ASUS P8Z68-V Pro/GEN3 no post, help?

H

HeavensCloud

Oswego, not shitty as Buffalo
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Feb 7, 2008
Messages
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I just finished building this, then taking it apart, then rebuilding out of box. Computer will not post, no beeps, no video, nothing. All mobo lights come on, fans turn on, the TPU and EPU switches function. MemOK! light stays on, I have tried CORSAIR Vengeance 2 x 4GB DDR3 1600 as well and G.Skill variants in every combinations of slots with no avail. If I hold the button it will flash and do it's reboot thing but I never get any video or beeps. I started with the monitor hooked to my 6950, but onboard doesn't work either.

Build:
ASUS P8Z68-V Pro/GEN3
2500k
HX650
Antec P180
RAM stated above
Promilatech Megahalems
HD6950

Do I have a dead motherboard or if the CPU was dead (unlikely) could that cause no video? I'm very desperate for help.
 
I'll be damned. It was the Mehahalems. Stock cooler boots it right up. Now it's saying CPU fan error! Any ideas?
 
Solved that. Back on track. Just have to figure out whats shorting with the HSF.
 
Its the backplate thats shorting
Gotta be careful - there is megahelms and Super megahelms and megahelms rev B - all with dif mount systems. You did not mention your vers.
The rev B mount has same backplate as 1156 (1155) ThermalRight "B" bolt thru kit. There is also a universal backplate with 4 movable subplates version.

The prob is every P67 Z68 mobo backside trace layout is dif. The various HS backplates might clear one model but not another.
There are 5 smd capacitors in a row that must be cleared, and many tiny solder blobs that may wind up under the 4 arms that stick out. One must also not excessively PINCH the mobo. I have told dozens of people on forums to try the stock cooler when things dont boot or go dead, and all just ignore my advice.

On my P867 Deluxe there are smd interferences on my TR 1156 bolt thru, and I have prev posted pics here.
On my P867 Basic, the smd's clear the mount plate, but the solder blobs are underneath the arms, separated only by some thin soft black paint on stamped steel backplate.
On my basic ASRock Z68, there are no issues.
My P8Z68 VPro Gen 3 is the worst - smd's even closer

To make my deluxe "safe" I built a little simple fixture to mill clearance on one side.
To make my basic P8P67 safe I added four 5/32" hole neoprene flat washers to the backplate posts (Home Depot special HW drawers). They are .058 thick - perfect for backplate.

5xsyma.jpg


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FWIW the CM 212+ has pinch issues when tightening the 4 nuts with a big ass phillips on the nut socket.

Thank you for your post.

Addendum:
The new 2011 X79 require 90 lbs HS pressure (vs 70 for prev), so they have a new INTEL NO backplate system that eliminates this nonsense. Screws right into top of socket itself.
No more pinched mobo layers or shorted component leads.
 
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I can't figure it out. I'm using the rubber spacer on the backplate and I have used a magnifying glass, I am sure it isn't touching anything. The brackets on the front are all elevated and not near anything at all. It's not putting too much pressure on it because even if I just rest it on there it won't boot either. This ASUS is the touchiest board I've ever dealt with. I'm just going to find another cooler that doesn't use a backplate at all and throw this Mega piece of crap in the trash.
 
What megahelms exactly are you using?
Erm, the rubber spacer is for 775 only
2lyqs2.jpg
 
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I tried it with and without the spacer so I don't know what the deal is. I just cut an access panel in my mobo tray, I'm going to get a 212+ for now and move on to watercooling early next year.
 
I just tried to see if the hard anodized alum extruded mounting bars are conductive (able to short from one end to other)
Normally they arent, but a solder blob under ea end could make it happen due to sharpness of it and of threads on mount posts HW.

iyq7wz.jpg


and you MUST put those rubber rings between the mobo topside and the underside of the spacer body.

66erty.jpg


And you STILL have not told me which megahalem!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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Sorry, it's rev. B. I use the spacers/grommets/rubber rings, you have to or the screws fall out of the backplate.
 
The CM 212+ is also a pinching mount
Will be curious to see if you still cant boot
Please post back here to report on what happens - I am really curious about this
If so, you have a mobo prob.
FWIW I would get the 212+ EVO which has continuous (no gaps) exposed heat pipe design. Its $10 more
 
Got the Meghalems installed. Everything is running as it should be I think. The problem was with the RAM slots I believe. It was failing to post with both after I changed them, but when I reseated the DIMMs it would boot right up. Idling at 28 degrees now.
 
Thanks for this thread. I had a similar problem with an ASUS P8Z68-V LE and a Xigmatek Dark Knight CPU cooler:

My system would do the double-fake-boot with no beeps and no video. I had mistakenly installed the heatsink backplate without using the included electrically-neutral plastic spacers between the motherboard and backplate. Once I installed those, it solved my problem.
 
I have a kindof similar issue here.
Everything was fine (same motherboard + core i7 2600k) with stock cooler.
I installed a thermalright cogage which fits (with nearly no clearance) in my cooler master silencio 550.
I have installed the backplate with the four smallest plastic spacer.
Now at start I have randomly a bip + cpu fan error, reset and it boots. It doesnot look serious to double boot.
Any more ideas?
 
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i have this mobo and anytime i start it it keeps saying sudio disconnected then quickly connects(i already have a soundcard with x540 connected is that interfering with the onboard?)
 
Disable Realtek in dev man
Also look in soundcontrollers for other devices like bluetooth
 
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