24" Widescreen CRT (FW900) From Ebay arrived,Comments.

@zzcool

Hm, is the first start without display connected? It is right to see that the letters on the no signal screen are hidding and are away for a moment? and this "flahes" are in green and only one time if you start? and the monitor dont fail to start or or have you to start it mutiple times to show a picture?

also i dont think a monitor can damaged and is working not right if you are in near of the north pol... Then every device would not work and sony had written that to the manual...

Have you ever tested in a other house by a friend for example who has a stable and other power source for testing?
 
@zzcool

Hm, is the first start without display connected? It is right to see that the letters on the no signal screen are hidding and are away for a moment? and this "flahes" are in green and only one time if you start? and the monitor dont fail to start or or have you to start it mutiple times to show a picture?

also i dont think a monitor can damaged and is working not right if you are in near of the north pol... Then every device would not work and sony had written that to the manual...

Have you ever tested in a other house by a friend for example who has a stable and other power source for testing?

well the pc had put the display in standby (while the monitor was off as i still have it set to go in standby just for safety incase i some day forget to turn the monitor off though right now it goes in standby without the monitor being affected)) so when i started the monitor it had no signal as the pc was in standby towards the display so i moved the move for the picture to show

i am happy with this monitor but i can't be happy knwing there might be something wrong with it once theres nothing wrong with it i will open it up and peel off the antiglare and finally have a fw900 just like my old that that i already was very happy with

but having these problems worries me

if i knew there was nothing wrong with it i would be happy i have for example plans to buy an hd fury hopefully that could fix the phosphor lag

but i want to be certain theres absolutely nothing wrong with it and if it is that it dosn't affect the picture tube itself so i can get it repaired knowing my picture tube is untouched by this

i am trying to be calm about this i really am but just by writing this made me freak out so much money i actually spent on this i hope i HOPE that the monitor can be easily fixed
 
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Yeah... But the flashes at begin showing clearly that something is wrong with the monitor i think... But one time more i think it should be only bad caps problem. i think the bad caps force the psu power platine to produce bad voltages... and maybe this bad caps are more needed because of your different voltages from your power source. also i think the convergence which is like you say bad (if you see colors around the windows it is very, very bad!) is because the devie which is for convergence dont get the right voltage,,,

I have a used one and vito said it is maybe end of live, but my convergence is nearly perfect if i trust the testpatern... And your one was NEW and was calibrated from vito! The convergence, black level, and all other things should be much times better as mine! I dont think the tube is damaged or something, i think realy that your power platine in specific a little transistor or bad cap is damaged (maybe was damaged befor but no one noticed it) and the bad performance of your monitor is a result of wrong voltages!

I only underline that from my experience i had a PSU which was brand new for a old PC! And this one was brand new in a box but never used for years! the PSU was damaged because the caps on the power platine were dry out! So the voltages are realy wrong. I think that could be the case. But i never opened this monitor... If someone can help us here with details and informations than it is vito!

@vito are normal caps like the one which are used for years on normal mainboards in the PSU of the monitor? This should be easy to change if they are not to strange soldered... Also this caps are easy to get if they are nomal used caps... and if this should be NOT THE PROBLEM, you will NOT NOTICE THAT YOU HAVE CHANGED THIS CAPS. Because of that you dont have to be fairfull that if you change them and it was not the problem your monitor could be realy damged. Also from my experience bad caps related problems are mostly temporary and not permanent.

@vito how i can look how the emision of my tube is and what do you mean with that? what does a high emission of a tube? exist a way to undo this emission? Also would be nice if you could answere to my questions some posts before about need of gamma correction with OS software or graphic drivers. are here people which dont do that and have not crushed blacks? I have set my brightness now to suggested 30% and contrast 90% of the sRGB mode of OSD and used this image -> http://www.simpelfilter.de/farbmanagement/images/gammapyramide-rgb-flicker05.gif i have changed the gamma values so, that i nearly not notice the change of this image, than gamma should be right! but this settings are impossible to get with only brightness settings or contrast, only with software gamma correction. and now i have good blacks in movies and games but sometimes very dark scenes anymore where i have crushed blacks... is that normal? Also i see with right gamma now very much details of games which i never noticed... is that also normal? this more details are nice but it feels "not right"...
 
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Yeah... But the flashes at begin showing clearly that something is wrong with the monitor i think... But one time more i think it should be only bad caps problem. i think the bad caps force the psu power platine to produce bad voltages... and maybe this bad caps are more needed because of your different voltages from your power source. also i think the convergence which is like you say bad (if you see colors around the windows it is very, very bad!) is because the devie which is for convergence dont get the right voltage,,,

I have a used one and vito said it is maybe end of live, but my convergence is nearly perfect if i trust the testpatern... And your one was NEW and was calibrated from vito! The convergence, black level, and all other things should be much times better as mine! I dont think the tube is damaged or something, i think realy that your power platine in specific a little transistor or bad cap is damaged (maybe was damaged befor but no one noticed it) and the bad performance of your monitor is a result of wrong voltages!

I only underline that from my experience i had a PSU which was brand new for a old PC! And this one was brand new in a box but never used for years! the PSU was damaged because the caps on the power platine were dry out! So the voltages are realy wrong. I think that could be the case. But i never opened this monitor... If someone can help us here with details and informations than it is vito!

@vito are normal caps like the one which are used for years on normal mainboards in the PSU of the monitor? This should be easy to change if they are not to strange soldered... Also this caps are easy to get if they are nomal used caps... and if this should be NOT THE PROBLEM, you will NOT NOTICE THAT YOU HAVE CHANGED THIS CAPS. Because of that you dont have to be fairfull that if you change them and it was not the problem your monitor could be realy damged. Also from my experience bad caps related problems are mostly temporary and not permanent.

@vito how i can look how the emision of my tube is and what do you mean with that? what does a high emission of a tube? exist a way to undo this emission? Also would be nice if you could answere to my questions some posts before about need of gamma correction with OS software or graphic drivers. are here people which dont do that and have not crushed blacks? I have set my brightness now to suggested 30% and contrast 90% of the sRGB mode of OSD and used this image -> http://www.simpelfilter.de/farbmanagement/images/gammapyramide-rgb-flicker05.gif i have changed the gamma values so, that i nearly not notice the change of this image, than gamma should be right! but this settings are impossible to get with only brightness settings or contrast, only with software gamma correction. and now i have good blacks in movies and games but sometimes very dark scenes anymore where i have crushed blacks... is that normal? Also i see with right gamma now very much details of games which i never noticed... is that also normal? this more details are nice but it feels "not right"...

heres a view pictures on convergence

169454_10151222344666668_843481514_o.jpg


396771_10151222344936668_981869421_n.jpg


665520_10151222343306668_599536063_o.jpg


135239_10151222344756668_384465137_o.jpg


are they normal?
 
If i see it right that you have "red borders" on some windows than i would be say its not normal...

Google for nokia monitor test and do the convergence test. it will display a testpatern and then make a picture of one area with this testpatern and post it again here. if all is right this testpatern should look consistent and even. but i dont think that is the case.

Hm... I think we dont make any progress. we need the information from vito if this monitor use caps and which one and if they are likely to dry out and if it is possible that this errors could be because of the wrong voltages produced because of this bad caps. if vito say yes you can buy them, change them and than look if all is good. but firstly we need more informations from vito. dont open it first please. if vito dont answer anymore because of no time or working to much than i will look for my monitor at weekend and open it. (i want also to change the bad caps if i have some and will look if that will give me a better picture or fix the geometrie problem at coldstart). Have ever someone changed the caps here?

I had many tft the last years which were damaged only because bad caps and after changing them they were like new. but with tfts the problem was that they dont power on if bad caps were the problem. after changing them i got a picture. i dont know if this little errors of this crt are bad caps related. maybe vito can tell us something here. i think he had much more monitors of this type as any other here and knows nearly all errors and damages of them. :)
 
If i see it right that you have "red borders" on some windows than i would be say its not normal...

Google for nokia monitor test and do the convergence test. it will display a testpatern and then make a picture of one area with this testpatern and post it again here. if all is right this testpatern should look consistent and even. but i dont think that is the case.

Hm... I think we dont make any progress. we need the information from vito if this monitor use caps and which one and if they are likely to dry out and if it is possible that this errors could be because of the wrong voltages produced because of this bad caps. if vito say yes you can buy them, change them and than look if all is good. but firstly we need more informations from vito. dont open it first please. if vito dont answer anymore because of no time or working to much than i will look for my monitor at weekend and open it. (i want also to change the bad caps if i have some and will look if that will give me a better picture or fix the geometrie problem at coldstart). Have ever someone changed the caps here?

I had many tft the last years which were damaged only because bad caps and after changing them they were like new. but with tfts the problem was that they dont power on if bad caps were the problem. after changing them i got a picture. i dont know if this little errors of this crt are bad caps related. maybe vito can tell us something here. i think he had much more monitors of this type as any other here and knows nearly all errors and damages of them. :)

here is another picture of the convergence pattern

https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/52684_10151222341521668_1259224763_o.jpg

and

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/134956_10151222341671668_897244109_o.jpg
 
WOW, whats that?

You could be happy because this is better as my results! You only have a little bit problems in the right corner. But how is than that possible? You have colered edges which should be a convergence problem but your test results for convergence tests are really nice... but maybe someone other can say something to this results?

How is your brightness and contrast at this time? And you are allowed to change something with the OSD or no? because your one is calibrated via windas right? have you done image restauration? i think that will deastroy the whle calibration or? might be interested what for a brightness and contrast suggested by sRGB mode. But maybe it is better dont select this maybe it destroy your calibration?

Also how long need your monitor to warmup until you have a final black value and is your geometrie changing in until this time? what for a manucactoring year is your monitor?
 
WOW, whats that?

You could be happy because this is better as my results! You only have a little bit problems in the right corner. But how is than that possible? You have colered edges which should be a convergence problem but your test results for convergence tests are really nice... but maybe someone other can say something to this results?

How is your brightness and contrast at this time? And you are allowed to change something with the OSD or no? because your one is calibrated via windas right? have you done image restauration? i think that will deastroy the whle calibration or? might be interested what for a brightness and contrast suggested by sRGB mode. But maybe it is better dont select this maybe it destroy your calibration?

Also how long need your monitor to warmup until you have a final black value and is your geometrie changing in until this time? what for a manucactoring year is your monitor?

i have not touched color restore

if you hold down the menu button for a few seconds it says manufactured 2002-34

never knew you could do that i just randomely help it down to see if anything happens and it did

contrast of 100 brightness is 31

convergence results show alot of lines not perfectly connected i guess thats normal? where they are abit away from eachother

and yes i changed geomtry settings abit for the picture to fit

srgb says brightness 20 contrast 89 which makes the picture really dark not usable

the monitor came set on the preset easy color option at 9300k color temp (i told vito i prefer this temp so maybe he changed it for me)

i am running on 107. 2KHz / 85 hz
1920 1200

with a modified fw900 driver that was mentiond in this thread and it works perfectly fine in windows 7
 
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ok. mine 2000 - 48. wow i dont knowed that trick ;)

i allways look behind the back of the monitor.

I have 90% contrast and brightness 30%. sRGB mode suggested me this from OSD. Hm.

Hm, then i have something with my eyes... i dont see that so clearly but from a fast look over it it looks good for me. i think it is more a problem if some lines are very out of consistent. if many are only very little out of consistent it should be not a problem. my results are more bad i would say and i never see red borders or something! The conclusion should be that this red borders are not convergence problems! This would say that your tube is ok... or it is realy damaged ... But maybe only the bad voltages like i mention... hm...

How long need your monitor to warmup final?

"srgb says brightness 20 contrast 89 which makes the picture really dark not usable"

yes! first time i did change mine values to srgb suggested i thinked the same thing -> "to dark". But my eyes adapt on this! And finaly i thinked it is right! But the crushed blacks (details in black areas are gone) was terible and someone told me that i have to use gamma correction in the OS which fw900 dont support in the OSD. Only then the areas are not to dark! Are you using this gammma correction too and vito suggested that to you? http://www.simpelfilter.de/farbmanagement/images/gammapyramide-rgb-flicker05.gif if this image is flickering very much and the colors are not nearly the same on both sides, your gamma is not 2,2 and that is not right. would be interesting...

The driver should be right... i am using linux, i dont need this driver :)

Ok, the color temp is a think how you like it. but if you want to test the 65k temp, give your eyes some time to adopt to it. if today i say 93k it is to blue for me. its all perspective ;)
 
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ok. mine 2000 - 48. wow i dont knowed that trick ;)

i allways look behind the back of the monitor.

I have 90% contrast and brightness 30%. sRGB mode suggested me this from OSD. Hm.

Hm, then i have something with my eyes... i dont see that so clearly but from a fast look over it it looks good for me. i think it is more a problem if some lines are very out of consistent. if many are only very little out of consistent it should be not a problem. my results are more bad i would say and i never see red borders or something! The conclusion should be that this red borders are not convergence problems! This would say that your tube is ok... or it is realy damaged ... But maybe only the bad voltages like i mention... hm...

How long need your monitor to warmup final?

i don't know how long it needs to wam up as i have never counted i could do that tommorow though
 
Ok. i would say round about 25 minutes for mine for all is right and finaly. no one could say if it is normal that it needs to warmup. i wanted to know if it was needed were the monitor was new and never used. and you can give me the answer, because your monitor is brand new from vito like he say this right?

maybe we should make a wikipage only for fw900 lovers with all often asked questions. i were happy to do that :D

then here we can discuss and all knowledge is central in the wiki. but someone had to read all the complete thread and collect all content and answers. i noticed for me as noob in monitor calibration and specific in fw900 it was hard to understand all and i dont know all until now.

EDIT: http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=952788&page=404

Look for the post from poordevil! Have you RED flashes until its warmedup? Maybe we should write him if his monitor is dead now or still happy with it or maybe he has fixed that and if so we can ask how?
 
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Ok. i would say round about 25 minutes for mine for all is right and finaly. no one could say if it is normal that it needs to warmup. i wanted to know if it was needed were the monitor was new and never used. and you can give me the answer, because your monitor is brand new from vito like he say this right?

maybe we should make a wikipage only for fw900 lovers with all often asked questions. i were happy to do that :D

then here we can discuss and all knowledge is central in the wiki. but someone had to read all the complete thread and collect all content and answers. i noticed for me as noob in monitor calibration and specific in fw900 it was hard to understand all and i dont know all until now.

EDIT: http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=952788&page=404

Look for the post from poordevil! Have you RED flashes until its warmedup? Maybe we should write him if his monitor is dead now or still happy with it or maybe he has fixed that and if so we can ask how?

not red but green and just about 2 times then it stops so it lasts for less then 5 seconds
 
hm but it is even to the problem with the red flashes... But it cant be possible if the screen is new. i dont think that shipping has damaged something like it is like it is old. the only thing which can be old and damaged and never used are caps were bad.

i will sleep now. tomorow look for a friend please where you can test the monitor, or on a different pc. and look if the colored borders are also here. and if the flashed are existing on a other pc. but like you wrote they are existent also if your pc is not connected. hm maybe an cable is not right throught the shipping... i will open my on weekend and make me a picture which could be the problem. but vito should realy answere here again for information which could be wrong. i mean if he has seen hundrets of this monitors he know likely all of the faults that they could have.

EDIT: Is the gamma test image flickering on your monitor? much or not realy visible?
 
hm but it is even to the problem with the red flashes... But it cant be possible if the screen is new. i dont think that shipping has damaged something like it is like it is old. the only thing which can be old and damaged and never used are caps were bad.

i will sleep now. tomorow look for a friend please where you can test the monitor, or on a different pc. and look if the colored borders are also here. and if the flashed are existing on a other pc. but like you wrote they are existent also if your pc is not connected. hm maybe an cable is not right throught the shipping... i will open my on weekend and make me a picture which could be the problem. but vito should realy answere here again for information which could be wrong. i mean if he has seen hundrets of this monitors he know likely all of the faults that they could have.

EDIT: Is the gamma test image flickering on your monitor? much or not realy visible?

i tried that test and it moves back and forth
 
Than your gamma is wrong. something what so tell me can only fixed with drivers gamma correction. test it one time with powerstrip or nvidia drivers control panel and set gamma correction until this flickering is mostly away as you can. and then eventually look for games. black will not change only midle tone colors. also maybe you can lowering overall brightness then also.
 
i don't know how long it needs to wam up as i have never counted i could do that tommorow though

DID YOU READ THE INSTRUCTIONS & GUIDELINES THAT WERE SENT TO YOU (BOTH VIA EMAIL AND INSIDE THE MONITOR)??? Despite asking you repeatedly if you did, obviously you didn't!

"THE MONITOR NEEDS TO WARM UP 45-60 MINUTES BEFORE JUDGING THE IMAGE QUALITY, AND BEFORE MAKING ANY ADJUSTMENTS..."

Please re-read and understand the guidelines and instruction I sent you... It will eliminate 99.9% of the problems you say you are having...

Hope this helps...

Sincerely,

Unkle Vito!
 
yes it works perfectly fine once the flashes are gone they usually take 3-5 seconds then it stops and it works fine for the rest of the day without any problems showing the extreme blurryiness in text also goes away after a short while

the quality of the image it produces is ok it has pretty noticable convergence issues where you clearly see edges of windows being multicolord but the colors themselves seem to be fine i am not extremely happy with it's brightness but i know that removing the antiglare will make it amazing so thats something i really want to do

blackness is fine but not as amazing as people made it out to be

i have contrast set to 100 and brightness to 31

here is a new video i recorded when starting it up from cold (it had been off for 12 hours meaning it started up from cold)

http://www.speedyshare.com/3Y72Q/fw900-problem.mp4

As you know from our lengthy discussions we had, you mentioned that you were comparing the image of this CRT to an LCD, and you have been frustrated that it will not "match that quality of image, specially the blacks, geometry and convergence"...

As I indicated to you several times, comparing the GDM-FW900, which is strictly a graphics monitor to an LCD (you mentioned that many times over), is like comparing apples to oranges. I indicated that then this monitor was not for you, but you insisted. Once again (as we discussed at length on emails before you made the purchase), if your eyes are accustomed to the image, brightness, contrast, geometry, convergence, and color depth of an LCD, A CRT IS NOT FOR YOU!!!

Convergence, geometry, brightness & contrast adjustments are a tedious process that requires patience; and these parameters must be adjusted to the signal, frequency, and bandwidth that your video board is sending to the monitor. Again, it becoming pretty obvious to me that you have totally ignored the guidelines & instructions that were sent to you both inside the monitor and via email. Anything among bad/cheap unshielded cables, bad/faculty video board, bad video drives, EMF interference, etc can and will affect the image quality.

Lastly, and I will rest my case: THERE WAS NOTHING WRONG WITH THE MONITOR BEFORE IT WAS SHIPPED TO YOU! I have videos and pictures of the stunning images it produced as overwhelming proof and evidence, and this unit was working incredibly amazing. Just like I mentioned it to you in my last email, I made a big mistake by selling it to you and even shipping it overseas, and I should have kept it. Brand New GDM-FW900 are extremely rare and hard to come by. I do regret it... Believe me, I do regret it...

Hope this helps...

Sincerely,

Unkle Vito!
 
Thanks Unkle Vito, for the explanation of "Ghosting/Phosphor-lag". I did not know that the videodrivers could be an issue of that.

Also, please note that bended/broken/missing pins from the cable plugs can cause image problems, and ghosting is one of them... Look at the pins and make sure none are bended/broken/missing before connecting to the video board and the monitor.

Hope this helps...

Sincerely,

Unkle Vito!
 
Yeah... But the flashes at begin showing clearly that something is wrong with the monitor i think... But one time more i think it should be only bad caps problem. i think the bad caps force the psu power platine to produce bad voltages... and maybe this bad caps are more needed because of your different voltages from your power source. also i think the convergence which is like you say bad (if you see colors around the windows it is very, very bad!) is because the devie which is for convergence dont get the right voltage,,,

I have a used one and vito said it is maybe end of live, but my convergence is nearly perfect if i trust the testpatern... And your one was NEW and was calibrated from vito! The convergence, black level, and all other things should be much times better as mine! I dont think the tube is damaged or something, i think realy that your power platine in specific a little transistor or bad cap is damaged (maybe was damaged befor but no one noticed it) and the bad performance of your monitor is a result of wrong voltages!

I only underline that from my experience i had a PSU which was brand new for a old PC! And this one was brand new in a box but never used for years! the PSU was damaged because the caps on the power platine were dry out! So the voltages are realy wrong. I think that could be the case. But i never opened this monitor... If someone can help us here with details and informations than it is vito!

@vito are normal caps like the one which are used for years on normal mainboards in the PSU of the monitor? This should be easy to change if they are not to strange soldered... Also this caps are easy to get if they are nomal used caps... and if this should be NOT THE PROBLEM, you will NOT NOTICE THAT YOU HAVE CHANGED THIS CAPS. Because of that you dont have to be fairfull that if you change them and it was not the problem your monitor could be realy damged. Also from my experience bad caps related problems are mostly temporary and not permanent.

@vito how i can look how the emision of my tube is and what do you mean with that? what does a high emission of a tube? exist a way to undo this emission? Also would be nice if you could answere to my questions some posts before about need of gamma correction with OS software or graphic drivers. are here people which dont do that and have not crushed blacks? I have set my brightness now to suggested 30% and contrast 90% of the sRGB mode of OSD and used this image -> http://www.simpelfilter.de/farbmanagement/images/gammapyramide-rgb-flicker05.gif i have changed the gamma values so, that i nearly not notice the change of this image, than gamma should be right! but this settings are impossible to get with only brightness settings or contrast, only with software gamma correction. and now i have good blacks in movies and games but sometimes very dark scenes anymore where i have crushed blacks... is that normal? Also i see with right gamma now very much details of games which i never noticed... is that also normal? this more details are nice but it feels "not right"...

QUESTION@Vito: are normal caps like the one which are used for years on normal mainboards in the PSU of the monitor? A: I do not understand what specifically you are asking... Caps do not go bad if they are not being used. They need to be energized, they need to store energy, they need to be on for malfunctions to occur. Cold soldering, evident in older PCB (printed circuit boards) are easy to spot and easy to fix. Now, are the caps on Jonathan's monitor bad? I seriously doubt it very much. We torture tested the unit five days straight, performed Sony factory calibration & adjustments and ran all Sony factory tests on it, and it was 99.8% on target. Like I told Jonathan, once the unit left my hands and was shipped, I do not know what happened, who opened it, who made adjustments, or what was done on it. I send him proof that it was impeccable and amazingly functional before I put it inside the box (standard operating procedure with all my monitors)....


QUESTION@Vito: how i can look how the emision of my tube is and what do you mean with that? what does a high emission of a tube? exist a way to undo this emission? A: In order to measure the emission of a CRT, you need special instrumentation. I use both the Sencore CR7000 and the CR70. A high emission of a CRT means that it has what we call "juice" in it, it has life, it can reproduce high luminance, it will be bright. A low emission tube it will be "dim", not bright, it will have low luminance (evident when a white point balance adjustment is performed), and consequently it will be at the end of its life.

Gamma correction is a lengthy topic, and it can be very technical. I have discussed in one posting in this forum. Playing around with the color settings of the monitor and the video board just because the image "looks good" in your eyes it is not the way to go. You need to perform the required white point balance adjustment and color calibration at a certain target point (D50, D65, D93, or custom) and at a specific color space (Abode RGB, sRGB), rely on the instruments which take the readings and then make the proper adjustments to the gains/bias/brightness/contrast of the monitor based on instrument measurements. Gamma correction and adjustment depending on your preference (1.80, 2.00, 2.20) are made while performing the calibration. Gamma correction of 1.80 (default of the Mac OS) tends to display brighter images while a gamma correction of 2.20 (default of the Windows OS) tends to display darker images.

Ultimately, after the calibration process is successfully completed and the image is displayed on a properly calibrated monitor... Beauty is in the Eye of the Beholder.

Hope this helps...

Sincerely,

Unkle Vito!
 
first and foremost: make sure your FW900 actually uses a color profile that matches the color warmth you use the screen on. you need a seperate profile for D50,D65 or D93. You can install profiles in advanced options of your monitor under windows.. color managing options or the like. as uncle vito stated.. you first need to decide what target point (D50 etc, the 5k/6,5k/9,3k value) and color space you want to use.


use windows 7 calibration to set the values for gamma, brightness, contrast and color so you get the best possible image. USE WINDOWS 7 CALIBRATION. its standard on windows, so why NOT use it? i achieved best results i ever did with this simple tool. It also has cleartext..which improves they way text is displayed on your monitor. its good solution for CRT users to get rid of blurry text, especially those who use custom resolutions with custom refresh rates. you can use it without the calibration tool aswell. its called microsoft ClearType Text Tuner (Go to run (the file/program seeker), then type cttune.exe). It will pop up then.

here is how i did it, step by step.


1.

----->A.select the color warmth on your OSD. Its the menu you can access on your monitor ITSELF by pressing that button there. Browse it a bit and go to color options. 5k, 6,5k or 9k are the options. most users that don't want to fiddle around with custom settings do 6,5k and use a matching color profile for D65 cause 5k is too dark and 9k too blueish. Make sure your color prifle of the monitor matches the color warmth you set here. Driver packages from the net for windows 7 usually come with color profiles included. Do not understimate the importance of color profiles..... For example, you can get really weird colors if you unwrap a new monitor and leave it at default settings.

---->B.Or set a manual setting by adapting either the 5k,6,5k or9k values on the OSD itself. I DID EXACTLY THIS, got custom values from colorimeter tests some guy did. as uncle vito stated.. you first need to decide what target point (D50 etc, the 5k 6,5k 9,3k value) and color space you want to use. Only then you can start adjusting the monitor color settings on the OSD itself as stated below.


---------------------------->Make sure your monitor has warmed up half an hour before setting these custom values..... you can't adjust the following settings without the color restore function being available AFAIK. Go to the color temp option, and expert. Turn up the Red, Green, and Blue Color Gains all the way up to 100. Now go to the Color Bias and turn up the Red to 55, the Green down to 43, and the Blue Color Bias turn it up to 74. This will give the best, rich, most vibrant picture "possible" according to the guy who did test. note that values from a colorimeter vary for each CRT. but i tried it anyways, did color restore and windows 7 calibration after and result was WAY better then before color wise. I also get no "fault", flickering, colour changes and whatnot in all the test images i find in this thread or on the net after completing windows kalibration.

2. Set your monitor to 50 brightness 100 contrast and work from there.. or something like 23 brightness 89 contrast.

3. now do the color restore. you can only do this on the fw900 OSD after half an hour or more.. the monitor needs to warm up first.

note.. can't recall if i did step 1 first, or step 2, or step 3. think i did restore before the color profile adjustment, then adjusted values manually as mentioned above to see difference..then another restore.. just to make sure.. or cause i'm total noob on tech and i had no clue what i was doing. ;) Anyways, its really worth it.


3. use the windows 7 calibration program. reason i keep repeating this is BECAUSE IT ALSO TESTS GAMMA, which you can't set in your monitor's OSD. One note: this calibration program requires you to stare intensely at images while adjusting the brightness/contrast/gamma on your monitor's OSD, and also to use sliders to set colors right. It requires you to look a bit beyond infinity if you get my meaning... It can be straining for the eyes. But its worth it. Wrong settings can make your screen and games look like a big FLUO color kiddie program, which is straining for the eyes.

Most people think gamma is just brightness that you can set in ati/nvidea panel.. not true. Gamma plays role always, even when surfing..as the linked image in the posts above clearly shows.

http://www.simpelfilter.de/farbmanagement/images/gammapyramide-rgb-flicker05.gif

if this image is flickering very much and the colors are not nearly the same on both sides, your gamma is not 2,2 and that is not right. not that i know why or how.. :p Unkle Vito said it himself :) And it can't be resolved adjusting brightness/contrast.

i bet 80+% of all CRT will show significant flickering and color changes. My monitor does NOT after the above changes and steps.

So first gamma, then brightness, then contrast, then color settings. its the way most calibration programs work. so.. The result is that I get no "fault", flickering, colour changes and whatnot in all the test images i find in this thread or on the net after completing windows kalibration.






i'm a complete tech noob, but the result was there for me. Colors were lot more vibrant, i had no blue or red tinted image, and blacks levels were lot better then before. But as uncle Vito stated: its all user related preference. just wanted to share how i achieved better results step by step. try it out and see if it works for you.
 
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As you know from our lengthy discussions we had, you mentioned that you were comparing the image of this CRT to an LCD, and you have been frustrated that it will not "match that quality of image, specially the blacks, geometry and convergence"...

As I indicated to you several times, comparing the GDM-FW900, which is strictly a graphics monitor to an LCD (you mentioned that many times over), is like comparing apples to oranges. I indicated that then this monitor was not for you, but you insisted. Once again (as we discussed at length on emails before you made the purchase), if your eyes are accustomed to the image, brightness, contrast, geometry, convergence, and color depth of an LCD, A CRT IS NOT FOR YOU!!!

Convergence, geometry, brightness & contrast adjustments are a tedious process that requires patience; and these parameters must be adjusted to the signal, frequency, and bandwidth that your video board is sending to the monitor. Again, it becoming pretty obvious to me that you have totally ignored the guidelines & instructions that were sent to you both inside the monitor and via email. Anything among bad/cheap unshielded cables, bad/faculty video board, bad video drives, EMF interference, etc can and will affect the image quality.

Lastly, and I will rest my case: THERE WAS NOTHING WRONG WITH THE MONITOR BEFORE IT WAS SHIPPED TO YOU! I have videos and pictures of the stunning images it produced as overwhelming proof and evidence, and this unit was working incredibly amazing. Just like I mentioned it to you in my last email, I made a big mistake by selling it to you and even shipping it overseas, and I should have kept it. Brand New GDM-FW900 are extremely rare and hard to come by. I do regret it... Believe me, I do regret it...

Hope this helps...

Sincerely,

Unkle Vito!

you asked me if the monitor produced a good picture you asked me?

i do not care about convergence or anything like that only reason i wanted it was because of bright clear colors like my old one i have seen several flatscreens they are just not the same so no i do not want a flatscreen

i just answered your question i have no idea what to do right now it flashed even worse now when i started it

only reason i mentiond the convergence is because you asked me if it was producing a good picture so i answered it the best i could i tried to be as honest as i could about everything that is happening

as for warmup yes i read that text however i thought warmup wasn't set in stone in terms of how long it takes i thought the avg time everyone says is just that an average time but the actual time varied between monitors in that case he already knew how long it takes for them to warm up (YES i read it)

i am trying to be nice and calm about this but you asked me if it was producing a ok picture so i thought we were getting somewhere

i also regret buying it to be honest i tried to be calm and nice about this but this is just as hard for me as it is for you all the money i spent on it

if it wasn't making flashes everytime i started it then i would be happy i do not care about a few convergence problems i simply mentiond them all i care about is a bright and colorful picture and if my old fw900 could do it then this one can do it ALOT better thats the only thing i care about

i am giving up as theres no point anymore i tried to be calm about it i tried to be nice about it knowing what you did for me to get it but being told that you really regret it thats where i lose hope theres nothing that can be done right now

so i will be forced to just leave it and take care of it myself i don't want to offtopic this thread anymore but i am just as frustrated as you are but i tried to be nice and calm about it i even offered to remove everything i said in this thread as these things are supposed to be private and i apologized for taking it here and offered to remove it i tried to be nice and calm about it

i really did

now i am giving up and might when i have the strenght try to take care of this myself maybe take it to a repair shop sometime later i guess i have to disconnect it now and go back a 21 inch

so yeah i am just as sad and frustrated about this as you are i am not blaiming you for anything frankly i have no idea what happened too it only guess i have is that it got damaged in the shipping i do not think you sold me a broken monitor i never did i don't know what hapened to this monitor all i know is you would never send me a monitor you knew had problems that i do know but i don't know what happened too it my biggest guess is that it got damaged in the shipping

edit:it is actually getting worse now it flashed green again this time several minutes after starting it up cold i guess i am forced to take it down let it stand on the floor untill i have the strenght to do something
 
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zzcoool im sorry for you, and it hurts me inside to read this whole discussion with you and lagrunauer about your problem.

I dont want to reroll the whole problem discussion but as far as i understood it, the only problem you have is this flashing right?

Do you have tried to connect the power of the FW900 to an UPS. Because CRT's can be very sensitive to power-fluctuations.

Sorry if im disturbing you with this whole "did you tried this" thing but i only want to help.
 
you asked me if the monitor produced a good picture you asked me?

i do not care about convergence or anything like that only reason i wanted it was because of bright clear colors like my old one i have seen several flatscreens they are just not the same so no i do not want a flatscreen

i just answered your question i have no idea what to do right now it flashed even worse now when i started it

only reason i mentiond the convergence is because you asked me if it was producing a good picture so i answered it the best i could i tried to be as honest as i could about everything that is happening

as for warmup yes i read that text however i thought warmup wasn't set in stone in terms of how long it takes i thought the avg time everyone says is just that an average time but the actual time varied between monitors in that case he already knew how long it takes for them to warm up (YES i read it)

i am trying to be nice and calm about this but you asked me if it was producing a ok picture so i thought we were getting somewhere

i also regret buying it to be honest i tried to be calm and nice about this but this is just as hard for me as it is for you all the money i spent on it

if it wasn't making flashes everytime i started it then i would be happy i do not care about a few convergence problems i simply mentiond them all i care about is a bright and colorful picture and if my old fw900 could do it then this one can do it ALOT better thats the only thing i care about

i am giving up as theres no point anymore i tried to be calm about it i tried to be nice about it knowing what you did for me to get it but being told that you really regret it thats where i lose hope theres nothing that can be done right now

so i will be forced to just leave it and take care of it myself i don't want to offtopic this thread anymore but i am just as frustrated as you are but i tried to be nice and calm about it i even offered to remove everything i said in this thread as these things are supposed to be private and i apologized for taking it here and offered to remove it i tried to be nice and calm about it

i really did

now i am giving up and might when i have the strenght try to take care of this myself maybe take it to a repair shop sometime later i guess i have to disconnect it now and go back a 21 inch

so yeah i am just as sad and frustrated about this as you are i am not blaiming you for anything frankly i have no idea what happened too it only guess i have is that it got damaged in the shipping i do not think you sold me a broken monitor i never did i don't know what hapened to this monitor all i know is you would never send me a monitor you knew had problems that i do know but i don't know what happened too it my biggest guess is that it got damaged in the shipping

edit:it is actually getting worse now it flashed green again this time several minutes after starting it up cold i guess i am forced to take it down let it stand on the floor untill i have the strenght to do something

PLEASE BOX IT UP AND SEND IT BACK TO ME IMMEDIATELY... I NEED TO RUN FULL DIAGNOSTICS ON THIS UNIT TO DETERMINE WHAT HAPPENED... As I indicated to you several times, I will ship it back to you at my expense.

It is looking more and more to me that it was dropped by the carrier while in transit.

Let me know what you decide.

Sincerely,

Unkle Vito!
 
zzcoool im sorry for you, and it hurts me inside to read this whole discussion with you and lagrunauer about your problem.

I dont want to reroll the whole problem discussion but as far as i understood it, the only problem you have is this flashing right?

Do you have tried to connect the power of the FW900 to an UPS. Because CRT's can be very sensitive to power-fluctuations.

Sorry if im disturbing you with this whole "did you tried this" thing but i only want to help.

no not ONLY flashes just mainly flashes other problems include zooming in and out it flashes can either be faint and very little or huge like it did today where it flashed into a dark green picture a few weeks ago it changed to a green picture with giant green lines in it it is ALWAYS green

ups meaning protector against thunder?

PLEASE BOX IT UP AND SEND IT BACK TO ME IMMEDIATELY... I NEED TO RUN FULL DIAGNOSTICS ON THIS UNIT TO DETERMINE WHAT HAPPENED... As I indicated to you several times, I will ship it back to you at my expense.

It is looking more and more to me that it was dropped by the carrier while in transit.

Let me know what you decide.

Sincerely,

Unkle Vito!

i want to do it but i don't think i can afford to send it you say you will pay what it costs to send it back but i don't know if i can pay what it costs so send it it will likely cost more then i paid for the monitor itself

i don't know if i can afford that ontop of that i don't know how to pack it properly so i need to take it to a repair shop for them to pack it for me (they had earlier offered packing to send to a authorized sony shop they offered this when i wanted my old one calibrated so they know how)

but it makes me abit glad that i am no longer blaimed for this
 
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I mean that the UPS should intercept the power-fluctuations.

I think if you are really want this monitor (and i think you really want it because if not, you would never shipped this "piece of old tech" from america to you) then just send it back to vito. Maybe you just had bad luck and Vito is able to repair it. And if it gets repaired he will send it back to you. It will solve both problems. First is: Why the ****** hell is it producing all this problems. Second: You have your beloved fully calibrated by a pro FW900 back. Thats my opinion.
 
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I mean that the UPS should intercept the power-fluctuations.

i don't think i have one at all but i honestly don't know exactly what it is

i have my monitor connected in a socket adapter thats connected to the wall

two of these linked together connected to the wall

pd434436-dutch_type_oem_6_outlets_switched_plug_power_extension_socket.jpg


and yes i want it but i don't know if i can afford to send it back
 
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If you previously had a FW900 and it worked fine (and I believe you said you did), just use whatever power source/bar you previously used.

A power issue makes no sense if your old FW900 and every other CRT you own works fine using that same power source.

And since you have used CRTs quite a bit, the argument that you simply aren't a CRT person doesn't make any sense at all.

Based on reading over the recent posts, it does sound like it got damaged during shipping. If that is the case, wouldn't insurance just take care of it?

And Vito agreeing to repair and ship back is very fair, but you do run into the same issue that occurs with eBay purchases from time to time. The shipping costs, even one way, can be more than the monitor is even worth. Is it worth it to pay... what, $500-$1000 on your end, to mail it back? You probably are better off just finding a repair shop locally instead. And even if you do pay to ship it to Vito, he fixes it, sends it back... there is no guarantee the same problem won't reoccur again due to damage during return shipment.

I'd probably recommend getting it fixed locally, or go through insurance and get reimbursed that way, if possible.
 
If you previously had a FW900 and it worked fine (and I believe you said you did), just use whatever power source/bar you previously used.

A power issue makes no sense if your old FW900 and every other CRT you own works fine using that same power source.

And since you have used CRTs quite a bit, the argument that you simply aren't a CRT person doesn't make any sense at all.

Based on reading over the recent posts, it does sound like it got damaged during shipping. If that is the case, wouldn't insurance just take care of it?

And Vito agreeing to repair and ship back is very fair, but you do run into the same issue that occurs with eBay purchases from time to time. The shipping costs, even one way, can be more than the monitor is even worth. Is it worth it to pay... what, $500-$1000 on your end, to mail it back? You probably are better off just finding a repair shop locally instead. And even if you do pay to ship it to Vito, he fixes it, sends it back... there is no guarantee the same problem won't reoccur again due to damage during return shipment.

I'd probably recommend getting it fixed locally, or go through insurance and get reimbursed that way, if possible.

it seems i have no choice anymore i don't know if this was a simple problem

but i was playing my game normally then it all of a sudden lost signal (the no signal screen was showing) then it wen't black and started to blink orange and green i turned it off tried to connect it again and now it works

i guess i should just take it down for it's own good
 
it seems i have no choice anymore i don't know if this was a simple problem

but i was playing my game normally then it all of a sudden lost signal (the no signal screen was showing) then it wen't black and started to blink orange and green i turned it off tried to connect it again and now it works

i guess i should just take it down for it's own good

If you had this monitor connected to an electric wall socket without surge protection (via UPS), it was working properly when you were playing a game, and then all of the sudden you lost signal and the power light started blinking orange then green, you had a power surge (peak voltage) and you may have damaged the internal components of the monitor. I will have to assess which component(s) were zapped.

Now and finally I think we know what really happened...

Sincerely,

Unkle Vito!
 
If you had this monitor connected to an electric wall socket without surge protection (via UPS), it was working properly when you were playing a game, and then all of the sudden you lost signal and the power light started blinking orange then green, you had a power surge (peak voltage) and you may have damaged the internal components of the monitor. I will have to assess which component(s) were zapped.

Now and finally I think we know what really happened...

Sincerely,

Unkle Vito!

so you are saying fw900 monitors cannot be used normally with normal power sockets?

my p1130 worked just fine so did all my other monitors using the same type of power i have used several trinitrons in this room connected the exact same way i have a dell p1130 that was working wounderfully a few weeks ago while i was waiting for this one and it worked just perfect

i really don't know what to do right now i have gotten so far that i can no longer handle first depression and now this ontop of that
 
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Although the problem could be powered related, the odds seem to be against it. It looks like you have a surge protector anyway (based on that pic you listed previously).

If you used to have a FW900, and currently have a ton of CRTs, all working fine using the same power source, the odds are really, really against a surge all of a sudden breaking your FW900. I won't say it's impossible, but it'd seem unlikely to me.

I don't quite get why Vito would all of a sudden say now we know what really happened, when without looking inside the monitor and checking things out, we'll never know. My bet would be on damage during shipping, unless you have some weird power there that happens to fluctuate all the time.

And in the latter case, it'd be more than just your FW900 that would show problems.
 
Although the problem could be powered related, the odds seem to be against it. It looks like you have a surge protector anyway (based on that pic you listed previously).

If you used to have a FW900, and currently have a ton of CRTs, all working fine using the same power source, the odds are really, really against a surge all of a sudden breaking your FW900. I won't say it's impossible, but it'd seem unlikely to me.

I don't quite get why Vito would all of a sudden say now we know what really happened, when without looking inside the monitor and checking things out, we'll never know. My bet would be on damage during shipping, unless you have some weird power there that happens to fluctuate all the time.

And in the latter case, it'd be more than just your FW900 that would show problems.


I am only making an educated guess based on Jonathan's assertion.

I have offered Jonathan to make a full assessment of the unit and, repair it (if necessary); then ship it back to him at my expense (about $1,300.00 plus...), and I am binding & adhering 101% to my offer in writing. He needs to pack up the monitor in the original box & foams it was sent out to him, and send it to me immediately via FedEx insured. If he no longer have the box, he needs to have it professionally packed, which means it needs to be raised 6-8" from the bottom and have 4-6" of cushion all around the sides, front, back and top, and the box needs to be 28"x28"x28" double walled heavy duty. If this unit is not packed this way, it will arrive destroyed.

I have the actual calibration report along with pictures and a video of the unit which shows its impeccable functionality. If someone wants it, please send me a PM and include an email address...

Hope this helps...

Sincerely,

Unkle Vito!
 
I am only making an educated guess based on Jonathan's assertion.

I have offered Jonathan to make a full assessment of the unit and, repair it (if necessary); then ship it back to him at my expense (about $1,300.00 plus...), and I am binding & adhering 101% to my offer in writing. He needs to pack up the monitor in the original box & foams it was sent out to him, and send it to me immediately via FedEx insured. If he no longer have the box, he needs to have it professionally packed, which means it needs to be raised 6-8" from the bottom and have 4-6" of cushion all around the sides, front, back and top, and the box needs to be 28"x28"x28" double walled heavy duty. If this unit is not packed this way, it will arrive destroyed.

I have the actual calibration report along with pictures and a video of the unit which shows its impeccable functionality. If someone wants it, please send me a PM and include an email address...

Hope this helps...

Sincerely,

Unkle Vito!

i would send it back but i litterally do not have the money to send it to you i don't have it so i am left with no options

i don't want to make things difficult for you but this just makes me sad

i will take down the monitor today and let it stand on the floor go back to my p1130 as this one might not stay alive for much longer

new video this time it was a blue flash

http://speedy.sh/k2SuD/fw900-blue-flash.mp4

(please note the iphone was out of focus while filming this thats why everything is blurry)

i also tried to turn it off wait a few min then turn it on it showed no problems whatsoever so these problems only show when it's started up from 100% cold
 
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i would send it back but i litterally do not have the money to send it to you i don't have it so i am left with no options

i don't want to make things difficult for you but this just makes me sad

i will take down the monitor today and let it stand on the floor go back to my p1130 as this one might not stay alive for much longer

new video this time it was a blue flash

http://speedy.sh/k2SuD/fw900-blue-flash.mp4

(please note the iphone was out of focus while filming this thats why everything is blurry)

i also tried to turn it off wait a few min then turn it on it showed no problems whatsoever so these problems only show when it's started up from 100% cold

Your situation sucks big time, but from what I see here it looks like a no fault thing between you and Vito. It looks like the monitor may have taken a substantial whack during shipping, I mean California to Sweden is a long way frought with plenty of opportunity for the shipper to drop the box. Since the shipping claim window has passed and you can't file a claim, and Vito is willing to cover the shipping back to you if you send him the monitor for inspection, I say you wait and save up your money until you can afford to send the FW900 back to him for repair.

I WOULD NOT TAKE THE FW900 TO A LOCAL REPAIR DUDE AS YOU MIGHT LOOSE EVERYTHING. Just keep on using the monitor as is until you can afford to send it back to Vito and FOR THE LOVE OF GOD end this endless bickering debate back and fourth and let the thread get back on topic before the mods close it.
 
Your situation sucks big time, but from what I see here it looks like a no fault thing between you and Vito. It looks like the monitor may have taken a substantial whack during shipping, I mean California to Sweden is a long way frought with plenty of opportunity for the shipper to drop the box. Since the shipping claim window has passed and you can't file a claim, and Vito is willing to cover the shipping back to you if you send him the monitor for inspection, I say you wait and save up your money until you can afford to send the FW900 back to him for repair.

I WOULD NOT TAKE THE FW900 TO A LOCAL REPAIR DUDE AS YOU MIGHT LOOSE EVERYTHING. Just keep on using the monitor as is until you can afford to send it back to Vito and FOR THE LOVE OF GOD end this endless bickering debate back and fourth and let the thread get back on topic before the mods close it.

you are right and i don't feel like doing much right now anyway so i guess i am just forced to leave it sure i can keep using it but from my understanding it won't live out this year

i don't want to be hated or cause problems for vito by saying anything thats why i apologized for taking it here

so i think i am simply giving up i see no point in saving up money just to send it there and thats not something i have much will in doing

it flashed again this time to a black picture with white type lines in it then to a solid dark green color

only thing i see being a point is taking it to a repair shop i see no other reasons other then taking it down hiding it somewhere under something so i don't have to look at it and hopefully i'll forget what i spent for it and that i even bought it

now if vito wanted to give me the money he was supposed to use to send it back then i could replace it with something else once it dies but i find it unlikely he will agree on that and it is probably asking for too much anyway

i am sorry for taking it offtopic i just didn't know what to do i still don't this is a plain and simple nightmare for me
 
I would stop using the monitor until you can get it looked at to prevent possible further damage.

I was stubborn when my FW900 started acting up, The picture still looked fine so I ignored the strange "Screech" sounds during cold powerups, but a few months later one morning the screech was much louder and I could also hear what sounded like electrical arcing, needless to say it would no longer even attempt to turn on after that.
 
I would stop using the monitor until you can get it looked at to prevent possible further damage.

I was stubborn when my FW900 started acting up, The picture still looked fine so I ignored the strange "Screech" sounds during cold powerups, but a few months later one morning the screech was much louder and I could also hear what sounded like electrical arcing, needless to say it would no longer even attempt to turn on after that.

yeah i give up i am taking it down right now

there we go now i am using my trusty p1130 that works perfectly fine using the same exact cables connected the same exact way just a vga cable instead of bnc

and i got this p1130 for free 1/5 years ago amazing

oh well back to 21 inch i guess even the convergence is better aswell same with black before warmup i am actually happier with this one

here is the start of that one i also included the sound it makes as it's the most quiet monitor i have ever had

http://speedy.sh/ubG3Z/p1130.mp4

heres two pictures of how it's connected

first we have the grey one the one where my computer and monitor is connected too including external harddrive and phone charger

550802_10151225089151668_313165023_n.jpg


then we have the white one where the grey one is connected too white one going in the wall

545494_10151225089261668_920066730_n.jpg


notice the grey cable being connected that grey cable leads to the grey one

from what i have been told i guess the fw900 is a whole lot more sensitive then the p1130 which is weird considering they are both sony trinitron tubes but then again what do i know

i guess thats that then my fw900 is standing on the floor under a bunch of towels atleast i no longer have to have fear when starting my monitor in the morning

i should have listened to my dad when he told me not to buy it as something would probably happen but i trusted that everything would go perfect seeing how many people are happy with buying a fully calibreated fw900 i could finally afford it it was a dream moment for me i was so happy to finally have one so i didn't care about what it cost i took everything i had and now i am paying for it dearly i will probably never have that kind of money again

and i don't want to get banned and hated from here for going offtopic and i don't want to cause more problems for vito so i guess i have no choice but to leave it i don't know what any of this is and i probably won't either all i know is my p1130 works perfectly with the same type of cables connected the same way absolutely no problems with this one

i have to think about wheather i want to spend an extra 1500 or whatever it costs to send it back then perhaps an extra 300 for it to get professionally packed but right now just thinking about it makes me want to well i won't say it and thinking about the monitor just makes me break down
 
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it was crazy idea to let sensitive electronic monitor of 96 lbs be shipped across half the globe.. I mean, a flat panel, ok... But not a monitor that can't be lifted by one person.

That is the only cause of your trouble i guess :( sorry it had to happen this way, i feel for you, really.

Just take the thing to anyone that has spare parts for the monitor. See what he can do.

Imho, if you had bought one of those 27 inch Korean IPS panels, or a good 24 inch 120hz IPS panel from a store locally, then you would have spent lot less money and you would have had lot less risk of having the monitor damaged during transport.

Buying a second hand CRT monitor like the fw900, or a new refurbished one, is only worth the risk if the seller is relatively close to you, so that it can be shipped by one straight car ride. The more it has to be hauled from one carrier type to another, the more chance of it being damaged during transport.

I wouldn't spend so much money returning it. Chances are it arrives with even more damages. You can't really expect your monitor will ever arrive working perfect after shipping the thing 4 times across half the globe..

Once again, i feel really sorry for you. You obviously are a lover of CRT technology, as we all are in this thread.
 
Although it wouldn't be as good as a Vito repair, aren't there any local repair shops, or perhaps a Sony shop, that could take a look at it, and at least attempt some sort of repair?

I would think a local shop wouldn't charge more than a couple of hundred. For the cost of professionally packing it, you may be able to get it fixed.

And yeah, it'd stink to pay several hundred and find out it's still broken, but I'd rather do that, than pay $1000+, get it shipped back, and find out during shipping something else broke.
 
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