Achieva Shimian QH270| $400 IPS 2560x1440 Korean Monitor

I think the facepalm starts when u order from the distant sellers... I am not downing them, just there is obvious risk as many have stated. I love how the Asians in the Orient use the "dear" and "friend" like as if it were part of customer service tactics, hilarious.

I actually got a QX2700 LED from eBay.... arrived in 4 days, no problems so far, beautiful... the only super annoying thing is they have a cheap paper sticker on the upper right part of the frame, and it tears apart, unreal... now I gotta get like WD40 on this crap and remove it totally.. ugly white streak there now, PITA. I complained to them about that and they did apologize right away and said its not their fault but the manufacturer, which is totally valid, just venting.

But quality, colors, brightness, and performance are totally good for $380 shipped... did not test on any FPS, but totally fine for RTS and all design work for now.
 
Havent you contacted ebay?

As soon as its past the 45 day mark, ebay and paypal dont care. I tried for months. Its the same story I hear from other people who have issues with red-cap
 
Anyone had any luck using downsampling on one of these monitors? Trying to follow some simple guides to render at 3840x2160 and the downsample to the monitor's native res but no luck. Any help? thanks. Yamakasi catleap user here
 
So what is the official word? I'm reading some reports of people having them stop working and I'd like to invest in a new monitor soon, I really don't want to get a 1080p 27" monitor.
 
So what is the official word? I'm reading some reports of people having them stop working and I'd like to invest in a new monitor soon, I really don't want to get a 1080p 27" monitor.

These are (and always have been) a gamble. Everyone loves theirs until it fails. You could get lucky and have one that lasts for many years, or yours could develop some issue after a few months like many of the monitors mentioned in this thread.

On one hand, you can almost buy two of us these for the price of Dell's new 27" on sale. On the other hand, you may have to buy two (or more) of these to last as long as a new 27" from one of the big name companies.
 
These are (and always have been) a gamble. Everyone loves theirs until it fails. You could get lucky and have one that lasts for many years, or yours could develop some issue after a few months like many of the monitors mentioned in this thread.

On one hand, you can almost buy two of us these for the price of Dell's new 27" on sale. On the other hand, you may have to buy two (or more) of these to last as long as a new 27" from one of the big name companies.

I started to read about this Overlord Tempest, they are based in the US and sell A and A- monitors.. any word from people here? Overclock they seem to like them, it's about 369 for the 27" 1440.
 
The thing is in the past the Koreans were your only choice but now a variety of models have popped up with some support in the USA. The price difference is negligible so now it seems like its just a no brainer to grab a US based model unless there is a specific need you have and can only find in a Korean panel.

That said the failure rates on these do not appear to be high, but with any product some people are going to get lemons. I have owned a crossover since march without a problem, but most people are not going to waste time coming in here every day to say mine is working fine. Back when I bought mine there was no option for a US based seller. That said I would still get the crossover again unless a US seller starts shipping the nicer stands.
 
I think the facepalm starts when u order from the distant sellers... I am not downing them, just there is obvious risk as many have stated. I love how the Asians in the Orient use the "dear" and "friend" like as if it were part of customer service tactics, hilarious.

I actually got a QX2700 LED from eBay.... arrived in 4 days, no problems so far, beautiful... the only super annoying thing is they have a cheap paper sticker on the upper right part of the frame, and it tears apart, unreal... now I gotta get like WD40 on this crap and remove it totally.. ugly white streak there now, PITA. I complained to them about that and they did apologize right away and said its not their fault but the manufacturer, which is totally valid, just venting.

But quality, colors, brightness, and performance are totally good for $380 shipped... did not test on any FPS, but totally fine for RTS and all design work for now.

For the money you saved on the monitor you are really going to complain about removing a sticker that takes 2 minutes to remove with an orange cleaner like goo gone? That seems pretty trivial.
 
I got a Korean ebay monitor when they first hit ebay and have had no issues for something like a year of almost daily 5-10 hour use at the office. 0 dead pixels.

The cheapest ones have horrible stands and it did not come with a dual link DVI, but I knew that ahead of time.
 
For the money you saved on the monitor you are really going to complain about removing a sticker that takes 2 minutes to remove with an orange cleaner like goo gone? That seems pretty trivial.

If it truly were 2 minutes and I had a cleaner I would not complain... but I had to order some more DW40 to do this since I needed that anyways... and since I am using the monitor now, I have to set it up so I dont drop DW40 all over and get it on the screen or whatever else here on my desk, and then catch all the particles that fall off.....etc., etc... Its not like a pen I can just take to the sink and clean it.... I.e., it is not a 2 minute job and is one of the most annoying jobs, all bec the manufacturer thinks no one will mind there is a big ugly useless sticker on an otherwise clean black frame, or doesnt care.

This just reminds me of all the tennis racquet manufacturers who build tennis racquets and couldnt care less about how hard they make them to string them, etc... but whatever, it is what it is, just a minor rant thats all... sorry if this sounds trivial to you, I guess u enjoy remedial labor due to other people's lack of care or knowledge... I just dont.
 
If it truly were 2 minutes and I had a cleaner I would not complain... but I had to order some more DW40 to do this since I needed that anyways... and since I am using the monitor now, I have to set it up so I dont drop DW40 all over and get it on the screen or whatever else here on my desk, and then catch all the particles that fall off.....etc., etc... Its not like a pen I can just take to the sink and clean it.... I.e., it is not a 2 minute job and is one of the most annoying jobs, all bec the manufacturer thinks no one will mind there is a big ugly useless sticker on an otherwise clean black frame, or doesnt care.

This just reminds me of all the tennis racquet manufacturers who build tennis racquets and couldnt care less about how hard they make them to string them, etc... but whatever, it is what it is, just a minor rant thats all... sorry if this sounds trivial to you, I guess u enjoy remedial labor due to other people's lack of care or knowledge... I just dont.

I wouldn't use WD-40 on plastic. It's a oil based lubricant, not a solvent. You would be better served getting a citrus based cleaner like Goo Gone and using that. Hell, you can use Goo Gone to remove the oily mess that WD-40 will leave behind.
 
If it truly were 2 minutes and I had a cleaner I would not complain... but I had to order some more DW40 to do this since I needed that anyways... and since I am using the monitor now, I have to set it up so I dont drop DW40 all over and get it on the screen or whatever else here on my desk, and then catch all the particles that fall off.....etc., etc... Its not like a pen I can just take to the sink and clean it.... I.e., it is not a 2 minute job and is one of the most annoying jobs, all bec the manufacturer thinks no one will mind there is a big ugly useless sticker on an otherwise clean black frame, or doesnt care.

This just reminds me of all the tennis racquet manufacturers who build tennis racquets and couldnt care less about how hard they make them to string them, etc... but whatever, it is what it is, just a minor rant thats all... sorry if this sounds trivial to you, I guess u enjoy remedial labor due to other people's lack of care or knowledge... I just dont.

LOL
 
I wouldn't use WD-40 on plastic. It's a oil based lubricant, not a solvent. You would be better served getting a citrus based cleaner like Goo Gone and using that. Hell, you can use Goo Gone to remove the oily mess that WD-40 will leave behind.

Ah I was kinda afraid of that... but it seemed WD40 was a prevalent solution from my online research and no one mentioned it would be crappy on plastic. Not sure how often I will use goo gone thing, so I'll just try this with the little WD40 pen, rub off the crap, and use some generic cleaner to wipe the oil off. Its not like I touch that part of the monitor so after I get the white stuff off, I dont care what solvent I used as long as it does the job, as long as it doesnt make the black plastic white or eat away at it like acid.
 
I have had my Achieva Shimian QH270-Lite (purchased from Dream-Seller on eBay) for about 2 months now. I need help with a problem recovering from sleep mode.

It functioned 100% perfectly for the first 45 days or so, but during the past few weeks its ability to recover from sleep mode has deteriorated. I now get a rapidly flashing pink light if I put the computer in sleep mode or if windows 8 power management puts the monitor into standby mode.

Basically any kind of standby mode makes the monitor fail to turn back on. At this point even if I turn off the entire computer and monitor and unplug the power from both and then plug it all back in, it still won't turn on. This is where it gets frustrating. I wouldn't be so annoyed if I could just turn it all off and back on again.

It used to happen only once in a couple days, now it happens every single time the monitor goes into power saving/sleep mode. I have learned that the flashing pink light means "your monitor is not coming on again".

I have somewhat avoided the problem by turning off power save features completely on my monitors in windows. (I don't want to do this because I want my other monitors to last). And then I have it use a blank screen for a screen saver. This keeps the monitor on. But if I have to turn off my computer this can cause it to not start up again.

I am wondering if anyone else has a knowledge of this behavior and what is the best workaround/fix for it. I realize that this monitor is not an A+ quality control model due to its price from Korea. I am otherwise very happy with its quality. But obviously not being able to turn it on is somewhat of a large problem lol :/

And for the mention, the display quality is perfect. No dead pixels. The picture itself is gorgeous-- when I can get it to turn on. :confused:

Right now after much unplugging and fiddling with windows display settings I can get it to turn back on. (Still figuring out what makes it work-- I'll post a detailed series of steps if I can figure it out). Sometimes it takes me 10 minutes to do it. I do not have it worked out to a science yet. So it's a bit of a chance game. And I'm worried if it will get worse and I'll never be able to turn it on at some point.


Please help if you have this happen to yours or you know what to do to fix/workaround it.
 
yet another red-cap update
"A year warranty is provided for all items we are selling"
"we accept returning a defective monitor and will pay return shipping fee, but we recommend buyers to check other external reasons possible(video card, connected cables, etc...)before sending back a monitor. because we always send all monitors with confidence by testing all before shipping.
we will send the return shipping fee and a full refund after checking the monitor on problem if it won't be working as soon as returned at our office"

recently:
Dear
as we mentioned , please confirm to pay the round shipping fee
and we will fix your monitor with achieva or sending another model with some fees

thank you
Sincerely yours
Red-Cap
 
Well their 120hz displays are just under $200 more than the other one so its really not that unexpected. Think about it from other angles what the premium for a 120hz panel over a 60hz, often about $200, so 60 over that for a niche custom made product seems expected. If no one buys them the price will drop so who knows wait and see.
 
I'm glad I took a look at this thread. I was really looking to purchase a 2560x1440 monitor, and was about to pull the trigger on the bay. But after seeing the mass problems people are having after just a couple months of use... I think I'll just stay with my 1080p monitor for the time being until prices come down.
 
LOL....90% of the problems are from Cheap azz people that buy these monitors and think they are going to be 100% perfect.....I have had mine for about 6 months and run it 20 hours a day..some times it is on for a week straight......NO PROBLEMS......

PULL THE TRIGGER.......worried ? ? Then buy the Square trade or what ever they call it thru ebay.about $69 extra

Crossover....Bought from GREEN-SUM ( EBAY-SELLER) has a 99.4% rating w/ over 10K sold


AP514
 
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Is the EFL-2202W power adapter the correct one to replace a failed power adapter for this monitor? Thanks in advance!

To update: the EFL-2202W is the correct adapter as listed on various forums, however, the seller I originally purchased it from (ebayer - utopiadreamglobal) is trying to sell adapters with the wrong pin-out as the EFL-2202W on ebay listing it as the EFL-2202W adapter. Just a heads up to anyone needing to get one, should avoid that seller.
 
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Just looking around and noticed the 120hz.net 120hz+ models are now up to $720 ... ouch. :eek: (out of stock too btw).

That is some serious price hiking.
 
Good to know bluevenom...thanks for the post....and info on the Powersupply Replacement.



On a side note I guess these Koreans are Jacking up the prices big time ?? Is that why this thread is slowing down ?
Got my Crossover and Squaretrade(ebay) $369 total on Aug-Sept of 2012...wonder what the prices are now ?


AP514
 
Maybe they have some other OC models buried in their model search? Or are there some ebay listings that have a drastically reduced price compared to the main site?

http://ww120hz.biz/monitors/

Yamakasi Catleap Q270 "2B Extreme OC" $719.99

.
 
oh shit thats my bad

I was looking at overlord

which is some dudes from 120hz.net I thought


720 is crazy
 
I bought a Crossover 5 months ago from bigclothcraft. Last week I bought a 15ft 24AWG CL2 Dual Link DVI-D Cable to replace the short 5ft 28AWG that came with the monitor. Not sure if it's related but a few days later the led back lighting on the left side went out. It's been out for 3 days aside from a brief 10 minutes where it turned back on before quickly flickering out again. Kicking myself for not buying the square trade warranty. Is there anything I can do to fix it?
 
have you tried disconnecting everything letting it sit for some time then reconnecting it all? What about trying to blow a cooling fan over the back to see if something is overheating. And of course you did try putting the old cable back on right?
 
Yea old cables back on, I'll give unplugging it for a bit a shot

edit: No dice
 
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My Crossover has been running fine since I got it 2012-07:ish. Almost at the point where I can say I got my money out of it.
 
Ok, so I have been out of the game for a little bit as far as keeping up with these screens, but I just got a new job and can finally afford one of these things. So I just wondering things like who is the go to seller now (still green-sum?), is any one manufacture better then an other now, can I still get a multi input screen with temped glass?
thanks dudes.
 
Ah I was kinda afraid of that... but it seemed WD40 was a prevalent solution from my online research and no one mentioned it would be crappy on plastic. Not sure how often I will use goo gone thing, so I'll just try this with the little WD40 pen, rub off the crap, and use some generic cleaner to wipe the oil off. Its not like I touch that part of the monitor so after I get the white stuff off, I dont care what solvent I used as long as it does the job, as long as it doesnt make the black plastic white or eat away at it like acid.

WD40 is not an OIL based solvent..IT is WATER BASED..I used to work at a detail shop in college and we used to use it all the time to remove bugs from car bumpers..I am talking high end Audis, BMWs, etc..Never once damaged the paint (again, its water based)..I have used it for 15 years on various things, and never had a problem..It's a wonderful product that can be used for tons of things..
 
WD40 is not an OIL based solvent..IT is WATER BASED..I used to work at a detail shop in college and we used to use it all the time to remove bugs from car bumpers..I am talking high end Audis, BMWs, etc..Never once damaged the paint (again, its water based)..I have used it for 15 years on various things, and never had a problem..It's a wonderful product that can be used for tons of things..

WD40 is OIL BASED. The long-term active ingredient is a non-volatile, viscous oil which remains on the surface, providing lubrication and protection from moisture. If you do not believe me then check the MSDS and it shows that mineral oil is used as a light lubricating oil. Also WD-40 stands for Water-Displacement 40th formula.
 
WD40 is OIL BASED. The long-term active ingredient is a non-volatile, viscous oil which remains on the surface, providing lubrication and protection from moisture. If you do not believe me then check the MSDS and it shows that mineral oil is used as a light lubricating oil. Also WD-40 stands for Water-Displacement 40th formula.

I stand corrected..It is however safe to use on painted surfaces (as I mentioned) along with 99% of various types of plastics to remove gunk, adhesive etc..
 
Update

I purchased a tempered glass shimian from red-cap nearly 7months ago. shortly after getting the screen, it died. Blacklight on, no picture.
red-cap refused to honor the warranty and after fighting with him for 6 months, I paid $150 to send the screen back for repair.

Got the repaired screen today, aside from the glass having 100x more dust behind it then before, its still dead.

I have a working identical screen and even disconnecting one and swamping in the new screen, same shit.
 
Update

I purchased a tempered glass shimian from red-cap nearly 7months ago. shortly after getting the screen, it died. Blacklight on, no picture.
red-cap refused to honor the warranty and after fighting with him for 6 months, I paid $150 to send the screen back for repair.

Got the repaired screen today, aside from the glass having 100x more dust behind it then before, its still dead.

I have a working identical screen and even disconnecting one and swamping in the new screen, same shit.

Wow, that is terrible! The risks of buying these monitors is certainly much higher than going with a local vendor. Does anyone have any tips on calibrating these monitors? I have an i1 Display Pro, and you are pretty limited without RGB controls on the monitor.
 
Second Crossover arrived. Still no issues.
Not quite sure what is B-grade about these. I can't spot dead/bright pixels.
 
Ok, so I have been out of the game for a little bit as far as keeping up with these screens, but I just got a new job and can finally afford one of these things. So I just wondering things like who is the go to seller now (still green-sum?), is any one manufacture better then an other now, can I still get a multi input screen with temped glass?
thanks dudes.
Like Gatecrasher3, I too have been on the sidelines watching this thread off and on since June of last year, and am finally ready to pull the trigger on one of them. Noted a few posts up that the prices may have jumped a bit, did we miss the good deals last year, should have bought em cheap when we had the chance, or have new models been introduced that add value to the higher prices? I'd prefer not having to go thru the 210 pages of posts to get up to speed on these, can someone who has been following this closely for a while post a cliff notes version of the current situation on them, models, pricing and currently recommended suppliers? Thanks!
 
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