100% Working repair for Gateway XHD3000 30" LCD monitor

I wish gateway start making more stuff, because they make great products just underappreciated
 
While this monitor is a excellent monitor, just based on the fact that they would allow a problem like were all experiencing to be released w/out fixing the issue and just stiffing people on a near $2000 piece of equipment that seems for everyone to arise right after the warranty expires is despicable! I own this yes and love the quality picture but will never buy another item from gateway ever!! Fortunately I and a few other aren't afraid to crack open a $2000 display, but how many countless others who may be scared or unsure are there left holding the ball ???? Great picture lousy support... Thank God for Hard Forum and its members! :D
 
Everybody blames Gateway.
How about putting some of the blame on the other bigshot.
The one that made the board ! SAMSUNG !!
The lcd panel also has pixel line issues that shows up on either the right or left side and about 3 inches.
and some have a spot on the lcd that shows up when tapped or if the base on the sound is run high and causes screen vibration.
ALSO MADE BY SAMSUNG !
YES ?? NO ???

My friend has a Samsung 305T that went bad just before mine.
We just took it apart and are tackling this one next.
It has the same screen and controller board and inverter.
His took longer to fail .
We think it is because the 305T doesn't seem to get as bright as the Gateway , so bulb heat is less and thus has less affect on the Altera chip.

Just ordered one of the cooling kits like dirtdiggler did.
That's something Gateway and Samsung should have installed.
 
Maybe they did it intentionally (samsung) to thwart Gateways ambitions of the monitor biz?
None the less Gateway is the one who put their name on it and therefore should honor their name with service or at least some direction... Im just happy these guys found the issue and a very cheap fix for it
 
Mine had vertical band of rainbow lines and I tired heating the chip for 30 secs as suggested and my issues went away. Thanks a ton

In the process i removed the front panel connectors and put it back but the front panel touch buttons doesnt seem to be working now. I dont use the front panel much but I see the annoying language selection screen.

I tried connecting the front panel wire (flat thin white) several times , still not able to see power (blue lights) in the fp. I just need to get rid of the language selection somehow. Is there a work around?
 
avyaktha said:
Mine had vertical band of rainbow lines and I tired heating the chip for 30 secs as suggested and my issues went away. Thanks a ton

In the process i removed the front panel connectors and put it back but the front panel touch buttons doesnt seem to be working now. I dont use the front panel much but I see the annoying language selection screen.

I tried connecting the front panel wire (flat thin white) several times , still not able to see power (blue lights) in the fp. I just need to get rid of the language selection somehow. Is there a work around?
Click to expand...

you cant turn the language selection off with the remote anyway. its stupid i know, but doesnt work like that. just unplug your monitor and leave it for half an hour until it goes to sleep. then plug it back in and itll wake back up without the language selection there any more. the remote should work for power, and the other buttons should work after you get rid of the language selection thing. input and menu on the bottom should get you most of what you need to do.
 
Hi guys, I have a quick question for you. Gateway XHD3000 30" LCD monitor needs dual voltage power supply; 12v at 4.5 amps and 24v at 5.5 amps. Does anybody knows what is a pinout of four pin connector of AC adaptor used for that monitor?
Dual voltage AC adaptors come in different variations below is a sample picture of one pinout that I found.
laptopupgrade_2136_5609042
 
k&k said:
Hi guys, I have a quick question for you. Gateway XHD3000 30" LCD monitor needs dual voltage power supply; 12v at 4.5 amps and 24v at 5.5 amps. Does anybody knows what is a pinout of four pin connector of AC adaptor used for that monitor?
Dual voltage AC adaptors come in different variations below is a sample picture of one pinout that I found.
Click to expand...

my guess is that the 12v powers the huge power-hungry monitor (and sound bar if you have one attached) and the 5v powers the powered usb hub.
 
To the guy who's front panel touch display is no longer working. You have disconnected the small ribbon cable that goes from the units main board to the touch screen controller on the underside of the screen front panel piece. You will have to remove it by unscrewing the four screws holding the piece to the screen on the bottom and then re-connecting the ribbon cable to the board !
 
thank you all for providing and supporting these DIY fixes, especially revtech :)

I was able to apply the fix and my monitor is running again as good as new. It's quite a rewarding feeling to see it up and running again. thank you guys
 
Hi all:

I've been experiencing issues with my XHD3000, and I'd like to see if some of the fixes mentioned here could also possibly help me out. I'm not a solderer at all, so I'm hoping this issue can be fixed via other means, if it can be fixed at all.

About a year ago, the panel developed a thin pixel line towards the right-side of the monitor, and while annoying, it doesn't render the monitor that useless. The real problem is one that developed a couple of weeks ago. After a couple of minutes of being turned on, the screen will begin to flicker like crazy. The bottom 1" of the LCD ends up appearing 6" up in the flicker, and likewise, another flicker occurs at the top of the screen, about 4", which shows video from the center of the screen.

Unfortunately, I don't have a video camera, and this is REALLY hard to capture on camera, but this is the best I could do:

http://img706.imageshack.us/img706/2858/gatewayxhd3000flicker.jpg

Once it begins flickering, it never stops until the monitor is turned off for a couple of minutes. Sometimes the flickering starts after 1 minute, sometimes 10. It's always inevitable, though.

Is this problem the panel itself, or is it something that can be fixed via another means? Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks!
 
its probably a heat issue if it starts after a few minutes and goes away after the monitor has been off for a bit. i think that baking the board should fix it. same as the instructions in the OP, except that instead of heating the chip with a lighter, just put the whole pcb on a couple balls of tin foil in the oven for 8 minutes at 385 degrees F. thats what i did after doing the lighter trick like 10 times and always having it fail again, and i havent had to do it again since. or if you dont feel comfortable with that either, you can order a new board off ebay from one of the links mentioned in the last couple pages.
 
To Chix:
I was told that the pixel line is in the lcd panel is a problem with one of the ribbon connections between the lcd glass face and the top boards inside the actual screen.
This issue can show up on either side. It sometimes will clear up after the screen warms up and can sometimes be made to disappear temporarily by pushing the diagonally opposite 2 corners away from you while the stand is firmly in place.
I can't remember if it is the top-left and bottom-right corner Or if it is the opposite two corners for which side.
Mine was on the left and used to go away in the beginning but then it started getting wider an would only partly disappear.and then it stopped going away so I sent it to the ebay seller that I got the cooling system from for mine and so far it has been ok. This is not something that can be soldered.
The flickering is the controller board chip which a few solder joints have come loose on.
Chip needs to be repaired and should then be cooled.
 
Thanks a ton for the help guys, and also to the rest who posted in this thread (especially revtech).

After spending a good hour breaking the display down, I cooked the logic board in my oven for 8 minutes @ 375C as ekuest recommended, and once put back together, the flicker was no more. Now, I'm not naive enough to imagine I'm scot free, given the number of return appearances that some have mentioned in this thread, but to see the display not flickering up a storm is just... awesome.

Other related problems that I forgot about are even gone. I also had that discolored green haze (I forgot about it because the flickering dominated the attention), but no more. I still have that pixel line, and can't seem to get rid of it, but it's of such a low concern that it can't even be measured. The rest of the display looks GREAT, like brand-new, so I'm stoked.

Thanks again, you guys kick ass! I'll report back if the problem reoccurs, to help gain an idea of how long it takes for it to return with the oven method.
 
when i was doing the candle method i had to redo it every 2 or 3 days. i did the bake method about 3 months ago and havent had a problem since, so hopefully itll last you a while. congrats on the semi-success!
 
ekuest said:
when i was doing the candle method i had to redo it every 2 or 3 days. i did the bake method about 3 months ago and havent had a problem since, so hopefully itll last you a while. congrats on the semi-success!
Click to expand...

Well, it's been a mere couple of days and a problem DID re-arise. It's the haze to the left side of the panel, but it does seem to go away after the display has been turned off for a while. It's not a game-breaker enough to make me recook that logic board, but it does lead me to believe that the other issues might re-arise as well.

Perhaps I didn't cook the board in the oven long enough or something.
 
can anyone tell me if baking the controller board fixes the problem where the screen flashes black for a second or two every now and then? it fixes the green hue, but im not sure if thats another controller board problem or if its something else.
 
Hi folks, just signed up so I could post in this thread.
So the only problem I'm having with the monitor (so far) is the vertical rainbow band. Now reading through all of the posts, it sounds like my problem is with the 4 brown connector strips going to the board, and not the altera chip. I have exactly 1/4 of my monitor bad so it's obviously one of those four connectors. It used to go away after a while if I left the monitor on, like it was getting warmed up, then the strip would turn black for a few seconds and then it would work just fine, but now it just stays rainbow.

Anyway... since I'm not experiencing any of the other problems that seem to be fixed by heating the altera chip, what should I do? Maybe just open it up and check the ribbon connectors and make sure they look good and reseat them? I just want to get some opinions before I crack this thing open.
 
ekuest said:
can anyone tell me if baking the controller board fixes the problem where the screen flashes black for a second or two every now and then? it fixes the green hue, but im not sure if thats another controller board problem or if its something else.
Click to expand...

That is indeed another problem on another board. After I tried the baking fix on mine, the screen still flashed to black for a few seconds every couple of days.
 
nreidt said:
Anyway... since I'm not experiencing any of the other problems that seem to be fixed by heating the altera chip, what should I do? Maybe just open it up and check the ribbon connectors and make sure they look good and reseat them? I just want to get some opinions before I crack this thing open.
Click to expand...

I would try to open it up and take a look at the ribbon connectors. Just looking won't hurt anything, and maybe one will be so pushed out it will be apparent that that is the issue.

Post back what you find! :)
 
ok well I opened it up and inspected the 4 brown ribbon cables...

nothing looked out of the ordinary, there were two that were pushed in all the way nice and snug, and then two that were out a bit further, and one of those was fairly crooked. so I took them all out and looked at them and again didn't see anything wrong. plugged them all in nice and straight and pushed in all the way and put it back together.

no luck. still have the same 1/4 strip of rainbow.
 
Hmm, sounds like a bad TCON board then. Sucks, because they are not cheap to replace! You could try and do some of the ghetto methods listed in the previous pages of this thread.. worst case you would need to replace the board, which you may need to do anyway.

Good luck!
 
theterminator said:
:eek:Are you sure that it was a NEW board and not a repackaged old one ?

If unsure how to tell, I know someone who might know the difference.
Click to expand...

There is no way for me to tell the diff. I have a paypal claim open, so he is kinda cornered. Since I am the buyer, i have more protection that the lloyd and lauren people did, but I think I am done with the monitor.

Anyone want to by my flickering xhd3000? lol
 
ToMMyGuN said:
Just a follow up guys, DO NOT BUY FROM JOHN HARLAN. I bought one of his "new" cards because he gave me a discount, and the thing started flickering within the month.

This is not an isolated incident. This guy is a criminal!

He actually sent a jug of water in a box filled with packing materials so that the unsuspecting recipient would sign for the package (without opening it in front of the fedex guy), thereby closing the paypal dispute and giving him the money back! What a lowlife piece of sh!t.

This guy is crooked, stay away from him!
Click to expand...

FYI: he is now operating under different ebay ID's
samsung_repair and lcdrepairwarehouse :confused:
 
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ToMMyGuN said:
He actually sent a jug of water in a box filled with packing materials so that the unsuspecting recipient would sign for the package (without opening it in front of the fedex guy), thereby closing the paypal dispute and giving him the money back! What a lowlife piece of sh!t.
Click to expand...

That is really unfortunate, but I thought PayPal now has a "significantly not as described" clause where you can't just win any dispute by proving that something was delivered - it has to be what the buyer thought they were getting?
 
Hello, thanks for this thread.

I used the rebuild method and every 2-3 weeks, when the white screen (e.g. notepad) starts flickering, the board is landing into the baking oven for 10 minutes. I took the oven to 190 °C but its very inaccurate. My infared thermometer said there were 230 °C on the board.

With best regards
GFB
 
ekuest said:
can anyone tell me if baking the controller board fixes the problem where the screen flashes black for a second or two every now and then? it fixes the green hue, but im not sure if thats another controller board problem or if its something else.
Click to expand...

Black out is the altera chip overheating and shutting down. Probably has an overheat feature built-in to the chip ??
Sometimes will just flash off and back on, sometimes will go black and you have to restart or let it cool to get it back on.
Hitting the Altera with a heatgun while it is running will verify the issue. Probably need to get it between 150 and 180 degrees fahrenheit to see
rework may or may not work--guess it depends on if the loose contact is going to grab solder again or not.
 
imyourzero said:
That is really unfortunate, but I thought PayPal now has a "significantly not as described" clause where you can't just win any dispute by proving that something was delivered - it has to be what the buyer thought they were getting?
Click to expand...


Actually the post that was posted on this topic at lloydandlaurens is now gone !!??
NOW IT IS BACK
Link to full story on post 121
 
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my monitor just started having some weird shading, about 6 months after i baked the circuit board. just baked it again last night and it works great again. still better than the lighter which lasted me less than a week.
 
I have removed the cease and Desist order from the forum as I believe all applicable individuals have had the chance to read it! I will be checking the forms regularly to make sure the order is being upheld!
 
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