Danger Den Custom for 775 and 680i

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Kinyin

n00b
Joined
Dec 31, 2006
Messages
42
UPDATE
I have thrown out my original setup and replaced it with the following:

Danger Den TDX 775 Copper Water Block (Intel 775) /w 1/2" ID

Swiftech MCP355™ 12v Water Pump /w MCP350/355 & Alphacool Laing DDC Acrylic Attachment (1/2" ID)

Danger Den Black Ice GT Stealth 120 Radiator - Blue 1/2" ID

Tygon Anti-Kink 1/2" ID (5/8" OD) Tubing

Danger Den Fillport - Blue
Danger Den Fillport Reservoir (1/2" ID)

1/2" UV Reactive Leakproof T Fitting
Worm Clamps x10

Fluid XP+ Extreme Non-Conductive 32 oz. Liquid Cooling Fluid - UV Midnight Blue

Does it look like anything is missing or would that be everything I would need to get it running on my C2D? Note: I am no longer worried about a water block for the NB or SB. I will leave that to the heatsinks on the motherboard.
 
That pump is way overkill for 2 blocks, imo.

You'll also need something to cool your mobo's southbridge, since the stock cooler is a heatpipe connected to the northbridge, which will obviously not work when you remove that. If you want to go with water for that (why the hell not?) I believe a DFI-Expert chipset block from DDen will work. I'll let you know for sure by the end of the week when I put mine on.
 
I hope you understand how big the 1250 is physically. The thing is massive.
 
Update
I've decided to throw out the setup I posted because of many reasons, but foremost it was overkill.

Here is my new setup:

Danger Den TDX 775 Copper Water Block (Intel 775) /w 1/2" ID

Swiftech MCP355™ 12v Water Pump /w MCP350/355 & Alphacool Laing DDC Acrylic Attachment (1/2" ID)

Danger Den Black Ice GT Stealth 120 Radiator - Blue 1/2" ID

Tygon Anti-Kink 1/2" ID (5/8" OD) Tubing

Danger Den Fillport - Blue
Danger Den Fillport Reservoir (1/2" ID)

1/2" UV Reactive Leakproof T Fitting
Worm Clamps x10

Fluid XP+ Extreme Non-Conductive 32 oz. Liquid Cooling Fluid - UV Midnight Blue

I will only be watercooling my C2D.
Also, will the Danger Den TDX block fit a P5N32-E 680i motherboard?
 
It should. All the 680i's are the same (except for the striker) and I have an RBX on mine. The RBX actually hits a row of capacitors that are REALLY close to the zif on the i/o side, so I had to offset the RBX to get it to fit. The other side is more clear though, and with the TDX's asymmetrical design, you shouldn't have any problems.
 
M.D.K. said:
It should. All the 680i's are the same (except for the striker) and I have an RBX on mine. The RBX actually hits a row of capacitors that are REALLY close to the zif on the i/o side, so I had to offset the RBX to get it to fit. The other side is more clear though, and with the TDX's asymmetrical design, you shouldn't have any problems.
Click to expand...

So am I missing anything to this setup or would what I have listed be everything I need to watercool my C2D?

Also, with the Fluid XP, do I need to add water to it or do you just use that product?
 
Why are you going with the TDX instead of say the apogee? Apogee would be a better performing block and cheaper.

Also, that tygon looks cool. Anyone know anything else about it? Traditionally, the 1/2" ID carries 3/4" OD, whereas that one is only 5/8". With such a thin wall, I'd expect severe kinking, but that is "antikink" kinky
 
ziddey said:
Why are you going with the TDX instead of say the apogee? Apogee would be a better performing block and cheaper.

Also, that tygon looks cool. Anyone know anything else about it? Traditionally, the 1/2" ID carries 3/4" OD, whereas that one is only 5/8". With such a thin wall, I'd expect severe kinking, but that is "antikink" kinky
Click to expand...

Because I have read numerous reports of the Apogee leaking and I don't want to have to deal with it. Yes, there are ways to fix it, but if I need to I will upgrade later. The TDX should be fine for now.
 
Kinyin said:
Because I have read numerous reports of the Apogee leaking and I don't want to have to deal with it. Yes, there are ways to fix it, but if I need to I will upgrade later. The TDX should be fine for now.
Click to expand...

haha my apogee leaked on me too. The barbs just wouldn't go all the way in. Teflon tape helped it thread in better though for some reason and it's gravy now or appears to be.
 
In case anyone is still interested, I did get blocks on all the chips, but not without a few problems.



As you can see, the block for the southbridge sits right under where the gpu would be in the top slot. It looked like it would have cleared before I installed it, but the bolt ends up being dead center on the PCB. Someone is going to have to make a super low profile mount if you're going to get use out of the top slot. Fortunately, running a gpu in the bottom slot works perfectly fine, so as long as you aren't running SLI, it shouldn't be an issue.

The other thing I noticed is that the mosfets on this board get really, REALLY (150F by my guess) hot with no air running around them. Its perfectly stable, even at 3.6ghz from a stock 2.4 on an e6600, but I'm going to be looking into a better cooling solution.
 
Hey M.D.K.
I have a question for ya. I have the 680i board as well and am trying to run my video card (radeon x1900xtx) on the bottom pci-e slot like you are with your watercooling setup. The problem i am having is that when i boot up my system i receive a warning that i must move my vid card from pci-e slot 2 to pci-e slot 1. Ive looked around in the bios to see if there is a way to disable slot 1, or make slot 2 my primary pci-e slot. Sadly ive had no luck. How did you manage to get your system running with your card being in slot 2. Can ya help me out?

Thanks, Wilson.
 
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