FERMI 2 - CUSTOM water cooled case/system - Dual Stacker 832's - Work Log :)

]FERMI 2 - CUSTOM Dual Stacker 832 - sli GTX480's[/COLOR]

You can visit my entire post on EVGA FORUM - http://www.evga.com/forums/tm.aspx?high=&m=602083&mpage=1#602083


latest state of the build


VOTE FOR MY MODRIGS SETUP - CLICK THE LINK AND IF YOU LIKE THE SYSTEM, GIVE ME A +1
www.evga.com/ModsRigs/detail.aspx?BuildID=23510

Hi All
this is my first post to any forum, and 3rd attemp on here, stupid thing keeps deleting my post, ugh, bang head, bang head!!!

well im going to start off by saying this is a post for the build log of my new custome case/system which im calling FERMI 2

It was supposed to be called FERMI 3 but i sold off my FTW 480 today (money constaints).

the case is made out of 2 coolermaster stacker 832 cases which i think you guys will like

I have went through many revisions of this case and now have finally found one i like and that works well which is REV 4 right now

WHY I CHOSE TO CALL MY SYSTEM/CASE FERMI 2
Fermi is the name of a Nuclear power plant. I live in Windsor, Ontario Canada which is located across from Detroit, Michigan. Now there is an actually power plant near windsor and detroit (10-20 miles away) called FERMI 2. Its a nuclear power plant

since each gtx 480 is from the Fermi Family, I decided to call it FERMI 2. Ill be using 2 corsair 850w power supplies (2 generators), so Ill be putting 1700W or 1.7kW Capacity on the case maybe with red leds behind an engraved acrylic panel

Now if i decide to buy a 3rd GTX 480 (just sold my third one ... ) than ill be naming it FERMI 3.

Now there are 2 Fermi Cards (reactors), 2 cooling towers (2 radiators), 2 dump tanks (used for emergencies) (2 reservoirs), the the whole theme goes well with the case.

Let me know what you think.....

so


the system consists of the following:

Hardware:
Core i7 930
EVGA X58 4 way sli Mobo
Corsair Dominator GT 2000c7
2 - EVGA GTX 480's Super Clocked editions
1 - Corsair HX850w power supply
1 - Corsair AX850w power supply (will get it in 2 weeks as i sold one of my two hx850's that was with my HD5970 build)

Watercooling:
Feser 420 Monsta Radiator
Feser 360 Xchanger Radiator
2 - Swiftech MCP-655 Pumps
2 - EK MCP-655 X-TOP Ver. 2
2 - Koolance 120mm Reservoirs
EK Supreme HF cpu block (black + nickel)
EK Classified 4 way Full Motherboard Block
MIPS computer Corsair 6 Ram Block
2 - Ek Nickel/POM GTX 480 Blocks
2 - EK GF200 LINKs
EK Triple Link Parallel
1/2" Promochill white tubing
1/2ID 3/4" OD Black Bitspower compression fittings (diff types and sizes)
Koolance TMS 200 and 200 expansion board
2 - Koolance Flow sensors INS-FM17
3 - Noise blocker PK-3 140mm Fans (1700rpm)
9 - Xigmatek 140mm fans 1000rpm (3 for pulling air, 6 used as shrouds)
4 - Antec 200mm Fans
9 - Coolermaster 120mm R4 Fans

Case:
2 - Coolermaster Stacker 832 Cases
Custom waterjetted, bent and welded aluminum parts ( i will provide the CAD drawings for anyones use)

So thats the parts list for now, I am thinking of some editions with regards to sound card, low power vid card, usb 3.0 cards as well but I will post about those at a later date when the time is right

stay tuned, and i would appreciate your comments and insight

cheers

heres a pic of the stacker 832


im testing my first image post bare with me

enjoy

Almost all my hardware



tons of stuff

Time to put the radiators together.

I'm taping the Monsta 420 rad with 8-32 threads so that i can get long enough screws to tighten the fan and shroud assembly.



Drilling the monsta so i can tap 8-32 threads, notice the 1/8" aluminum sheet underneath to protect the fins and tubes from the bit.




Taping the 8-3 threads, all 24 of them (12 on each side).



First set of holes done turned out well, did a test with a 8-32 bolt and all works well with no biting.



the monsta 420 by feser all fully tapped out and ready for fan mounting.



heres a xigmatek 140mm clear fan with white LEDs with the fan cut out. Going to use these as my shrouds. 6 total.
Not sure if you can see, but the holes had to be drilled out bigger to accommodate the bigger 8-32 bolts.





Ill be using 3 xigmatek fans (which are queit at 1000rpm) as shrounds, 3 xigmatek fans as pull fans, and 3 noiseblocker PK-3 140mm 1700rpm fans as push fans.




Here are a pair of the NB PK-3's. I also had to drill the holes out bigger for the 8-32 bolts.



heres a shot of two xigmatek fans, 1 cut out, 1 fully intact.

Mounting Pics coming soon

more pics



Monsta radiator with 3 fan shrouds.



Test fit for the fans everything lines up ready to mount the shrounds and water jetted aluminum base plate.



Top fans mounted, bottom fans next.



the carbon fiber side peice is shiny wish i had a better camera



Monsta radiator with all fans mounted, Mistake from before, i meant to say only 3 shrouds for the top, bottom doesn't have fan shrouds.







shot of the bottom plate i had water jetted all mounted to the radiator this will go into the right side stacker 832. I have the CAD dawings avail for this peice if anyone wants it for fan spacing and such.



heres the feser xchanger 360 radiator which will be for my cpu, board, memory loop. The monsta is strictly for cooling the dual 480s.





the two gaskets for the Monsta 420 radiator

Here is a very basic drawing done in paint of how this case is going to look.

Time to take apart the board and put the Ek block on

heres the EVGA 4 way classified board that has 2 NF 200 chips on it for 4 slots running at x16
Slots 1 and 2 are related - NF200 1 - Channel A
slots 3 and 4 are related - NF200 1 - Channel B
slots 5 and 6 are related - NF200 2 - Channel A
and slot 7 is a lone slot. - NF200 2 - Channel B

If slot 1 is occupied and slot 2 is empty - slot 1 runs at x16 (if slot 2 is occupied than slot 1 and 2 are x8/x8)
(remember a x1 pcie card may and may not affect the speed of the x16 slot, it shouldn't)

If slot 3 is occupied and slot 4 is empty - slot 1 runs at x16 (if slot 4 is occupied than slot 3 and 4 are x8/x8)
(remember a x1 pcie card may and may not affect the speed of the x16 slot, it shouldn't)

If slot 5 is occupied and slot 6 is empty - slot 5 runs at x16 (if slot 6 is occupied than slot 5 and 6 are x8/x8)
(remember a x1 pcie card may and may not affect the speed of the x16 slot, it shouldn't)

Slot 7 always runs at x16, as it is not split or sharing with another slot.

My plan is - Graphics in Slot 5 and 7, Sound card in slot 1, Low powered video card in slot 3, and USB 3.0 card in slot 4.

heres a BMP of my CAD Drawing of the XL-ATX stand off spacing for the EVGA x58 4 WAY SLI BOARD.

I got the specs of the ATX standoff spacing from an official ATX SPEC PDF spec sheet. I than measured the rest with a micrometer, The size of the board is also on this image too







Board with the stock heat sink on



heatsink taken off, 3 pieces.



Naked 4 way sli board - notice the two NF200 chips.



Another naked shot but now with all the thermal pads installed on the board so now time to mount the block



This block was such a pain in the butt to get. I had one sent to me that was leaking, the second one was the wrong revision. Notice how on top of the south bridge the block seems to be grooved or machined down compared to the rest of the block. That is so the cards will seat properly.



Another shot of the board with block installed.

Heres a pic of the OLDER revision 4 Way block by EK. This will not allow the graphics cards to seat properly.

theres also a pic of the new block too



OLD revision, NO GROOVES






NEW revision WITH GROOVES of the 4 way sli block by EK.

The guys at Sidewindercomputers were awesome, he replaced the block twice (leaking and wrong revision) and than spoke to EK and they replaced it free of charge. I still have the old revision block, ANY TAKERS????

I wasn't even sure what I was looking at, at first... The idea is interesting but you could have accomplished all of that on an open bench casing. I'm not even sure that the 832 casings will be doing anything in that build except serving as decoration for the ends, since it looks like you want your mobo left on the top. Ok, maybe you can put your PSUs inside them? Looking forward to see it completed. Where did you mount the radiators? I see what you meant about that mobo block. It's weird how they didn't catch that. I mean the thing is designed for a 4 way sli board. You'd think they'd plug in video cards to test to see if it would fit.

Well here are the cards

all 3 of them. I sold the FTW yesterday, needed the cash I do miss is very much, having second thoughts of selling but oh well











Heres the EK GTX 480 POM/Nickel Block

and now for the Bottom









Pads almost all on, and thermal paste applied - MX-2 Got that at a local shop called PCOUTFITTERS for 10 bucks, haha USED 3 tubes already



Block fully mounted on the GTX480

now for some of the AIR COOLED card pics and tear down











all the thermal pads removed and pasted taken off and gpu cleaned with rubbing alcohol.

TIME TO SHOW THE STEPS IN BUILDING THE CASE !!!!!!!!!

here is the bottom of the right stacker 832. Originally i cut this in my 3rd revision of the case which you will bellow. The case was supposed to be 2.75 stackers high (50") but i found there to be too many challenges and it just wasn't stable at all.

so here are the pics of the 3rd revision, FERMI 2 - is 4th REVSION









notice thats the OLD revision of the 4 way sli block. I had paper towels under it so it would be easier to detect leaks

Now here is the bottom piece of the RIGHT stacker 832








Theres the bottom of the 832 stacker. It has the Mounting plate for the MONSTA 420 radiator being test fitted in

Notice the 1/16 x 1.75"wide piece of aluminum on the left as a support column/brace, just too thin, i was going to bend it, but than i wouldnt have been able to fit a 200mm fan on the back, so it was just a big giant pain.

Ok, now it's starting to make sense. You're not going to be using that middle aluminum block thing after all? Instead you're going to stack the two cases and... weld em together.

Ok here are the two side stackers.

The one with the cutout bottom is the RIGHT where the tfc feser xchanger 360 will go. Originally the hole was cut out for the 420 monsta radiator but i scraped rev 3 of the case.

here we go



theres the cutout, kinda sloppy, i will clean it up one day, ive gone too far to mess with it now, i will once i either powder coat or paint the inside



right 832 stacker from the back



here is the LEFT 832 stacker, its all stock, all my peripherals will be in here, DVD, bluray, HD's, i can even put a low powered system in here and maybe have it control the main rig via wireless device (using android, win 7, win ce 6) thats for later so



There are the two together

up next the custom middle part youre going to like this

TIME TO SHOW OFF THE MIDDLE CUSTOM PART

this part was cut using a water jet. The guys at FCF Customs in Windsor, Ontario did the cutting for me on their water jet machine.

Youll be suprised, its pretty cheap to get things cut. www.fcfcustom.com contact Mike Heidt, 519-737-7347, great guy. Fred is the owner, mike is the water jet/cad guy make sure you ask for Mike Heidt as there are two Mikes there.

Material used is 1/8" aluminum sheeting which i purchased at METALSUPERMARKET. You can call DAN hes a really awesome guy and they have awesome prices for metal.
Phone is 519-945-1995

ok now for the pics



AS you can see the window up front, 4 holes- 2 for each reservoir, and a bunch of different cutouts up top for wiring and such.



another shot of the middle top piece from the underside of it. window for the monsta rad is on the left



Here is the front of the MIDDLE TOP piece. Its about 593mm wide (23" and some inches dont remember) and 18.5" high.



Here is the top of the same piece (MIDDLE TOP). As you can see i have all the standoffs screwed in , you can also see the holes for the wires. The holes for the wires have to be individually drilled which i havent done yet. There are 104 holes in total so i can run each single braded wire from my PSU up to the board and Graphics cards.



I have a little more than half the holes drilled here using a #36 bit so i can tap 6-32 threads in there for the standoffs.



Theres my rotary tool with the dremel plunge router attachment that thing works great, and got it for 25 bucks brand new, I LOVE SALES
I spent an hour at Canadian Tire looking at diff tools and stuff candy shop



The big oval hole is for the sata cables, and the other 48 holes are for the graphics card wires



a closer look at the rotary tool. On a side note, you do have to cut the drill bit down so that it doesnt hit the base of the attachment and I did sand it a little so that it would fit a little better into the Collet of the rotary tool / dremel.




drilling away





The big holes were already cut out by the water jet.



There are the holes for the 2 - 8PIN EPS cables that will feed the CPU. (16 in total)

OK here are some pics of the MIDDLE BOTTOM.

This is where the pumps and 420 monsta radiator will be





Heres a tease pic

You can see in this picture that the cut out is on the left side, it will change in a couple of pictures as i changed my mind and put it on the right



heres the middle bottom piece. the braces i made are OK, but im going to redo them. I will be welding 1x1x1/16 aluminum square tubes accross from one end to the other, that will insure the the structure is more rigid, and that the top does not sag at all and possibly bend the board. You will see what i mean later, but total sag is about 1/16" with the cards put on but without the rear panel put on which will add support still I will make it better with the square tubing.

That is a shot of the side, You can see the 3 holes where it will be bolted to each stacker 832. the 1/8 x 1/2" wide strip you there is to make sure the carriage bolts do not bend the side piece of the stacker 832. just look to the left, you will see the long oval holes, thats where the carriage bolts will be, 1/4" carriage bolts fit perfect you will see in later pics.



Middle bottom piece almost ready to be mounted to the cases.



Heres a look at the top of hte middle I will be taping 8-32 threads into the braces, 1 on each side of each brace, so 6 taps total.



heres a cutout thats the same as the side of the stacker 832. See how the olds like up, the carriage bolt will go into there and be held, and the strip will prevent the piece from bending outwards to the right and causing the bolt to strip and being unable to tighten.

Time to assemble



heres a cutout of the side of the front of the 832 stacker, you can see the carriage bolt fits in there nicely.



heres another angle, u can see the square part fits in snug



the bolt hooked up to the left 832 stacker ready to be bolted to the MIDDLE BOTTOM piece. But first i have to bolt the 90° angle iron on so that i can secure the MIDDLE TOP piece with 8-32 bolts, using snap covers to give it a nice clean look and cover the screws/bolts on the front and top of the case.

6 bolts on the front, 6 bolts on top (3 on each side; LEFT FRONT, RIGHT FRONT, LEFT TOP, RIGHT TOP) 12 total.








you can see i put it together here u can see right through all 3 parts of the case (right stacker, middle, left stacker), haha my school books from previous semesters and some paper along the wall



here are the holes on the middle bottom part of the case. these will bolt together with the carriage bolts. The 90° angle iron will bolt to that as well using the same carriage bolt.



as you can see the angle iron, im using all nylon lock nuts on the carriage bolts so this thing dont come loose.



just a random top view



another random



Ok so i moved all that paper and books off the wall and used it as weight to weigh down the middle top, so that way i can drill the holes so i can tap into the braces. Look at the bottom right of the MIDDLE of the case, you will see a hole just under the tape. I drew a crosshair to mark the spot to drill into the TOP MIDDLE through the braces.



theres the hold i drilled, and markings for the brace



another shot, kinda crappy



theres the dremel with the plunge router attachment drill the holes using a #29 bit, and than i will be taping the braces with an 8-32 tap.



you can see the tap on the bottom right



Close up of taping, the file is used to file the hole from the top because it was all bulged out from drilling, so i filed down so its flat.





you can see the taped hole, and the nuts down below, i have to tighten the last one



NOw i attached the MIDDLE TOP and screwed it in, you can see the screws on the left side of hte middle part of the case. You can also see the window for the monsta 420 radiator.



now some shots with the frame of the case assembled and ready to go. Check out the screws up top. I used snap caps, what they are are plastic washer like pieces that you put the bolt threw and screw through the case, than this black cap goes on top to cover the screw for a nice clean look they can be removed in the future for disassembly.










OK up next is all the stacker parts that make it look like a stacker , TOP, SIDE DOORS, FRONT DOORS, MESH SLOTS, REAR DOOR.

BUT first i have to change the GREEN MESH on my Nvidia Stacker 830 to a black one which is from the use STACKER i bought. I did not use the top of the used stacker as it has a huge scratch, so im simple swapping the green mesh for the black mesh, so both sides match.

OK here comes final assembly, well just about

Swapping GREEN for BLACK mesh for the TOP 832 stacker piece.



6 rivets hold that mesh to the black top piece. simple drill them out and it comes off. the mesh can also be taken out from the silverish holder as well by bending the mesh flaps and taking it out.



heres the black top off the USED stacker 832. Check out the HUGE scratch on the top left. Thats why im swapping them out.



and the swap is complete, its a little dusty and has a lot of finger prints on it. Ill clean it up later



there are the 6 rivets that hold the mesh assembly together.



heres the front power unit, it has 4 usb slots (2 on top, 2 in front) and power and reset, as well as power led, and HD light. Simple stuff.



bottom shot of it.



another shot, i took all the wires out, I will be putting them back in later. The unit on the other stacker has all the wires attached and I will be using that for power and reset of the main system as it will be on the left side which is closest to the hookups on the motherboard.


NEXT UP, FINAL PARTS TO BE PUT ON than youll really see how this thing will start looking

OK HERE WE GO, FINAL PARTS



no reservoir on this one yet....



top view, the setup of the boards watercooling isnt final, i just that for testing the RAM block is missing water cooling RAM gotta love it



looks dirty, need to clean it down with a damp cloth.



the window there will be lights lighting up the monsta design (thats real carbon fiber) and an acrylic window

Speaking of carbon fiber, i have a surprise but ill let you know later



I think im going to attach the castors to each stacker 832 so i can roll it around, its not that hard to move around at the moment but might be 30 lbs heavier its prob about 75 lbs atm.







dirty floor need to clean those metal shavings off there.





The reservoir is too big, that was for REV 3 of the case. Thats a 200mm TUBE, Ill be getting 120mm tubes from Koolance soon, which will put the reservoir height 0.75-1 inch bellow the top of the middle case Ill be putting a RED LED Plug on the top of each reservoir to light up the fluid RED.

Ill be using Double distilled feser one fluid, OR just distilled water with algae protection added (probably petra's). Ill change the fluid every month keep it clean and uncontaminated so it doesnt become conductive due to contaminants.



CHECK OUT THE BLACK CAPS on the LEFT SIDE OF THE MIDDLE PART. Its a cap over the screw






close up of the reservoir. Its being held by Femal to femal fittings that are screwed into a bitspower passthrough. Simple and sturdy. I might add reservoir mount to each reservoir at the top of each.

Ok, so im going to show you some cool things ill be doing to my G15 keyboard.

This is the V2 keyboard with the orange backlighting.

Ill be changing the LEDs to RED, and Ive already painted the Main body red, and I will be putting a carbon fiber vinyl on the middle part of the keyboard thats around the keys, and on the palm rest too its going to look sharp, here are some pics for now, not done it yet, waiting on LEDs (going to be a pain soldering them on to the little boards they 3 x 2mm in dimensions)
basically 1/8 x 1/16 lol


it looks kinda orange, BUT ITS REDDDDDDD, a nice darkesh red, a little lighter than blood red,. maybe inferno red.

or poppy red.



finger prints.



you can start to see the red here.

I basically cleaned it with rubbing alcohol, than primed it, than painted on 2 coats, 1 light, 1 medium. than put on 4 coats of clear yummy

more to come

almost forgot, lol THE REAR of the case

enjoy.

I totally forgot to post pics of the pumps, Ill do that tomorrow, im tired right now



the right door isnt going to be looking like that, i did custom make that door as i tried to cut the stacker trays and messed it all up so i had the piece water jetted and i put it together

each side will have 2 - 120mm fans with modright filters





Thats all for now folks

More updates coming Please leave any comments and make any suggestions.

Here are some more pics

Ek 480 block, with triple link (parallel)





the triple link ill have to plug one of the outlets with a dummy plug that ek sells.



the bottom







Pumps are next

these are 2 - swiftech mcp-655 pumps with speed control.

They have Ek`s X top V2 installed on each of them with bitspower 90° compression fittings.



front



back



sides.


More coming !!!!

Almost forgot

Here is the MIPS Corsair 6 Memory water cooling Block

I had to order this from Germany. Cost me about $100 bucks after exchange rate, customs, duty and taxes

I have to remove the Red heat sink fins on the Dominator memory and install this

Only one system? With a case that size you could have at least 4!

subscribed!
Can't wait to see how this epic watercooling build turns out

vjcsmoke said:

Ok, now it's starting to make sense. You're not going to be using that middle aluminum block thing after all? Instead you're going to stack the two cases and... weld em together.

Click to expand...

The layout goes as follows.

Monsta 420 radiator goes in the middle, the xchanger 360 radiator goes into the right stacker 832 along with a power supply, fans, and koolance TMS hardware unit (for controlling the wc system)

The stacker 832 on the left will be housing a power supply, all my hard drives, dvd drives, and possibly an intel atom mini itx board, which will be my internet surfer or ill use it as a second system controlling the watercooling

The old revision with them stacked on top of each other didnt work out that well, so i changed over to putting a stacker on each side.

I wont be welding them together, i will be removing the middle braces and replacing them with 1x1 aluminum square tubing that will be welded to the MIDDLE BOTTOM piece (the one where the 420 monsta rad is sitting

Hope this answers your questions.



Originally i was going to use 3 gtx 480s, have 3 loops, 3 reservoirs. 1 xchanger 360 in each stacker 832, and the monsta in the middle part and i was going to have 3 reservoirs up front, not two.

loop1 xchanger360 - motherboard and memory
loop2 xchanger36 - cpu
loop3 monsta420 - graphics

but i decided not to due to costs ive put a lot into it, and i think this will be crazy as it is.

vjcsmoke said:

I wasn't even sure what I was looking at, at first... The idea is interesting but you could have accomplished all of that on an open bench casing. I'm not even sure that the 832 casings will be doing anything in that build except serving as decoration for the ends, since it looks like you want your mobo left on the top. Ok, maybe you can put your PSUs inside them? Looking forward to see it completed. Where did you mount the radiators? I see what you meant about that mobo block. It's weird how they didn't catch that. I mean the thing is designed for a 4 way sli board. You'd think they'd plug in video cards to test to see if it would fit.

Click to expand...

I have to get a plate cut by the water jet for the xchagner360 which will be going into the right stacker on the bottom.

the monsta 420 radiator gets mounted in the middle.

power suppies in each stacker 832, hard drives, tms software, and possibly a low powered mini itx board as a surfer or control computer.

The size of the case is 42`` wide x 25`` deep x 21`` high

Id say it weighs 75 lbs, but is fairly easy to slide around.

I will be putting the castors that came with each stacker on, so it will be easy to roll around.

Final weight should prob be 100-125 Lbs.

Thanks for your comments i cant wait til this sucka is done too!!!!

Thanks for the comments guys!!!!

I know i havent posted much lately but ive been busy with school.

My buddy came over with a GTX 480 of his own, and so i ran some TRI SLI numbers

it was run on default settings.

All 3 cards were running at default clocks, and the processor was at 3.79ghz and ram at 1600 cas 8.

I didnt have enough time to really dial it in, but once he left I was able to get my proc loaded into windows at 4.5ghz, and stable at 4.2ghz with Prim95 V26.2 with the Dominator GT (6gb) sticks at 2006mhz 7-8-7-24-74-1T all stable

Maybe Ill run the bench again with two cards and do some more overclocking later.

enjoy

Hey guys, I've been busy with school exams until nov 6

The pics stopped posting as i ran out of bandwidth on photobucket, thats all taken care of now as i made my account PRO (unlimited bandwidth).

Ill be posting pics soon right after my exams

cheers

Dude.. why in gods name would you put something together like this? Its so clunky and completely unnecessary..

I mean more power to you but jesus christ.. your PC setup looks like a metal chest.

Can you explain how the EK triple link works?



I can't quite get my head around how you link up the fittings to get water to all three cards at once. Is there some part/fitting i'm not seeing in that picture?

vjcsmoke said:

Can you explain how the EK triple link works?

I can't quite get my head around how you link up the fittings to get water to all three cards at once. Is there some part/fitting i'm not seeing in that picture?

Click to expand...

i think the 3 holes on the left (bottom in that pic) are connected to each other and connected to one barb, and the 3 on the right (top in that pic) are connected to each other and to a different barb. one barb acts as inlet and the other as outlet, and the only way for water to get from one side to the other is to pass through the gpu blocks. assuming that the 3 gpu blocks are the same and hence each is as restrictive as the others, a third of the flow will go through each gpu block. does that make sense? im not sure if i explained it very well.

You should sell this bad boy to AMD. I can see them using it in an ad about how hard it is to cool Fermi.

vjcsmoke said:

Can you explain how the EK triple link works?

I can't quite get my head around how you link up the fittings to get water to all three cards at once. Is there some part/fitting i'm not seeing in that picture?

Click to expand...

heres a diagram.



There are 5 inlets/outlets total, 2 on each end and 1 on one of the sides.

This setup requires a good amount of flow as all three cards will be sharing the flow from the inlet. The reason why i am using the parallel link instead of serial is because the coolant tempurature going to each card will be the same where as in series the third card connected in the series will be receiving the highest coolant temperature because the coolant must pass through card one, than to card two, than to card three.

Hope this answers your question.

ryken said:

You should sell this bad boy to AMD. I can see them using it in an ad about how hard it is to cool Fermi.

Click to expand...

HAHA

I agree!!!

although word on the Cayman cores are HOT and FAST

should be interesting, hopefully prices go down further and we all benefit

Here is a drawing I made in Paint that illustrates the New Brace System that will hold up the Section where the motherboard sits, that way it does not sag. The Current (soon be to old) brace system uses 1" x 1/8" flat bar bent 90° at each end and than bolted to the middle piece, It works but theres about a 1/16" sag which i dont like at all (mobo will flex too much for my liking).

The New Brace System incorporates 1" x 1/8" flat bar on each side and THREE 1" x 1" x 1/16" wall square tubing going accross, each tube being welded to the 1" x 1" flat bars. The flat bars will be bolted to the middle section and each 1x1 square tube will be either tapped and threaded with two 8-32 threads(one on each side) or I will be putting in two 8-32 threaded Rivets.

The strenght of the Square tubing will be more rigid and prevent the sag when the weight of the Motherboard, cards etc. are placed on top.

If you have any questions, feel free to ask.

Thanks for the replies guys.

Awesome work, but with all of that real estate, I can't understand why you would essentially be building a workbench and just sticking the motherboard on top.

This case seems like workbench now, but it will essentially be a display case once the details are completed

Stay tuned

cheers

Ok guys..

I just ordered some parts from performance-pcs.com.

Here is the short list:

1 x Connectx™ ATX 8-pin Male connector housing, Black (ACR-CB1233)
1 x Connectx™ ATX 8-pin Female connector housing, Black (ACR-CB0618)
4 x Bitspower BP-MBWP-C43 G1/4" Fitting Spacer - Mini - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C43)
2 x *** NEW *** Koolance Reservoir Body, 120mm Length, 236ml (TNK-BD120)
1 x *** NEW *** EK-FC Link BLANK Parallel (EK-FC-LINK-BLANK-PAR)
1 x *** NEW *** Koolance Reservoir Top with Fill Port (COV-TKTOP)
1 x *** NEW *** Koolance Reservoir Nozzle Base [no nozzles] (TNK-COVBTM)
4 x Bitspower Case Top Water Fill/ Through Hole Fitting Set - Matte Black Finish (BP-MBWP-C04)
2 x IandH Silver KillCoils - Antimicrobial .999 Fine Silver Tubing / Reservoir Strip (IANDH-KILLCOIL)

This should allow me to hook up the two loops and finalize the watercooling part of the project.

I also ordered something called 3M Di-Noc Carbon Fiber Vinyl from eBay. 2'x4' sheet black for $50 USD + 11 USD Shipping to Canada.


stay tuned, HOpefully i get the stuff in from PPCs by friday so I have the weekend to install.









here is the 3M Di-Noc Carbon Fiber Vinyl I will be using on the build.

its textured and reflects light just like real carbon fiber. There are other vinyls out there that reflect more light and are glossier but its not what i wanted.

It should arrive in the next 2-3 days, Ill post pics of when it comes in