24" Widescreen CRT (FW900) From Ebay arrived,Comments.

Bah101 said:
Hey guys. Long time forum troller, first time poster.
I must say this thread is pretty hella sweet as I’ve read all 300+pages of it…

I was very fortunate to get one of these bad boys locally for $200. It was actually on eBay but the seller was within about 20min of me. I really think I hit the “monitor lottery” considering when I brought it home and inspected it, I tried looking for flaws or anything wrong but it had flawless glass, geometry, colors, tube, AG coating was removed, and it came with a Blue Jeans Cable BNC to DVI cable- pretty much this thing was perfect. The bezel was in really good condition too. The guy I bought it from bought it from AccurateIT back in 2008 and used it up until I bought it this May. Guess I got one from a good batch….heh

The real “fun” part was when I got home. I live in a brownstone (garden-rise) in a 2 story condo in Washington, DC so I had to haul this fucker up about 5 small flights of stairs, and then a full flight when I got into my place. To say the least I was out of breath and chose not to work out that day…

I was coming from past NEC CRT’s: XV17+ (17”) > FE992 (19”) > FP2141sb (22”) > FW900 so to say the least this was a bit of a change…
Anyway, so just recently I experienced what various people have posted here about the “ping \ flicker, out of focus, pop” issue (yeah it really is a sight to see and hear to say the least). This just happened suddenly after working flawlessly ever since I bought it (May 2011). The odd part is, all three ping \ flicker, out of focus only lasted for one day, then never did all three again. Only the ping \ flicker continued for about 3 days after, only during the warm up period. After a few more days went by, I heard a “pop”. The ping \ flicker, out of focus symptoms never happened again…although I do want to say I’ve heard very small “pops” at times but this seems to happen only during the warm up period and during the same time when my blank black screensaver has come on (time interval is 3min).These “small pops” rarely, if at all, happen however.

When I first saw \ heard the above, yeah, I was a bit concerned…
As a precaution I trolled for a bit to see if there were any Sony Authorized Service centers \ shops around the DC, Maryland, Virginia area (DMV). The one I found is around Baltimore- Video Tech Center (h**p://www.videotechcenter.com).
I can’t vouch for these guys as I’ve never used them or know if they’re any good but for those who are in my area, I hope this is of some use. One thing I did notice is they make house calls- IMO I’d be more than willing to pay a little extra so I don’t have to haul this god damn thing up and down the stairs again…

So far, everything has been fine- knock on wood…
Click to expand...

Although the "pops" and "out of focus" malfunctions are mostly FBT related issues, we have seen that in many occasions, replacing of the FBT does not 100% solves the "pop" problem. Upon further testing of the CRT, we found H-K shorts (G-1 shorts are easy fixes but H-K shorts are not) on the tube which are also culprits.

Hope this helps...

Sincerely,

Unkle Vito!
 
Hey. Thanks for the response guys.

One thing I forgot to mention, this is connected to a UPS, as all of my monitors have been since the day I've used them, at the "highest-cleanest" power setting (fyi). Also, I haven't heard a "pop" for a loooong time (really ever since the above symptoms happened).

But yeah, I guess I'll just play it by ear and hope this puppy doesn’t die... :p

I do have one question for ya Unkle Vito- This may be a nub' Q so forgive me ahead of time: How do you calculate the hours on a CRT? From what I can remember you measure the phosphor, but how is this done and with what equipment? Is this a difficult procedure or...? I’m just over all curious.

Thx!
 
Bah101 said:
Hey. Thanks for the response guys.

One thing I forgot to mention, this is connected to a UPS, as all of my monitors have been since the day I've used them, at the "highest-cleanest" power setting (fyi). Also, I haven't heard a "pop" for a loooong time (really ever since the above symptoms happened).

But yeah, I guess I'll just play it by ear and hope this puppy doesn’t die... :p

I do have one question for ya Unkle Vito- This may be a nub' Q so forgive me ahead of time: How do you calculate the hours on a CRT? From what I can remember you measure the phosphor, but how is this done and with what equipment? Is this a difficult procedure or...? I’m just over all curious.

Thx!
Click to expand...

There isn't a really "accurate" way to calculate the hours of use of a CRT, but only an estimation based on good testing results.

If you have access to a Sencore CR7000 or a CR70, you can measure the emission of the CRT, and if the emission is high on the "GOOD" range, then you will have a relative newer tube or a "lightly used" tube.

If you perform a WinDAS white point balance adjustment, and the CRT requires luminance adjustment of less than 100 (adjustment scale of zero (0) being brand new tube to 255 being washed out useless tube) ON THE FIRST ADJUSTMENT, then you will have a newer or "lightly used" tube.

Assessing these two testing results, and depending on how high/low and how much luminance adjustment in WinDAS is required, in my practical experience I consider "lightly used" tubes to have 2000 hours (8 hours a day, five times a week for twelve months) of use (if that), or less, depending on the values obtained during the testing.

A rule of thumb: The higher the luminance is (as tested on a Sencore CR7000 or CR70), and a lower luminance adjustment is required on WinDAS, then a newer the tube will be. I consider a "new tube", a CRT that has a high luminance emission rating (highest on the "GOOD" range scale of a CR7000 or CR70), and WinDAS luminance adjustment of 20 and lower...

This is how I estimate the usage and life left on these tubes...

Hope this helps...

Sincerely,

Unkle Vito!
 
Damn, it seems AccurateIt.com is out of CRTs. My current Sony G400 is on the fritz, so I need a replacement soon.
 
Man, I missed out on a craigslist deal on a FW900 in mint condition for $75, I'm kicking myself for not checking it daily like I used to.

/atomic rage!!!!
 
So... Just solved the out-of-focus problem by switching the power strip, for now... Who knew that the quality of a power strip could affect a monitor so badly. Still running the monitor on a black screen when I start up just to be sure that it's 100% gone... There's still some minor popping and flickering at lower resolutions but the out-of-focus issue seems to be gone...
 
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I think this FW900 is just dead. Bad gun, phosphor, whatever.

30% brightness @ 98 for g2

LF5jUl.jpg



100% brightness @ 78

buoSkl.jpg


[both settings are basically equivalent, note the horribly white-blue "blacks"]

~40% brightness @ 78

Egnt5l.jpg


[This is the about the best setting that preserves true black, and the colors are horribly dull and dark]

0% Brightness @ 78

Fd2zIl.jpg


all taken at 100% contrast with a TN panel for reference.

so much wasted time. Oh well, time to get a nice 2560x1600 IPS panel..

oh and i think drive_max is at something stupid high like 295, don't recall why i changed that as well.
 
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I use a CRT enough the the phosphors are wearing down. I got a old new stock backup =)
LCDs are just too hard on my eyes it's not really the monitor but it's going into work which does it for me.
Which overhead florescent lights just burn me up.
 
I just installed the SP1 service pack to my Windows 7 machine, and then after that did the nVidia GTS250 driver upgrade. I noticed afterward that my monitor is now shown as a generic non-PnP. I can't remember, but don't we have a usable (on Win7 x64) INF file for the FW900?
 
I know this little problem, every time when i update my nvidia display driver he stops using the inf file and use the normal pnp thing. I dont know why he is doing that but you just have to "say" him again that he should use the original monitor inf.
 
w262 said:
Looking at it more, it's not really so much blue as it is grey.. it still ruins it no matter what color your blacks are.
Click to expand...

My obsession with deep blacks lead me to buy this thing; at first I was expecting it to produce blacks that was the equivalent of the monitor being turned off but then I learned that I'd have to sacrifice deep blacks in order to have accurate colors... That meant increasing the bias (which is the cause of poor black levels btw. Discovered this after I had the monitor for 8 months, had the BIAS at 80 which seemed unusually high..) decreasing the GAIN somewhat and well... Just messing around with the settings for a long time until I got the desired result.. While the whites may be bluish to me, I'm ultimately happy with my settings...

It sucks that your monitor is possibly broken... However don't fret; just keep adjusting the settings and get rid of that anti-glare coasting and if that doesn't work, then take it to a professional who knows how to fix it. Don't give up, us FW900 owners need to stick together.
 
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Kermie said:
My obsession with deep blacks lead me to buy this thing; at first I was expecting it to produce blacks that was the equivalent of the monitor being turned off but then I learned that I'd have to sacrifice deep blacks in order to have accurate colors... That meant increasing the bias (which is the cause of poor black levels btw. Discovered this after I had the monitor for 8 months, had the BIAS at 80 which seemed unusually high..) decreasing the GAIN somewhat and well... Just messing around with the settings for a long time until I got the desired result.. While the whites may be bluish, I'm ultimately happy with my settings...

It sucks that your monitor is possibly broken... However don't fret; just keep adjusting the settings and get rid of that anti-glare coasting and if that doesn't work, then take it to a professional who knows how to fix it. Don't give up, us FW900 owners need to stick together.
Click to expand...

Any types of color casts on the monitor are indications of bad gun(s), or bad color transistor(s), and/or the need for white point balance by WinDAS/WinCAT, or a combination of all three issues...

Forcing the adjustments in the OSD color controls (bias-gain) to compensate for the bad gun(s) or the bad color transistor(s) or overdue WPB will only make the matters worst in the long run and often lead to other problems including but not limited to corruption of the EEPROM parameters and diminishing the life of the tube...

Hope this helps...

Sincerely,

Unkle Vito!
 
Wow... It seems like I'm posting in this thread a lot...

So just recently I've been experiencing an issue with where the graphics cards keeps on forgetting the image adjustment settings and sometimes reports the wrong monitor resolution to the monitor... Whenever I click the arrow in the image adjustment settings, the monitor changes to the approrpriate resolution and I can see the correct resolution now. This is what I currently have in my image adjustment settings...

imageadjustmentvga.jpg


So is there anything that I need to change, do I have to have composite sync enabled? (NOTE: This is not a monitor problem at all, I'm only asking here because I can't find any information about Horizontal or Vertical syncs for the monitor nor can I figure out what these settings mean.)
 
@Kermie:

don't use catalyst, disable edid, and use the monitor's builtin geometry adjustment only.

Don't mean to toot my horn, but I got eyefinity working with fw900 in the middle running at a custom 94Hz and two 24" lcds on the side running at 60Hz with radeon catalyst 11.10 drivers using powestrip, thread here:

http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?p=1038016877

also latest powerstrip is amazing, radeon 5000 and 6000 series support is back! (slightly, at least for refresh rates, WOOT!)
 
Myramond said:
I know this little problem, every time when i update my nvidia display driver he stops using the inf file and use the normal pnp thing. I dont know why he is doing that but you just have to "say" him again that he should use the original monitor inf.
Click to expand...

Thanks. That was the ticket. FW900 now showing in Device manager.
 
kohan69 said:
latest powerstrip is amazing, radeon 5000 and 6000 series support is back! (slightly, at least for refresh rates, WOOT!)
Click to expand...

Finally good news for us. All I have heard recently has been bad news. DOWN WITH BAD NEWS.. We are the 0.001% of users. FW900 users.

Also take a picture of the setup. I need to see it!
 
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ZeosPantera said:
Finally good news for us. All I have heard recently has been bad news. DOWN WITH BAD NEWS.. We are the 0.001% of users. FW900 users.

Also take a picture of the setup. I need to see it!
Click to expand...

Good to hear. I've been avoiding the last couple of few driver updates for fear of ending up on 60hz (I don't play any recent games anyway). I'll have to grab powerstrip (haven't used in a while).
 
Ugh... Seems like my stupidity got the better of me... I tried to lower the G2 voltage using my WinDAS cable and it seems like it doesn't recognize the monitor at all; but before that I did get an NG message before foolishly pressing the start button... And after resetting the monitor by unplugging and plugging the monitor back in after it failed to turn back on.

Now the monitor at certain points seems to be going into a standby mode and then turns on back again... This happens when the monitor restarts or I'm switching to another source... The monitor also appears to be slowly shrinking the image... I seriously don't know what I'm going to do, I think I'm at the end of my ropes here....

I mean I might of messed up the monitor by trying various things; things like installing PowerSync and trying various sync settings... And just trying again and again to get WinDAS to work... I don't know if it's the port or the cable but at this point I'm worried that if I turn my monitor on again it might just shrink or go out forever...

And I don't know if Unkle Vito can fix it this time... I think I might of F'ed up here...
 
It's possible to run the FW900 at a different refresh rate than the LCDs. You must use a custom inf driver for the FW900. I run the FW900 at 100hz and the LCDs at 60. Even bezel compensation works because I modified the EDID of the FW900 to match the physical size coded in the EDID of the LCDs. Works great and matches well with my pair of 22" LCD monitors.
ATI driver updates have not wiped out my monitor INF at all since the 11.x drivers came out. Currenly running 11.11 with a pair of 6970s in crossfire. The drivers are way more stable than they used to be with eyefinity. I have no issues with having to resetup the eyefinity group after a driver update. It keeps all my settings.
Current resolution is 5140x1050. ((1680x1050)x3 plus 100 pixels for bezel compensation)
 
S734L7H said:
Current resolution is 5140x1050. ((1680x1050)x3 plus 100 pixels for bezel compensation)
Click to expand...

Bravo my friend. Bravo. You are the first to pull this off that I know of. How hard was it to try and match the colors across the three monitors?
 
ZeosPantera said:
Bravo my friend. Bravo. You are the first to pull this off that I know of. How hard was it to try and match the colors across the three monitors?
Click to expand...

Exactly what I was thinking. Any issues with tearing in games, running different refresh rates? Does vsync still work? Would love to see this done on an nVidia card.
 
Very nice. I've been considering doing something like that, as you could tell from my posts in the other "Eyefinity across 3 CRT Displays " thread. that you just posted in.
.
I have a few questions as well.
.
..Are you running 1680x1050 to stress the gpu less or to bump crt the refresh rate up higher (100hz ?), or both?
.
..Is 1680x1050 the native resolution of the side LCD monitors or are you scaling (tends to make things a little less crisp , muddy result) ?
.
.If the side panels are 1080p native, have you tried running all three monitors at 1080p? what refresh rate were you capable of on the fw900 in that scenario? any issues?
.
.Do you think 22" fits the fw900 better than a 23" would? I'm guessing it's pretty close either way since the viewable on the fw900 is 22.5" I believe.. but if you ran the fw900 at 16:9 aspect I supposed it would be more like 22" now that I think of it. Anyway 23" is in my mind because the closest sized 120hz panels are 23", and I'm considering using those on the sides, perhaps at 120hz - 96 hz - 120hz at 1080p on all three.

And thanks again for having posted this (in both threads no less) so people can see it.
 
Seems to me, you'd be better off using 22" LCD's. That way, you could overlap the smaller LCD's in front of the FW900's huge bezel. The the LCD's in front of the FW900, their size will kind of balance out their being smaller, making a better match.
 
Color matching wasn't too hard. Used some RGB test images. Black levels obviously aren't as good on the LCDs compared to the FW900, but colors match well.

The native res on the LCD panels are 1680x1050 and are a very close match to the FW900 aspect. (the FW900 is inbetween a 16:10 and 16:9 if you stretch to the bezels) Size wise, when you add a little black to top and bottom of the FW900 to square the image at 16:10 aspect, Its basically a perfect match for 22" monitors.

I don't normally run with vsync on, so I'm not sure how that would react with the different refresh rates. If screen tearing occurs on the LCDs, i'm not aware of it because they are on the sides and my main focus is on the FW900 in the center.

Also, overlapping the 22" lcds in front of the wide bezel on the FW900 helps bring the 22" lcds just slightly closer to your view, and this offsets the size difference as well.

I just had a thought too... I have a spare bezel for the FW900. I might hack this for cutouts to inset the LCDs slightly. Maybe a weekend project after hunting season.
 
Thanks for replying and answering my questions.
.
I went back to the original fw900 crt-in-the-middle eyefinity threads and found that the original ManyCowsMoo guy was using HP LP2465 's on either side, which are 24" 1920x1200's . (His post here) They were larger than the fw900 but I think they looked pretty good in the pics - so I think 23" 1080p wouldn't be too bad either. 1680x1050 native ones like S734L7H(the person - forum name can be confused with hardware models lol) is using are a good option too since fw900 can hit higher hz at that rez, they match more exactly in size, and that rez is less demanding on gpu than x1080 or x1200 , especially in a triple monitor setup.
.
. I might go with the 23" ones. I actually have a 23" 1080p (samsung 233HD) at another desk I can borrow , and a 22" 1080p (dell 22WFP) at work, so I can make a mismatched triple setup eventually just for testing purposes, and then later either add another 23" or 22" to match the one I prefer, or buy two 120hz 23" someday.
.
. I think it will come down to how much blurring I see on the side monitors. I know LLL eyefinity setups have the side monitors in your periphery for by design, utilizing them for a feeling of immersion - so I might not notice nor require 120hz panels on the sides. If every time I do fast FoV movement I still see a washout effect on textures on the sides even though mostly peripheral - I might consider springing and replacing both with 120hz someday for a 120hz - 85hz to 96hz - 120hz at 1080p (even though 120hz still blurs out textures, just around "half as much"). The samsung 120hz 23" panels are also glossy which my 22" and 23" lcds are not, and which I'd prefer to combine with the crt which is glossy.

Here are a few a pictures of ManyCowsMoo 's setup that I crudely photoshopped in order to estimate what it would look like with the side LCD's overlapping the FW900 bezels. I didn't resize the side panels in the pic.. I just cropped them out and moved them over a tiny amount.

eyefinity_fw900_bc2_overlapped-bezels.jpg


fw900-with-lcds-eyefinity_overlapped-bezels2.jpg
 
S734L7H if you get a chance sometime I'm interesting in seeing a picture of your setup with a game or two running across all three rather than desktop. Like I said I'm going to eventually test it with some monitors I have though so don't sweat it if you don't feel like it.
.
I'm also interested in how you edited the EDID of the FW900 to match, since I might be using 23" and want bezel compensation. I've heard of modding it, and I've also used custom powerstip inf's and such but its been awhile. I actually retired my fw900 temporarily when I set up my IPS and beefy gpu upgrade, but now I'm finding the texture washout from blurring on very high/fine detail textures and depth-via-bump mapping very obnoxious. Now that I have a gpu capable of such great textures on the most modern and demanding games I have - the lcd blurring is in effect worse, wrenching my eyes away from texture fine detail and texture depth both. Blur that my eyes attempt to focus away every time I move my FoV quickly = eyestrain and annoying besides. Its not as bad on older game engines like L4D2, etc.. but on modern extremely high detail graphics ceiling games l play its really bad, especially with a 27" 16:9 in front of me encompassing most of my view, giving an almost imax-like sea-sick effect.

lcd-blur.jpg
 
I used Powerstrip to edit the EDID of the FW900. The value to edit is the Physical Size value (i think thats what it was labeled). One of the forums on here had the instructions for using powerstrip to flash a custom EDID to the monitor. I was going to edit the EDID on the LCDs, but they were locked and I couldn't reflash them. I'll post some gameplay pics when i get home from work or maybe some video and post on youtube.
On a side note, I found some info to fix the teammate tags not showing glitch on BF3 when running multi-display. I found it on http://widescreengamingforum.com/fo...attlefield-3-hudtipsmultiplayer-icons-?page=9 I'll let you know the results.
 
Rock&Roll said:
Seems to me, you'd be better off using 22" LCD's. That way, you could overlap the smaller LCD's in front of the FW900's huge bezel. The the LCD's in front of the FW900, their size will kind of balance out their being smaller, making a better match.
Click to expand...

make sure the lcd is thn enough with no card readers/usb.

i have two dell 2407wfp-HC on the sides, and the left overlaps better than the right, because the right one has a card reader/usb on the left side.
 
kohan69 said:
make sure the lcd is thn enough with no card readers/usb.

i have two dell 2407wfp-HC on the sides, and the left overlaps better than the right, because the right one has a card reader/usb on the left side.
Click to expand...

Solid input. Now, I'm actually looking to find if there are any decent 16:10 IPS 22" LCD's without USB ports on the bezel.
 
I use a pair of V7 D22W12-N6. The bezels aren't real thick, and they dont have any usb ports. They do have speakers on the back, but they don't add any thickness to the sides. I don't use the speakers cause they sound horrible. lol

I also noticed I had my ambx turned off. It crashes BF3, but works in Dirt 3. I'll setup the tripod and take some more video tonight. I'll get some BF3 footage as well since I fixed my issue with the teammate tags not showing up in eyefinity.
 
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Thanks for the replies and taking the time to take pics and record media and post them. Much appreciated. Awesome vid.
 
I orignally posted this here:
http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1602727

but in case someone needs it in the future, they are probably more likely to find it in this thread.

this is how to run a crt in eyefinity in the middle screen with different refresh rates than the side lcd monitors:

Ok, praise Entech!!!

If it wasn't for PowerStrip I would be forced to abandon the FW900 long ago, but since the ati 5xxx series, they dropped the support, now they finally reverse engineered ati and caught up with the 5 series, the 6 series works too, not for colour, but for our intensive purposes.

This guide should apply to all monitors, not just the FW900, and not just CRTs, probably works for the individuals that have two 60Hz on the side and one 120Hz in the middle.

Some steps may not be necessary at all, may in your case some extras steps might be necessary, don't blame me if you break anything.

  1. Step one.

    This step isn't really required, at all. Completely optional.
    If you don't have a custom *.inf already installed so you can run the monitor at custom refresh rate over 85, well make one using moninfo (info1, info2, and info3 )
    You're welcome to use mine, but mine but it is for 1920x1200@97Hz (actual 94) so if you are trying for a different setup, like 3x 1920x1080 you'll have to make your own for single monitor viewing

    Link to my inf: mirror1, mirror2

    mirror3 of my inf:

    copy to notepad and save as whatever.inf
    Code: 
    ; INF file generated by Monitor Asset Manager (2.60.0.964), 7/6/2011
; Copyright (c) EnTech Taiwan, 1995-2011.
; Internet: http://www.entechtaiwan.com

[Version]
Signature="$WINDOWS NT$"
Class=Monitor
ClassGUID={4d36e96e-e325-11ce-bfc1-08002be10318}
Provider=%MFG%
DriverVer=7/6/2011, 1.0.0.0
;CatalogFile=YourSignedCatalogFile.cat

[DestinationDirs]
DefaultDestDir=23

[SourceDisksNames]
1=%DISC%

[SourceDisksFiles]
;YourColorProfileFile.icm

[Manufacturer]
%VENDOR%=EDID_OVERRIDE,NTx86,NTamd64

[EDID_OVERRIDE.NTx86]
%PRODUCTID%=OVERRIDDEN-EDID.Install, MONITOR\SNY01E0

[EDID_OVERRIDE.NTamd64]
%PRODUCTID%=OVERRIDDEN-EDID.Install.NTamd64, MONITOR\SNY01E0

[OVERRIDDEN-EDID.Install.NTx86]
DelReg=DEL_CURRENT_REG
AddReg=OVERRIDDEN-EDID.AddReg, MODE1, DPMS
CopyFiles=OVERRIDDEN-EDID.CopyFiles

[OVERRIDDEN-EDID.Install.NTamd64]
DelReg=DEL_CURRENT_REG
AddReg=OVERRIDDEN-EDID.AddReg, MODE1, DPMS
CopyFiles=OVERRIDDEN-EDID.CopyFiles

[OVERRIDDEN-EDID.Install.NTx86.HW]
AddReg=OVERRIDDEN-EDID_AddReg

[OVERRIDDEN-EDID.Install.NTamd64.HW]
AddReg=OVERRIDDEN-EDID_AddReg

[OVERRIDDEN-EDID_AddReg]
;Base EDID
HKR,EDID_OVERRIDE,"0",0x01,0x00,0xFF,0xFF,0xFF,0xFF,0xFF,0xFF,0x00,0x4D,0xD9,0xE0,0x01,0x01,0x01,0x01,0x01,0x04,0x0D,0x01,0x03,0x0E,0x30,0x1F,0x96,0xE9,0x0C,0xC9,0xA0,0x57,0x47,0x9B,0x27,0x12,0x48,0x4C,0xFF,0xFF,0x80,0xE1,0x19,0xE1,0x4F,0xD1,0x22,0xD1,0xE8,0x45,0x7C,0x61,0x7C,0x81,0x3C,0xB3,0x28,0xF2,0x95,0x00,0x70,0x93,0xA0,0x43,0x50,0xB0,0x00,0x13,0x10,0xDA,0x28,0x11,0x00,0x00,0x18,0x00,0x00,0x00,0xFD,0x00,0x30,0xA0,0x1E,0x79,0x28,0x00,0x0A,0x20,0x20,0x20,0x20,0x20,0x20,0x00,0x00,0x00,0xFC,0x00,0x47,0x44,0x4D,0x2D,0x46,0x57,0x39,0x30,0x30,0x0A,0x20,0x20,0x20,0x00,0x00,0x00,0xFF,0x00,0x32,0x37,0x32,0x31,0x33,0x30,0x38,0x0A,0x20,0x20,0x20,0x20,0x20,0x00,0x43

[DEL_CURRENT_REG]
HKR,MODES
HKR,EDID_OVERRIDE
HKR,,MaxResolution
HKR,,PreferredMode
HKR,,DPMS
HKR,,ICMProfile

[DPMS]
HKR,,DPMS,,1

HKR,,PreferredMode,,"1920,1200,97"
[MODE1]
HKR,,MaxResolution,,"1920,1200,97"

[OVERRIDDEN-EDID.AddReg]
HKR,"MODES\1920,1200,97",Mode1,,"30.0-121.0,48.0-160.0,+,+"

[OVERRIDDEN-EDID.CopyFiles]
;YourColorProfileFile.icm for non-sRGB displays

[Strings]
MFG="EnTech Taiwan"
DISC="Monitor EDID Override Installation Disk"
PRODUCTID="Sony GDM-FW900 (SNY01E0 EDID Override)97"
VENDOR="Sony"

    Go to device manager, monitors, right click fw900, properties, driver tab, update driver, browse my computer, let me pick from list, click Have Disk, browse, and select the inf file your downloaded, install, restart computer
  2. Step two
    after installing the drivers, im running latest ati 11.10, go to catalyst control center, my vga displays, and under monitor attributes make sure EDID is not checked.
  3. Step three
    Install the latest powerstrip
    when installing click no for the colour profiles, since colour profiling configuration is still broken with 6000 series

    Have only your main middle crt enabled/plugged in, Restart puter, launch powerstrip

    right now your crt should be running at the desired regular resolution (1920x1200@94)

    right click powerstrip, display, configure, under refresh rate change to custom timing (or standard discrete, whatever is available) then click OK
    write down the values, my pixel clock was 315.000, vertical 94.248 and 119.318Hz horizontal, you might need these for reference
    No change have been made to the current resolution or something like that.will pop up, good click OK. but now it will say Custom instead of Windwos default there, click ok.
    Now change the timings BACK to windows default, and put the slider down to 60Hz
  4. Step four
    YOU MAY NOW CONNECT THE ADDITIONAL DISPLAYS

    go to ati control panel, enable eyefinity, set it up, now when it's on, and both screens on the sides are on and everything is right but the middle screen,
    right click powerstrip, display profiles, configure, it should say 5760x1200 or whatever, click advanced timings and adjust them to increase refresh rate

    if you saved the timings from earlier, disable realtimeclcok cahgne checkbox and paste them into the appropriate checkboxes, but they might not be 1:1 with what you had as a single display.

    my pixel clock 315.000 became 307.378, vsync went from 94.248 to 95.251 and hsync from 119.318 to 118.587 to match my 'saved geometry settings' in the monitor

    if you ever restart your computer (why would anyone need to?) just run powerstrip to re-enable your saved refresh rate. if you need to switch to eyefinity, but your side monitors say 'out of range', switch to 60Hz first, then enable eyefinity then increase the refresh rate via powerstrip

  5. Step five

    enjoy! check out http://widescreengamingforum.com/ for individual game fixes

TL;DR:
after enabling eyefinity, use the latest version of powerstrip to increase your refresh rate, it will only increase the middle monitor's

this wouldnt be possible without powerstrip, so if you want to support anyone who still supports CRTs, give your money to Entech
 
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