Thinking About Bong Cooling Need Help

I need a project to do so I was thinking about making a bong cooler instead of doing liquid cooling. Since I won't need a radiator or resevore I was wondering how much it would cost me to build a Nuclear water tower cooling tower setup?

How big of a pump would I need, I want something that would be fairly quiet but flow ALOT I don't think the average pump will cut it.?

I'm thinking about using a rotoron 192 mil fan and possibly ducting my air conditionaing to it.

Thanks,

Heh, Bong Cooling is still liquid cooling dude...but eh, I will tell you my story.

About 6 months ago, I had this bright idea to make a 6 foot bong cooler. I went to my local home depot, bought 10 ft of 4inch pvc pipe, a T joint type pvc pipe deal, and end cap some pvc pipe cement, a shower head, and some mesh.

So, I cut it and make a bong. I fire it up with the mesh in it, and it was loud as f-ck, like, way too loud. I put a 120mm fan over the T thingy to blow air up, and it cooled about 3c cooler than my radiator setup. The bong was big, clunky and you couldn't even think about moving the computer.

What am I using right now? Radiator

I don't care, I want to duct my AC to it. I plan on using a 192mm 24v fan at 12 V it will be quieter than dealing with what I have now so that will be fine...Someday I may switch to a radiator but not for now. I only move my PC every 5 months or so to blow it out.

In addition to the pump what would be a good waterblock for this type of solution? I'm thinking a high flowing block vs something like the river rapids block or anything similar to that..

Will post pics if I make it.

Oh yea, Probably only a 2.5 foot tall x 1 foot wide will be my goal.

get a dangerden TDX waterblock.

I think eyecannon is the guy to talk to about bongs.

that TDX looks nice, only thing is I only have a 1700+ and if I ever decide to go Athalon 64 I would be out $80

there are still a few of us old schoolers around
but PM Eyecannon
main things would be
bigger isnt necessarily better
you want a shower head that will give you small droplets
keep in mind the extra headfeet involved, and the shower head constriction for the pump
the more air the better, (also causes the greatest evaporation)
evaporation is a bitch, have it autofill (Friar Tuck built one into his toilet )
youll need a screen to avoid "sprites" at the top (mist up and out)
change out the water regularly, growth and corrosion is a pain, you end up living with additives venting out the top, unless you duct them
overall your good for a few degrees below ambient


AC Considerations (Hybrids)
evaporative coolers are common preconditioners for ACs
if you duct the air output to the radiator air intake you can increase its transfer through the enhanced differential temperature

Dual Stage Evaporative Coolers
a dual stage evaporative cooler is one in which the airstream is cooled but kept dry (heat exchanger)
and the water cooled then both put through a second phase where the air gains moisture lowering further, and what your more concerned with the water as well

http://www.cti.org/whatis/coolingtowerdetail.shtml[/url] (types)

basic physics involved
latent heat
latent heat of vaporization \ latent heat of evaporation
Evaporation and vapor pressure
Evaprative Cooling Dewpoint Index

Well my friend just ducted his AC into the side of his aircooled case and damn that works good!

I thought that a bong cooler would be fun to make untill I can afford a radiator and rez...(Eventually maybe)

Can I just use the Tubing from home depo up to the pump? Then use Sme better tubing for the inside of the case?

Glad to see your still here Ice

I plan on mixing the water with Engine Ice, which is a non toxic coolant that appears to be better than Water wetter in some instances. I'm not sure how expensive it's going to be for distilled water though...About how much would a bong cooler go through in a day? A gallon? Would I have to keep adding engine ice?

I found a radiator with shroud for $45 for 120mm I have a 120 mm intake ducted into the front of my cumputer I only have old pics that are not up to date but I can post some tomarrow if it would help.

Im not sure if it would be worth to bong cool, But I can only spend $100 besides the water block maybe 120 if I push it, and I don't see any cheap pumps

Ok guys, I really need some recomendations for a pump that can do bong cooling or a heatercore in the future...I found a cheap place for the TDX block.

Also how much tubing would a setup like this require aproximately? 15 feet good? I have some 3/4 or 1 inch tubing form home depot in my garadge also. i was thinking about putting good tubing in the case and using cheaper stuff for the stuff outside.

sorry I have to sleep eventually

I used a 500GPH Little Giant, I got as a pull untailed
the capacity really matters on the scale and total height you employ
Ive seen some pretty big bongs and some pretty petite ones
I picked my pump cause it was $35 and reasonably highflow
(actually got 2 of them) I cant recall the total feethead,
but pumping a 3 or 4 foot elevation change, plus friction loss and shower head constriction adds up, since the objective is lots of small droplets (and high evaporative rate with high airflow) a pump slightly larger than your typical incase high flow might be called for, however "pump heat" still applies

personally I wouldnt want to be breathing evaporated Engine Ice or anything else and would duct it out (adding to the friction in the air circuit) but it its a hybrid bong AC that will pay some dividends

another option is two seperate circuits, with a heat exchanger coil in the bottom of the bong, CPU > pump > heatexchanger being one circuit,
shower head > reservoir\heatexchanger > pump > being the other

if you are going to use an additive use the stuff typically sold for swamp coolers
and plumb it with the same metal all the way through to forstall galvantic corrosion
or even a sacraficial anode (zinc)
all that evaporation really adds up to alot of crap, so make it easy to maintence and dont rely on it to be 24\7 without a swtchover circuit, being able to take it offline and clean it out will avoid alot of otherwise nasty growth\deposits, even if your using water wetter\engine ice and venting it

oh and a strainer might not be a bad idea, mineral deposits that break loose being caught before the block

alot of members employed insulated Ice chests as a reservoir, with submersible pumps, just adding the tube to the top, would be a good solution if a heat exchanger was involved and is easily drained\cleaned

thanks, I'm not sure what you mean by a switchover circuit? You mean like a valve that switches it into a loop while I take the bong out to clean it up?

How much water will I lose a day?

Everything will be copper and brass barbs in the loop. I was looking at the AquaXtreme pumps and was wondering if they were any good? what about a Swiftech or EHEIM?

I think I am going to get the TDX Socket A block and stick with my 1700+ doing 2400MHZ on air...

I have a spare Cooler I was going to throw away I guess that would be a good Rez

yup, just some way to keep it up and running yet remove the bong from the loop, if for instance yor folding 24 \ 7
other wise its simpler to just take it offline

the amount of water loss is greatly dependant on the total airflow, and the relative humidity of the air, the drier the air to start, the more cooling is possible and the higher the evaporation rate

it can really be a pain to use your typical coolant mix in a bong, especially if its effective, replacing alot of distilled water, huffin the additives ect.

Which is why I mentioned Friar Tucks toilet
another option would be say a garden, where you drain the water out daily and replace it
using tap watter if its not too heavy in mineral and salts, you basically distill those out given enough time, or buy distilled water and just keep replacing it, in any event youll need to consitently fill the bong and clean it

these are the real reasons they became passe
that and the couple of degrees below ambient they provided wasnt worth it
would be potentially different if the dual stage was employed, that can theoretically get to with a degree of the total difference in dewpoint but its still just a few more degrees in most cases
and if the output where scavenged to assist an AC as a precooler

how effective it will be overall is greatly depend on your climate

as far as pumps go, well I havent actually had my hands on those...
copper and brass would be a problem without an inhibitor or scraficial anode
in a normal application it would be all that bad, but pitting a waterblock...

so the AC would not help that much?

here are some pictures of my friends setup I took tonight.





His computer is freezing!

the TDX waterblock uses brass fittings so I should not get it?

Update..........








Here is a picture of my Case as it is. Only despite the pictures the LED on the switch as well as teh front intake are Compleatly RED, not purple.

It will be a VERY tight fit since this case was origionaly designed around the narrow Pentium 2 boards. I will probably need a larger case to add a resevoir and radiator, but we will see how I like the bong cooler first. It's the OLD version of the OLD InWinQ500



As you can see in this picture I have quite alot of Shit, Crammed into quite a tiny place. I think I can fit 2 3/4 inch tubes to the CPU though.

So I still need to know why using brass fittings like the TDX uses would be so bad for this setup? Should I use a different waterblock with plastic fittings?

What is my best bet for a pump that can take the resistance?

thanks,
JI

I use an AC to cool my computer currently (but its removing alot of room heat as well, monitors ect)

the AC would help immensely, however its not really energy efficient

if a dedicated AC was part of the loop (AC output to bong to AC condenser\radiator)
it would pre-dry and cool the air, the bong would cool the water and the air (adding moisture) and the output cool the AC condenser (radiator)

however if the loop was attached to the intake side of the AC what would happen is the moisture laden air would frost over the AC evaporator, and it wouldnt be able to dry that much moisture continuously

so if you follow the pattern here, your removing air from your room, cooling it, feeding it to the bong, and ducting it outside to the AC condenser
while this increases the AC effieciency (higer differential temperature on the condenser side for transfer) your basically making a very poor trade for the energy used as the only output is the cool water

and if your where simply to immerse the evaporator in the resivor instead (a chip chiller) the results would be at least an order better, then you could still use the bong as a precooler for the AC (air) or the reservoir

water circuit
water block > bong > reservoir w\ evaporator > pump >
air circuit
room > bong > AC condenser

which is a common industrial setup, but adds in the problem of not using additives again
and its unlikley youd actually need a precooler for the evaporator\reservoir

definately PM Eyecannon, he got some of the best results, used his longer and insvested more tweaking into it than almost any other member as I recall

Justintoxicated said:

so the AC would not help that much?


His computer is freezing!

Click to expand...

He means it fails prime95, it runs battlefield vietnam flawlessly. My A/C temps are lower then most water cooled systems anyway.

IDLE : Case: 7°C, CPU Socket: 21°C, CPU Diode: 28°C, Fan 1: 4963RPM

Ice Czar said:

I use an AC to cool my computer currently (but its removing alot of room heat as well, monitors ect)

the AC would help immensely, however its not really energy efficient

if a dedicated AC was part of the loop (AC output to bong to AC condenser\radiator)
it would pre-dry and cool the air, the bong would cool the water and the air (adding moisture) and the output cool the AC condenser (radiator)

however if the loop was attached to the intake side of the AC what would happen is the moisture laden air would frost over the AC evaporator, and it wouldnt be able to dry that much moisture continuously

so if you follow the pattern here, your removing air from your room, cooling it, feeding it to the bong, and ducting it outside to the AC condenser
while this increases the AC effieciency (higer differential temperature on the condenser side for transfer) your basically making a very poor trade for the energy used as the only output is the cool water

and if your where simply to immerse the evaporator in the resivor instead (a chip chiller) the results would be at least an order better, then you could still use the bong as a precooler for the AC (air) or the reservoir

water circuit
water block > bong > reservoir w\ evaporator > pump >
air circuit
room > bong > AC condenser

which is a common industrial setup, but adds in the problem of not using additives again
and its unlikley youd actually need a precooler for the evaporator\reservoir

definately PM Eyecannon, he got some of the best results, used his longer and insvested more tweaking into it than almost any other member as I recall

Click to expand...

I see your point but it's not too big of a deal right now, it's jsut something I',m going to do because I can (hopefully) Usualy it will run off the room air, but when My dad flips on the AC, I'm going to steal some of it (Use my vent for the PC and blow air into my room with a fan if it's really that hot.)

Chew, I ment your computer is freezing cold!

I PMed him and I'm hoping he replies.