Gigabyte Z87 Discussion Thread

I have a Z87X-UD3H on the F5 Bios and I've had some odd boot issues. If I reset (button) the computer because of a crash or whatever the computer often gets stuck in a boot failure loop. Like it will boot, fail, try to boot again and fail over and over again. If I turn it off and boot it back up it will often continue doing the same thing. I have to unplug it from the wall and wait a bit before booting it back up again. That doesn't always fix it right away either though. Sometimes it takes multiple attempts at unplugging it. This was especially annoying when testing my overclock and having to clear the CMOS. I shut the PC unplugged it and hit the clear CMOS button and when I try to start it up again I would often be stuck in this endless boot failure mode. This doesn't happen unless I do something like use the hardware reset button or shutdown the PC and unplug it so I can change a fan or something.

Anyone else have issues with boot failures? I also had a cold boot issue this morning. I had a boot failure and it automatically booted again without issue.
 
Stock clocks with F4 BIOS on Z85X-OC with crappy stock heat sink cpu vcore set to 1.05v.
DRAM frequency at 2400 mhz

basetempsHWstockheatsinkstockspeeds.jpg

Valid CPU-Z under 100% load: http://valid.canardpc.com/2850637
 
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JohnleMVP said:
I have a Z87X-UD3H on the F5 Bios and I've had some odd boot issues. If I reset (button) the computer because of a crash or whatever the computer often gets stuck in a boot failure loop. Like it will boot, fail, try to boot again and fail over and over again. If I turn it off and boot it back up it will often continue doing the same thing. I have to unplug it from the wall and wait a bit before booting it back up again. That doesn't always fix it right away either though. Sometimes it takes multiple attempts at unplugging it. This was especially annoying when testing my overclock and having to clear the CMOS. I shut the PC unplugged it and hit the clear CMOS button and when I try to start it up again I would often be stuck in this endless boot failure mode. This doesn't happen unless I do something like use the hardware reset button or shutdown the PC and unplug it so I can change a fan or something.

Anyone else have issues with boot failures? I also had a cold boot issue this morning. I had a boot failure and it automatically booted again without issue.
Click to expand...

I could be wrong but this sounds like an issue with the dual BIOS. First boot fails with BIOS 1 so it tries to boot again with BIOS 2 and when that fails it starts all over again. This happened to me with a GB P67 board a few years back and was caused by an issue with memory (that's what the post code indicated). I had to stop using the XMP profile and enter more conservative memory settings manually.
 
Thanks, I'll look into that. I'll test my memory and see if I find anything.

I'm also seeing errors when trying to start up EasyTune. I get the message "An error occurred while trying to receive an event: Not found" about 6 times. This is after working just fine the first few times.
 
JohnleMVP said:
Thanks, I'll look into that. I'll test my memory and see if I find anything.

I'm also seeing errors when trying to start up EasyTune. I get the message "An error occurred while trying to receive an event: Not found" about 6 times. This is after working just fine the first few times.
Click to expand...

You could also ask about that specific issue in this thread over at Overclock.net: http://www.overclock.net/t/1397693/...ncluding-th-club-discussion-issue-report-club . Sin0822 and others are helping users with all kind of issues with Z87 Gigabyte boards.
 
I can run stable 4.3GHZ with 1.15v and I can post into BIOS with [email protected] with memory 1.65v,2400mhz, CL 9 but I can't get past the Windows 7 boot up screen.

Could it be I have a good chip but my motherboard is giving me grief? I have a good batch number according to people at Xtreme systems.


If this chip is worthy I'm going to delid it and keep it.
 
Water cooling added and temps and performance looks decent.



1.18v with 44x multiplier. Haven't done alot of stability testing at this setting but I have done a quick run of Intel Burn test and based on this test alone I can probably run any other application that I have (gaming mainly).


4p44770k.jpg



http://valid.canardpc.com/2853900[/QUOTE]



Physics score on 3dMark11 breaking 12,000 at 4.4GHZ, memory at 2400mhz CL9.

http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/6820895

Still not certain if the 4770k is worthy for delidding.
 
I'm hoping the stability problems are worked out in the F6 bios soon. The slow data transfer on SATA/RAID is definitely a problem for my rig. My RAID is pulling 222MB/359MB read/write in crystal disk (that's not a typo), and I've backed up those numbers in HD Tune, HD Tach, and the Samsung Magician software. Considering a single VR can pull 200MB in the same test, something is seriously wrong.
 
Jeremy C said:
I'm hoping the stability problems are worked out in the F6 bios soon. The slow data transfer on SATA/RAID is definitely a problem for my rig. My RAID is pulling 222MB/359MB read/write in crystal disk (that's not a typo), and I've backed up those numbers in HD Tune, HD Tach, and the Samsung Magician software. Considering a single VR can pull 200MB in the same test, something is seriously wrong.
Click to expand...


My raid 0 with Samsung 840 is not performing right either. Also get alot of AO failure to boot codes.
 
F6 BIOS is out of beta now. Haven't played too much with tweaking but it may have some higher potential than F5 did. Where stock voltage I would lock up at 4.3, I was able to run the newest linpack successfully. My RAID speeds have picked up a bit as I hoped, but not quite where I want them yet. I'm about to go stupid and add a cache drive to my raid so who knows what's going to happen next. :D Glad I only keep Steam on that drive!
 
I have a gigabyte board and one thing that will help with cold boot/reboot issues is hit alt+f10 (uefi bios) or alt+f12 (standard bios) before the logo appears in booting to backup secondary bios from main. But before you do that, if you have updated the bios at all you really have to hit load optimized defaults. According to gigabyte some bioses won't fully "update" until you do this.

So far this has cleared all issues with cold boot problems on my board.
 
Planning to get the GA-Z87X-OC soon, does anybody have this board and is it good? Can you actually overclock the CPU with those onboard buttons and will it automatically set the voltages for you or is it better if you do it manually through the BIOS? And how is the POST time on the board?
 
I finally built my new Haswell based computer today, based on a Gigabyte GA-Z87X-OC.
When I installed the memory, I flipped the slot clips back and inserted the modules. But didn't hear the usual click that confirms it's fastened. Thought it was a bit strange. When I went back to reseat the memory just to be sure, It turns out I managed to break both memory slot clips. Apparently I bent them too far backwards... :(

Never happened to me on any motherboard before. Why the heck don't they make a block or something to prevent that from happening!? Have contacted Gigabyte about that hassle.

Apart from that the board is okay I guess. I don't think the BIOS is as well laid out and user friendly as ASUS.
 
John Vuong said:
Planning to get the GA-Z87X-OC soon, does anybody have this board and is it good? Can you actually overclock the CPU with those onboard buttons and will it automatically set the voltages for you or is it better if you do it manually through the BIOS? And how is the POST time on the board?
Click to expand...



I have that MB and those buttons work but are better off being used with shots of liquid nitrogen.

The problem with the MB is it has cheap VRM design which is used in much cheaper Gigabyte mother boards. I'm not pleased with it.

I think you are much better off getting the UD4H which has double the CPU phases on the VRM.

If you plan on getting into comptetive benchmarking with liquid nitrogen you are better off getting the Force. The Force would be much better for everyday over clocked gaming as well.

Gigabyte seems to be having problems with the International rectrifier digital PWM and VRM parts used to power CPU and memory. I'm not happy with this MB. Also look at MSI Mpower MAX and ASUS hero. I think both of those are better choices in this price range.
 
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Got my replacement memory slot clips in the mail today! :D
That was quick. I have to say Gigabyte support seems to be very good, the person I conversated with was nice and even asked how the damage happened.

Now the tricky part will be to get out the rest of the broken clips from the memory slots...
 
I have a similar issue with my z87x-ud4h. It will sometimes get stuck in a boot loop until i clear cmos. My Pc will randomly shut off also while im using it... On f6 bios and everything is updated. It also wont power off when o shutdown my pc. Have to manually hold down power button on case and force it to power off even though windows shuts down.

Any ideas?
 
ran into UD4H having a problem detecting my Samsung Spinpoint 1TB & 0.5TB drives

it initially could see the 1TB HDD, but after a restart could no longer see it

tried reseating the cables, trying different SATA cables, updating BIOS, & different slots

putting them into the Marvell controller SATA slots ended up working. I have a SSD & a DVD drive connected to the Intel SATA controller slots which are detected and working fine.

Windows 7 sees the HDDs as removable hardware though. not sure if that is supposed to happen with the Marvell controller.
 
UD3H F7 bios released today with micro code rev 9 stock. At least they've moved up from 7 that was in F6. I didn't get a chance to play with rev 10 (or whatever they are on at this point - have not checked). Nothing major it seems according to release notes, but any update is better than nothing :)
 
Rogue007 said:
I'm having quite a few probs with the UD3H, I started a thread here-
http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1778982&highlight=
Would appreciate any feedback any of you with these boards could give. Gotta spend tomorrow rebuilding an old pc to try out parts.
Thanks.
Click to expand...



Make sure you get the most up to date BIOS available. Google for modded BIOS at Tweaktown. Best around.

Is your UD3H C2 revision?

I think the haswell integrated VRM causes alot of problems. Z87 seems to have so many problems. I can't recall this many problems with a new chipset.

Good luck.
 
I would try the F7 first, then the modded BIOS if it's still not working.
But yeah I went through similar shenanigans with my UD4H outputting display to my 780. Don't know if it was F6 or F7 that ultimately solved it, but if you're still on F2 you're making it alot harder on yourself :/
 
Which of these Gigabyte mobos is the best in terms of price/perfomance?

Thanks!!! :)
 
At the moment, I would say the Asus board(s). Simply too many odd things going on this with these boards to give my approval. If I could go back and start over, I wouldn't have gone GB this round.

Rogue - posted in your other thread. Might have an easy answer for you.
 
Kitarist said:
Which of these Gigabyte mobos is the best in terms of price/perfomance?

Thanks!!! :)
Click to expand...


UD3H then UD4H.

At UD4H pricing you should look at Asrock Z87m OC Formula because it simply rocks in terms of build quality, feature set, BIOS, memory compatibility. Great MB.

If you are into over clocking with liquid Nitrogen the Gigabyte Z87X-OC is decent mb but I wouldn't pay more than $180 for it because of its relatively cheap VRM design and limited feature set.

At around $215 the Asus Maximus VI Impact is an awesome mb and if you you only need 1 video card slot its a great mb for the money. Huge feature set and good build quality. Also the most up to date chipset C2 revision. Really good mb for the money.


The above mb are the only Z87 chipset mb that have caught my attention in terms of feature set and value.
 
Udgnim said:
ran into UD4H having a problem detecting my Samsung Spinpoint 1TB & 0.5TB drives

it initially could see the 1TB HDD, but after a restart could no longer see it

tried reseating the cables, trying different SATA cables, updating BIOS, & different slots

putting them into the Marvell controller SATA slots ended up working. I have a SSD & a DVD drive connected to the Intel SATA controller slots which are detected and working fine.

Windows 7 sees the HDDs as removable hardware though. not sure if that is supposed to happen with the Marvell controller.
Click to expand...

Same thing here with the UD5H and it's driving me nuts. Tried a few older WD drives with no issue, but with the F3 it refuses to show up in bios.
Because it was not detected it would not spin up, this has now gained me a nice "failed" on spin-up using HDtune even though the drive is fine.
There is something wrong with the Z87 or bios, it hates Samsung drives.

Adding it to the Marvell works great. Do you have it set to cache off?, that might explain the removable flag.
Answer me this, when you put your Samsung on the Marvell controller did your HDD light stay on constantly bright? It does with me regardless of what drive I use.
This is not an issue with the Intel controller.
It's not my Lian-li case either.
33niaef.jpg
 
So has anyone tried out one of the Gigabyte Z87 boards with a dedicated hardware RAID controller?

I can't even seem to get it to be recognized (the board BIOS doesn't seem to want to load the card's ROM so OS's can't see it).
 
If there is any owner of Gigabyte board with C2 stepping, please let me know if there are any marks on the board or the box of newer stepping.
Would be appreciated.
Thanks.
 
I am still trying to work with GB to figure out why any HDD connected to the Marvell controller forces the HDD LED light to be constantly on solid.
I've used Marvell, Jmicron and even Asmedia onboard and cards and never ever had this issue.
No DVD drive is attached either, this happens even with one HDD attached and the ports do not matter.
 
I have Z87X-UD4H and i encountered some boot issues...
Sometimes(regularly once per week) my mobo refuse to see the boot drive,restart and it shows something like ''please insert correct boot drive''.
I have WINDOWS 7 Ultimate 64 bit/SP 1 proper installed to CORSAIR F3 90 gb ssd/sata III in AHCI mode. I also updated the bios to F7 thru @BIOS utility,everything went fine and load optimized defaults when asked. First my optical drive dissapear from system,than reapper and mobo tryes to set it as first boot device,resulting,of course,in a boot failure.
I said OK,and unplugged the optical drive from source and from sata port.
After that things went smooth for about a week,when suddenly my other ssd,CORSAIR F60 sata II installed in port 1,suddenly was not recognized by mobo! After a restart everything's back to normal...
Today,a BSOD occure,than restart and ''insert proper boot device'' - flip ''Delet'' button,and in bios i saw as first boot device...my sata II ssd with games on it!!!
I change the boot order to normal (P0 with CORSAIR F3 wich contains OS) and all is good from now.
I have a slight ideea about all this weird behaviour:
1) buggy bios,and it will continue to happens until Gigabyte release F8;
2) incompatibility betwen Intel sata controller and old Sandforce drives,wich can be adressed also with a new bios.
Despite all issues i believe this is a great piece of hardware,BUT with a mediocre software support and that can cause a lot of issues.
A friend of mine adviced me to not buy Gigabyte mobos,i ignore his words and,instead to buy MAXIMUS VI HERO,i ended up with this nightmare.
Please help me with some ideeas!
Thank you very much and sorry about my english (is not mu native language)!
 
I just built this using the Corsair H50 as the cpu cooler.

The good news is that the computer boots! Yay! I installed Windows, no problem.

The bad news is that I looked at my cpu temps in the BIOS and Yikes! The BIOS says my cpu is operating at 99C.

I have a hard time believing that. The BIOS also isn't picking up my radiator fan. However, all fans are on, and the system temps are about 30C. I've never felt cool air in a case before, but this case is very cool.

The obvious culprit would be the mounting of the cooler on top of the cpu, but that appears to be quite tight. Also, it was a real pain to put on. Having it screw down into the bracket was probably one of the happiest things to occur in this build. I could reinstall it, scraping off the thermal paste and replacing it with my Arctic Silver 5, of course.

I've not really touched anything else in the BIOS other than to set up boot order and to load optimized defaults.

Every build, I try to do something new. Last build, I overclocked for the first time. This build, I want to have my first go with liquid, even if it's closed loop. Then do an overclock that's stable enough and cool enough for long-term gaming.

Anyway, suggestions on the temperature readings? I've not yet updated the BIOS, in case there are faulty readings in older BIOSes.

Or am I fated to reinstall the dang cooler, which took the majority of the build time?

--ceolstan
 
Sounds like the water block isn't touching and the CPU is self throttling. There hasn't been any reported issued with temps being read wrong that I've seen with these boards. Only other issue might be the water pump isn't circulating.

Only way I could think of to check is to use in infrared thermometer and check the temps of the water tank at the inlet and outlet to see if you have a differential. If the water is same temp both sides, you have no movement. If the water is room temp or close to, then the block needs reseated.

At least the block is one of the easier parts. I had a hell of a time getting my radiator bolted down. Worst part all the way around.
 
So I completely reinstalled the water block. It turns out that the newer instructions fail to mention that only certain holes on the back bracket correspond to the holes in the motherboard. Hint: it's not the same hole in the same position, so you really do need to have the pins in the right places! Also, the only label on the part is in teensy raised lettering--not terribly visible to my over-35-year-old eyes.

Anyway, the temperatures are lower now, but at 50c they still seem to be too high. I'd have expected that at load.

My ultimate goal for this board is not extreme overclocking, but getting a long-term stable overclock. My primary use of the machine is for gaming. I do have productivity applications, but they don't need a lot of beef to them. :)
 
Man, I've been considering going h50 for the improved look... if that's how it went I think I'd scrap it after 2 goes and put my hyper 212 back on... I occasionally idle below room temp.
 
Bluesun311 said:
Man, I've been considering going h50 for the improved look... if that's how it went I think I'd scrap it after 2 goes and put my hyper 212 back on... I occasionally idle below room temp.
Click to expand...

I'd wait on that.

Today, I installed CoreTemp and discovered that all 4 cores were around 23c at idle. I don't have all the updated everything yet, so I'm not testing any kind of overclock at this point. I will do the basic test to see if I have a good oc or a poor oc candidate.

At any rate, the h50 seems to be working. I'll know more after load. Even so, the board UEFI shows the cpu temp around 50. I have no idea why there'd be such a disparity between CoreTemp and the UEFI.
 
Planning on building a pc soon with a 4770K and I had my eyes on the UD3H.. it seems like a well-rounded mobo for the price and it really fit my needs. I'm just afraid if it have any faults, I've heard of high DPC latency on it. Any reason that I should avoid it? Would appreciate any help.

By the way, these are the main options I could get from my local store. click

Thanks,
 
ceolstan said:
I'd wait on that.

Today, I installed CoreTemp and discovered that all 4 cores were around 23c at idle. I don't have all the updated everything yet, so I'm not testing any kind of overclock at this point. I will do the basic test to see if I have a good oc or a poor oc candidate.

At any rate, the h50 seems to be working. I'll know more after load. Even so, the board UEFI shows the cpu temp around 50. I have no idea why there'd be such a disparity between CoreTemp and the UEFI.
Click to expand...
The H50 was working, but I found that gaming drove cpu temperatures up to around 70C. I identified the culprit: a pin that I could not tighten, no matter what.

I have since ordered the 100i, which is much easier to install and the temperatures are awesome. An hour of OCCT can't get them above 70. In my giddiness, I set vCore to 1.2 and the multiplier to 46. The board didn't boot (heard the post beep, but it wouldn't go into BIOS), but that's okay. The conveniently placed CMOS button brought me back to bootable.
 
Rogue007 said:
I'm having quite a few probs with the UD3H, I started a thread here-
http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1778982&highlight=
Would appreciate any feedback any of you with these boards could give. Gotta spend tomorrow rebuilding an old pc to try out parts.
Thanks.
Click to expand...

Hello Rogue,

May I know what is the bios version presently on your motherboard?
Lately this board got F7 on GIgabyte link with PCIE compatibility.
http://www.gigabyte.com.au/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4481#bios
Can you try to check the bios?
If still won't go I think Gigabyte has latest beta bios F8k for you to check.
http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/28441-gigabyte-latest-beta-bios.html

Thanks.
 
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Gunner77 said:
I have Z87X-UD4H and i encountered some boot issues...
Sometimes(regularly once per week) my mobo refuse to see the boot drive,restart and it shows something like ''please insert correct boot drive''.
I have WINDOWS 7 Ultimate 64 bit/SP 1 proper installed to CORSAIR F3 90 gb ssd/sata III in AHCI mode. I also updated the bios to F7 thru @BIOS utility,everything went fine and load optimized defaults when asked. First my optical drive dissapear from system,than reapper and mobo tryes to set it as first boot device,resulting,of course,in a boot failure.
I said OK,and unplugged the optical drive from source and from sata port.
After that things went smooth for about a week,when suddenly my other ssd,CORSAIR F60 sata II installed in port 1,suddenly was not recognized by mobo! After a restart everything's back to normal...
Today,a BSOD occure,than restart and ''insert proper boot device'' - flip ''Delet'' button,and in bios i saw as first boot device...my sata II ssd with games on it!!!
I change the boot order to normal (P0 with CORSAIR F3 wich contains OS) and all is good from now.
I have a slight ideea about all this weird behaviour:
1) buggy bios,and it will continue to happens until Gigabyte release F8;
2) incompatibility betwen Intel sata controller and old Sandforce drives,wich can be adressed also with a new bios.
Despite all issues i believe this is a great piece of hardware,BUT with a mediocre software support and that can cause a lot of issues.
A friend of mine adviced me to not buy Gigabyte mobos,i ignore his words and,instead to buy MAXIMUS VI HERO,i ended up with this nightmare.
Please help me with some ideeas!
Thank you very much and sorry about my english (is not mu native language)!
Click to expand...

Hi Gunner,

Can you try the latest beta bios F8b for Z87X-UD4H?
I found the link for GIgabyte user to download latest beta bios for their motherboard.
http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/28441-gigabyte-latest-beta-bios.html

Thanks.
 
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