface.

Doesn't stop me taking this case from one house to another, then to work and back on a regular basis, sometimes in a tote bag, sometimes in a backpack, and on a kick scooter. Bought this case for this purpose, and won't let it stop me doing so.
 
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The clips holding the panel is this?

cpa-619_10.jpg


http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...le.html?tl=g43c241s333&id=JHgob3II&mv_pc=6511
 
So essentially… Twist the case until it is less warped. :p

Tried this tonight and it helped.. but only very slightly. Maybe brought my short foot from 2mm off a flat surface down to 1mm. Changed my feet from gold to silver, but that sure as hell didn't help :p

Think I'll try and hunt down a very thin washer.


Also, the Noctua A15 fits the M1. Mounted horizontally (longer tabs toward front and rear), it just barely fits between the 3.5" side HDD rack and a rear A9x14 fan. I ended up mounting it vertically directly to my C12 (as far to the rear as possible), and it still clears everything. Not 100% sure yet, but it looks like the bottom tab will also clear a GPU.

Fixed the Broadcom AC issue (not waking from sleep until power cord is pulled) by gutting my ASUS Wi-Fi GO! module and installing an Intel 7260 AC card (was a tiny puzzle so let me know if anyone needs any advice). Wireless works properly now, except the Bluetooth seems flaky and slow to connect (oddly, the Broadcom BT worked perfectly all the time). Can't win for losing :D

4790k (L4 batch) installed. Temps are near identical to the 4770k on the C12, which is good. Stupid Crucial Ballsack Tactical LP still causes crashes at XMP #1 (1.35V) and still works fine at XMP #2 (1.5V).

SX600-G installed. Was semi-fanless for about a minute, and has been running at idle ever since (exterior intake, filtered). Fan still sounds crappy like my ST45SF-G, but is much quieter (but nothing other than running AIDA64 stress testing to put a load on it). Have to actually put my ear inches away from the case to hear the fan (could hear my 450W at idle across the room).

Last note. Those awesome thin blue Silverstone CP11 SATA cables.. stay the fuck away from them. Had 2 of them go bad recently (one causing my SSD to drop from Sata3 to Sata2 speeds, and the other causing the same with my 3.5" HDD with random disappearances).
 
Oh computers. What a hobby. Great when things work, not so much when they don't. Is it any wonder people buy Macs?
 
So it is better or not? As I'm a bit confused by the "Fan still sounds crappy like my ..." :)

As long as load/temps are down it's probably better (due to fanless part); once the fan spins its similar as the ST45SF-G or better?

SX600-G installed. Was semi-fanless for about a minute, and has been running at idle ever since (exterior intake, filtered). Fan still sounds crappy like my ST45SF-G, but is much quieter (but nothing other than running AIDA64 stress testing to put a load on it). Have to actually put my ear inches away from the case to hear the fan (could hear my 450W at idle across the room).
 
So it is better or not? As I'm a bit confused by the "Fan still sounds crappy like my ..." :)

As long as load/temps are down it's probably better (due to fanless part); once the fan spins its similar as the ST45SF-G or better?

The 0-RPM semi-fanless part is either complete bullshit, or just not working in my particular setup (perhaps the filtered intake?). I've been at complete idle w/cool temps for hours, and the fan has been spinning the entire time (very low RPM, but I can feel it pulling air and hear it with my ear near the case). The fan does sound very crappy, but it's inaudible from my usual position/distance/angle from the case (if I turned my case 90° with the PSU intake facing me, I could hear the fan chatter up to a foot away - but still at a much quieter volume than my ST45SF-G).

Better or not? Yes, I think it's much better than my ST45SF-G. Kinda happy with it, kinda pissed about it.. what can you do? :)
 
Got my case and overall quite pleased with it.

Only flaw I've found is that one side panel sits noticeably higher than the other at the front and slopes down towards the case rear.

 
Got my case and overall quite pleased with it.

Only flaw I've found is that one side panel sits noticeably higher than the other at the front and slopes down towards the case rear.

If that is as low as the panel will go (the mounting posts allow some play) then you should contact wahaha at [email protected]
 
If that is as low as the panel will go (the mounting posts allow some play) then you should contact wahaha at [email protected]

That is indeed as low as it will go. There's very little play in the mounting posts IMO. If you just put the top mounts in, it'll sit flush with the top, but when I attach the side mounts, it gets locked a bit above the top panel. I wouldn't mind the panels extending out past the top panel if they both did it equally and if they extended the same amount the entire length of the case.

I can see that a lot of people in the build gallery have side panels that sit flush with the top. I'll contact W360 about it.
 
Got my case and overall quite pleased with it.

Only flaw I've found is that one side panel sits noticeably higher than the other at the front and slopes down towards the case rear.

Do you have the wobbling issue as well? Your top panel looks like its not quite straight from the picture (might just be the picture). If the entire case is a bit off you could try the tecnique described in the youtube clip a couple of posts back and see if it helps.
 
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