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ZOTAC GeForce 9300-ITX WiFi
- Thread starter King of Heroes
- Start date
Dangman
Ninja Editor SuperMod
- Joined
- Dec 15, 2005
- Messages
- 46,056
Yes that's a good deal for that motherboard, even if there was no rebate. It's already $20 cheaper than Newegg and includes free shipping. the $20 MIR is just icing on the cake.
As for the RAM, you would honestly not notice a difference in real world apps and games between DDR2 800 and DDR2 1066 RAM. So just go for the cheapest DDR2 800 RAM you can find backed by a major and reputable company and you'll be set.
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I didn't see this posted already, but Bit-Tech has a new review of low profile CPU coolers (choice is always nice):
http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/cooling/2009/06/11/low-profile-cpu-coolers-on-test/1
http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/cooling/2009/06/11/low-profile-cpu-coolers-on-test/1
The enzotech heatsink fits fine with no changes
I have to dig up a 40mm fan, but th mount for it looks like it will work great. Probably alot less vibrating/noise then just screwing it directly on
The scythe shurikan will fit over the enzo NB heatsink so long a there is no fan on the ENzo NB heatsink. No idea how ell it cools compared to stock as I am taking my mobo back and forth to work to fit a block I am making.
Just had enough time at work to cut the top. Not much to look at I know, but I am trying to keep it as simple as possible. This is the first time doing anything like this for me. Was goig to make the top also have built in attachments to an LGA 775 mobo, but that seemed too much for me and would likely cause a fail. Also would not make it easy for me to router the edge to give it a beveled edge look which I thnk will improve the look alot. Instead, I will just make little legs I can just screw into the block that will extend out to the mobo's mounting holes.. Hopefully cut the copper base tonight and maybe even mill the cpu area down to allow the NB to make contact with the base. The channel wll be very simple. Inlet right on top of the center of CPU with a simple as fine as Ican pin matrix I will cut out with a slitting saw. Then a nice clean path to the north bridge where the outlet will be. Maybe add a very course pin matrix on the NB as well.
I have to dig up a 40mm fan, but th mount for it looks like it will work great. Probably alot less vibrating/noise then just screwing it directly on
The scythe shurikan will fit over the enzo NB heatsink so long a there is no fan on the ENzo NB heatsink. No idea how ell it cools compared to stock as I am taking my mobo back and forth to work to fit a block I am making.
Just had enough time at work to cut the top. Not much to look at I know, but I am trying to keep it as simple as possible. This is the first time doing anything like this for me. Was goig to make the top also have built in attachments to an LGA 775 mobo, but that seemed too much for me and would likely cause a fail. Also would not make it easy for me to router the edge to give it a beveled edge look which I thnk will improve the look alot. Instead, I will just make little legs I can just screw into the block that will extend out to the mobo's mounting holes.. Hopefully cut the copper base tonight and maybe even mill the cpu area down to allow the NB to make contact with the base. The channel wll be very simple. Inlet right on top of the center of CPU with a simple as fine as Ican pin matrix I will cut out with a slitting saw. Then a nice clean path to the north bridge where the outlet will be. Maybe add a very course pin matrix on the NB as well.
Cov
Gawd
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2007
- Messages
- 917
The northbridge cooler looks better than the original one.
Pitty you don't have a sharp close up picture though.
Are you still going to compare the temps between the two coolers ?
One should think the copper one is slightly better.
Pitty you don't have a sharp close up picture though.
Are you still going to compare the temps between the two coolers ?
One should think the copper one is slightly better.
Cov
Gawd
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2007
- Messages
- 917
What made you choose the round cooler over the square one ?
The square one's fitting is
The round one is
The hole to hole distance on the mobo is 2.5" or 63.5mm .
I figured if the round one didn't line up with the mounting holes as is, I could always oblong the retention ring's hole or even make it a slot hole so that t could fit "between 60ish mm to 67.4mm" . However, I can't really change the sqaure nes max of 59mm to something larger. But turne out angling the mounting pen was enough to account for slighty shorer/longer holes.
Maybe the square one will fit since the round one is not a between Xmm and Xmm fit, but rather, this ring fits this and I was able to ft the ring rated for 67.4mm to the mobo I measured as 63.4mm. So possibly the mounting pen can be angled in enough to fit the square one as well. Try it out. I am not intrested enough for air-cooing to really worry about it. If my homemade block is a no-go, I will pobably buy an aftermarkt NB water block.
I will likely put my itx buid back together in my test-bench and get some temps with the stock NB block. Need to check-out thePSU before I start cutting up the cables anyway. When I do that, I don't know. (not doing it in case I need to RMA the psu as the cost to send it back and my personal time exceeds the cost of the PSU. Just want to make sure I am not dong all the cable work on a bad PSU lol)
The round one is
The hole to hole distance on the mobo is 2.5" or 63.5mm .
I figured if the round one didn't line up with the mounting holes as is, I could always oblong the retention ring's hole or even make it a slot hole so that t could fit "between 60ish mm to 67.4mm" . However, I can't really change the sqaure nes max of 59mm to something larger. But turne out angling the mounting pen was enough to account for slighty shorer/longer holes.
Maybe the square one will fit since the round one is not a between Xmm and Xmm fit, but rather, this ring fits this and I was able to ft the ring rated for 67.4mm to the mobo I measured as 63.4mm. So possibly the mounting pen can be angled in enough to fit the square one as well. Try it out. I am not intrested enough for air-cooing to really worry about it. If my homemade block is a no-go, I will pobably buy an aftermarkt NB water block.
I will likely put my itx buid back together in my test-bench and get some temps with the stock NB block. Need to check-out thePSU before I start cutting up the cables anyway. When I do that, I don't know. (not doing it in case I need to RMA the psu as the cost to send it back and my personal time exceeds the cost of the PSU. Just want to make sure I am not dong all the cable work on a bad PSU lol)
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Hey Folks,
I do have a problem, finding out my temperatures and fan speeds. I tried speed fan (only shows me core temp 1 & 2 and hdd temp). I tried other tools, but they either don't show anything or only very little information like speed fan. I tried to find something on the Internet and in this forum, but couldn't find anything. Can somebody help me?
After I performed the last BIOS update, I'm not able to control the MCP fan anymore. Did I do something wrong? Smartfan now works though.
My System:
Zotac 9300 itx-wifi
Intel Pentium Dual-Core E6300
2 GB RAM
ATI Radeon HD 4850
Sugo SG05
(Very proud of my system. First Computer I've ever "build" myself
. Works so perfect and is nearly completely noiseless.)
I do have a problem, finding out my temperatures and fan speeds. I tried speed fan (only shows me core temp 1 & 2 and hdd temp). I tried other tools, but they either don't show anything or only very little information like speed fan. I tried to find something on the Internet and in this forum, but couldn't find anything. Can somebody help me?
After I performed the last BIOS update, I'm not able to control the MCP fan anymore. Did I do something wrong? Smartfan now works though.
My System:
Zotac 9300 itx-wifi
Intel Pentium Dual-Core E6300
2 GB RAM
ATI Radeon HD 4850
Sugo SG05
(Very proud of my system. First Computer I've ever "build" myself
. Works so perfect and is nearly completely noiseless.)Have you updated to the latest nvidia geForce 9300 chipset drivers? I am running Windows 7 (64 bit) and had same problem until I grabbed the latest (May 6th, v185.85 ) which then enabled the GPU temps etc..
iirc its under the GeForce/Ion grouping... but if you just google nvidia and go to the download drivers link... you can enter the GeForce 9 series as a choice and your OS version... eventually you will get to this driver set (and they should all come from the same 185.85 package so don't worry about which road you take to find it)
iirc its under the GeForce/Ion grouping... but if you just google nvidia and go to the download drivers link... you can enter the GeForce 9 series as a choice and your OS version... eventually you will get to this driver set (and they should all come from the same 185.85 package so don't worry about which road you take to find it)
oh... and grab the monitor application while there too... it reports the most accurate temps for the mobo (imho) once the latest drivers installed.Hey Folks,
I do have a problem, finding out my temperatures and fan speeds. I tried speed fan (only shows me core temp 1 & 2 and hdd temp). I tried other tools, but they either don't show anything or only very little information like speed fan. I tried to find something on the Internet and in this forum, but couldn't find anything. Can somebody help me?
After I performed the last BIOS update, I'm not able to control the MCP fan anymore. Did I do something wrong? Smartfan now works though.
My System:
Zotac 9300 itx-wifi
Intel Pentium Dual-Core E6300
2 GB RAM
ATI Radeon HD 4850
Sugo SG05
(Very proud of my system. First Computer I've ever "build" myself
Thanks for your quick response.
I downloaded this driver http://www.nvidia.com/object/winxp_185.85_whql.html. While installing the installer tells me, that the nvidia setup programme can't find any driver that are compatible with the present hardware. Installation quits. Did I get the wrong driver?
What operating system are you using? Are you using WinXP?
I became curious about updated drivers after reading your post so I went to the nVidia site and dl'ed the supposedly correct driver for my graphics card and operating system (Windows 7 - 64bit). I checked my current driver and the one on the nVidia site was dated later than my current one so I decided to install the newer one. I uninstalled the current driver and attempted to install the new one and received the same error message you did about "not being able to find any drivers compatible with current hardware" and the driver wouldn't install. I had to revert to a restore point that I luckily decided to make before attempting the driver update. Frustrating.
I am not sure what is going on. Our hardware is different but we are running into the same problem.
I'm using Win XP Pro.
It's really a bit frustrating because everybody else gets informations about their fan speeds and temps
Windows XP 32-bit? Did you try installing the driver with your anti-virus program disabled? nVidia lists turning off anti-virus software because they say it may interfere with the correct configuration of the driver. Have you tried driver version 182.50 dated April 2, 2009 just to see if that one works? Another thing to try might be to attempt installing the driver in while in SAFE MODE.
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Yes, I'm running Win XP Pro 32-bit.
Running the installation with Anti-Virus shut down -> same problem.
The older Version of the chipset driver -> same problem.
Didn't try in SAFE MODE.
I don't get it. It shouldn't be that complicated to update the chipset driver ... you have any idea for my problem with the MCP fan control which is not existing in the "new BIOS" (04202009)?
Running the installation with Anti-Virus shut down -> same problem.
The older Version of the chipset driver -> same problem.
Didn't try in SAFE MODE.
I don't get it. It shouldn't be that complicated to update the chipset driver ... you have any idea for my problem with the MCP fan control which is not existing in the "new BIOS" (04202009)?
OC results anyone? Mine does embarassing 16.7% with e5200. PCB version is 01 (236-DA105-01J BF -> 4 phase cpu ps). Bios 0420. Stock voltage. 233,33 x 12.5 = 2917mhz (stock is 200x12.5). So 933 qfsb is the wall, 934 or higher won't boot no matter what (upping voltage, using mem divider, using only mem slot1/slot2, lowering cpu multiplier).
Memory I use: 2x2gb ocz platinum 1066 5-5-5 2.2V. I also tried 1x1gb ocz 800 4-4-4-15 and it didn't boot at 930 (didn't have motivation to look for max clock, 900 worked) 1:1 with 1.9v or 2.1v so I dare to suspect that this mobo doesn't REALLY change mem voltage (like cpu fan voltage on some pcb's like mine?). 800 cl4 spec'd 1gb stick should do 930 cl5 with 0.2v increase especially if it does 900 with "1.9v".
And another question: this board doesn't have a +5v standby. I bought iMON Inside for powering up using remote control. Works perfect. It takes standby power from +5V_AUX pin in psu connector. The mouse dock needs +5vsb in the usb port for charging the mouse. Can I use psu connector pin 9 (+5V_AUX) and pin 7 (GND) for for powering the dock? The mouse has a separate usb data receiver (stick) so I don't need to connect the data pins on usb header (usbp0/1- and usbp0/1+)?
EDIT:
Actually I have exactly same problems. Geforce drivers (185.85) not installing (vista 32, will soon install w7 64) and no mcp fan conrol. I guess we have same pcb versions. I bought mine from Germany a couple of weeks ago.
EDIT 2:
Setup:
e5200 @ 2917mhz, stock voltage
zotac 9300 wifi, nb @ stock voltage
2x2gb ocz 1066 cl5 2.2v
no optical drive (usb dvd until i get my ide to sata adapter)
seagate 7200.8 300gb
morex 150w (brick + dc/dc)
OCCT latest version large data set (I tested for 10min both times watching the zalman screen constantly)
1.9V: peak 91W (88-91W), in bios: 67W, in bios without hdd: 58W
2.1V: peak 92W (89-92W), in bios: 68W, in bios without hdd: 59W
Unfortunately I can't try the complete test yet (PSU) because of the gpu driver issue. I changed from 1.9 to 2.1v many times and results were the same every time (in bios without hdd) so it's pretty reliable.
Memory I use: 2x2gb ocz platinum 1066 5-5-5 2.2V. I also tried 1x1gb ocz 800 4-4-4-15 and it didn't boot at 930 (didn't have motivation to look for max clock, 900 worked) 1:1 with 1.9v or 2.1v so I dare to suspect that this mobo doesn't REALLY change mem voltage (like cpu fan voltage on some pcb's like mine?). 800 cl4 spec'd 1gb stick should do 930 cl5 with 0.2v increase especially if it does 900 with "1.9v".
And another question: this board doesn't have a +5v standby. I bought iMON Inside for powering up using remote control. Works perfect. It takes standby power from +5V_AUX pin in psu connector. The mouse dock needs +5vsb in the usb port for charging the mouse. Can I use psu connector pin 9 (+5V_AUX) and pin 7 (GND) for for powering the dock? The mouse has a separate usb data receiver (stick) so I don't need to connect the data pins on usb header (usbp0/1- and usbp0/1+)?
EDIT:
Actually I have exactly same problems. Geforce drivers (185.85) not installing (vista 32, will soon install w7 64) and no mcp fan conrol. I guess we have same pcb versions. I bought mine from Germany a couple of weeks ago.
EDIT 2:
Never mind, changing mem voltage does affect power consumption. I tested it with zalman mfc2.
Setup:
e5200 @ 2917mhz, stock voltage
zotac 9300 wifi, nb @ stock voltage
2x2gb ocz 1066 cl5 2.2v
no optical drive (usb dvd until i get my ide to sata adapter)
seagate 7200.8 300gb
morex 150w (brick + dc/dc)
OCCT latest version large data set (I tested for 10min both times watching the zalman screen constantly)
1.9V: peak 91W (88-91W), in bios: 67W, in bios without hdd: 58W
2.1V: peak 92W (89-92W), in bios: 68W, in bios without hdd: 59W
Unfortunately I can't try the complete test yet (PSU) because of the gpu driver issue. I changed from 1.9 to 2.1v many times and results were the same every time (in bios without hdd) so it's pretty reliable.
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hello mr. beardy, i posted my oc results about 10 pages back. I would suggest that you unlink FSB & mem, up your NB voltage to 1.15-1.2v, and if your proc can do it, you should be able to get arnd 1600QDR. I clocked 3.6ghz on my E2160 stable, and am now clocking 3ghz (1333 QDR) on my Q6600. Perhaps the board doesnt like 45nm, but right now i'm guessing your NB voltage is the prob
I have never overclocked with processor with a lower FSB than the mainboard, I had the idea that a higher multi lower fsb processor would clock higher, I hit an FSB wall at higher than 360 with an e8400 with the IGP on that i realy need, shouldn't you be able to hit that fsb at least?
This processor did 4.0 eeeeasy on my 750i FTW
Thanks joe_star! I feel a little embarrassed now Didn't even try unlinking... I did try dividers but it didn't seem to like them
Well 1600qdr did sound a bit optimistic and it was (especially with the cheapest 4gb kit I could get), but after your golden advice (unlinking) ~1450 was possible. I'm building this htpc for my friend and he doesn't care whether it's 4ghz or 1ghz, as long as it's fast He doesn't even play games, so this is more than enough. Anyway, after looking for optimal clock for the cpu (and disappointing mem clocks (both frequency and latencies)) I settled for 1333. With 128gb super talent ultradrive me and 750gb external hdd my friend will be more than happy with this 6.5 cm tall monster.
Here's occt and superpi 1m results:
setup:
vista32 (will be w7 64)
e5200 @ 4167mhz +0.2V (xilence 1u copper heatsink)
zotac 9300 wifi, mcp 1.20V
ocz 2x2gb 1066 @ 933mhz 1.9V
morex 3822 case 150w
panasonic bdrw
a fast sdd soon (i hope)
I ran the test case open 12cm fan blowing on cpu&mcp so I'll have to test how hot will this thing get in normal use. During stress test power consumption was 130w, so it's kind of ok (on the other hand no gpu stress). Atm (idle) it's 62w. I had to remove the irritating, useless 25mm fan from the power brick so I guess now I have to drill holes in it and add a dust filter.
Didn't even try unlinking... I did try dividers but it didn't seem to like them Well 1600qdr did sound a bit optimistic and it was (especially with the cheapest 4gb kit I could get), but after your golden advice (unlinking) ~1450 was possible. I'm building this htpc for my friend and he doesn't care whether it's 4ghz or 1ghz, as long as it's fast
He doesn't even play games, so this is more than enough. Anyway, after looking for optimal clock for the cpu (and disappointing mem clocks (both frequency and latencies)) I settled for 1333. With 128gb super talent ultradrive me and 750gb external hdd my friend will be more than happy with this 6.5 cm tall monster.Here's occt and superpi 1m results:
setup:
vista32 (will be w7 64)
e5200 @ 4167mhz +0.2V (xilence 1u copper heatsink)
zotac 9300 wifi, mcp 1.20V
ocz 2x2gb 1066 @ 933mhz 1.9V
morex 3822 case 150w
panasonic bdrw
a fast sdd soon (i hope)
I ran the test case open 12cm fan blowing on cpu&mcp so I'll have to test how hot will this thing get in normal use. During stress test power consumption was 130w, so it's kind of ok (on the other hand no gpu stress). Atm (idle) it's 62w. I had to remove the irritating, useless 25mm fan from the power brick so I guess now I have to drill holes in it and add a dust filter.
For gaming more cache is always good, there's lots of articles how cache impacts performance, here's a good example: http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/cpu/display/core2duo-e7200_4.html
For light htpc use this is a perfect cpu imho (less heat, high multiplier), but the most important factor was its price.
For light htpc use this is a perfect cpu imho (less heat, high multiplier), but the most important factor was its price.
Ruiner
2[H]4U
- Joined
- Aug 22, 2000
- Messages
- 3,093
The real comparison is e8400@3600 vs. e5200@4200, the rough limits of those chips with this board.
Well, this has been an interesting build for me. I've had this board since it was first released and before a "standard" build configuration had been decided on by group consensus.
Things probably would have been easier if I hadn't been deadset on making a small, quiet and cool-running HTPC. I don't have any pictures yet, but here are my system specs:
ZOTAC GF9300-D-E LGA 775 NVIDIA GeForce 9300 HDMI WiFi Mini ITX
Intel Core 2 Duo E6750 Conroe 2.66GHz 4M shared L2 Cache LGA 775 65W Dual-Core Processor
A-DATA 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400)
SAMSUNG 22X DVD±R DVD Burner with LightScribe Black SATA Model SH-S223Q
SIIG JU-91RW12-S4 9-in-1 USB 2.0 Card Reader/Write + Floppy
Thermaltake MeORB CLP0527 92mm CPU Cooler
Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II CL-C0034 Copper Fan/Heatsink
Western Digital Caviar Green WD10EADS 1TB SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5"
APEX MI-008 Black Steel Mini-ITX Tower Computer Case
picoPSU-120 12V DC-DC ATX power supply
Microsoft Windows Vista Home Premium SP1 32-bit
SageTV Media Center V6.5
According to the BIOS hardware monitor, when the system was in the case with the original 250W PSU and the retail heatsinks installed, the following temps were observed:
CPU Temperature: 65 deg. C
MCP Temperature: 72 deg. C
After I replaced the heatsinks with the Thermaltake products and switched to the picoPSU, here's what the hardware monitor reports (after 1 hr):
CPU Temperature: 27 deg. C
MCP Temperature: 58 deg. C
This is with an application of Arctic Cooling MX-2 and open-air testing. I'm pretty confident that the temps won't increase significantly when everything is put back in the case (not like before, at least). Also, the noise level doesn't seem to have risen by any large degree.
Things probably would have been easier if I hadn't been deadset on making a small, quiet and cool-running HTPC. I don't have any pictures yet, but here are my system specs:
ZOTAC GF9300-D-E LGA 775 NVIDIA GeForce 9300 HDMI WiFi Mini ITX
Intel Core 2 Duo E6750 Conroe 2.66GHz 4M shared L2 Cache LGA 775 65W Dual-Core Processor
A-DATA 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400)
SAMSUNG 22X DVD±R DVD Burner with LightScribe Black SATA Model SH-S223Q
SIIG JU-91RW12-S4 9-in-1 USB 2.0 Card Reader/Write + Floppy
Thermaltake MeORB CLP0527 92mm CPU Cooler
Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II CL-C0034 Copper Fan/Heatsink
Western Digital Caviar Green WD10EADS 1TB SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5"
APEX MI-008 Black Steel Mini-ITX Tower Computer Case
picoPSU-120 12V DC-DC ATX power supply
Microsoft Windows Vista Home Premium SP1 32-bit
SageTV Media Center V6.5
According to the BIOS hardware monitor, when the system was in the case with the original 250W PSU and the retail heatsinks installed, the following temps were observed:
CPU Temperature: 65 deg. C
MCP Temperature: 72 deg. C
After I replaced the heatsinks with the Thermaltake products and switched to the picoPSU, here's what the hardware monitor reports (after 1 hr):
CPU Temperature: 27 deg. C
MCP Temperature: 58 deg. C
This is with an application of Arctic Cooling MX-2 and open-air testing. I'm pretty confident that the temps won't increase significantly when everything is put back in the case (not like before, at least). Also, the noise level doesn't seem to have risen by any large degree.
Mine just booted up and worked, although it would only boot in safe mode at first untill i increased the latency of my memory. it doesn't like CAS 4 for some reason. 5-5-5-15 seems to be the lowest it will go. My bios version: 6.00 PG 2/2/09.
Does anyone know of a way to view the MCP and Chipset temps? I don't see them anywhere in coretemp.
Cov
Gawd
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2007
- Messages
- 917
I'm very much interested in buying the MeOrb ... would it be possible for you to post some nice pictures please ??
Thanks much !!
praxis1452
n00b
- Joined
- Jul 17, 2006
- Messages
- 49
so I went to frequency/voltage controls in memory, and I started to take my e8500 upto 3.5ghz and the upto 4ghz with a couple steps along the way. I upped the voltage to +.14, if Vcore stock is 1.225 then I should be getting 1.365 or a bit less because of vdroop. Think that's pretty safe for a 45nm part. 1.4v would be the upper limit.
Anyway I noticed that in cpu-z it's not actually showing a higher frequency. It's really odd. I go into the BIOS and the settings are all there. It shows the current setting to be stocks but under settings for the frequency tab, it shows the actual speed I want. And more odd is the fact that my processor actually runs hotter when I up the voltage but cpu-z doesn't detect any frequency change. wtf?
Btw, perhaps my mobo is just screwed up, but when I save and exit BIOS the computer doesn't actually shut off; I mean i waited over a minute. Then I just hold the power button to stop the power. I start it again, but it boots with no video. I hit restart and the video comes back on allowing me to access the bios and look at the settings. The settings which are as I left them, overclocked. Any ideas?
btw I'm overclocking the cpu with no vid card in because the cmos jumper and battery would require me to remove the vid card every time it didn't post.
Anyway I noticed that in cpu-z it's not actually showing a higher frequency. It's really odd. I go into the BIOS and the settings are all there. It shows the current setting to be stocks but under settings for the frequency tab, it shows the actual speed I want. And more odd is the fact that my processor actually runs hotter when I up the voltage but cpu-z doesn't detect any frequency change. wtf?
Btw, perhaps my mobo is just screwed up, but when I save and exit BIOS the computer doesn't actually shut off; I mean i waited over a minute. Then I just hold the power button to stop the power. I start it again, but it boots with no video. I hit restart and the video comes back on allowing me to access the bios and look at the settings. The settings which are as I left them, overclocked. Any ideas?
btw I'm overclocking the cpu with no vid card in because the cmos jumper and battery would require me to remove the vid card every time it didn't post.
Hmm.. didn't have any of those problems, but I had not turned on any anti-virus at that point. iirc, I installed Win 7 64 RC1... loaded firefox and tweaked some settings. Brought in a couple of temp monitoring tools (all not reporting GPU either) when someone suggested I try the nVidia tool. It was while on the nvidia site it dawned on me that the drivers and not the tool was the problem, did a quick search for Win7 drivers and found them... but I am certain I had not brought down the Anti-V yet and I don't think I uninstalled the other drivers first (it was late... and I dont recall doing that, but I think I would remember it if I had).
How do you disable C1E and EIST? i have disabled C1E (EIST i didnt find :/) but multipler and Vcore is still decreasing automatically. what is more, even when i set vcore +0,1 cpuz shows me still the same - 1,1875V @ x12,5 multipler and 1,15V @ x6 multipler. Because of that i cant OC my e5200 higher than 3.125 ghz - its last stable @ that f***ing unchangeable vcore....
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I'm very much interested in buying the MeOrb ... would it be possible for you to post some nice pictures please ??
Thanks much !!
Sure. I'll try and get some posted this weekend. I was pleasantly surprised that the CPU temp never went above 29 deg. C with the system idling out of the case for 6 hours. This didn't happen with the Intel cooler or the Silversone NT07-775, despite mounting each multiple times.
Just be aware that there is zero clearance for the MeOrb with the included PSU in the Apex case.
A little progress on making y my CPU/NB block:
There's a .375" copper plate for the base, a .125" copper plate for the intermediate top, a .375" aluminum and actal plate for the top. All of them are just rough cuts,well oversized, which although waste some material since I will be mllling all the excess down, will no leave me later oing...'oh crap, the copper base I made tha cost$30 an attempt isjust barely too small'. Think I'd rather waste a bit more shaving loss then a complete loss since I am just not that good lol.
Way oversized I will be sandwhiching em all together to mill the edges later. Lots of material to play wiith.
One version will be just the copper base and acetal top
The other version will be copper base with a thin intermediate copper top
That will prevent the aluminum top from making any contact with the water. Also, the aluminum top will be milled o have fins so it can provide some aircooling capacity to the CPU/NB. How well it will work, I don't know. I am doing it just because.
The base will be mllled, drilled and tapped to have an inlet right over the center of the cpu or so. I will be using a .006mm slitting saw to make a very fine pin matrix that will cover much of the cpu square. Rest will be an unobstructive flow path to the NB, where the outlet will be. NB will also have a pin matrix, but more course.
There's a .375" copper plate for the base, a .125" copper plate for the intermediate top, a .375" aluminum and actal plate for the top. All of them are just rough cuts,well oversized, which although waste some material since I will be mllling all the excess down, will no leave me later oing...'oh crap, the copper base I made tha cost$30 an attempt isjust barely too small'. Think I'd rather waste a bit more shaving loss then a complete loss since I am just not that good lol.
Way oversized I will be sandwhiching em all together to mill the edges later. Lots of material to play wiith.
One version will be just the copper base and acetal top
The other version will be copper base with a thin intermediate copper top
That will prevent the aluminum top from making any contact with the water. Also, the aluminum top will be milled o have fins so it can provide some aircooling capacity to the CPU/NB. How well it will work, I don't know. I am doing it just because.
The base will be mllled, drilled and tapped to have an inlet right over the center of the cpu or so. I will be using a .006mm slitting saw to make a very fine pin matrix that will cover much of the cpu square. Rest will be an unobstructive flow path to the NB, where the outlet will be. NB will also have a pin matrix, but more course.
praxis1452
n00b
- Joined
- Jul 17, 2006
- Messages
- 49
It's kinda funny this board. It's max OC is very sensitive to the temperature of the MCH. I can go all the way upto 1700 FSB, well boot at 1700 FSB, but as the northbridge starts to get hot, if it gets to 50-60C I can boot up. Gotta wait for it to cool all the way back down. Now in BIOS it also doesn't restart automatically if I go to high.
Still my MCH temps are way too high to be comfortable so I've dropped the voltage from 1.25 to 1.2 with a stock voltage of 1.1V. It is still at 70C after I run a stress test and reboot into BIOS as I can't find a temp monitor for it right now.
1.15V I can hit 1625 FSB
1.2V I can hit ~1650 FSB
1.25 I can just get upto 1670 FSB.
This is all with the MCH at around 60C. If I can keep it at 40-50C I can with 1.25V go all the way upto 1700. Haven't pushed it further than that but I'm sure it can go higher.
Damn the sugo 5 and no airflow in that area. The graphics card kinda cuts of the heat and I have mounted my cpu fan to partially blow on it, but it's still way to high..
Sad thing is I have an e8500 so 9.5 multiplier. I've got it upto ~3.92ghz right now, with barely a voltage increase. I started OC'ing by just putting at my max voltage and trying to work up the FSB, but now it seems that FSB is my limit and I'm working my voltage down step by step. From +.08 to +.02V it's still good. Hell the way it's going I might be stable at 3.92ghz at stock voltage on this chip. Makes me want to get a better northbridge cooler, but I the stock heatsink looks pretty big even compared to aftermarket ones. Can't stuff a huge cooler into this sugo5 case.
Ah well, I wanted, power in a small form factor, what I get lol.
Still my MCH temps are way too high to be comfortable so I've dropped the voltage from 1.25 to 1.2 with a stock voltage of 1.1V. It is still at 70C after I run a stress test and reboot into BIOS as I can't find a temp monitor for it right now.
1.15V I can hit 1625 FSB
1.2V I can hit ~1650 FSB
1.25 I can just get upto 1670 FSB.
This is all with the MCH at around 60C. If I can keep it at 40-50C I can with 1.25V go all the way upto 1700. Haven't pushed it further than that but I'm sure it can go higher.
Damn the sugo 5 and no airflow in that area. The graphics card kinda cuts of the heat and I have mounted my cpu fan to partially blow on it, but it's still way to high.
. Sad thing is I have an e8500 so 9.5 multiplier. I've got it upto ~3.92ghz right now, with barely a voltage increase. I started OC'ing by just putting at my max voltage and trying to work up the FSB, but now it seems that FSB is my limit and I'm working my voltage down step by step. From +.08 to +.02V it's still good. Hell the way it's going I might be stable at 3.92ghz at stock voltage on this chip. Makes me want to get a better northbridge cooler, but I the stock heatsink looks pretty big even compared to aftermarket ones. Can't stuff a huge cooler into this sugo5 case.
Ah well, I wanted, power in a small form factor, what I get lol.
praxis1452
n00b
- Joined
- Jul 17, 2006
- Messages
- 49
I tried that, I also increased the tension in the springs by using nuts and bolts w/ a plastic washer in place of the plastic pieces. Also my 2nd ramslot has been dead all along, partially explains some issues I've had, but I think I've already voided my warranty so w/e. 2gb of ram will have to do.
btw temp is at 73C at load or right after BIOS bootup.
btw temp is at 73C at load or right after BIOS bootup.
praxis1452
n00b
- Joined
- Jul 17, 2006
- Messages
- 49
Thinking of buying some type of chipset cooler just because I'd like to see what more I can push. running at 412.5 right now due to heat but I'm gonna add a silent 80mm as an exhaust and see what I can do with the MCH temp. If I can get it down to 60C I'll push 1.25V through it and see if I can get 425 FSB.
My e8500 does 412.5x9.5 at stock volts stable lol, makes me wish I could push it farther. Think on a full-size board, i could probably get mid 4ghz, maybe more.
My e8500 does 412.5x9.5 at stock volts stable lol, makes me wish I could push it farther. Think on a full-size board, i could probably get mid 4ghz, maybe more.
Sorry about the delay, the first time I read your request it didn't "click".
C1E, as you already figured out, appears as a separate option in the BIOS.
EIST, on the other hand, is controlled through the multiplier option. If you force a multi, like 6x, then EIST will no longer work.
Now, about a little history on C1E and EIST, which account for those voltage fluctuations. EIST (back then, SpeedStep) was first developed for the Pentium 3 Mobile, which allowed it to change between two states (originally, a restart would be necessary... lol). At that time, that's all it was.
Later, EIST also appeared in P4 and Pentium D, as well as P3-derived mobile parts (and I believe some mobile P4s also had it), as a way to lower the (hedious, in the case of P4 parts) CPU power consumption.
About the same time EIST appeared in non-mobile parts, Intel remembered there are CPU power states that need less power, the so-called HALT states (where CPU is idling, with little to no input needed). So they figured "hey, we can lower voltage when the CPU enters HALT state!". C1 is the highest halt state, hence C1E (Enhanced) as the name of the HALT state with voltage drop. Deeper HALT states (right now there are C1, C1E, C2, C2E, C3, C3E, C4, C4E, Hard C4E, and C6 - C6 only for select Atom parts, I believe) would eventually be made available for Intel CPUs.
Over time, Intel also figured out "hey, we have SpeedStep, and we know CPUs don't really need the same voltage levels at different multipliers". Behold, EIST like we know it. THAT'S why you keep having voltage fluctuations. C1E, like it is now, only tells a CPU something like "hey, if you're idle, then drop your multiplier to the minimum allowed, and also drop the voltage to the minimum programmed value" (C1E inherited some EIST capabilities, that's why RMClock can see two FID states in some Celeron parts, which don't have EIST). EIST is the REAL responsible for voltage fluctuations.
I hope this tiny bit of history can help about why voltage drops still occur even with C1E disabled. However, from what I've read, it appears to be something realy weird going on with this motherboard's voltage regulation code at the BIOS level...
Cheers.
Miguel