spacediver
2[H]4U
- Joined
- Mar 14, 2013
- Messages
- 2,715
and, OMFG i got windas to work finally. Turns out I was using a faulty windas version.
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AG Coating Guide
pics all work for me, i'd say try out the spare one?
The one in the video looks pretty bad, probably not worth (or even possible at all) to get replacement parts
EDIT: Added pics.. Note the second pic. The only place that you have to worry about getting killed touching by taking the back side off is that area i marked in the second pic. Thats the area that one would touch with a tool to drain the power from the caps. If you touch that you'll most likely have a large hole blown through your heart! hehe.
My uneducated guess would be that it might be an ABL (automatic brightness limiter) issue. This is a setting that turns the monitor off when the brightness is too much (it's to protect the phosphors I think). So perhaps your ABL is set to too low a threshold, or your guns are emitting too much (either due to too much drive, too extreme a G2, or something else). I really don't know, but if I HAD to guess, this would be my first guess.
Try turning your brightness and contrast way down and see if problem persists. Also, does it appear really bright when you turn it on?
Try watching these four videos (close to 8 hours in total!), perhaps you'll have a better idea of how to diagnose the issue.
http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLAC3CD6EF86D487DA
(I've only watched the first couple, but they're fantastic)
It looks totally normal other than the flashes of red that then turn into a constant screen of red.
Leading up to the other day when I reached this point, the screen would flash red every once in a while during normal use (maybe once every other day) or it would do a lot of flashing when turning it on after it being off for an extended period of time. When I've had this problem before I could usually circumvent it by running at a lower resolution and refresh rate while it warms up but in that video I'm running at 640x480 at 60hz and it still refuses to stay on longer than a few seconds.
Messing with the brightness/contrast didn't help at all.
I am having the exact same issue with my IBM P260 monitor (its a Trinitron). My WinDas failure log showed an ABL error:
** SHUTDOWN_LOG_0 **
1-No H pulse : Normal
1-No V pulse : Normal
1-HV Stop : Normal
1-HV OVP : Normal
1-ABL : Error
1-No PW Supply : Normal
1-+B OVP : Normal
1-ThermalDetect: Normal
So, something is failing in both our monitors. What it is, I have not yet figured out, although some older posts about Sony televisions have mentioned failed resistors in the circuit controlling the G2 levels. The G2 level is, interestingly, what you adjust down using WinDas to correct a too bright monitor.
Thanks everyone. I taped all the wires together and finally manged to get them in. My defualt G2 value was 143 I changed it to 120 and it looks amazing compare to what it was before. It also let's me do the image restoration process.
The colors seem kind of dull and whites are sort of greyish. I wonder if the tube is just worn out or if I just have to calibrate it better. I might play with the drive_max setting.
I wouldn't just start playing around. Mess with the controls on the OSD first before you start playing with the settings internally.
Run WinDAS/WinCAT white balance adjustment to Sony factory specs and that will solve all the issues you are having with these two monitors.
Hope this helps...
Unkle Vito!
Not possible to do, or do safely, without color calibration hardware (I did try). Unfortunately, a colorimeter is not in my budget this month.
Hi all,
Hope someone with some insight could help me out, i recently bought a AMD 290 none pro, and have just realised that they no longer come with dvi-i connections ><
I currently use dvi-i to bnc connection, however also have a VGA to BNC cable.
Would the following display port to VGA active converter allow me to run 1920x1200 @ 85hz?
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Accell-B101B-003B-UltraAV-Display-Adapter/dp/B003HC85D2
I tried researching online however cannot find any facts as to whether these devices are capped at 60hz or able to run 85hz+
If there is another product item that will allow me to achieve the above please let me know
Kamz
I was going to grab a 290 but this very reason stopped me.
The trend is looking dire. Nvidia GTX6xx and prior all had 2 DVI-I ports. The latest GTX7xx series have dropped to just 1 DVI-I port.
Thanks for the responses guys, yeah sadly gonna have to return my 290, and look into getting a card that will last me a few years, guess a 780gtx will have to do now
Whats the chances of a future dp/vga converter with 300+MHz? Im guessing slim....
****Edit Just seen hdfury4 firmware update claiming 1080p @96 could this be viable?
http://www.hdfury.com/products/hdfury4-specs/
Kamz
No, which is why if you want it done right you leave it to the professionals. AKA - Unkle Vito.
No offense to Unkle, a guy's got to make a living somehow, but the cost for his services, including shipping to and from for a 90+ pound monitor, certainly exceeds the cost for an entry level to mid-level colorimeter purchased off ebay and is absolutely more, way more, than I paid for the monitor, which I found on Craigslist.
If and when I master WinDAS, i'll probably make a solid tutorial for doing white point balance adjustment, using a colorimeter/spectro and HCFR. Right now the bottleneck is buying a laptop. I'm looking to get a refurbished one and install XP on it. Just haven't gotten around to doing research.
Don't know. You'd have to try and report back to us.
Vito - what do you personally use to set the focus of a monitor? I know there are two pots on the FW900 (and the Phillips too), but how do you personally make sure they're set to optimal?
No offense to Unkle, a guy's got to make a living somehow, but the cost for his services, including shipping to and from for a 90+ pound monitor, certainly exceeds the cost for an entry level to mid-level colorimeter purchased off ebay and is absolutely more, way more, than I paid for the monitor, which I found on Craigslist.
Set WinDAS for focus adjustment, then run a MEME pattern at the resolution/dot clock/polarity and bandwidth that WinDAS calls for. Adjust the FBT pods until ALL the MEME pattern is on focus.