Gigabyte ga-ep45-ud3P motherboard

I am but haven't OC'ed at all yet. I am waiting for more information to come down the pipe ;)
I also just realized I that I had my fans on the back of the case turned the wrong way (ugh). Temps were 10-11 degrees higher than they should have been. Reversed them and I am down to 25 23 20 26 on cores 1, 2, 3 and 4 respectively. It's been a while since I have built a system.
 
When I first opened the .rar of the f7b bios from the link above, I got this error in winrar:

! C:\Documents and Settings\Zach\Desktop\ep45ud3p.F7b.rar: Unexpected end of archive

Then, when I extracted to a seperate location, I got these errors:

! C:\Documents and Settings\Zach\Desktop\ep45ud3p.F7b.rar: CRC failed in ep45ud3p.f7b. The file is corrupt
! C:\Documents and Settings\Zach\Desktop\ep45ud3p.F7b.rar: Unexpected end of archive

Naturally, I'm not going to flash with this file. Anyone know if something is wrong here?

For now I'm going to flash with the F6 bios. I'm still waiting to here back from Gigabyte about the change log between F6 and F7x.
 
Most people have the best luck with F4. Some with F6. But the biggest thing you NEED to do is change ALL the voltages from AUTO to NORMAL (or whatever voltage you read/heard is good) otherwise the mobo overvolts anything and everything hardcore especially once you start overclocking! :mad:
 
I have a question. If I am going to OC to 3.6 to start, what should I look at modifying first in the bios? Where should my tweaking begin? The only person I have seen here with my chip and mobo is DeadSkull but our ram modules are different. What should I do first?

Thanks!
 
Monkeyclaw said:
When I first opened the .rar of the f7b bios from the link above, I got this error in winrar:

! C:\Documents and Settings\Zach\Desktop\ep45ud3p.F7b.rar: Unexpected end of archive

Then, when I extracted to a seperate location, I got these errors:

! C:\Documents and Settings\Zach\Desktop\ep45ud3p.F7b.rar: CRC failed in ep45ud3p.f7b. The file is corrupt
! C:\Documents and Settings\Zach\Desktop\ep45ud3p.F7b.rar: Unexpected end of archive

Naturally, I'm not going to flash with this file. Anyone know if something is wrong here?

For now I'm going to flash with the F6 bios. I'm still waiting to here back from Gigabyte about the change log between F6 and F7x.
Click to expand...


Sounds to me like you just need to redownload the file is all. Here I rehosted it for you, extracts just fine. So if you have issues again, re-download it a few times until you do not >>
http://www.MegaShare.com/566121

http://www.mediafire.com/?gkdf3gxwfeg
 
Just pulled the trigger on this board & a Q9300 (got both from a local Micro Center). I took a couple of days to read thru the forums, but I still have a question in reference to the 'auto' settings in the BIOS. It appears that if I want to adjust the FSB for ANY reason what so ever, I would do well to manually set the CPU voltage in the BIOS to not exceed 1.4. I understand that with my current hardware (see sig), that there's a high chance that I'll have to upgrade my RAM & maybe my PSU, to hit 3.0GHz (that's the MAX that I'm willing to go, as I don't plan on upgrading for at least 1 yr.). But, if I run this setup at stock speeds, should I still change the BIOS settings from auto to normal, just to be on the safe side?
 
This has been partly covered a few times, but I'm still not sure what the right heatsink choice is between the three for my E8400:

Tuniq Tower (with bump dremel mod)
Thermalright TRUE (copper? black?)
Xigmatek HDT-S1283

I've had Thermalrights for years, so I'm leaning in that direction, though it is expensive. Lots of people seem to use the Xigmatek, and the Tuniq is now a contender with some dremeling. Is there a clearly superior choice among these three, either for fitment or price/cooling?
 
both the xig or true would be awesome choices, for me, im upgrading my tuniq to a true black in a few days.
 
harlanpepper said:
This has been partly covered a few times, but I'm still not sure what the right heatsink choice is between the three for my E8400:

Tuniq Tower (with bump dremel mod)
Thermalright TRUE (copper? black?)
Xigmatek HDT-S1283

I've had Thermalrights for years, so I'm leaning in that direction, though it is expensive. Lots of people seem to use the Xigmatek, and the Tuniq is now a contender with some dremeling. Is there a clearly superior choice among these three, either for fitment or price/cooling?
Click to expand...

I Dremel-ed my Tuniq Tower, and it now works fine. I wouldn't buy one new though if you don't have one. I think there's units with better mounting mechanisms, and getting the adhesive-backed bottom plate off my old board was a very messy business; in fact, I'm worried I might have damaged a trace on that board, won't know until I put it through testing.

If I were going new, I'd be tempted by Noctua's NH-U12P, due to their great cooling properties and great silent fan designs. Thermalright is extremely heavy, even compared to the Noctua and the Tuniq.

I've got the Gigabyte installed, but I'm having really wierd stability issues where the board will just reboot at random. I'm not sure what it is yet. I've manually set the voltage for the Q6600 to 1.325 (auto, it was 1.3) and brought my G.Skill 2 x 2GB kit to 1.84v (they're supposed to run between 1.8-1.9v, and the board has detected their 4-4-4-12 timings correctly). I'm wondering if I'm pushing the power supply too hard (550w Seasonic-built Antec Neo), or if it's that I'm running two of my three hard drives in RAID 1. I haven't had a lot of time to deal with it yet, and since cats always seem to be interested when you're working on something, I try to wait until my wife is around to keep them occupied.
 
LoneWolf said:
I Dremel-ed my Tuniq Tower, and it now works fine. I wouldn't buy one new though if you don't have one. I think there's units with better mounting mechanisms, and getting the adhesive-backed bottom plate off my old board was a very messy business; in fact, I'm worried I might have damaged a trace on that board, won't know until I put it through testing.

If I were going new, I'd be tempted by Noctua's NH-U12P, due to their great cooling properties and great silent fan designs. Thermalright is extremely heavy, even compared to the Noctua and the Tuniq.

I've got the Gigabyte installed, but I'm having really wierd stability issues where the board will just reboot at random. I'm not sure what it is yet. I've manually set the voltage for the Q6600 to 1.325 (auto, it was 1.3) and brought my G.Skill 2 x 2GB kit to 1.84v (they're supposed to run between 1.8-1.9v, and the board has detected their 4-4-4-12 timings correctly). I'm wondering if I'm pushing the power supply too hard (550w Seasonic-built Antec Neo), or if it's that I'm running two of my three hard drives in RAID 1. I haven't had a lot of time to deal with it yet, and since cats always seem to be interested when you're working on something, I try to wait until my wife is around to keep them occupied.
Click to expand...

my rig still does not push even 500w on full load. So im sure its not the psu.

When you say reboot at random, you mean when the board restarts randomly and downclocks itself because its not stable? Make sure everything is correctly put in, same thing happened with me, meaning ram was running @ 1.8V, Cpu wise only thing i had wrong was that the cpu fine clock was off, so it was 12 instead of the 12.5.
 
Thanks for the heatsink suggestions. I hadn't considered the Noctua model... I'll do a little more research on that and probably end up with either the True, Xigmatek or Noctua.

Edit: Just looked up some reviews of the Noctua and it's impressive! And the UD3P is on their compatibility list, so I think I'll give this cooler a try.
 
Casper312 said:
my rig still does not push even 500w on full load. So im sure its not the psu.

When you say reboot at random, you mean when the board restarts randomly and downclocks itself because its not stable? Make sure everything is correctly put in, same thing happened with me, meaning ram was running @ 1.8V, Cpu wise only thing i had wrong was that the cpu fine clock was off, so it was 12 instead of the 12.5.
Click to expand...
I decided to go back to basics. I disconnected all power cables, removed all cards, removed the RAM, and reseated everything. I also re-cabled two of my SATA connectors off the power supply with right-angle connectors instead of the rather bulky sort that had been packaged on the end of each cable, since clearance is tight in my Antec P160 case (I like mounting the drives so the cabling isn't visible).

I'm thinking it was one of the SATA data cables being kinked, or a problematic power connection. I have not had reboot issues since, and running my first two drives in RAID 1 has not been an issue. I've just reloaded XP, and am restoring data from backup; so far, all's well.
 
The Antec Neos have been known to die. I had that exact model do the same thing, totally random behaviour. Antec did not put the extra 60mm fan in there design that Seasonic used to cool a hotspot those particular models have.
 
Hey, do you have that link for the quad OC? Where they using the this board as well. I tried OC'ing to 3.6ghz last night and no go. It was not stable. I am a newbie to OC'ing and dont understand all of the voltage settings.
 
vick1000 said:
The Antec Neos have been known to die. I had that exact model do the same thing, totally random behaviour. Antec did not put the extra 60mm fan in there design that Seasonic used to cool a hotspot those particular models have.
Click to expand...
The early ones had issues, but AFAIK, they were resolved. I've had my Neo 550HE for two years now without issue, and have had a similar unit in a family member's system during the same time, also no issues.

I'll probably need to upgrade if I add a second Radeon 4850, but it's handling things well. I'm going to chalk it up to a bad connection somewhere that was resolved when I redid things.
 
rayv said:
Hey, do you have that link for the quad OC? Where they using the this board as well. I tried OC'ing to 3.6ghz last night and no go. It was not stable. I am a newbie to OC'ing and dont understand all of the voltage settings.
Click to expand...

So I see you've got a 65nm Q6600.

Settings

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showpost.php?p=3417686&postcount=280

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showpost.php?p=3489971&postcount=654

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showpost.php?p=3492597&postcount=670

The following post is very important. Seems to be the magic key to get the highest possible stable oc.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showpost.php?p=3491906&postcount=666
 
DeadSkull said:
So I see you've got a 65nm Q6600.

Settings

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showpost.php?p=3417686&postcount=280

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showpost.php?p=3489971&postcount=654

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showpost.php?p=3492597&postcount=670

The following post is very important. Seems to be the magic key to get the highest possible stay oc.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showpost.php?p=3491906&postcount=666
Click to expand...
Thanks for the post. I just looked at your sig and you vcore is 1.45. I know the max for q6600 is 1.5 but you are awefully close to that aren't you? What do your temps look like? How long did you stress it for and what app did you use?
 
rayv said:
Thanks for the post. I just looked at your sig and you vcore is 1.45. I know the max for q6600 is 1.5 but you are awefully close to that aren't you? What do your temps look like? How long did you stress it for and what app did you use?
Click to expand...

I use the supposedly most "extreme" stability testing method out there, IntelBurnIn test and temps are great provided that I keep the case open and stick an Ultra Kaze fan on top of the heatsink. I thought Antec 1200 would provide ample air flow but the stock fans just don't cut it all especially when the front air filters get clogged up. Max recommended vcore for q6600 by Intel is 1.5V, and after enabling LLC with the vdrop Im still under the max even in the following screenies.

The following settings passed 120IBT runs so thats really damn stable.

3864ocStable120Runs.jpg



388GhzocStable56runs.jpg


Provided that I keep the case open and stick an extra fan on, temps even with IBT at that speed/vcore dont go above 70C and in prime95 with same setup temps struggle to break 50C.
Definetly looking at getting the Coolermaster 932 HAF for the summertime, the option of sticking 4 120mm fans on the side sounds great to me.
 
Wtf, bios doesn't bother to set the CPU ref to what I set it to. Is EasyTune6 wrong, does the f5 bios for some reason change any value you try to set for CPU reference to 0.65V?
 
Not sure but from what I understand, F6 is supposed to be more compatible with easytune6. I thought it meant for overclocking though. Might want to read up on it.
 
Are you using a fan on the MCH/NB? If so, which one did you get? I am looking at getting one but I am trying to ask a few people what size, make, etc to get.
 
haug said:
Why cooling the north bridge and where is it located on the board ?

haug
Click to expand...

This is only in regards to overclocking. Apparently the MCH/NB needs cooling as you OC.

Check this link out:
http://forums.tweaktown.com/f69/gig...erclocking-general-bios-tweaking-guide-26112/

I used the technique for for finding out the max speed that my memory will go and it helped quite a bit. I am at 9hrs of prime95 blend with large FFT's with no errors. I have never gotten this far before. Usually it was giving me errors at about 20 minutes or so. I believe it was due to not correctly knowing or understanding the memory speeds.
 
DeadSkull said:
No fans there, yet.
Click to expand...

Ok. Just wondering. I may still pick one up just to cool mine for the summer time. It gets a bit warm here in cali. My temps are 52, 50, 52, 47 at load and I believe I am using a Vcc of 1.378 or 1.385v (need to check bios and see) with a Vdroop of 1.312v in cpu-z and easy tune.
As soon as I find out if this puppy is stable for 24hrs (maybe 36), I am going to try lowering the vcc and see if it is still stable.

I think the issue I was having before is that I was running the cpu frequency up too much. I could be wrong on this though. I was trying to get 400 FSB but from what I understand, the FSB is contingent on the memory and how fast it can go. For instance, I have corsair 4GB (2 x 2GB) DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) stock voltage 1.8 per the board (1.9 via corsairs site and 2.1 max for overclocking). I can run the FSB at a max speed of 329mhz using a multiplier of 3 giving my memory 987mhz! I was lead to believe that non micron D9 chips were horrible overclockers, but this kit seems to be decent I think. But then again, I am a bit of a n00b when it comes to overclocking.
 
rayv said:
What type of fan are you guys using to cool to north bridge? What size and brands are good? I was looking at the 40mm Evercool over at the egg http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835119049
Click to expand...

I was under the impression that the stock chipset cooling on the UD3P was perfectly capable of handling some pretty aggressive overclocks. Maybe it's the extra ounce of copper :) I thought it was in this thread, but it might have been on that overclocking guide at overclock.net... but I recall a number of people commenting on how cool the NB stays. It's also mentioned at the bottom of this review page:

http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/foru...e-ga-ep45-ud3p-p45-motherboard-review-15.html
 
Ok
Maybe cooling the NB will help me, i have oc the board (E8400 + Corsair Dom 8500) But as i go up in speed my Sata disks an programs seems to get slower (renspons time increases ???)

Can it be the problem ?????

haug
 
The board is equiped with a heatsink and heatpipe on the NB, is that realy not enough to OC ???

Or am i getting things mixed up

haug
 
harlanpepper said:
I was under the impression that the stock chipset cooling on the UD3P was perfectly capable of handling some pretty aggressive overclocks. Maybe it's the extra ounce of copper :) I thought it was in this thread, but it might have been on that overclocking guide at overclock.net... but I recall a number of people commenting on how cool the NB stays. It's also mentioned at the bottom of this review page:

http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/foru...e-ga-ep45-ud3p-p45-motherboard-review-15.html
Click to expand...

I was doing some reading on a forum and it was mentioned that purchasing a small fan for the NB/MCH might be a good idea for overclockers (not necessarily this board). I read this here on hardforum's also. I was just wondering if anyone was using a fan because I did not take it into consideration that the NB would get hot as you OC'ed more and more. Since I am not going for an extreme OC, might not worry about it. But as the summer months draw near, it's something to consider for myself.
 
haug said:
Ok
Maybe cooling the NB will help me, i have oc the board (E8400 + Corsair Dom 8500) But as i go up in speed my Sata disks an programs seems to get slower (renspons time increases ???)

Can it be the problem ?????

haug
Click to expand...

Load up HW Monitor and see what your temps are for the drives. I would assume the heat could cause the drives to slow down abit but I am not completely sure.
 
haug said:
The board is equiped with a heatsink and heatpipe on the NB, is that realy not enough to OC ???

Or am i getting things mixed up

haug
Click to expand...

Depends on the OC I would assume. I mild OC pro'lly not. But if you are going to be extreme with it, you may want to look into it.
 
rayv said:
Load up HW Monitor and see what your temps are for the drives. I would assume the heat could cause the drives to slow down abit but I am not completely sure.
Click to expand...

Or too high bus speed = errors = more rereads required = sloweeeerrrr
 
Yes I would recommend having some sort of active cooling on the northbridge. When I was first testing mine, I had used a 120mm (low speed) and it did a relatively good job keeping temperatures under 45°C on load.

I'm planning on returning to H²O, but don't really have the time to mess around with it when school starts. :/
 
SolidBladez said:
Yes I would recommend having some sort of active cooling on the northbridge. When I was first testing mine, I had used a 120mm (low speed) and it did a relatively good job keeping temperatures under 45°C on load.

I'm planning on returning to H²O, but don't really have the time to mess around with it when school starts. :/
Click to expand...

What were you overclocking from/to? Are you trying to say that you put a 120mm fan on the NB?
 
Cooling seems fine to me. Prime's been running for 31 hrs straight now without any errors and thats at 3.861 @ above voltages and MCH (northbridge) voltage at 1.5V.
 
DeadSkull said:
Cooling seems fine to me. Prime's been running for 31 hrs straight now without any errors and thats at 3.861 @ above voltages and MCH (northbridge) voltage at 1.5V.
Click to expand...

What are you idle and load temps looking like?
 
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