View Full Version : PSU Dillema on San Diego 4000+
Volume
10-02-2005, 03:37 AM
Alright, so I'm planning on getting a system with AMD64 4000+, 2GB RAM, and a high-end video card. not sure about the mobo yet.
EDIT: Fixed the link sorry: http://www.newegg.com/product/product.asp?item=N82E16817148025
I'm thinking of that but I remember someone saying "don't go with aspire."
Any other reccomendations?
This system is to have great overclock potential.
ramuman
10-02-2005, 04:21 AM
You linked the San Diego not the PSU - and if you're getting a 4000+ San Diego, please don't skimp on the PSU - get a 3700+ instead if you're gonna do that.
aZn_plyR
10-02-2005, 04:56 AM
anyways, don't go with aspire.
_Korruption_
10-02-2005, 09:17 AM
You linked the San Diego not the PSU - and if you're getting a 4000+ San Diego, please don't skimp on the PSU - get a 3700+ instead if you're gonna do that.
Even if he does get a 3700+ instead, that's still not an excuse to skimp on the PSU.
davidhammock200
10-02-2005, 10:00 AM
(1) OCZ PowerStream 520W: $105/$85: http://www.monarchcomputer.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=100117&AFFIL=pg&NR=1
(2) Enermax 535W: $83: http://www.ewiz.com/detail.php?p=PS-E565PVE&c=fr&pid=379ef4cb897a8532a2da67c2f9725fe8d25d73ac49b3b71576c6f678 76470201
(3) Fortron/Sparkle 550W EPS: From $79: search
(4) Sunbeamtech 550W: $79: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16817709004
Volume
10-02-2005, 01:34 PM
link updated
Volume
10-02-2005, 01:38 PM
Is Active PFC important? And do I want/need dual 12v?
Soymilk
10-02-2005, 01:47 PM
im going to second dumping the 4000+ and getting a 3700+ san diego instead, since you're going to oc (im assuming that cuz of the last line of ur original post) its the same core, so oc it and it'll be same performance. theres no guarantee on a 4000+ being able to oc farther than a 3700+, i think they're about the same. so save some money, and use that on ur psu, cuz psu = important. an addition to the previous guy's list that you may want to look at, take a look at the seasonic s12, they're a little pricier (~$120 for 500W? not too sure) but they're really good.
active pfc isn't really needed, i'm not sure how much real-world effect it has, but i think it has better efficiency than non-active pfc? also, dual rails are good, but not necessary. unless you're going to go SLI - for that, it would be better to have one big rail than dual rails. dual rails splits the stress on each one, so there is less likely to be a power failure. i think its split as one rail for mobo, one rail for everything else. read the sticky on psu's, one of em has all this info.
jonnyGURU
10-02-2005, 02:23 PM
I know that PSU. It's not bad, but....
One: It's NOT a 600W. It's 600W peak. It's more like a 500W by any other name.
Two: $93 is kind of steep.
I'm not sure I'd feel too comfortable running SLI with it either. Can't say for sure as I haven't load tested that particular model. I know you never said you were going to run a pair of high-end video cards, but it doesn't hurt to future-proof, right?
What's your priority? Why did you single out that power supply? Blue cables? Blue lights? Help me better understand you. :D
davidhammock200
10-02-2005, 02:32 PM
Alright, so I'm planning on getting a system with AMD64 4000+, 2GB RAM, and a high-end video card. not sure about the mobo yet.
EDIT: Fixed the link sorry: http://www.newegg.com/product/product.asp?item=N82E16817148025
I'm thinking of that but I remember someone saying "don't go with aspire."
Any other reccomendations?
This system is to have great overclock potential.NO!, ELL NO!, F~NO! See my previous post! :rolleyes:
jonnyGURU
10-02-2005, 02:53 PM
NO!, ELL NO!, F~NO! See my previous post! :rolleyes:
Judging by your reaction one would think that your grandmother had an eye taken out by one of these blowing up.
EDIT: You know.. I was willing to give this power supply the benefit of the doubt, but then I noticed the label and the LACK of combined wattage ratings. If they can't publish combined wattage ratings... Do they have something to hide? Assuming 12V1 can do 18A and 12V2 can do 20A... Does that do me any good if the combined 12V wattage is only 288W? ;)
aZn_plyR
10-02-2005, 03:20 PM
well if he really wants it for the looks... so be it.. it's pribably not as good as other brand names but I am guessing it won't blow up his computer :P
davidhammock200
10-02-2005, 03:53 PM
well if he really wants it for the looks... so be it.. it's pribably not as good as other brand names but I am guessing it won't blow up his computer :PBad guess, these Youngyears have exactly that habit! :eek:
aZn_plyR
10-02-2005, 04:21 PM
O well but if he really wants it might as well it's his money :P haha
but volume hasn't responded to any suggestion you guys gave him.. but if he knows what's best, he would stay away but O well :P
jonnyGURU
10-02-2005, 04:29 PM
Bad guess, these Youngyears have exactly that habit! :eek:
Two things:
1. You know it's a Youngyear?
and
2. Do tell me why you have the opinion that Youngyears take out computers if and when they fail?
You seem to talk a lot of smack about them, but I've seen far less catrastrophic failures with PSU's made by Youngyear than I have a few of the other "more reputable" brands that you seem to pimp a lot that I know for a fact "blew up and took out the entire PC" on a few occasions.
I'm not saying that Youngyear is better than a lot of the other brands out there, but I don't recall them "blowing up and taking out the entire PC" other than the one or two forums posts that keep getting hashed back up over and over and over again.
I just don't get it. You seem to breed a lot of hate about products you don't have any personal experience with and I'm just wondering where it comes from.
_Korruption_
10-02-2005, 05:11 PM
Sure it might not be the YoungYear he's shooting down, but for the money, I would probably go with something else. Perhaps the XClio 550W (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16817189001), or the OCZ Powerstream 520, or the Enermax 535W All-in-One (all linked above).
jonnyGURU
10-02-2005, 05:14 PM
Oh, no doubt. The $93 price tag knocked me off my pegs. That's just stupid money for such a "mediocre" power supply.
For that kind of flow, I'd get a Xclio or FSP 550W too.
That's why I asked what it was about that PSU that had him attracted to it. Because, if you're going to expect that kind of bling and want good, dependable power... you're going to have to up the funds a little. ;)
Soymilk
10-02-2005, 07:13 PM
if it was for the bling, modstreams would b a viable alternative, cuz they have lights + UV reactive cables. and its a good psu, too.
jonnyGURU
10-02-2005, 07:28 PM
if it was for the bling, modstreams would b a viable alternative, cuz they have lights + UV reactive cables. and its a good psu, too.
Not that much juice. Even the 520W only has 28A on the 12V rail... which is a good thing because if you try to get more than that out of a Topower manufactured unit your voltages bounce around like a number ball in a Lotto machine. :rolleyes:
davidhammock200
10-02-2005, 08:56 PM
Two things:
1. You know it's a Youngyear?
and
2. Do tell me why you have the opinion that Youngyears take out computers if and when they fail?
You seem to talk a lot of smack about them, but I've seen far less catrastrophic failures with PSU's made by Youngyear than I have a few of the other "more reputable" brands that you seem to pimp a lot that I know for a fact "blew up and took out the entire PC" on a few occasions.
I'm not saying that Youngyear is better than a lot of the other brands out there, but I don't recall them "blowing up and taking out the entire PC" other than the one or two forums posts that keep getting hashed back up over and over and over again.
I just don't get it. You seem to breed a lot of hate about products you don't have any personal experience with and I'm just wondering where it comes from.Jonny,
If you would like, I'll be happy to forward to you the PM's, emails & post I get involving damage to mobo &/or video
that these Aspire's sometimes cause when they fail.
Dave ;)
jonnyGURU
10-02-2005, 09:26 PM
Please do, Dave. Along with the UL number from the side of the PSU that shows that it's made by Youngyear. :D
Now mind you... I can approach this with an open mind. I've never had an Aspire in my hands... EVER. When someone says Youngyear, I immediately think of the old X-Connect and the single 12V rail MGE power supplies which aren't so bad. But just like how FSP and Topower are capable of multiple levels of quality/capability... certainly so is Youngyear. And quite frankly, even then I certainly have no allegiance to Youngyear outside of the two I have that have given me no problems. I was actually quite pleased to see Ultra switch over to all Wintech. Kind of explains why they suddenly switched to a lifetime warranty where when they were using Youngyear they only provided one year! They must have had some issues with Youngyear as well.
Thanks!
davidhammock200
10-02-2005, 09:34 PM
Please do, Dave. Along with the UL number from the side of the PSU that shows that it's made by Youngyear and not ATNG.
Thanks!Have you ever seen an Aspire made by anyone other than Youngyear?
Volume
10-02-2005, 09:36 PM
Thanks for all these replies.. wow. You guys have been a great help. So how's this one look for an overclock-friendly PSU? I'm also gonna dump the 4000+ idea and go with a 3700+ as suggested.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16817104152
And just to make sure... this is the CPU you guys have in mind right? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?item=N82E16819103539
jonnyGURU
10-02-2005, 09:37 PM
Have you ever seen an Aspire made by anyone other than Youngyear?
I could've sworn I've run a UL off of one and say ATNG or Real Power. I know for a fact the Aspire power supplies that come bundled with their crappy cases is made by Real Power.
jonnyGURU
10-02-2005, 09:38 PM
Thanks for all these replies.. wow. You guys have been a great help. So how's this one look for an overclock-friendly PSU? I'm also gonna dump the 4000+ idea and go with a 3700+ as suggested.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16817104152
DON'T BUY IT YET!!!
Dave... Hit him with the link for that one that's on sale!!!!
Volume
10-02-2005, 09:40 PM
DON'T BUY IT YET!!!
Dave... Hit him with the link for that one that's on sale!!!!
Don't worry! I'll be waiting at least 2 more weeks before buying any of this stuff.
Is this what you were talking about? $100 + $20 rebate. Sounds good to me! http://www.monarchcomputer.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=M&Product_Code=100117&Category_Code=ps-500
davidhammock200
10-02-2005, 09:42 PM
DON'T BUY IT YET!!!
Dave... Hit him with the link for that one that's on sale!!!! http://www.monarchcomputer.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=100117&AFFIL=pg&NR=1 :D
Soymilk
10-02-2005, 09:43 PM
good thinking, its always good to have time for second opinions before u buy, and research on ur purchase so you can make a smart buy :)
...i've been looking for dam near 4 months now. !@#$ing ati and their dam x1800 needs to come out already.
Volume
10-02-2005, 09:47 PM
To be honest with you guys I will NOT know what the heck to do with those three adjustment knobs on the back of that PSU.
jonnyGURU
10-02-2005, 10:34 PM
Essentially: RTFM. ;)
AT IDLE adjust them so they're green. That means the voltage is dead on. You want to do it at idle because if you do it at load the voltages will be to high at idle and high voltages are harder on components than low voltages.
Oklahoma Wolf
10-03-2005, 12:28 AM
I know for a fact the Aspire power supplies that come bundled with their crappy cases is made by Real Power.
Aren't Turbolink and Aspire somehow related? Seems to me they are, but I'm too tired at the moment to remember exactly how. I do know I've seen Real Power used in Turbolink 420w units. I'll take any Youngyear over one of those though - I don't care for Youngyear, but they're not nearly the worst out there IMO.
_Korruption_
10-03-2005, 07:33 AM
Essentially: RTFM. ;)
AT IDLE adjust them so they're green. That means the voltage is dead on. You want to do it at idle because if you do it at load the voltages will be to high at idle and high voltages are harder on components than low voltages.
I'd use a multimeter instead of looking to see if a little LED is green or not. The green range is 5%... which is quite a lot.
davidhammock200
10-03-2005, 07:36 AM
I'd use a multimeter instead of looking to see if a little LED is green or not. The green range is 5%... which is quite a lot.Yes, use a DVM/DMM when adjusting rails. ;)
Volume
10-03-2005, 03:09 PM
Yes, use a DVM/DMM when adjusting rails. ;)
Sounds good, I'll get one.
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