PDA

View Full Version : Installing Isolated Ground plugs


Marklar
06-07-2004, 10:35 PM
How To Install Isolated Ground plugs

Disclaimer:
THIS IS VERY DANGEROUS AND DOING THIS YOU ARE RISKING SERIOUS INJURY
OR DEATH DO AT YOUR OWN RISK I AM NOT REPSONSABLE IF YOU GET HURT
OR BURN YOUR HOUSE DOWN!!!!!

I can’t say it enough electricity is no toy and can do many strange things if you do this be very careful, When your working with your house wiring be sure to turn the power OFF don’t ask someone to do it for you go do it yourself and do yourself a favor and buy a nice fluke tester it will help keep you from getting hurt. If you live with parents ask them to help you with this, a kid has no business messing with the wiring of their house. If you don’t do this right it can cause an electrical fire as with any other electrical work, I will go over every thing you need to know to do this please do not skip any part of this article. All parts you need can be bought at home depot or most hardware stores.

You should have an expert do this for you, you can call most companies out and they will give you a free estimate (don’t ask for a free estimate ask how much does an estimate cost) but for you DIY's out there I'll show you how its done and don’t whine to me if you screw this up I told you not to do it!!

When installing isolated grounds it is easy to cause more problems lets say you have a computer on an isolated ground circuit and it plugs into a network hub and the hub is on that same isolated circuit. If you have another computer that is plugged into a regular NON isolated plug and that computer is plugged into that hub the ground wire that runs in the network cable carries the dirty ground circuit to your isolated circuit and defeats the purpose of having an isolated ground. This goes with printers, scanners, monitors, joysticks, UPS ECT. Also there is 1 rule about electricity that you see all the time in lightning storms, electricity always follows the path of least resistance so if what ever you have plugged into the non isolated circuit shorts out the electricity will flow through the ground and it can use the ground in the network cable and cause your cable to melt or burn and can cause a fire.

What an isolated ground does is remove your computer equipment or what ever you have plugged in to that plug from the ground loop in your house. All the grounds in your house are tied together in your breaker box. Noise from fans, A/C, dryer, or anything that has a motor can cause noise on the grounding conductor. Ballasts low voltage lighting an anything that uses a transformer can have an effect also. So by doing this the only noise on the ground will be from your equipment, make sure any printers, cable modems, monitors, network hubs, ect ect are plugged into the isolated circuit.



Step 1 Wiring type

First you need to see what kind of wiring your house has, houses built from around the 50's to current use romex wiring most of you know what this is, romex is a wire that contains 1 black wire (hot) 1 white wire (neutral) and 1 ground bare copper all these are wrapped in a usually white insulation. Most of your houses will have this type of wiring. There is also another type of romex used before the 50's that’s is cloth wrapped and usually this wire has no grounding conductor and then there’s knob and tube which is very old and if you have this in your house please call an electrician to rewire your house. Also mostly found on the west and east coast is bx this is like romex but instead of having plastic insulation the wires are wrapped in metal flex some of these have grounds and some don't. You can take the cover off your breaker box and determine what kind of wiring you have and if you have grounds.

Step 2 Grounded service

There are 2 types of grounds cold water ground and earth ground all new houses require both, some older houses only have a cold water ground and some don’t have any ground. To check if you have a ground you need to take the front cover off your breaker box and look on the ground and neutral bars these will look like a long metal bar with a lot of screws in it, usually main ground wires will be a solid copper wire almost the size of a pencil. One wire will go to the cold water side of the plumbing sometimes an outside water faucet or the cold pipe on the water heater. The other ground goes to a ground rod this is an 8 foot long copper rod driven straight into the ground usually right below the panel or meter on the outside of the house. If you do not have a ground rod you need to drive a new ground rod under your panel or you will not be able to have an isolated ground.

Step 3 Finding the plug circuit

This is where a tester comes in handy and a helper to flip breakers for you. Find the plug or plugs you want to install an isolated ground on put your tester leads in the 2 slots next to each other and start flipping breakers till that plug goes off (mark the breaker the plug is on). After it’s off remove the plug from the wall it may look like Figure 1 below or it might only have 1 romex coming in. If your wires are cloth covered you may not be able to tell what wire is white and what is black. As you can see the slots on the front are different sizes the short slot is the black (hot) side and the long slot is the white (neutral) side if you cant tell what color they are get some white and black electrical tape and wrap tape around them before you remove the wire from the plug so you know where they go when you hook them up to the new plug. Now take the wires off the plug usually you just loosen the screws on the side but newer houses have quick connects and the wire is stabbed into the back of the plug just use a pair of side cutters to cut the plug off. If you have a metal box the grounds from the romex needs to be connected to the box most should be like this already if you have a plastic box just make sure the ground wires are tied together and put a wire cap on them.

Step 4 Running an isolated ground

You will need a roll of #12 wire you can get a spool in 50', 100', 250', and 500’ at your local hardware store you want solid wire not stranded. You want to run this wire from the plug you want to isolate to the ground rod you found or drove in step 2. This is the hard part and why I hate my job so much, there are many ways you can do this if your plug is in an interior wall of your house you can go into the attic find where the wire for the plug goes down and push it down there or drill a new hole if there is no room. If you have someone helping you have them at the plug trying to fish the wire through the box with a piece of wire with a hook on the end of it. If you have a crawl space under your house you can run it down there. If the plug is on an exterior wall you might have to run a piece of pipe or just staple the wire to the outside of the wall and drill a hole through the wall into the back of the box. Be very careful doing this its easy to fall through the sheetrock if you miss a step in the attic. After you get the ground wire in the box you need to run the other end to the ground rod BEFORE DISCONNECTING THE LUG ON THE GROUND ROD TURN OFF ALL THE BREAKERS INCLUDING THE MAIN BREAKER because if you have something in your house shorting out or a broken neutral somewhere when you take the lug off the main grounding electrode conductor will shock you this is why ground rods are 8 feet long so people don’t try to steal them and kill their self in the process. When you get the wire to the ground rod clamp it on as shown in figure 2.

Step 5 Hooking up the plug

You will need an isolated ground plug it is an orange plug and has a green triangle on the front of it they look a lot like a regular plug but the difference is an IG plugs yoke is not connected to the ground the yoke is the metal part of the plug on the top and bottom where the screws go to hold it into the box. The ground wire in the romex in your house wiring will not hook up to this plug Only the isolated ground you ran will hook up to the green screw the black wires hook to the gold screws and the white wires hook to the silver screws as in Figure 3 Don’t hook it up backwards reverse polarity is bad ju ju and make sure the screws are tight loose connections are bad ju ju to loose electrical connections cause more house fires than anything else. After you got it hooked back up it’s not a bad idea to wrap tape around the plug to keep the screws from hitting the sides of the box and shorting out. Now reinstall the plug put the cover back on and turn the power on put your tester in the plug make sure its working also put 1 lead in the short slot and put 1 lead in the round ground hole if its says you have 120 volts then your all set.

Final note

Remember what I said about the network, printer and any other cables I don’t want to hear about any of you on the news or the [H] front page that your house burned down if you don’t think you can do this please call a professional they will do it right for you and in most cases its not real expensive.

Figure 1
http://www.hommie.net/forum/plug.jpg


Figure 2
http://www.hommie.net/forum/grod.jpg


Figure 3
http://www.hommie.net/forum/igplug.jpg

LadyJaqie
06-18-2004, 06:43 PM
do yourself a favor and buy a nice fluke tester
most dont know this but radio shack does not manufacture most of the electronics they sell, they used to but stopped. There is a good tester there for sale for $90, and it looks like it may be a fluke rebranded.
and then there’s knob and tube which is very old and if you have this in your house please call an electrician to rewire your house.
I cant stress this enough either, some people tell me they cannot afford to when I tell them to... then I say, "can you afford to have your house burnt down? running with point-tube wiring is playing russian roulette with electrical fires."
but newer houses have quick connects and the wire is stabbed into the back of the plug just use a pair of side cutters to cut the plug off.
actually, there is a slot next to them that allows you to insert a small straight screwdriver and pull out the wire effortlessly without leaving cut off piece of copper rattling inside the plug or making you have to re-strip the now shorter wire.

other then these few details this is an incredibly good guide, written by an obvious expert in the field (like me) :)

edit-- about putting the wire onto the plug. its a good idea to strip 3/4" of insulation off the wire, no more, then put the end of the wire into the end of a needlenose pliers and bend it CLOCKWISE to form a C, then put that C so it runs CLOCKWISE underneath the screw and tighten the screw nice and snug.

edit-- you also didnt cover houses built with solid metal wire tubing, that is required here in chicago, that 'armored cable' as I like to call it isnt even up to the standards. if you run wires outside of the tubing here you are not up to code.

edit-- (yes another one) you should always have 6 inches of wire inside the box, to play with. how to measure what 6 inches REALLY is (I get all sorts of nasty jokes when I tell men about this and I am SO tired of them) is to take your thumb and index finger and stretch them as far apart as you comfortably can. that is six inches more or less.

Slawterr
06-19-2004, 06:54 AM
Great guide. But correct me if I'm wrong, but wouldn't the 2nd ground be worthless even if it is isolated since the first ground is still on the rest of the house with everything else?

LadyJaqie
06-19-2004, 11:49 PM
--- no.

oboyco
07-10-2005, 10:07 PM
Hi Marklar and Ladyjaqie

Just wanted to point out a couple of things here, ground rods are not 8' long to prevent theft, although it's a powerful deterent for the intent of the safety aspect. A grounding conductor must run with the circuit conductors and terminate at the same point as the circuit conductors.

Two ground rods are not permitted because of the potential difference between the two which may occur on a major surge such as lightning strike. The waterpipe style ground clamp is not approved for use on ground rod. Al this is per NEC

As I said before I haven't wired an isolated ground circuit in probably 20 years. Just not used anymore for computers. Maybe the equipment is different, or the effectiveness is disputed, and as has been pointed out can cause more problems than it solved.

Couple of interesting links, and more can be found on google.

here (http://www.powerquality.com/mag/power_preventing_isolated_ground/)

another (http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=howTo&p=Improve/IsolatGnd.html&rn=Right
NavFiles/rightNavHowTo)



one more (http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=81263&page=1)

setscrew
07-10-2005, 10:58 PM
As a Master Electrician with near twenty years experience I must say that while the intent of the OP may be well founded, the manner in which it is executed should not be attempted by those not well versed in the National Electrical Code and a fair amount of electrical theory.

Any isolated grounds that are run within a building, MUST terminate to the main grounding electrode system. If you were to run a cable assembly (we will say romex for the typical dwelling unit) to an isolated ground location, said cable assembly would have to contain four copper conducors. Colored conducter one would be connected to the overcurrent device. Colored conductor two would be reidentified at all accessable locations with green tape and carried back to the main grounding electrode system. This relabled conductor will terminate onto the isolated ground receptacle ground lug. The white conductor is the grounded conductor (neutral). The bare copper conductor (equipment ground) is connected to any metallic enclosures, ground bus, and the end if unused, is capped with a wire nut.

I agree with oboyco, I have not run an isolated ground system in any locations other than hospitals and similar health care facilities since the early nineties. The average computer system does not require it.

If you are concerned about your electrical system, get a licensed, insured and bonded electrician your area please. Electricity may be benign, but it should be treated with respect for its potential.

mike_j_johnson
08-09-2005, 12:11 AM
I have been thinking of getting an electrician to install a dedicated/isolated circuit in my computer room before I purchase my new machine in March of next year.

Anyone know the average cost?

It seems like there are too schools of thought. Some people tend to think it is not worth it, and others think it is the foundation of a good audio/video system.

HighTest
08-09-2005, 01:58 PM
As a Master Electrician with near twenty years experience I must say that while the intent of the OP may be well founded, the manner in which it is executed should not be attempted by those not well versed in the National Electrical Code and a fair amount of electrical theory.

If you are concerned about your electrical system, get a licensed, insured and bonded electrician your area please. Electricity may be benign, but it should be treated with respect for its potential.

Thanks SetScrew, I was just getting ready to post the same thing. The only thing I would add is that not only should one adhere to the National Electronics Code, but municipalities may have additional restrictions and requirements above and beyond the NEC. When wiring for "non-standard" work, it's always best to check with your local offices to ensure no violations of the local and National standards (if you intend to ever sell, if it's not your home then this should even be an issue). These codes are not to try and make your life difficult, but to try and ensure a standard of safety that won't turn your residence into an accident waiting to happen. If your exisiting ground is poor, you can contact a local professional that will be able to rectify the problem for you.

If you are having power issues that are encouraging you too look into an issolated ground because your computer is giving you problems, I suspect you have more than just a ground issue. Additional circuits to the pannel make since, after all if you needed to work on the power in one room it's nice to not have to shut down the entire house, nor are you as likely to exceed the amp rating of that particular breaker. Grounds at different potentials are just problems waiting to occur.

HighTest
08-09-2005, 02:04 PM
I have been thinking of getting an electrician to install a dedicated/isolated circuit in my computer room before I purchase my new machine in March of next year.

Anyone know the average cost?

It seems like there are too schools of thought. Some people tend to think it is not worth it, and others think it is the foundation of a good audio/video system.

A "dedicated" circuit makes since, but again the ground to that circuit would be best "bonded" to the existing ground in the panel and not run to a new rod. As to your "average cost", this varies from local to local. Request bids from at least three Electricians to get a good idea. Of course beyond the cost of materials, any work I need is free :D (to me that is).

oboyco
08-09-2005, 07:01 PM
Mike, that's kind of a tough question, depending on how far the outlet is from the panel, and the difficulty of getting a circuit there. Just a wild ass general guess, depending on where you are, but I would say maybe 4 to 8 hours of labor by the time it's said and done. $300 to $500 in labor, (maybe more, maybe less) and $30 to $60 in materials.

In my opinion, it is definatley not worth the expense. If your house is fairly new, the existing wiring should be more than adequate to handle your load, assuming you don't have that existing circuit loaded to the gills. Most bedroom, and general purpose circuits usually don't have any more than 8 outlets or lights on a 15 amp circuit, or 10 on a 20 amp circuit. I seriously doubt that your pc a/v system would draw more than 5 or 6 amps. 3 to 4 is more like it, depending on the video equipment being used.

I would just go ahead and use the existing. If, and a big if, you should have problems with the breaker overheating or tripping, then that would be the time to bring in a 20 amp dedicated circuit, or diversify your other loads onto another circuit. A dedidcated circuit will not improve the quality of "power" whatsoever, it would only prevent an already overloaded circuit from tripping the existing breaker.

mike_j_johnson
08-09-2005, 08:55 PM
okay..thanks for the responses. I am just interested any time I can improve the quality of my AV gear. "Clean Power" seems to be a big deal in the AV world. I could easily spend $4000 on a power conditioner and voltage stabilizer if I was really hardcore. I just figured getting a dedicated ground and/or circuit would be a good starting point. Sounds like you electricians think its a waste and possibly dangerous. =/

mike_j_johnson
03-07-2006, 06:41 PM
I am back to thinking about a "Dedicated Circuit" for my computer room. I am just now starting to order parts for my new machine.

I have noticed that any time our heater comes on (oil furnance - 1952 home), the lights all dim for a split second in the computer room. I think this also happens in the Summer when our window air conditioner is running. Maybe even possibly the clothes dryer or the wife's hair dryer.

I have tried to inspect the current wiring and it looks like some is a black cloth type romex and the other is either a yellowish or white romex. The prior owner remodeled our basement and it appears he just tapped into all the existing wiring instead of adding more circuits to the panel. In fact, I may need a new modern panel.

My question is, will getting a dedicated circuit to the computer (possibly 20 amp since this will be a SLI rig) help eliminate these brownouts?

polemos4u
09-24-2006, 12:31 PM
Hi,

I live in an older home some of which is wired with the older 2 wire romex. To solve my power issues for our computer room I ran a seperate circuit with 12/3 wire. I used the current ground strip in my service panel and a 20A breaker.

No more tingling when we touch the bare metal on the power supplies or other issues we had.

I was quoted $300 to have in professionaly done. Bought a book and did it myself for $40. I do own a mulimeter and a ciruit tester however I wouldnt attempt to do it myself otherwise.

BillParrish
09-24-2006, 01:41 PM
I would just buy a good power conditioner unless my wiring was of the old style that needed to be updated anyway.

davidhammock200
09-24-2006, 06:52 PM
As a Master Electrician with near twenty years experience I must say that while the intent of the OP may be well founded, the manner in which it is executed should not be attempted by those not well versed in the National Electrical Code and a fair amount of electrical theory.

Any isolated grounds that are run within a building, MUST terminate to the main grounding electrode system. If you were to run a cable assembly (we will say romex for the typical dwelling unit) to an isolated ground location, said cable assembly would have to contain four copper conducors. Colored conducter one would be connected to the overcurrent device. Colored conductor two would be reidentified at all accessable locations with green tape and carried back to the main grounding electrode system. This relabled conductor will terminate onto the isolated ground receptacle ground lug. The white conductor is the grounded conductor (neutral). The bare copper conductor (equipment ground) is connected to any metallic enclosures, ground bus, and the end if unused, is capped with a wire nut.

I agree with oboyco, I have not run an isolated ground system in any locations other than hospitals and similar health care facilities since the early nineties. The average computer system does not require it.

If you are concerned about your electrical system, get a licensed, insured and bonded electrician your area please. Electricity may be benign, but it should be treated with respect for its potential.I agree 100%!

DO NOT TRY THIS! EXTREME DANGER!