24" Widescreen CRT (FW900) From Ebay arrived,Comments.

I posted in another thread about this, but I have an almost great A7217A which is turning greenish. My blues aren't as blue, etc. I have it sitting next to a LCD and when I use the Prairie Wind background, something I'll assume most here have if they run windows, it is a green wind, not blue, as if it is mixed in. The grays appear a bit green, etc.

I obviously don't wish to lose this monitor, and I want to save it if possible. Is there a good calibration system which is inexpensive <under $100> that works well, or is there a professional monitor calibration place in the DFW area that anyone knows of? Other than some slight convergence issues, this monitor is great, and perhaps they could look into that too.

Note, I haven't changed internal settings, haven't used WinDAS for example, although if I can get this monitor back up, I'd try to do the same on my other one.. yes, I own 2 of these beasts, and while my newer 28" HANNS-G looks brilliant next to these, these used to outshine any other... They're getting old, darn it, but I want these to age gracefully. PM me if you have any ideas pls.
 
First a 30 minute warm up
Then use the Nokia test for the monitor
Use the on board color controls for the monitor
Tried using my Huey Pantone for color calabration messed the monitor up (deleted it)
It took me quite a long time to get the colors just right
 
headless said:
http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?p=1035009057#post1035009057

This was from an A7217A.
Click to expand...

Thanks for pointing this out to me headless.

The .dat file I'm referring to is the defaults.dat that you dump from WinDAS, it's about 14KB in size and contains all of the monitors internal settings, the same settings that get changed when you go through a full WinDAS calibration procedure.

My A7217A's was corrupted when I got it and the dump was missing values and had large gaps, and no matter what I did, it always resulted in an error when trying to download it.

So I used WinDAS to set everything to defaults, uploaded that .dat file to the monitor. It did take, and upon testing to see if it I could download it from the monitor with WinDAS without getting errors in the dump, I found it to download error free. Bad idea it turns out, this put in some settings that now prevents me from using the Geometry and Size menus properly in the menu. I did a full WinDAS calibration as a result and I still couldn't get the Geometry and Size functions to work properly.

So I'm thinking I need a defaults.dat that's is sourced from the A7271A itself. It doesn't have to be the original defaults for a A7217A, just an uncorrupted defaults.dat that is not a WinDAS generated one that comes from the menus. It's ok if it was edited by WinDAS.
 
I'd be interested in picking one of these up if someone has one for sale within 12 hours driving time of Jackson, MS. Shoot me a PM.
 
dever said:
Thanks for pointing this out to me headless.

The .dat file I'm referring to is the defaults.dat that you dump from WinDAS, it's about 14KB in size and contains all of the monitors internal settings, the same settings that get changed when you go through a full WinDAS calibration procedure.

My A7217A's was corrupted when I got it and the dump was missing values and had large gaps, and no matter what I did, it always resulted in an error when trying to download it.

So I used WinDAS to set everything to defaults, uploaded that .dat file to the monitor. It did take, and upon testing to see if it I could download it from the monitor with WinDAS without getting errors in the dump, I found it to download error free. Bad idea it turns out, this put in some settings that now prevents me from using the Geometry and Size menus properly in the menu. I did a full WinDAS calibration as a result and I still couldn't get the Geometry and Size functions to work properly.

So I'm thinking I need a defaults.dat that's is sourced from the A7271A itself. It doesn't have to be the original defaults for a A7217A, just an uncorrupted defaults.dat that is not a WinDAS generated one that comes from the menus. It's ok if it was edited by WinDAS.
Click to expand...



Ahhhh, I understand. Damn :( I don't have the WinDAS cable, or i'd make you a file right now. Sorry mang - somebody else here's gotta be along to help at some point though, several people here use winDAS, and the HP branded fw900 is the most popular one i've seen around.
 
I'm a bit worried about mine, today the screen seems to be quite shahy haorizontally, keeps 'wibbling' for want of a better term.
 
Did that already, and tried a few different resolutions. I'm wondering if it's related to having been on for the past week. Oops.
 
roberta said:
Originally Posted by roberta
Widescreen Monitor page List [H]ardOCP
24" Widescreen CRT (FW900) From Ebay arrived
Reference Pages for Sony FW 900 on this thread
1. For most general links
65. Focus Pods Adjustment
84. Windas G2 default level adjustment
88. Maxdrive is increased for blacks Drive_Max to 250
91. Windas Installer
112. Gamma & Contrast
114. Link to pods
115.Focus Pods & Convergence
117. Pics to open monitor
118 .Drive max/contrast settings
126. ABL shutdown for contrast
141. G2 settings stock
143. Pics of G2 before and after
148. Windas guide for convergence test
151. Settings for color
160. Apply final step to save settings for convergence
171. Refreshrate Vista
184. Bezel replacement
191. Focus
196. Landing
204.Lower G2 to 130
216. DAT file (orginal)
234 .Black & Contrast Levels
248. White Balance
Made this quick reference list for myself when I got tired of searching this thread for quick answers!
Boiled down from 3 pages of a master reference guide
Who's got time to read 285 pages with multiple posts
Hope this helps
PS Still needs updating
Click to expand...

Thanks Ill add a link to this post on first page so it can still be updated if needed :)
 
mathesar,
Thanks for the props
I'll update it soon and look for my master list in the mean time
 
Volken8 said:
Lovesupreme,

I’m not at all interested in such application and I’ll leave others suggest your best LCD "3D" equivalent. But, this seems to be somewhat young market with defined models yet to come. I mean in sense of having range of proper selection among models and brand names.

But for sake of FW900’s good health, and provided yours is still in good shape, you really shouldn’t even consider any activity - in this case without any realistic prospect - with suggested refresh rates contemplation. What art thou good for when the only expense would be on FW900’s premature departure or hefty service attention? When I read how many people still craves for this model, and those of us still enjoying our good ones… be happy with your Sony and look elsewhere for fulfillment of suggested 3D gaming aspiration.
Click to expand...

I doubt 1280 x 800 @ 120Hz is any harder on the monitor than 1900 x 1200 @ 85Hz (recommended resolution setting). If you look and the pixel clock it may even be easier on the monitor. I stand by my earlier statement that this monitor is probably the best available for 3D gaming. As for BluRay movies, I'm not sure how that will be implimented. I doubt it will be page flipping, which is the only technique that requires high refresh rates.
 
DDuckMan said:
I doubt 1280 x 800 @ 120Hz is any harder on the monitor than 1900 x 1200 @ 85Hz (recommended resolution setting). If you look and the pixel clock it may even be easier on the monitor.
Click to expand...


My comment was triggered after reading this : 1920x1200 with 120h

or, more precisely :

lovesupreme said:
it should do 1920x1200 with 120hz refresh rate ;that's what bluray 3D " ultra" movies will need to work using this glasses technology-not for just playing games. so now here's the crux- can this monitor be tweeked or tuned up or rev'd up to the above resolution?
Click to expand...

...
 
Wow I haven't been in this thread since I bought my FW900 a while ago but someone finally put together a reference list?!! This thread needed it sorely. Anybody can recommend a good cheap calibrator for this monitor? My screen leans toward blue and if I can get rid of that I'd be frackin golden.

- Wanted to add that you might want to put post # in addition to page number for the list, as some might have larger # of posts per page like me. My total page number for this thread is 190
 
It's a ever changing and growing reference list
Just one that suited my needs when I got 2 of these monitors
The thanks to Warren comes from mods he made and certain Windas features that at the time where beyond area of expertise
Finally tweaked I wouldn't trade them for the world they blow away everything in the 24' market
My 30' HP is the only thing that gives them a run for the money

Patone Huey
It messed up my colors and had to recalibrated by hand to get it back
Go figure
 
Last edited:
dever said:
Thanks for pointing this out to me headless.

The .dat file I'm referring to is the defaults.dat that you dump from WinDAS, it's about 14KB in size and contains all of the monitors internal settings, the same settings that get changed when you go through a full WinDAS calibration procedure.

My A7217A's was corrupted when I got it and the dump was missing values and had large gaps, and no matter what I did, it always resulted in an error when trying to download it.

So I used WinDAS to set everything to defaults, uploaded that .dat file to the monitor. It did take, and upon testing to see if it I could download it from the monitor with WinDAS without getting errors in the dump, I found it to download error free. Bad idea it turns out, this put in some settings that now prevents me from using the Geometry and Size menus properly in the menu. I did a full WinDAS calibration as a result and I still couldn't get the Geometry and Size functions to work properly.

So I'm thinking I need a defaults.dat that's is sourced from the A7271A itself. It doesn't have to be the original defaults for a A7217A, just an uncorrupted defaults.dat that is not a WinDAS generated one that comes from the menus. It's ok if it was edited by WinDAS.
Click to expand...

AFAIK the A7217a and FW900 only differ externally, so a dat file from an FW900 should do the job.

According to the list roberta posted, you can get an unmodified .dat from this post...
http://www.hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1033313218&postcount=4306
 
I've been collecting bits and pieces of everything needed for Windas and now that someone has pointed out the default.dat file, it is complete!

ive printed pdfs of the old website that was available, have the windas files and installer and the .dat file in one zip.

here is the link:

http://haste.4saken.org/windas/WinDAS.zip


if anything is missing, please tell me so i can add the file/files.
 
I see you're running Windows 7 64 on your rig Haste. Have you been able to get WinDAS working in 7, or are you using the WinXP Mode?

And thanks for packing up WinDAS for the community. :)
 
Bummrus[H]a;1035293887 said:
I see you're running Windows 7 64 on your rig Haste. Have you been able to get WinDAS working in 7, or are you using the WinXP Mode?

And thanks for packing up WinDAS for the community. :)
Click to expand...

my fw900 is sitting idle right now covered up in storage. havent used windas in forever so i havent had a chance to try it in windows 7.
 
Hey guys, I just installed Windows7 64bit but my FW900 will not run at 1280x800@120Hz like it used to on Vista 64bit and on XP 32bit.

Using a VGA cable off Input 1 on the FW900, with a DVI-A adapter on the end to connect to an Nvidia videocard, running the latest 196.21 driver.

I've read a lot about the problem, mostly on sevenforum, and tried a few programs from Entech to modify the inf file to do an EDID override. Unfortunately nothing has worked. I can not get 1280x800 resolution above 85Hz refresh no matter what inf I install. My target mode for gaming is 1280x800@120Hz.

Are any of you guys running Windows7 64bit with your FW900s above 85Hz? How are you doing it?
 
What vid card are you using, jdof? I had to use a hacked EDID (it's in one of my posts above) and add custom resolutions to the nvidia control panel. Then some games I also had to add force-refresh options to in-game. I'm using a GTX260.

Here's a link to my post containing my hacked EDID file and hacked monitor .inf for win7 64.. The hacked edid/monitor inf contains a 1280x800@130hz - not 120, sorry...

http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?p=1035009057#post1035009057
 
After the last Nvidia driver update I had the same issue on vista 64. The geometry slanted to the right and I had to tweek the monitors menu bias on every resolution that I like to use. Like you, I prefer 1280x800 w/120hz for reading; but I could never get the image to post correctly,it was like a dual screen but 20% was on the other.
So I tried 140hz. It worked.I had to do the geometry tweek to set the screen right-but BAM I have never seen a more stunning blast of brilliant ever. It blows away everything. A CHEER moment, whiter whites redder reds bluer blues I am thrilled . And when the vacuum cleaner runs the disturbance is minimal.
So try increasing the resolution -for me it became more stable and amazing.
Thats why I got so entralled and wanted to know the possiblity of this monitor hitting 1920x1200 120hz (or plus) so I could enjoy my bluray movies and maybe enjoy the new nvidia 3d glasses technology - which to date could be the greatest visual experience in the history of human beings.
I ask again:is it possible for this monitor to adapt to the not so future technology?
A curious mind need to know.
 
As far as i can tell, the highest refresh rate you could hit at 1080p is ~106Hz.

Maybe it would be possible to hit 120hz by replacing some electronics in the monitor with higher spec parts. Best to PM Unkle Vito (LAGRUNAUER) and ask him. He's the resident FW900 guru.
 
Anyone know what would cause a greenish tint on the whole image? The seller says it's not correctable via the OSD. Is this something of a cheaper, easier fix or is it a problem with the tube itself, in which case it's not worth trying to repair it?
 
Had just purchased (what I thought) was an excellent condition FW900 monitor off of ebay, last summer. Now, the monitor develop a sudden problem where it cycles through a "clicking" noise three or four times, when first powered on and never displays an image. I'm sadly now actually considering the Acer 120hz LCD that just came out, since finding someone nearby who still repairs CRTs is difficult and the cost of shipping this thing for repair is cost-prohibitive.

It's too bad; I really enjoyed this display.

:(
 
Glowingwind said:
Had just purchased (what I thought) was an excellent condition FW900 monitor off of ebay, last summer. Now, the monitor develop a sudden problem where it cycles through a "clicking" noise three or four times, when first powered on and never displays an image. I'm sadly now actually considering the Acer 120hz LCD that just came out, since finding someone nearby who still repairs CRTs is difficult and the cost of shipping this thing for repair is cost-prohibitive.

It's too bad; I really enjoyed this display.

:(
Click to expand...

Could it be the flyback transfomer needs replaced? Mine sometimes randomly more so seems like when its turned on for the first time after being off and cold for like a day worth, where when turned on the whole screen gets blurry like out of focus then either by turning it off and on again it will clear up or if you let sit like that for couple minutes it will by itself make that common popping noise and be clear. It only does this sometimes and besides this the monitor works awesome.

The flyback part costs like 100 bucks and you can do it yourself but you have to discharge the tube before working on the flyback and theres show you how's all over the net on search engines or youtube.
 
tgg said:
The flyback part costs like 100 bucks and you can do it yourself but you have to discharge the tube before working on the flyback and theres show you how's all over the net on search engines or youtube.
Click to expand...

I might perhaps try to repair it myself, although I've always avoided touching CRTs because of the rather dramatic haphazard potential of eletrocuting myself - the kind of silly circumstances I'd rather avoid on my epitaph.

The monitor acts as if it is stuck in a feedback, looping power cycle. You can hear it click on, then the characteristic 'bzzzzt!' and then immediately clicks off. IIRC, it eventually gives up, the LED goes to amber and sulks at me.

Banging it on its side failed to help, unlike in the movies. I've yet to find the "happy juice" insert, to convince it to cooperate and let me play Quake Live...

:confused:


Glow
 
Glowingwind said:
I might perhaps try to repair it myself, although I've always avoided touching CRTs because of the rather dramatic haphazard potential of eletrocuting myself - the kind of silly circumstances I'd rather avoid on my epitaph.

The monitor acts as if it is stuck in a feedback, looping power cycle. You can hear it click on, then the characteristic 'bzzzzt!' and then immediately clicks off. IIRC, it eventually gives up, the LED goes to amber and sulks at me.

Banging it on its side failed to help, unlike in the movies. I've yet to find the "happy juice" insert, to convince it to cooperate and let me play Quake Live...

:confused:


Glow
Click to expand...

Hmm then now sure if its 100 percent flyback issue ask this guy about your issue pm him: LAGRUNAUER this is his name here in the forums they also call him Unkle Vito or something like that. Explain your issue as much detail you can to see if its a known common issue you have.

Also post your issue here to:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1061724
 
quantum112 said:
Anyone know what would cause a greenish tint on the whole image? The seller says it's not correctable via the OSD. Is this something of a cheaper, easier fix or is it a problem with the tube itself, in which case it's not worth trying to repair it?
Click to expand...

You should check the first post of this thread and follow the Greenish tinge instructions.. If that doesn't help try to fix it with the Bias and Gain controls.. if that doesn't work and possibly before the rest try a different cable.. wiggle the cable (I am assuming you are trying the D-sub and the connector on the back of one of my 900's is bad) if it still persists get the RGBHV cable and try that.

Can't think of anything else.
 
make sure on an RGB test you are seeing all the guns fire. If a gun is out the image will take on a dramatic tinge.
 
Unfortunately I can't do any of that as this is not a monitor I actually own, but one I saw on eBay which I could import from another country - since it's in a town I'd have easy access to, I wondered if it would be worth getting it despite this "defect". So I can't really check or test anything except maybe asking him to.
Still, I don't think it's worth the risk, it's a fairly old, 2001 model, the guns are probably in pretty bad shape by now. I guess I'll just wait for something better.
 
Was just checking the US craigslist and found this - fatal misnomer! He wants $20 for it, someone might be really interested :p

God do I wish there were offers like this where I lived, 6 hours driving would be a no-brainer.
 
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